Figured I may as well start a thread on that old dog. For starters I'm collecting some parts and pieces, two long front drive shafts, air ride suspension, gear box, going to install a HFB64055 power steering box from a R model. And I disassembled the butterfly hood and my friend at the machine shop is rolling me out a new one just like the aluminum one that's on it. First I will strip the cab and nose off, remove engine and trans then correct the frame replace with new rail and extend it to 255 to 260 wheel base. I will work on body parts in the winter months. I will post photos along the way. Truck Shop
You are a glutton for punishment and I can't wait to watch and learn, thanks!
Looking forward to pics and maybe a few visits...
A couple of before photos for those who haven't seen it on another post. Truck Shop
It's my last total rebuild in my life before I'm too old and sore to do anything. A photo of a 69 KW I rebuilt 18 years ago. Truck Shop
Loads of effort in the KW!! Looks sweet!
If you get stumped on some of the cab parts let me know. Especially interior nick nacks as well as some of the chrome emblems. Tocci has all that stuff, NOS. No knock off crap.
Thanks, I'm going to need a Mack side hood emblem and a few other things. The big things are window sweeps, door gaskets, vent window seals and windshield gasket. And a place to get interior headliner material. Watts is pretty crazy on there B prices. Truck Shop
The one interesting thing you can't see in that photo of the 69 KW is I installed 1998 day light doors. That was probably one of the first old cabs someone installed those doors in. Because I built that truck in 2000 or 2001 and there were not many used day light doors available yet. Truck Shop
I am almost certain he still has that stuff around. We spent a lot of time selling fenders, doors, hoods etc when he was looking to move. He did keep most of the smaller stuff. I’ll send him a list and see what he’s got.
The guru says winshield rubber is available from Mack, he’s got a P/N. He uses the window sweeps from 50-60’s passenger cars. Door seals aren’t available but he’s had good results with 1/4” foam insulation, he’s going to see which he uses that looks somewhat correct lol. Which specific emblem/emblems do you need...? He’s got quite a stash in the gun safe lol. I do have the clout to motivate him to part with one or two
And there is always JC Whitney for some odd stuff to re-engineer to fit for seals and sweeps. Been there done that on old Dodges Fords and GMs(projects).
Have done some good with McMaster Carr as well for some odd materials. Last headliner I built was in thin fiberboard with padding and then the cover glued to the face wrapped over the edge trimmed and glued then attached with a plethora of screws and upholstery washers.
Working on sorting out some body parts, Cleaned and straightened the hood hinge and support bows on the inside of hood, cleaned and stripped the paint off those. Stripped the paint off a spare right fender looking for bad stuff under the paint-4 layers. That fender is in good shape aside from some small cracks on the edge and minor repair. I'm going to remove the fenders and check the left one next but I think it's about the same shape. The guy I have doing the body work and paint Jose Palamino dose damn fine body and paint and loves working on something that has some metal thickness. Truck Shop
So, that came out of CleElum? I have driven by Graham Bros. many years looking at their iron or what is left of it.
Made some progress today, moved it up to the shop where all my tools are. Drained the cooling system and oil plus drained the fuel tanks and removed those. Removed the air tank and stripped out the air lines and wiring to the rear. Cut the drive line out only thing left is cut the frame. Removed the exhaust, battery box and cables with a bolt cutter, torched every thing else. Tomorrow I will remove the right fender and headlight door then remove radiator. After that it's unbolt and remove cab and pluck that Maxidyne and Quadreplex. Truck Shop
Slow down. You’re makin me look bad! Haha
If this B model was all I had to do, Oh around new years I would be looking for something else to do. I hate setting still too long. Truck Shop
Heard that I did. I haven’t touched my A-car more or less since Will was born and he will be 4 this week!!!
You guys are giving me a complex!!
