I am having a problem getting my bucket in the float position. It has worked months ago but resist doing it now. Any suggestions......thanks
Mine is a little stiff, seems like a stiff detent.
Detent can get rusty and corroded. It's on the end of the spool. More than likely can be cleaned.
Thanks I need to check that, the other fellow could be having a similar problem to a greater degree
thanks
I tried looking on Case web site for information on the detent in the valve and it now seems that only a kit is available for something over $300.00! Don't have access to a service manual any more so I can't post how to remove and replace those parts but one might get lucky and be able to disassemble and clean and reassemble to get it working. If new balls for the detent are needed I would measure the best ones and try finding them on line from a bearing supply house, No idea what size they would be but one place I looked you could get 100 7/32 balls for under $6.00 including shipping. Another place to check would be a bicycle shop they use all kinds of loose balls and probably have a draw full. The biggest problem would be if the spring for the balls were bad. They are available from Case but them thieves want $37.00 a bag with just two in it! I suppose if you could find balls and only needed the two springs that would be way better than the $305.00 kit! Wonder who makes the valves for Case??? Might look and see if there is a logo or name on the valve, might be possible to get parts from the valve company?
so the detent is not located with the spool with the other rods that move for bucket controls?
What else happened today is the oil drain plug had a stripped head. Not possible to get it out. I used a oil sucker through the dipstick tube to empty the oil. Someone put that thing in way to tight.
I may have confused things a bit by not showing the complete valve assembly. Below should be the exploded view of the valve with the detent parts outlined in red: It may be worth a try to remove just the bolt #19 and spring #22 and try flushing out with something like WD-40 to see if the ball will free up and start working again. Don't think you can get the second ball out with out removing the cover but just might loosen things enough to get the detent to work again.
thanks for the update
is the bolt the real thin headed one under the hydraulic hoses? Will fluid leak out? I hope I cam get to it........
I found 2 1/2" bolts heads One in the front and 1 in the back. Seemed strange neither would tighten. I was afraid of dropping the bolt into never land.
Any chance of posting a picture of the valve on you machine? Might be different than what I'm recalling.
the bolt circled is the front one. There is another one like it in the rear.
another shot
The detent housing should be where I put the pink star on the first picture. I adjusted to picture a bit to make it a little easier to see. Yes it is a bit tricky to see or touch it. Might have to remove a couple hoses to really get in there. Or just clean the area out real good and remove the complete valve and take it to the bench to work on. One idea if you do remove the valve steal a cookie sheet from the kitchen and work on valve while it is sitting in the cookie sheet. Two advantages to that one it keeps mess off the bench and second if you drop some small bits it will be easier to find them. Bad points are if you get caught or don't clean it real good the next batch of chocolate chip cookies will taste funny!
The part you have circled is the cap for the load check valve,it is shown as item 12 in the parts drawing.
kith, Could you look at the picture I posted with the pink star? The more I think about it I put that pink star a bit off. I think the star might be at the back of the bucket cylinder spool and should have been on the boom cylinder spool. Did some models switch which spool in the valve body controlled which cylinders. Been over six years since I was within half a mile of a Case skid steer so I maybe a bit off with my memory!
Really hard to see in the picture, the cap with the detent is quite a bit longer than the one on the bucket spool. Looking at the parts drawing the loader spool is the one closest to the center of the machine. You can shake control levers to make sure.
why couldn't you tap on the rod from the front to make it over the indent?
Well if the detent is working right you could very possibly get it to snap in to the detent position. But I thought we were dealing with a non-functioning detent. They can fail in at least two ways. First is the springs or balls might get jammed and not pop in to the grove in the spool extension, item #17 in picture above. When this happens the centering spring will just pop the spool back to neutral position. Second is the balls and springs may get so tight in their holes they will not let the spool go all the way to float position. And again the centering spring will return the spool to neutral. The difference between the two modes of failure are hard to tell apart unless on is very familiar with how the controls feel when working properly. Just thought of another mode of failure that item #17 could somehow get broke and then there would be no way for it to hold spool in float. And just for fun one more! The ridge on the #17 due to being worn from running on rusty balls and mud could just plain and simple be worn to the point that even nice new balls and springs might not be able to hold against the pressure of the centering spring. I know I can tend to get carried away describing things but the simple answer is sometimes not that simple. The only real way to know what the problem is would be to clean up the machine and start removing parts. Just being careful to not drop little bits down into places.
Unfortunately there is no other way to get it to work properly than take it apart and do what it takes to get it fixed.
thanks for your reply and explanation
Yes! and it will take a mixture of the following: Time, money and probably a skinned knuckle or two. How much of each depends on your skill and ability to answer questions and follow directions along with how fast you need to get it fixed and how long it was not working.
exactly what is the valve assembly called? I have a 1845 service manual and a 1840 machine.
Is this the valve that controls the bucket and boom that is pictured in my post #9 above? If so it would be called the "loader control valve"
That's the one. Do you have to remove all the hoses to get it out? thanks
I would say that would be how I would do it. What I liked to do to mark hoses and fittings is to take a prick punch and mark fitting and hose ends to keep them matched. Simple way is to put one dot on hose end and one on matching fitting, then next hose use two dots, then three and so on. Then to be safe make a sketch of the valve and label it to match the marks on the fittings. If only needing clearance to get at the detent end you could just remove the hoses blocking your access. And I hope it goes without saying cleanliness is very important anytime working on hydraulics!
