1991 Case 1845C. 4-390 engine. (non turbo) Have had it about 15 years. Always ran great. Recently was working with it, not terribly hard, but getting its attention. Drove over to office to get a water break. Left it running. While sitting in the office, I hear it start to run erratically. Was wondering if it was running out of fuel. Crap. Ran out there and was inches away from touching the key and it stalled. Gauge inop, so checked with "manual" gauge. Low but at least 4". Didn't try to restart, just grabbed cans, went to store and filled them, poured them in there, just automatically performed bleed procedure without trying it. Started up. Went back to where I was working. I usually just operate at around half throttle to cut down the noise. Didn't seem to have the same power, and was easy to stall. Put lever at full throttle and it didn't seem to increase speed at all, plus it felt like it was misfiring and smoking from the exhaust. Replaced fuel filter (single filter system), no change. Removed both air filters, no change. Pulled lift pump output line and observed flow. Was questionable, so got an OEM pump and replaced. No change. Had a remote friend that works on this stuff daily giving me some tips through this. I'm a retired auto mechanic of 48 years that specialized in automatic transmissions, so a little out of my wheelhouse. Configured fuel supply from fuel can to lift pump, bypassing machine tank and line. No change. Ran fuel flow test from lift pump again. Pumped half a #10 size bean can half full in about 15 seconds. Checked exhaust back pressure, maybe 0.5PSI. Removed fuel shutoff solenoid and inspected. Not sticking or gummed up. Plunger pulls in strong when energized. (with same circuit) There's nothing else to take apart or test that I can think of. Pulling that injection pump looks like a real trip to Hollywood. If this pump is gummed up with wonderful Bio, is there anything that has come out recently to run through it and clean it up, or is that a pipe dream? It's a CAV pump. Solenoid on the bottom. Pic included. All input appreciated! Thanks!
If ANYONE knows of a product PLEASE, PLEASE post it.!!! I’ve been fighting Bio-snotted up pumps for years and haven’t found a product that’ll touch it besides gasoline and that only makes it soft..
Thanks for the reply TPG, I was hoping that you would. I guess if anyone was going to know, it would be you. Looking at my info, is it a possibility that it's just gummed up inside from that crap, or something more mechanical?
Isn't there a tiny screen inside the intake on the end of the injection pump? Also, check the return for air bubbles, either a section of clear vinyl tubing, or submerge a line in fuel. The problems I've seen with bio, it's stuck so they wouldn't run after sitting, never seen one running rough from bio gunk. Running is the best solution, with fresh fuel. I think MN has much less bio in the blend after Sept, so maybe buy enough fuel before they switch back in the spring to last through the summer, or run a temporary boat tank so the fuel turns over much faster.
There is a strainer at the inlet of the pump. I think you have to remove the inlet line and remove the fuel line adapter to access it. I never had to do it but know it's there
I've got both the factory manual and the parts book and neither show one there.
There is one but inorder to take it off, u have to destroy it in most cases.. THEN UR STUCK.. trying to order one..
Oh, interesting. I'll have to check then, thanks!
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Put an angled pick on the top edge, pulled, and it came right out! Look at it! It's just packed with ****!!! I guess I found my problem?
Idk why but I was thinking it was a RoosaMaster/Stanadyne pump.?? Glad u found the problem.. Just blow it off and reinstall it. And keep a better eye on the fuel gauge.. no more sucking the tank dry..
The gauge is inop, but my "manual" gauge showed at least 4". But it's 32 years old, too. Who knows what's in the bottom of that tank. I'll report once I get it back together and running.
Even if it wasn't empty, bouncing around could have caused it to suck air. I'm not sure on yours if there's a plug to remove or valve but I would loosen whatever is there and drain off any moisture collected in the bottom. Glad you found a plugged strainer. Hope that fully corrects the problem.
If you look in your manual, it lists the ohm readings you should see from the fuel tank sender unit. If you know you have a full tank, pull the wires off and ohm it out. Or if you have a appropriate size resistor, attach it and see if your gauge is working. Not rocket science.
Yes, thank you, I'm well versed in checking a fuel gauge. There's several areas of love needed on this machine. And they will all be addressed this winter.
That screen is an emergency backup, and now you know your fuel situation reached emergency conditions. The other two filters should take all that crap out, so either they ruptured, or that gunk built up from bad fuel sitting in the lines between the filters and that screen, right? Try to keep fresher fuel, even if that means adding a smaller tank if you don't use it much, or keeping it full but still running it down below a quarter when you'll use it a lot in one day to get rid of the old.
There's only one fuel filter. So yes, now I know not to run it down quite so far. Live and learn.
Running it low shouldn't have caused that gunk to get to the injection pump, that's my point.
So, I'm wondering how it got there? It's 32 years old, and I'm far from being the only owner. Maybe someone used a fuel filter that has a bypass?
WIDE OPEN THROTTLE! SMOOTH RUNNING, NO SMOKE! Thank you to those that informed me of the little bas***d filter on the pump inlet! I appreciate it!
Have been working it for at least 2 hours now. Works great!
Happy camper...
Just a finale update. Has been working fine ever since. Will be parking it in the shop in a few more days for some other repairs, long awaited for. Hyd leaks, charging system, fuel gauge, left side weak, new tires (take those solid tires off finally) and some new paint.