A friend of mine restores old trucks. The old Macks are some of the coolest looking trucks. This is his own b model that he's rebuilt and customized
Came up with the rest of my parts today for way less than the price of scrap iron. Bought a 81 Freightliner with a BCII 350 with a bell that has a right hand starter, 10 spd and 3.70 ratio SQHD's. Plus I have all my engine mounts and it has a pulse manifold and later Holset turbo. Everything I need in the large items plus several small items were there for a total of $500.00 bucks. I won't use the 404 Eaton rear drives, the SQHD drives will be fine for a garage queen. And just maybe the frame is correct too. I didn't have my tape measure with me but the rail looked very close to the same dimensions. Nice B61 above by the way. Truck Shop
That was a nice find Truck Shop !
$500? Some guys just fall into good deals..... Glad you found most of what you needed, but $500? Hope you at least brought him a case of beer when you went to pick it up.
I'm really disappointed he didn't go 8V92T @ 525HP. (sigh).
This guy has got a pile of old farm equipment and scrap acquired through the years he is at an age he just want's to get rid of it. And getting to the place is a job in the middle of no where near the Snake River and infested with buzz tails. Truck Shop
Actually a V8 Detroit would be a difficult fit, the Cummins will only leave 2" of clearance at the fan/radiator core. The Detroit with the air compressor at the back would be a nightmare. I measured a 318 no way Jose with the inside frame steering box. Truck Shop
Pretty sure you know I was just funnin' you.
Well I was going to ask if you had a shoe horn I could borrow. Truck Shop
Shoe horn and some Vaseline.....oh wait that’s for getting a.....to fit in a.....aw shucks never mind. This is a family show! Good score man!
Would the 1960 B75 been strictly a Mack engine truck ? Later years you would run on to a Mack with a Detroit .
And a big hammer .
No shoe horn, but I have this huge railroad aligning bar I found in the weeds by Sperry about 35 Years ago. It was on the side of the old UP track bed. Its been very good to me over the years.
Mack and 220/335 Cummins. They are just about done tearing the Sperry elevators down, that land mark is gone. Truck Shop
Shhhhh those Pinkertons are everywhere!!!
The BFH is the solution to everything!!
If it wont go... Force it. If it breaks... it needed replacing anyway.
I really liked the LJ and LTL Bulldogs, they could come with most any engine.
Forget the exact model but one of our quarries had a "B" model single axle with a V8 Chrysler Industrial gas engine in it! Don't know for a fact but was told that it came that way new from factory. I believe it was some version of the B-42 Mack line of trucks. On a somewhat side note the company also had a few old gas jobs with Mack engines in them looked very much like they took a END711 Diesel engine and swapped on a different pair of heads to convert it to gas, or maybe it was the other way around and the gas engine was converted over to a diesel. I was working on one of those old gas engines one time and needed some linkage part for the governor or carb. Called local Mack dealer and parts guy said no such thing, must be a homemade thing. That's when I started digging through all the old books I had and actually found a parts book for that model of truck. Called back to the dealer with part number and to my surprise factory still had the part on the shelf! I believe I did order it from the guy who "claimed" Mack never made a gas engine and the only response was "oh never heard of one". One thing I do recall is those gas engine seemed to run much hotter under the hood than the old diesels.
City of St. Louis FD had the END looking gassers, if you look at the old early Mack Diesels still had the casting boss position for a distributor drive. Not sure if the ENDs did not also have that cast region. Could read from the glow off the exhaust on the pumper Fire Trucks on night fires, they would intentionally open hoods to let them breath. First Bulldog diesel High Capacity Pumper they got I was at the training site, they connected it to a City hydrant and started pumping to show how well could draw, hydrant started bouncing then sheared off, collapsed the water line, the city went back to the gas engines a while longer as they would not do that!!
Been a few years but seem to recall the distributor ran off a gear on the accessory drive shaft that ran back to the coupling for the air compressor. Wasn't that also the shaft that ran the oil pump? Had to do some digging and best I could find was a 1969 Motor's Manual for trucks. That shows the EN707 Gas engine and the END711 Diesel. Also does show the Chrysler V-8 as the 414 and says refer to Dodge HT413 for more info! One version of the 707 had a whopping 6.1 compression ratio! and all the 707 were rated at a mind blowing 232 hp at 2,100 rpm! Also found an owners manual for Mack A-20H and A-30H trucks/ A-20B and A-30B buses running the EN-291 and EN-331 gas engines, and yes those numbers indicated the displacement in inches. Don't think the pulled doubles in the Rockies with those trucks!
