. My 143h 1al00815 while was working very good start to make a noise when i was putting the shift level to neytral. After a while it stop and today start again about 4 hours after i had start up. It again start the same noise at neutral and I notice that this noise was from starter. How this is happening? The starter starts working when i put the lever at neutral and no all times.today it was really hot and thanks god it didn’t get fire. Have anyone here something to suggest to help me find a solution?
I don't know what a 143h is. But the starter is being turned on when you put it in neutral because the start switch (ignition switch) is stuck on, and the neutral switch is in that circuit to prevent the starter from operating with the transmission in gear.
6 wheel drive 140H is what I figured.
Thanks mr. At one or two days i will have a new switch to try and i will come back and inform you what happens. Thanks a lot
Do you have a multi meter? or an auto electrical repair specialist nearby? This should be a relatively simple diagnosis. No need to shut down if you can figure out what's wrong and bypass it to keep running. Unless the starter is broken, pay close attention to that sound, it won't last long running like that.
I have a multimeter but I don’t know what i must do
I don't how that starts, if you have a key switch? or a display or some other style of start button? If it was a key switch, I'd check the voltage on the back when you turn the key to "ON" and then to "start" the voltage at the start terminal on the back should stop when you release the key from the start position if working correctly, I suspect yours isn't working correctly and might have voltage at the start when the key is in the "ON" position. Leave it in gear so it doesn't start and you can take your time checking. Before you do that, be prepared to disconnect the batteries, or remove the small wire at the solenoid if it starts cranking and won't stop.
Thanks mr
Thanks to Nige for the electrical diagram. It looks like that's a regular key switch ("key start SW") to start it. Power goes to the "neutral start control" and also the transmission controller off the same wire. The neutral start control has two inputs from the transmission for park and neutral, but the "bat +" is actually the wire from the key start switch so I don't think that SHOULD fail in such a way to cause the issue here. From the neutral start control the start signal goes to a start relay and then the solenoid on the starter, all basically standard wiring. The only other important things are several connections to start aid, other controllers or dash. Some of those other controllers or wires COULD backfeed power to the start signal, but that is unlikely. Assuming nobody has messed with the wiring and spliced wires that shouldn't be spliced, or rats have not chewed through wires and made those splices randomly, then the most likely issue is the key switch, that's also the easiest to test. With all of the extra wires hooked into the start signal at different places, if the start terminal stays hot after the key is released from the start position, disconnecting the wire from that terminal would be the next step, then test for voltage, or continuity if you disconnect all wires at the start switch.
The switch mr will come at friday. If i must work which wire i must disconnect?the switch has 4, one orange one black and two red
George can you post a photo of the wiring.?
Unfortunately I don’t take any pictures nige
Follow the wiring diagram. The wire to the start terminal on the switch is 307 OR for orange color. The number will be identified on the wire also. The terminal on the switch should be identified as "ST" or "start", and should turn the voltage on when the key is held to start, and lose voltage when the key is released. do that testing with the tranmission in gear so it doesn't start, or remove the small wire at the solenoid so it doesn't start. You'll need to find out where the failure is to fix it or bypass it to keep working. If the key switch has failed and is still sending voltage to the starter at "ON" with the key released, then adding another momentary switch and connecting the line to that could work. If you're not comfortable understanding this yourself, then get an automotive electrical repairman to help, with the wiring diagram it's simple for someone with experience to find the issue, most of the time...
One electrical repairman told me that the problem is at starter and only the starter i take photo
Mr delmer if i start the machine and take out the orange wire should be a problem with anything?I understand that i will not can to start it again buf I don’t mind i will work all day and i will shut off when i finish
Or if i put out when i start if the fuse for the switch?
If the starter runs when the machine is in neutral, and goes off when you put the machine in drive, and it does that more than once, then I don't think you have a problem at the starter. If you must use the machine, I would disconnect the small wire at the solenoid on top of the starter, 304 WH 10 in the diagram. But if you're going to use the machine, be sure it's off and doesn't come back on. That starter has to be extremely expensive, plus the chance of fire.
304 white, ok thanks mr
Also is dont do it from the start of the day but after about 4 hours of work
That is unusual. I would definitely disconnect the 304 WH 10 white wire at the starter solenoid in that case, and run a wire to the cab to a temporary red LED bulb where you can't miss it, then test by trying to start it to make sure the light works. I would not risk damaging the starter by leaving that hooked up while running, and you won't know it's fixed without running it. You still have to be extremely careful for the noise of the starter if there is some way it could come on by itself, even with that wire disconnected. The problem coming after 4 hours makes everything more complicated. I mentioned all the extra wires in that start circuit, and don't believe they are the issue, I have never seen a module fail and backfeed like that, but it is remotely possible. I'd suspect that would be the result of obvious rodent damage (chewing the wiring harness or urine) or saltwater which will act the same as mouse urine. Once you have the red LED light set up, and it lights up indicating the problem, then you can take your time diagnosing the problem, wiggling the harness, checking voltage etc.
Hi mr delmer. The last three days of work the switch was open at first and the lights of panel open and then I didn’t caught up push it and the engine was starting. At first you needed to puch the key to start but now you just hold it and run. I have order the switch from last thursday for this problem before i had the noise from starter. But i haven’t yet the switch. Today i phone them and say to me that tomorrow they wull send it tome and at Saturday i will have it
Hi mr delmer. Today morning i put the new switch. I work about 8 hours . Noise never come back and the starter was all the time cold.I believe the problem is solved