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140 H transmission problem

Rafik79 ยท 2017-03-07 11:16

Good day all. I'm having a problem on my 140H. Gears 2/3/6 are engaging and neutralising with seconds. I have swapped the coils around but no luck. Please help Rafik

Replies29
  1. #1Nige2017-03-07 12:42

    Drain the transmission oil and remove the suction strainer. Take photos of the material you find in the strainer and post them back here. Also indicate how long it is since the strainer was last removed and cleaned. Have you done a pressure test on the transmission clutch #2 which is the common clutch used to engage 2nd, 3rd, & 6th speeds..?

  2. #2Rafik792017-03-08 03:14

    The pressure is perfect on clutch 2. The screen is also clean and oil also Clean.

  3. #3Nige2017-03-08 03:58

    When you say pressure is perfect, what was the reading you obtained..? You mentioned in your OP that you had tried moving solenoids around with no result. Have you checked the spool for free movement..? Also have you removed and cleaned the small screen in the body of the transmission control valve that is designed to prevent particles getting to the spools..?

  4. #4Rafik792017-03-08 04:40

    I checked the spool it's absolutely fine no particals and free. The pressure I got was 380 psi +- I'm a bit confused on how to check power on the solenoids please help me on this Thanks

  5. #5Nige2017-03-08 13:19

    I think you need to look at your pressures again, and maybe also the method you are using to take them. The spec on #2 clutch is 341+/-14psi, so 380psi (if correct) is above spec. The pressure specification for each clutch is different, varying from 298 to 397psi depending on which clutch is involved. Also, how did you set the machine up to take the pressures, by removing the driveshaft which is the procedure called out in the service manual, or by jacking the rear wheels off the ground which is how a lot of people do it..? See the illustration below. To which of the eight numbered test points did you connect to take the pressure for #2 clutch..?

  6. #6Rafik792017-03-08 13:38

    Thanks for the info will check the pressure again and contact you

  7. #7Rafik792017-03-08 13:39

    We jacked the rear wheels up

  8. #8Rafik792017-03-09 03:42

    Hello Nige I re checked the pressure on the clutch 2 which is port c and I'm getting exactly 340psi If I'm getting correct pressures does that mean clutch pack2 is ok?

  9. #9Nige2017-03-09 04:06

    You must be using a different illustration to me. Which port are you testing on for clutch #2 in the illustration in post #6 above..?

  10. #10Rafik792017-03-09 04:23

    According to the above illustration the port I used was #2

  11. #11Nige2017-03-09 04:33

    That's the correct one for clutch #2. You say that speeds 2, 3, & 6 initially engage but then drop out "within seconds". How many seconds does it take and what happens to the clutch #2 pressure when the transmission gear does drop out..? What is the machine Serial Number, or at least the S/N prefix..?

  12. #12Rafik792017-03-09 04:56

    Literally it takes 2 /3 seconds but the pressure doesn't drop at all

  13. #13Rafik792017-03-09 05:00

    Serial # 9TN0084

  14. #14Nige2017-03-09 05:34

    That makes no sense to me unless there is something partially blocking the passage between the control valve and the #2 clutch pack that is not allowing sufficient oil flow to maintain the clutch engagement. If there was a problem in #2 clutch the pressure should drop after the initial engagement. You said the suction screen has been removed for inspection and was found to be clean. Was that during the diagnosis of this shifting issue..? I know you have swapped a few around but have you tested the resistance of any of the solenoid coils..? The spec is 31+/-3 ohms.

  15. #15Rafik792017-03-09 05:53

    Yes it was done for this diagnosis. Do you suspect the clutch pack #2 ? What do you propose we do

  16. #16Rafik792017-03-09 05:56

    Let me re check the solenoids and let u know Really appreciate your help

  17. #17Rafik792017-03-13 03:19

    Hello again I checked all the solenoids again. They are all perfect with the recommended ohms. Any advice what to do next

  18. #18Nige2017-03-13 04:55

    What's confusing me (and I suspect you too) is that when the transmission gear drops out after 2/3 seconds the #2 clutch pressure remains constant. If there was a leak in the #2 clutch then the pressure should drop, also if there was something wrong with the solenoid for #2 clutch the pressure should also drop. Try hooking up a multimeter to the solenoid side of the harness connector for the #2 clutch solenoid and see if there are any variations in the voltage applied to the solenoid when you engage 2nd gear.

  19. #19Rafik792017-03-13 04:58

    The suction screen is clean also

  20. #20Nige2017-03-13 09:07

    Try the test I spoke about above with a multimeter on the solenoid for #2 clutch and see what happens to the voltage on the solenoid.

  21. #21Rafik792017-03-13 12:04

    Ok thanks will try that and let u know

  22. #22Rafik792017-03-14 12:49

    Hello nige. I did the test u mentioned I'm getting 23.3 volts. The voltage is not dropping. Re checked the pressure still giving me 340/350 psi and not dropping also.

  23. #23Rafik792017-03-14 12:50

    Could it be the seals on clutch #2 bypassing?

  24. #24Nige2017-03-15 09:45

    I don't think so. The test point for #2 clutch measures the pressure being sent from the control valve to the clutch. The only thing I can possibly come up with is the passage between the control valve and the clutch is somehow partially plugged. The way I see it is that if the clutch engages then after 2-3 seconds drops out there is oil going to it initially, but somehow the oil flow is not being maintained at the necessary level to keep the clutch engaged. All cltuches leak to a certain extent, that's what all the time the cltuch is required to be engaged the solenoid for that clutch is energized. According to what you are saying the test point tells a different story, the pressure rises to the specified 341+/-15psi and never varies, so something appears to be happening between the test port and the clutch. I hate to say this but I think the next move is to have the control valve off the trasnsmission and check for anything that could be partially plugging a port/passage somewhere. While it is off the machine also check the screen in the control valve for debris. There is no access to that screen without removing the control valve. See below, Ref. #22........

  25. #25Rafik792017-03-15 12:20

    We did all this. We removed the control valve cleaned all the spools. The screen had no debris at all. Fitted back the control valve and tried the machine again and it's still doing the same. Checked the pressure again and it's perfect at 350psi Could it be that some clutch friction plates are worn out on clutch#2???

  26. #26Nige2017-03-15 15:04

    Right back at the start of this thread I asked about whether or not you had removed the transmission suction screens to check for the presence of clutch material. Are you confusing those screens (5 & 6 in the illustration below) with the screen in the control valve..? If a friction disc in clutch #2 has lost the material that's where you'll find it.

  27. #27Rafik792017-04-12 06:39

    Good day nige. Just an update on my 140H I dropped the transmission and changed all the clutches and plates. It was perfect. Worked for 4 days and all of a sudden no gears are engaging front or reverse. Put it on the computer and it's showing that solenoid number 8 is giving more than required power. I put a new solenoid but it's still doing the same. Any idea what to check next Regards

  28. #28Mark2502017-04-12 20:15

    are you saying that the fault code indicates high current draw(short circuit) remove pin #17 (grey 903) from the ECM and see if the fault code changes to reflect open circuit if it does you have a harness issue

  29. #29Rafik792017-04-13 03:31

    It was the ECM which had a problem. I changed it and everything is ok Thanks a lot everyone for helping appreciated