Came across a 12 KW Newage genset with Izuzu power nicely set up on a skid with a roof and fuel tank. Price is 2500.00 ,but says it just needs a voltage regulator. What kind of task is that to repair,if thats really all it needs?
If it is just an AVR, it's as easy as some mounting hardware and either and plug or swapping individual spade connectors over to the new unit. Any chance of a model/serial? Is this local where you could actually check it out? Any info on how they determined it's a bad AVR (besides saying, "It isn't making power")?
I have not gone that far looking at it. I lose enthusiasm when someone says it just needs this ,but its not my field of expertise. Thats why i posted here just to see if i its worthwhile to investigate further. Based on your post if its just the voltage reg ,ill check it out and post further details. Thanks
If it's a no voltage issue; Could be looking at a rotor, stator, AVR, brushes/slip rings (if a brushed gen end) or PMG exciter. It's never a guarantee it's just the AVR, but that's the first thing to blame if someone is unable to test the different components. If you can see it in person and pull the rear cover, can see if anything is burnt up. Also if possible good to see if it's a low voltage (excitation) issue or actual no voltage issue.
If it is "just" the VR, how come they did not "just" replace it themselves and get more money? I hate that word "just" An Isuzu motor on a Newage gen head is top of the line in my book, though.
use a battery and put 12vdc on exciter leads marked F1 and F2 voltage output should be approx 200 vac if connected 120/240 volts 1 phase.
Remove F leads from voltage regulator to do test
Look for signs of mice when the cover is off as well. We had so much mouse damage in one unit that we had to have a new wiring harness installed. Cam
Here it is ,sorry i just realized i didnt take a picture of the inside wiring as it is. I would like this to be putting out single phase,idealy a panel box with a 220/240 plug and a couple of 110/120 plugs.
Hook it up per the upper right double delta connection. U and W are your 240 output.
To the untrained electrical eye going from the diaghram on the lid to whats in the box looks a bit daunting. I dont want any sparks . Are U and W marked on the terminals under the wire groups?
No guts no glory.
U and W are imaginary. If you reconnect the wires as shown in the double delta, those corners shown become U and W and that is where your hot wires land. But it depends on how you rearrange those numbered wires where U and W will end up.
I had the guts ,but the glory didnt replace the electrical devices ive fried in the past. So now i ask questions.
Thats the 64$ question ,how you rearrange the wires . Im getting the feeling this might be above my pay grade if i want to end up with a working generator. Ive hooked up some 3 phase stuff in my shop with reasonable success .
Are the ID labels on the wires intact? If so, can get you wired up.
You just land them on whatever studs they will fit so they are in the right combination for the diagram you are using. U1, V6 and your sensing wire 8 go to a particular stud and are also one of your hots. V5 and W2 go to another stud. W1, U2, V2, U5 go on some other stud and that is your neutral.. And so on. If the numbered wires are on opposite sides you use one of those brass plates to link 2 studs together. You will have extra brass plates so just double them up so they are not lost for the next guy.
Yes the the id labels are still intact .What does it mean wire 6 may not be required ? I will get into it tonight after work. Thankyou for the direction.