It just clicks when I turn key. I put jump box on it and it would start. Then I bought new battery. It started twice, and now I have to put the jump box back on it. Alternator??? Also, on my grapple bucket, when I close the grapple it closes all the way down and wont stop unless I tap the lever to go back open. It opens the way it should. When I press the foot lever to open it stops when I let foot off. When I close it goes all the down and then bogs down, as if its still trying to close more, unless I tap the lever to open back up
It started twice with new battery then you had to jump start it? It starts fine with the jump box but not the new battery? This does not sound right to me. A new battery should start it dozens of time even if the alternator is not working at all. Or did you start it and run it for a full day each time? All I can think is either the new battery is junk or there is some major draw on the electrical system killing it. I would start by disconnecting the battery and charging it up and if possible take it to who ever sold it to you and have it load tested. If it tests good then when you re-install it watch to see if there is spark when hooking up the last cable, should not be any if the key is off.
I would suggest cleaning out under the spool valve for the aux hydraulics. The spool on mine sticks out the bottom and if it's dirty in there it doesn't work properly.
Deanm, could you take a pic and post the spool valve. I installed new battery and ran for 1 minute. Shut off started immediately after and started up fine. Ran machine for 30 mins and then shut off. Started a few minutes later and it started fine again. Ran for another 30 mins, and then tried to start the following day, but when I turn key...it just clicks, and won't start unless I use jump box...just like with old battery. So I ran it for about an hour with new battery, which must have been charged (Napa) BC it initially started. The alternator can't be working can it?
Test the system voltage, at the battery, with a voltmeter, while the engine is running. If the alternator is charging it will read around 13.5v - 14v.
Don't sound right. those few starts on a new battery and then sitting over night should not kill a good battery. In addition to testing as alrman suggests I'd say check voltage at the battery with key off and then have someone try to crank it and see what the voltage is while holing key in start position for a couple seconds.
If it test OK running, disconnect the cable overnight and see if it will start the next day. Could be a bad new battery, or too much current "leaking". could be the diodes on the alternator are leaking, so even though the alternator is charging fine, it's still causing the problem. I say this because there's usually not much else that would leak current on equipment (compared to all the things that have power on a car when it's off)
firecatf7333 , Check out here for parts breakdowns on your machine. It looks like there are a few different styles of the Aux controls used on the 1845Cs http://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr52343ag121861
That's true. One way you can sport this at times is if after sitting all night before you try to start it just feel the alternator. If it's warm there's your problem. Or if you disconnected the battery overnight watch when you hook it up if key is off and you see a spark when touching the cable to the battery I'd suspect the diodes in the alternator.
is the battery dead when it wont start. if the starter or solenoid is going bad it might start when you have fully charged battery, might check connections at starter
Put a relay on it to handle the heavy draw of the starter solenoid, a common problem with them and many Case hoes that are updated to the Nippondenso starter.
This is a good idea for ours. Once in a great while it will "pop" the main fuse while trying to start. It seems to hesitate to crank over and I'm thinking maybe the pull in windings are not getting full voltage and not pulling in far enough to activate the hold in windings and the pull in windings draw just a touch too much amps for the fuse. Good project to schedule for next service that is coming due in a week or so. Thanks for the suggestion. Have not heard from Firecat if he solved his problem.
Sorry I haven't got you a pic yet Firecatf, had trouble with my modem. Will try and get one for you over the next couple of days.
I put the volt meter on it yesterday. The battery showed around 12.5 volts. Then I tested the negative/positive connections that attach to the battery, those showed 15 volts. The battery shows 12.5 volts with machine running and off.
Can you explain how to do the relay?
If I'm understanding correctly, you have loose or corroded battery terminals. There should be no voltage drop across the connections. The negative terminal to ground should have no voltage difference and the alternator bat terminal to positive battery terminal should have very little voltage drop. Fix the easy stuff before worrying about the relay.
I cleaned the battery terminals and the ground was the problem. Thanks that was dumb on my part as they looked clean, and I really should get a new connector as its not snug. How about the grapple sticking? I tightened the bolt that holds the aux hydraulic lever, and also cleaned out the tiny cylinder that moves the aux hydraulics up and down.
Right where that twig is pointing is where I had trouble with dirt build up.
