Hi all, long time no speak but at 1038 hours logged we decided to get stock in and full service overhaul of our dozer. Having just cleaned our fire trails around the place here and shedded for a year before that, it has been time to solve a few minor and some larger problems where glands were leaking oil and dirt getting in, not cooling well, oil pressure meter problem, lighting kit upgrade, trans oil, hydraulic oil, leaking transmission control valve, faulty modulation filter (A50673), plus we now know the fluids were cheaper in January so that actually worked in our favour, for once. Started by removing the tree pusher, this is a slip on, held by two 5/8 HT bolts through captive blocks in the rear pin of the angle cylinder piston shaft. Swap off takes about 20 minutes for single handed. Tree pusher mounts here for correct track geometry and traction, this pin remains in place. First off our new 44 of Mobil Delvac 30 to the engine, which wasn't really due but 'all fluids is all fluids.' Donaldson filters were dearer, but CASE wanted six per retail sale? Huh?
Nice. With a 5.9 have options on filters parts store or dealer makes it easy. Laying under a machine down under I would want lite flare check every opening yes I'm a mary I had non venomous snakes pop out of battery box or sitting on starter reach up for a filter wake him up have him swinging in my face for sec worst we have are venom rattlesnakes nice guys hit belly pan it rattles try again next week
Oh, surprise there, we have the "Eastern Brown" which is highly venomous and cranky with it. Did bump into a rats nest later on, so that would be a 'drawcard' to reptiles. Reliable Aftermarket, seal kits were excellent and prompt to Australia. Lift cylinder on the way down and about to catch that oil ! releasing the cap bolt in a tilt cylinder. Tilt cylinder piston and shaft on the way back in.
I like the tooling used on the cylinders, especially the yellow gland nut wrench.
Next, Hydraulic oil swap out, replace all filters, inspect tank and clean suction filter, new oil, MobilFluid 428 (semi clear), drain all four cylinders not rebuilt and already empty, (angle and ripper). Tank access cover. Old / new filter Suction was clean and nothing on a magnet passed through the drained oil. Next step is the transmission oil, rear belly plate was a mess.
Very kind thank you, in mentioning. They are just turned up from scrap in the workshop and simplify working with these cylinders, also it just grips the piston shaft lightly to keep everything square when adding a bit of 'cheater' to get that gland moving!
Yes, being square off like that must make a big difference. Very nice, will try to mentally store that design
Yes, the commercial "?fork style gland wrench?" have two spigots usually and can damage the sockets in the gland face, if distorted when they 'bend out' under load. To build the four spigot tool: 1. I used custom made '30MM long centre pops' from 'a rat tail file' in each of the four sockets in the gland face, these must be a close fit. 2. Fit the split clamp and fasten it over a piston shaft. 3. Face the 'centre pops' in the gland on the split clamp and transfer the centre of each with a hammer tap opposite each. 4. Drill out each, slightly oversize, say 8.5MM. All this is required, because I haven't a rotary table or dividing head, which now that I look would be a good investment on current pricing, (more versatility for the Huller vertical mill). I just use disposable 8MM bolts as drive spigots, machined down to be a snug fit into the clean sockets in the gland face. Next (if concerned, fit a brass shim around the cleaned piston shaft), clamp the two side bolts firmly and lever. HeavyEquipmentForums
Nice work Au. Similar experience The half moon adjustable wrenchs are junk basically load 1 pin put a pipe on it jumps out damage glad hole & user not ready
Paint/dirt stop the pin fully seating I use low speed easy drill & gun bore copper brushes get a pistol kit $8 with brushes from 5mm to 12mm ie .22-45cal with brass extension rods.
Yes, a drill of the right size does the trick and the more spigots that are in firm contact, the less risk of damage.
Finishing the hydraulic oil change and onto the transmission oil. Hydraulic breather, was very clean and still 'doing its job'. Purging the oil from the angle circuit into a drain tray under the five feed lines from the radiator area. The belly plates are modest but I have moved to keeping them on a floor jack these days, the air line, an N95 respirator (soil here is full of Silicon > bad ), hat / cap, ear plugs and blast everything I can clean. Just visible is the suction filter diecast body which was clean (see above post). Propeller shaft is flagged for new universal joints (#A45595 / #84355363) in the next 250 hours. Transmission drain residue, some sealant specks, few metal flakes and clutch material, oil was a good colour and I thought fair outcome for 1,038 hours work time.
After 4 cylinder seal kits, hyd, trans, time to fix another long standing problem, the pressure gauge and other random things, helping out a friend. These are #26-140 bolt and #D30196 (special hardened washer), 1" UNC, three stumps at the front I removed initially because they break (always the upper set of 3 / side, under abuse) where the chassis meets the front of the final drive, I happened to dig them out with some new spares, to show a local whom has bought an 1150B and I suggested these be checked (for presence), then replaced, while you can. Hydraulic spool housing, overdue for clean and grease, also the breather is in here, upper left. Fuel filters, I added a primary-primary Donaldson sediment on the side curtain after a 'water event' years ago. This is our VDO transmission gauge and finally I went and checked the modulator valve filter (#A50763) which was faulty too.