I think they designed those things for someone with small hand....lol
If you think that Case is bad find a 1989 vintage BobCat 743 and take a look at the control valve for that machine!
The spool in the valve body is a snug fit. It has to be straight when removing and putting it back in, so you need to remove enough stuff to give you room.
Are you saying it can be changed without removing the whole valve?
It can be done in the machine. The front oring can be a challenge to replace and keeping it clean. Nothing on a skid loader is easy,it comes down to what you are comfortable doing. I tell people the first things to grab is aspirin and band aids!
I'm assuming the aspirin is to help with the pain from beating you head against the side of the loader. That 743 Bobcat was one where the only way I could get access to a couple of the hoses on control valve, or was it the pump??, was to pull the engine! At least that was not that bad of a job!
LOL
from the diagram what numbers do I need to order?
Do you have the valve apart? Maybe I'm just a bit cheap but would prefer to know what the problem is before ordering parts. Also depends on how far you want to get into the valve assembly. If doing a complete disassembly to replace all seals then all the numbers from 27 through 33 keeping in mind that there are more than one of some of them. Then as the original problem was the detent not working that might need the 9605374 kit which goes for Something like $305.00 Like I said I'm a bit cheap so before spending way over $300.00 I would want to know the problem needed all those parts. The detent not working could be something as minor as a bit of rust and mud inside that housing #23 in the parts breakdown. And that might be fixable for just the time to remove and clean it. There is no way I or anyone else could be sure of the real problem without seeing it apart. If someone says they can they are better than me or they just like spending your money!
thanks for the reply. My only iossue is the float not working. The valve itself is fine with no leaks.
so #23 is on the inside shaft not the outer?
I can only go by how the picture shows it. I would suggest having someone work the controls while you watch the valve or just wiggle the linkage by the valve to see which spool is connected to the lever that raises and lowers the boom. A bit more searching and I see like I thought I had mentioned before that depending on the S/N range the spool that controls the boom can be the one on the left or on the right of the valve body. So as I think it says at the bottom of my post it is always best to include a full S/N when getting into details of any machine. It may say Cat there but it is the same for just about any machine. Better to provide information than to cause confusion by omitting information!
Case 1840 serial # JAF0154782* it looks likle the outer rod moves with the boom and float . thanks
OK then it would be this valve not sure if part numbers are the same and the only difference is the location in the body. Case does not make it easy to save the number list. You can try looking yourself at this link,: https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/casece#epc::model_find Note that up near the top there is a box that says "Search Part By" click on that and select "Model" then put in your 1840 and you should be able to find it from there. In the hydraulic section there are four control valves listed. The one I believe you have would be the third one down with the number 08-07 shown as the page number.
Thank you very much.
if I can clean the ball and spring out would that help? Is that the detent? 16 19 22
Yes but there are two balls and two springs. Have not had one of exactly that style apart that I recall but thin you have to remove the housing #23 to get access to the two not shown in the drawing. Maybe someone who has been in one of these will see and reply, but what I'm thinking is you need to pull the cover off being careful to not loose the balls and springs. Then once everything is cleaned leave the bolt, spring and ball shown in the picture out while installing the cover. You would put the spring then the ball in the bore in the housing and working through the bolt hole push down on the ball and spring on the opposite side while sliding housing into position and bolting on with the two bolts #15. Once that is in place drop the ball down the bolt hole and next the spring and last install bolt #19. Hope that makes sense! If not let me know and I'll try to do a sketch or something to explain it better!
It has auxiliary hydraulics. Do you know if I will need to remove all the hoses on the unit?
I have a 2000 case 1840 bought last year, float detent didn’t work,can be fixed without removing the whole valve body, Phillips bit with universal joint and a few extensions on a quarter inch ratchet,don’t lose the balls and springs, mine was corroded and the balls had flat spots worn on them, I was able to clean the springs and housing and found a bearing with same size balls that I was able to take apart and use, greased everything put together, good as new
good info thanks
It looks like I can get to it from the back of the machine. Does it have 2 phillips screws holding on? I just need to remove one hydraulic hose to get to it.
I need to take off #23 not #6 correct?
Correct.
Yep! and be ready to catch the balls when you pull it off. Assuming they are there or not rusted in place. When working correctly they snap into the grove in the rod #17 when you put the boom into float.
You need to remove the pin In the spool then the two bolts in #23,then remove the spool and detent together. Then take the detent apart. Lay it on a heavy shop rag or towel so the parts won't roll away. I assume you have the loader raised and the safety strut in place to keep it up.
When you say remove the pin are you referring to #19? I do have the safety bar in place. I trying to do this from the rear of the machine. I hesitant about removing all the top hoses especially the hard plumbed ones. Sorry for all the question and thanks for your help.
The pin is in the opposite end of the spool and hooks the linkage to the spool. It is not shown in the above parts drawing.
I may have missed it, but does the loader have a self leveling bucket ? The parts book shows different valves for a machine with or without that capability.
I would not remove the spool! look at post 47 again, this can be done from under the back without taking any hoses off and having to deal with fluid dripping in your face. Chances are it is just gummed up with crud and corrosion and a good cleaning will solve the problem provided that you can get the tension spring out without it braking. Dig in and good luck!
How is the fluid going to drip anyone's face when you're standing and looking down at it?