So your talking all the way at bottom of picture? I just looked at the part at top of pic that connects to the foot lever
That's right the spool sticks out of the bottom and buildup in there can keep it from returning to the hold position
Now that the battery problem was fixed, I'd like to try and fix the grapple sticking( aux hydraulics) My local case mechanic told me that I have to take apart the piece shown in picture above, and where that cylinder goes up and down, it needs to be cleaned out b/c it's prolly rusted and that's what's holding it up. I'd like to try to do it myself. How doe that aux part come off? Take off the 4 hydraulic fittings, then it looks like there's two small bolts holding it too the bracket....then also that little pin that holds the ram(small cylinder ram that goes up/down) Dean- I looked at the spring on the bottom and sprayed w-d but that didn't do anything. I can tell the spring isn't moving correctly though. It could also be that spring is rusted, but first i'd like to try cleaning the inside as suggested by my mechanic. Thanks for the help
Take the 2 mount bolts out and e valve will come up we're you can work on it without disconnecting the lines. Isn't there suppose to be a die cast cap on the bottom covering that spring? I had this problem with an 1840 and replaced the cap, which is what the spring pushes against to return the valve to center.
The early models used this external spring setup. firecat - make sure the dirt is kept away from it. Blow the spring area with compressed air & be certain it is kept clean. There may be a little corrosion on the spool area & it may require dismantling to get it to work correctly.
reply I took the assembly apart. I used a chainsaw file to try and clean out the inside of cylinder/pump. I now realize I shouldn't have done this, hope it still works. I didn't have anything to fit just right inside the cylinder. I'm not sure if that's even why the grapple is sticking. The picture shows the way I believe everything is supposed to go back together. The last piece on the bottom of the spring is rusted/broke. Is there supposed to be a small oval "cap" on each end of the spring? the top part is ok, but the part at the bottom end of the spring as you can see in picture is no longer any good.
Do I understand correctly, You used a file inside the valve, where the spool lives?? By the looks of your pic, you need items 6 & 7 + 10 & 11 go without saying. The spool is likely sticking because the spring will be all cockeyed, to one side. I hope the valve body is still OK for you.....
The bottom washer (part 6) is what was causing your issues. Unfortunately, if you stuck a file in the bore of the spool valve, you will probably need a new valve body. Most of the time the spring seat washers or spring are the cause of problems with the aux valve. Later 1845C's have a cover that encloses the spring to limit these issues. Get the bottom washer (part 6) and put it back together, see how bad it leaks after the file fiasco and you may not have to get a new valve.
Thanks for the pics and info. I wish my mechanic would never have told me the inside of the spool valve was the problem, which is why I wanted to clean it. I'll try it and see what happens. Those valvle bodies look expensive too darn it. Where will it leak out of? Maybe i'll get lucky I didn't put a lot of pressure on it
Cleaning a spool valve is usually done with a lint-free rag or rinsing it with fluid, not a file. The aux valve body may be available from a salvage yard, as it is along way from the engine fire. The valve from either 1840 or 1845C loaders will interchange.
It will leak internally across the lands on the spool.
ok, this is what has happened. I broke off the nut (5) in the main shaft(13) because I tightened to much. Got it out, then taped it. Bolt goes in main shaft but is slightly off and not perfectly straight. I put it all back together with the new part(6), and the shaft won't push down like it's supposed to because it doesn't line up perfect to go through the opening of the new part. I put back together with no new part, so i'm missing part 6. Now it works the way it originally did, which I can get by with. If your sitting in the seat, when I push on right side of pedal, which will close my grapple bucket, this is when the main shaft(13) goes up, which is what its supposed to do, but then when I let off, its supposed to come back down automatically, which it doesn't do. I have to manually tap it down in the "middle" where its supposed to be. When I open grapple bucket, or press to the left on foot pedal, it opens like it should, and when I release foot it stops. I posted video on youtube that maybe you can see I don't see how part 6 would make the main shaft(13), come back down automatically like it's supposed to, or does that little shim put a little more pressure on spring? When I put part 6 at bottom of spring now, the main shaft(13) can't go down all the way because the bolt(5) hits the outer edge of the new part 6, instead of slipping through that hole, correct? EDIT EDIT EDIT----Now I see the BOLT is supposed to go on last, and I tried putting on part 6 last. Well let's try this one more time and see if that will fix my issue.
rofessor - "When all else fails......follow the instructions......
I placed the new part where it is supposed to go and now everything works fine. Thank you everyone for the help and pictures.