Counter drill bits left twice had luck taking snap bolts out. Nice work Au
A drill guide tool, the modulator screen replacement wasn't a genuine CASE (at $161 USD but $19.30 USD delivered for two from Dayton > Oz), the Transmission pressure gauge. This is a tool to remove the stumps of the #26-140 bolt and #D30196 (special hardened washer), 1" UNC, in a post above. On the tip is a 3/8" drill with a 1" sleeve over it to guide the drill in the chassis so it sits in the softer / centre of the HT bolt. The spring keeps the sleeve in place as during the process as swarf is coming down the flutes. Powered on the left by a 1/2" hand held drill in the chassis box access port, last used 20 years ago! To fix the VDO pressure gauge, I prized open the brass outer lense seal from the back, glued the pointer back on and carefully pressed it closed and sealed. The CASE (#A50763) modulation filter is also a GM part, delivered from the U.S. as depicted for a fraction. This is the port in the control valve block under the seat and everything has to be as clean as possible to access this socket where the #A50763 filter sits.
Tidying a battery cable, oil level in the hydraulic tank and final drive oil replacement. This red lead had been resting on the Low High spool and had a recess in the outer insulation of the +24 Volt battery cable, needless to say that a short here would halt the machine and possible a fire, should have been tied / tidied years ago. Just after filling the Hydraulic tank and the aeration of the oil is obvious as the cylinders are bled, within a few more minutes, most of the air had separated. Final drive drain, oil was cloudy due to my obsession with the additive (below) and no detectable discolouration or metal after passing a magnet through the drain tray, about fifteen litres, new 85W/140 gear oil. We have this Teflon additive in Australia, makes the oil cloudy, seems to have done a good job so far.
It's really good to see a machine being serviced well with proper attention to what's happening under the covers. The drill guide gadget is interesting, is that something you made up previously or what's the history on that? Thanks for putting up the pics and posts.
Thank you John for the kind remarks. The drill guide was used when the machine first arrived as 3 of 6 of these bolts were popped. In this schematic, they are #20 / #19 and its the three to the top of the chassis face that are under tension and in my CASE two were missing on the RHS and one on the left. I reckon that if all six failed, the machine might peel in half under abuse (which is what causes this along with neglect to check fasteners) and replace on a schedule of use, say every 2,000 HRS for these bolts.
Final stage, check all the levels (again), lighting kit, air filter, park up now, diesel too expensive Idlers, I use grease here, pack it regularly. There was a set of spot lights (4 x 50W) not very effective with too much reflection from the centre pair back off the blade to see beyond, so I sourced some efficient LED kits then added a pair on the inner front of the canopy and when I was cleaning / checking under the dashboard re-sequenced the four way to only turn the centre pair at position #4 to reduce the reflection. These are total 130W load for much more light, although I have only once worked at night (and hope not to have to), these have a good field of light, without the capture from the reflection. Mostly shedded and a canvas cover at all other times, connected to the canopy, behind the seat. Front 48W lights, reasonably protected. After several weeks, off and on: All fluids All filters De-scale radiator Lots of cleaning Fixing minor faults Four cylinder gland leaks A part in from the U.S. (modulation filter) Lighting kit and 6 LED lights Materials, about $4,200 AUD, labour not included, but I think @Tinkerer said the cost of maintenance is not counted as a high figure depending on the factor of attention to detail.
Good Job and thanks for sharing pictures of some of your ideas on how to do simple repairs. Liked your homemade gland nut remover. May have to make one some day. Took a picture to add to my Technical Info File, Simon C
If you have light reflection issues off the back side of the blade try painting it matt black. You could also paint the blade lift cylinders if you wanted to. It’s usually a factory option, and essential for any dozer working night shifts.
Thank you Simon C, most appreciated. The machines we have are a life line and having advice from the knowledgeable people here on HEF makes it worthwhile.
Thanks Nige, now that you mention the matt black, yes I have seen that, but for me I'm really hoping to not have to chase fires at night!
From off-road pick ups starting to see more amber lights making it way on equipment less wash back. not mine
Like insurance for your vehicle. Better to have it and not need it rather than need it and not have it.
Great point and actually I have a combo led headlight with amber which I have preferred lately, now that you mention it. Nah, me either.
Thanks Nige, yes there shouldn't be an excuse now that the lights are better, if I have to night move! Also thx for the image of Ronnie Barker, icon of English comedy "Open all Hours" and so many more, a legend.
Forgot to mention that if you get the spray gun out for the blade do the top of the hood at the same time.