I believe the 707 gas engine was the END 673 converted to gas, after dropping the compression ratio it gave that many more cubic inches to the displacement with the same bore and stroke. I had an old Mack A53 crane truck with an EN 471 gas engine (iirc) that gave pretty good service moving a 30,000 Lb truck around. It just had a drinking problem and got replaced by a Paystar with a 6-71 Detroit... The Mack was much quieter.
Not gonna lie, I'm excited about this. I've been hoping you would post a build thread here after seeing the pics of your B in the other thread. Before following this forum, I had never seen a B series Mack. Still never seen one in person, but they sure have those classic lines and I'm looking forward to seeing your progress in the restore.
NEVER? Seen a B? How old are you? B was the most Popular breed of Mack in my early days of memory!!
The cab will be off tomorrow, it's fairly well stripped except for the dash and wipers. And hopefully the engine and transmissions out this week end. Then cut the frame and get rid of the rear drives. Working alot of areas on it right now because when winter hits I will be working the sheet metal pat of it only, well maybe the BCII also. Truck Shop
Found this site with Photos!! https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/3015-mack-707-intake-manifold-question/
Well these days unless you went to a truck show most younger people probably haven't seen a B-model unless they live in New England. They still operate some back there. On the west coast it's a rare day to see one moving down the highway Truck Shop
This one makes it a little clearer, would NOT have wanted to wrestle those heads off! https://www.spaamfaa.org/for_sale/mack-enf707b-engine-tr6170-transmission-for-sale-8-18-16/
32... Seen lots of Mack trucks, but the rust belt here in Michigan keeps vehicle turnover fairly high. As far as vocational trucks, Ford and International were king in these parts as long as a can remember.
When I was a Youth!! And Yes I was at one time, neighbor down the street from our home drove a B63, hauled Steel pipe stock for Laclede steel Alton IL, Loved that old wagon!! He died as I made 9, was a terrible time as the truck just went away.
I think the big lack of B models out here was the sheer competition of makes such as Kenworth and Peterbilt that were more comfortable for long western hauling, and could hold larger engines that ran the mountain passes better. JMO.
The best way to run a Mack truck is behind a KW . LOL ! Keep that stench downwind behind ya bro !
That and parts availability. But like anything else when the R models came along they sold well out here. Equipped any way you wanted it. Truck Shop
We had many various versions of the "B" models in the company where I worked. Could have something to do with company being based in Easton Pa. and also owning a Mack dealership in that town! A small gravel bed operator just over the hill from my house was some what of a junkyard/collector of the old B models, not sure if he still has them out in the weeds. Every time the company was getting rid some old one they went to him, not sure if he paid anything more than scrap iron prices for them. For years both his sons ran ten-wheeler dump trucks delivering stone in the area with some of the nicest looking B models you have seen. Story I was told his oldest son actually built his truck using the last new cab Mack sold. Last I knew, about three year ago, that "kid" was still running a V-8 Superliner ten-wheeler hauling gravel and stone in the area. As for cabs on the B models, they were nice looking but I have to think the guy who designed them was maybe 5 foot 4 and 110 lbs soaking wet! Even with the seat all the way back there was not too much room between the seat and the steering wheel. I'm around 5'11'' and back then about 185 pounds and I felt cramped driving one just the short trips in the quarry can not imagine running cross country in one of them!
I work on B models a lot. About 20 years ago, I was replacing a clutch in a B-755. It came to me that, Mack engineers were in a bar having lunch one day and saw a Peterbilt go by that had a enclosed cab on it. It was raining and the light bulb went off. Paul says to Ralf, holy hell did you see that? Ralf, says what? Paul says that truck, the driver was inside where its dry! Ralf, says that’s amazing! Let’s have another beer and figure out how to do that to a Mack. The B models were born.
You mean as apposed to the cab on the truck I use as my avatar?
Well obviously you guy's never drove a 523,923, or a 64 to 81 W900A model Kenworth or a 351 Pete before the 359 model or any of the early White's, trucks using Dodge cabs or Western Stars. None of those cabs really had any room. The KW's would give you shin splints from holding the throttle pedal because you couldn't move the seat back, that was the big reason for the B-cab KW after 81. You had to be a skinny fellow to drive a 351 for the same reason. But people these day's are packing more biscuits and gravy {mainly gravy} around, most of them have a problem with their belt buckle staring at the ground. I'm 6'1" and 206 Lbs been that way my whole adult life and I have driven just about everything that's old by today's standard and none of them had very much room. Junk food is the reason for the bigger cabs. Besides you never want a driver too comfortable-He won't have anything to Bit(h at if everything is just right. Truck Shop
Still remember the A-cars and Whites cabs, the Bostrum 'West Coaster' spring ride seats, remember the Internasties with the fixed seat on the heater box so hot in winter you could fry hot dogs and so cold in summer to freeze water but WOULD NOT heat or cool the cabs. Actually Drove a Acar A64B with White 'Velvet Ride' suspension someone had transplanted for whatever reason, would throw you into the headliner at expansion cracks on roadways out of a Bostrum. HAD to wear the seatbelt or take the whoopin!! Had Armstrong Power steering, a Super 250 Cummins on a RTO9513 and Eaton 44k rears all on 22" Daytons, six spoke. Ac was a unit in the back window hole when it was working using a portable generator on the frame behind the cab. Classy Ride, hauled fuel. Pulled a 38' US ** surplus purchase STEEL tanker of 7500 gallon capacity, NO baffles had full undermount tool boxes and a PTO driven recovery pump(HUGE) could ALMOST scale 5800 gallons of gasoline, 5700 gal diesel or around 5700 gal JP4 in 1978. Rough mutha to run, top speed on the ?4:56? Eatons was 62mph and about all one wanted to deal with. IIRC the truck trailer combined EMPTY weight was near to 40k and licensed to 73280.
Company I worked for in IL had a White Road Commander that was near as bad as the Acar, except the driver had to bring a box of rags and towels to stuff in the cab corrosion holes to keep any seasonal heat or cool going on inside.
An IH West coaster or any K-model could force you to lose weight too.
Saw this sign today at a jobsite we're going to next week and I thought of you going after your parts truck. Be careful out there!
I'm thinking that guy down at the bottom of that post better be reading the sign too!
Here in central Washington I deal with rattlesnakes all the time, at least ours are small ones (20-30") but I have seen a few that went 42+" here and there. My first impulse is look and see how big they are... then stomp the head. 10" logger boots help, been hit at the ankle area more than a few times.
We get a very limited few rattlers here, mostly Copperheads I did kill a almost 6' rattler in 1982 that hitchhiked on a junker Deere dozer from Mid MO Ozarks to our yard at OFallon MO. Have a few people I knew over the years that were Herpetologists they collected venom for use by medical institutes. One had Black Momba's and his last 'Incident' was almost his last ever as he was feeding one it hit him, damn near lost his hand, could have died, ended up done with that BS!! Sold all and those that would not sell he destroyed.
Not much left after gutting the cab, strip the doors next. But as usual I have changed plans-I will use the entire frame and running gear from the Freightliner C.O.E. I bought. The steering and clutch linkage are some small problems to work out. But I want the later steering axle and front suspension. I pretty much have the front frame horn issue worked out to accept the B model radiator for correct height. Plus I'm going to mount the cab back 12", I'm having a new hood rolled anyway so why not make {probably the only long hood B75}. The fender extensions used on the stock B75 are easy to lengthen. Plus I will have more engine room. There will be no external air cleaners, I'm going to install KW steps so the right step will incorporate a slender air filter for a late DD15, all hidden away. The sides of the hood will not have the traditional Mack stainless slats but instead a full length 10" wide stainless piece with only Mack B75 and the rest louvers down the sides. The top of the hood will have stainless panels loaded with louvers also. I will install nut- serts and make three brackets for a custom 12" visor. Top cab lights only no air horn. The mirror brackets will be cut from stainless sheet and be flat bars no round tubing. Electric wipers and possibly tilt steering. I would remove the vent windows from the doors and make them one piece glass but the vent windows set at a angle. As soon as I gut the doors the cab and doors will go to the soda blaster. Truck Shop
You were right RZ I built my own fairlead, Zacklift wanted $1,200 for one I built this one for $210 in parts. Truck Shop
I'm going to like watching this build of the B-75!
Myself as well!! Very ingenious as to lengthening the nose. Very solid old cab.
Ga medium.
Timber rattler... My other half grew up in Mississippi near Biloxi and recognized it right off the bat. She said between snakes, armadillos, and snapping turtles, things were interesting in the back 40. Plus throw in an occasional alligator...
We got out east today for the heck of it, got as far south as Kahlotus, Maybe in 2 weeks or so we might come down your way for a visit.
We are between I 20 and I 16 close to the Savannah River. Hardly any roads going anywhere but North, South or back. Be glad to make ya'll a stake and potatoes or go out.
If I ever get THAT far south... I will look you up for sure.
I see I miss understood some posts. If I ever get THAT far North East again I might give you a shout. Good Day!
Now I know why I like living where the ground is covered with that white stuff close to half the year, those snakes don't like it!
Kinda curious TS, as to building strength in the extended nose, are you going to sub frame the cab structure and isolate(air ride) mount the cab? I am well aware how flexible the Freightliner frame can be.
The stock fender extensions from cowl to fender will be lengthened and stiffeners added plus I will make those out of 14G. No air ride cab. Truck Shop
Could be all too simple to establish!! Poke!
Picked up the cab and doors from the soda blaster to day and delivered those plus the fenders to the body repair guy. Which is where those parts will be for several months. Truck Shop
Hate you missed this weekend. Bring your own bottle. Grits, collard greens, black eyed peas and fresh catch. Snake stakes or stew.
I worked on a drilling site 6 years ago welding casing, we had 940' of 40' joints laid out on skids so we could roll it to the rig and pull the lift block to it. We had snakes under the pipe, we had snakes in the pipe, we had snakes everywhere. It was really exciting to be holding the tagline on a pipe lift and have a snake slide out of the pipe onto your feet. When we finished the well and set the pump we set the electrical panel to run it all, the electricians opened the panel... more snakes. And if we didn't see snakes,it was huge yellow/black wasps with a bad attitude.
Oh hell no. I don’t like them. There’s only one kind of snake I’m interested in. DEAD
We had lots of dead snakes on that job. Weird electrician would snare them with a piece of 3/8' conduit with 14 gauge wire looped through it and turn them loose. we killed them when he wasn't looking.
Guys like that aren’t right in the head. I can let a black snake pass by. That’s it. I go full on mental when I get startled by one. Whatever I’m holding becomes a weapon. I’ll beat the **** out of it, me, whatever it’s in/on. My buddy Tocci, the Mack nut, is TERRIFIED of snakes. I bungee cord thrown at the right time will put him into cardiac arrest. We’ve waited until winter to look at trucks in snake county!
As long as it's not poisonous, I don't mind. Seem like all I find is copperheads, cottonmouths, timber rattlers, and diamondbacks.
One snake doesn't bother me too much. I worked a job in '79 where we were ripping a trench through basalt rock with D9's, I was grade checking when one machine rolled up a big slab with a ball of rattlesnakes underneath. That got interesting.
When warm they can move pretty quick!! The old cab looks good, a little old bondo showing at the back corner but still solid, cannot wait to see it dressed out. You going to keep the OE Green interior color?
No the cab will painted a bronze color inside and out the fenders a fire red. Both the soda blaster and body shop guys remarked that the cab and doors were in remarkable shape compared to most old vehicles. The doors were in damn near perfect shape. Truck Shop
If you look at the stock fender extension {between cab and fender} in the photo below and add 12" in extra length you can get an idea of how long the nose will be when it's done. And those I decided to make out of polished stainless, it will make them much stronger. Truck Shop
You’ve done the parts I’m good at. Procuring the project truck and tear down. It’s after that I tend to get sidetracked....lol
Very cool looking project and truck! Thanks for sharing and look forward to the future.
Nice choice for a project wagon. Wish could find one as clean and buildable around here but most have been mashed then filled in crushed again then allowed for the salt cancer to take over.
A little progress, got the radiator clean and the top/bottom tanks and sides polished. Hand cut the the one piece tank gaskets and heli-coiled all the threads. Got to send the fill cap off for re-chroming. Truck Shop
WOW.
Amazing work. I don’t have the patience for polishing or the desire to pay somebody lol
SWEET!! That will hurt oncoming traffic eyes on a clear day!!
Is that whole shroud getting chromed? They do look nice just don't tailgate me when I'm riding my Sportster!
OK Gotta ask, what are the perforated plates for!!!!
The radiator tanks, side support piece's and headlight doors on a B73 or B75 are all cast aluminum and fairly easy to polish. It was covered in three layers of paint, I sanded that off with 220 then went over it with 400 then 800 to finish and hand polished with Mothers. It will get a finish polish with a buffer wheel and compound. Those are landing gear side support wings and brackets, we keep a spare set around. Truck Shop
Going to seal the radiator aluminum with Clear Coat or leave it just polished?
Next motorcycle engine I work on I think I will ship the cases to Truck Shop for the polishing!
Sometimes when sanding aluminum surface pits will show up that weren't there, especially on older castings. Had some surface on the side supports, best thing to do is just stop sand it with 800 and live with it. And remember nothing is perfect anyway. Truck Shop
That Is going to be a sharp looking B model! I like the idea of setting it on the Freightliner chassis ;that has got the wheels in my head turning about my B61 restoration. Now I wish I was setting my cab onto an R chassis! Oh well Probably only drive it for short runs anyways. I am watching and learning (and likely borrowing ideas!) I am just starting to gut the replacement cab I have,those earlier pics of your cab and doors back from the soda blasters inspired me to get back to work so thank you for the inspiration!
Been working on the internal door parts, registers, crank gear and door latches-those parts are all cleaned lubed and ready to go. Rebuilt the door hinges the pins were either froze or broken. Disassembled the wing vents removed glass and seals, cleaned those up and having tinted glass cut and installed along with tinted side windows. Bought a 12 volt wiper motor for a 53 chevy that I can modify to my wiper arms. Taking the outside door handles and bull dog/radiator cap to the chrome shop this Friday. Cut the back out of the B61 cab I had, took it to the body guy to repair the B75 cab plus cleaned all the small cab parts and pieces for painting. Besides lengthening the nose- hood and fenders forward one foot I decided to also raise the whole nose and cab 2". A person will barely notice it but it will give a bunch more room under the cab and hood. Plus I'm not trying to build a low rider or using that silly term {slammed} type of a rig. If anything a person could actually use this truck when I'm done. Truck Shop
Glad to see you back around with an update. was worried I might have to drive down there and hunt you down.
i like the 12 v wiper motor idea! Since I just set up my B61 neg ground 12 volt new delco m39 starter new wire harness..I thinkI will do away with air wipers too! Question: do I need to find specifically a 53 Chevy 12v wiper motor? Or are there other types that are easily modified to work? Thank you again Truck Shop for another idea to "borrow"!
IIRC GM didn't come out with the 12 volt system until 1955. Jim
My '54 Olds was 12v factory. Know of at least Caddy, Olds and Buick using 12v from 1953, IIRC saw a 1953 GMC 630(?) with 12v system.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/YOT9510-19...tem281c029b64&_nkw=electric+wiper+motor&rt=nc
This one here is the kit I used {YOT9511} with few modifications it will mount right up to the air/pivot arm and bracket. https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Electr...m=182144919423&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
One reason projects like this one end up abandoned so many times is when people find out what the costs are to properly re-build a vehicle. Just having stainless re-finished or chrome plating done can run some money. To have the original solid brass radiator fill cap with the solid brass bull dog re-chromed {$500 bucks}. That's why so many rigs end up half torn apart/parts lost and enthusiasm gone. Mastercraft Chrome plating in Seattle is the shop doing the work for me, I'm sure it will look like new. The chroming solutions and waste removal have gotten very expensive for plating shops so many went out of business. Truck Shop
Brothers did cars, old Pontiacs, was not unreasonable for them to tag up to $30,000 in a restoration in them. I avoided that as best I could, just have my old rusting iron to deal with these days.
Another reason the restoration projects get abandoned (in my case) is going In too many different directions. In the year and a half since I began My B61 resto I have acquired a B42, and a 56 Autocar ;I guess it is the thrill of the hunt I like and the initial purchase price is usually about as much as it is to rechrome a rad cap!
Not to get too far OT here but I agree making a project look pretty can get expensive fast. An example on a much smaller scale is the XS650 Yamaha I am slowly working on, slowly and working on are key words here! Bought bike back in 2008, I did say slowly right?, for all of $75.00. Ordered new wiring harness, some brake seal kits, carb kits and other odds and ends for $207. At this point I have had bike running with the addition of a few part I had laying around. Now if I wanted to make this bike look nice it would need a complete new exhaust system just that one additional item would push the cost another $500.+. And I would not even want to know what a good paint job of the "tins" would cost. That is why I am leaning towards the "Barn Find" look, just a good soap and water scrubbing and only replace more or less "safety related" parts like the dry rotted tires. I thoroughly enjoy seeing the out come of a project like this B75!
Had myself a XS 'Special' 650 Yamaha in 1977, always put my hands and feet to sleep, traded it for a 78 XS850 then in 81 traded up again to an XS1100(BAD choice). That 1100 was BADASS and would go 'on the pipe' like a two stroke around 4500rpm, when lit up would scream to 10k and stand up on the rear tire, found that out the first day, first ride from the first traffic light take off not 5 miles on it. Scared the PEEWADDINS out of my sorry little butt!!
Every project (of this type) that I've completed has always managed to exceed an unlimited budget. It's just how it works I think.
had a run in with a 750 norton like that
The miscalculated build expense is what kills most rebuilds. Most of it in body parts and body work. Figure body work 6 to 7,000 interior parts 5,000 special metal work 2,500. The main thing is knowing where the parts are for a low cost. In my case the running gear, steering box, engine/ transmission and rear drives cost 700. But this is my last rig I will build in my life and I plan to take it to shows when I retire. And by building a stretch hood B75 I think it will be the only one on the planet, I always have to be different so I've been told. And it won't reside on the east coast. Truck Shop
And because this thread has taken a short twist for motorcycles I will talk about a major incident that happened to me in 1982. I have owned 24 cycles by the way. I was on a Yamaha Seca 750 headed over White Pass - US 12 headed west about 4 miles from Trout Lodge. I was cruising around 65 when a pickup with canape towing a two axle travel trailer past me going east. At the same time he passed by a strong side wind/gust coming off the slope on my right side combined with trailing gust from the camper. I always ride in the center of my lane so I have more real-estate to use in an instant. The gusts blew my toward the center line I was then in the left tire track for cars heading into a right hand corner/turn. A chevy citation came around the corner headed east a two feet over the center line.------------------------I made contact dead center of the left headlight. The car was one year old, my bike one year old both totaled. The impact was so hard it diamond the body on the car, ripped the left front drive wheel and strut off. The front forks and wheel on my bike were even with the rear wheel, it opened the crank case so you could see the crank and rods. My helmet hit the windshield corner post dead center, my shoulder went into the windshield. My left leg and foot got caught between the bike and fender, shredded my leg and my foot, the toes on my left foot are fused at the joints/ my toes were separated about 2 1/2" at the time it happened. The only reason I didn't loose my left foot was because I was wearing a pair of White's Elk Hide Packers. White boots are tough *** Sons O B!tches. My pony soldier leather jacket/gloves took the rest because it pitched me another 30" rolling and tumbling before I landed in the ditch on the right. The helmet was ground down to the third layer of fiberglass on both sides and cracked down the middle. It was a BELL made on a Wednesday for sure. I sold my last bike a GL1800 Wing 2005 model over four years ago, I owned three Wings. So when I see people ridding without proper gear it makes me cringe. What a dumb *** they are. I had nightmares for almost 10 years after that crash-I would wake up in a cold sweat just before I made contact for the 500th time over and over again. Michael Paul Flake
I did`nt lose the norton managed to get it stopped safely but so damn close i never rode it again . i cranked the throttle a little to hard when i went to 3rd gear and it literely ran out from under me. decided that was to much cycle for me . my brother inlaw survived a wreck similar to yours in va beach va some years ago car made a left turn in front of him his bike was a harly 74 which took the whole left front end off a67 mercury station wagon he went through the windsheild knocked over both seats and landed against the tailgate inside the car. ok i`m done with motorcycles
I kept the 1100 until '87, had just over 40,000 miles on it then, was a great bike for distance but crap for local as got really HOT running slow. Got hurt in 87, just could not keep it so sold it to a co-worker of the wife's, he had it until he could no longer get parts fast enough to keep it going and sold it. I had Harleys back then too, my 'Bar' bikes, had one EVIL SOB 1948 W that had been modified enough was a Frankenbike. Panhead, still four speed but from a 54, suicide shifter UNDER the seat, foot clutch and hand spark advance. Had been a side car or some other oddity bike at one time, throttle on the WRONG(left) side, advance on the throttle side hand brake on the Left, bought in W. Tulsa at a guys house where had to drag the boxes from under his workbench as all was apart. Took three months to sort, clean, paint and assemble. First ride missed the orifice to feed drip oil to the final chain, almost emptied the sump in four miles, left a Skunk streak up my back on my jacket, in my hair, was dripping off the old Bell I wore. Hard starting POS, advance was tricky, then got all beered up one night, ended up cranking the advance to full and trying to kick start it in the dark. When I got my wind back was laid out in front of the bike, luck have it only sprained my ankle when back kicked me over the bars, I weighed 150# then. Bike had kicked back then popped hard went ahead and started was sitting there on enrichment almost sounded like laughing with the head lamp glow following the surges. Got sold the next week to a 'Friend' that "Had to have it", believe he still has it. Have had a few rough tumbles on rides, it is NEVER "IF" you wreck but how bad and WHEN you do, I try to keep on the ball watching for that one car or truck that has my name emblazoned on it for a target. Got older, some slower and I believe smarter, still ride while all busted up but love the feeling, will not stop until stopped or get where I cannot hold up the ride. Wil NOT have a trike.
This 41 Chief is a high compression model, you don't do things right-it will let your right leg know about it on start up Truck Shop
Well I also don't have any desire for a trike, but a sidecar is something else and one saved my right leg and maybe more about 18 years back. One Friday afternoon in June I was coming home from work, work was at the most a mile from my house, I was on the old rat bike XS650 sidecar outfit. Back off the throttle and put on right signal to turn into my drive. Just as I make the turn I seem to recall hearing something then there was a flash of green in front of my full helmet faceless. That green I come to understand was the grass on my lawn as I was tumbling on the far side of the driveway! Never sure if I was unconscious for any time but next thing I recall was a few people saying "Don't move we have help coming." As I laid there I heard conversations that explained why I had so much good help so fast. See, there was a Fire Chief's convention in Syracuse that day and a few of the attendees just happened to be heading home traveling down my road when the accident happened. I would always recommend planning an accident with trained people on the scene! As it turned out my injuries were not that bad, well I had a separated right shoulder that due to my work on heavy equipment the doctors kept me out of work for six months but other wise only minor scrapes and bruises. Piecing the various bits of information I heard that day and looking at my lawn's tire marks the next day I came to understand that the car that hit me was NOT the guy immediately, but the second car back! I learned that the car right behind me was driven by a guy who worked with my ex-wife and was familiar with the sidecar and knew I would be turning in the driveway. However the car behind him was not paying attention and when the car behind me put on his brakes to let me make the right turn that guy panicked and swerved to his right and skidded across my front lawn and then his left front wheel hit the 10 inch corrugated culvert under driveway putting a big dent in it then he made contact with my poor sidecar outfit. This guys insurance company totaled the sidecar outfit but offered it to me for a very nominal amount. As I turned out the only damage to the sidecar was a broken swing arm and wheel and major cracks in fiber glass body. Swing arm I was able to source a used one from an outfit that did upgrades on that model of sidecar and the wheel was replaced with a tire and wheel from Walmart! The lower mounts to the bike were bent but they were easy to replace with some 1 1/2 DOM tubing I had a local race car builder bend for me. The bike itself was not damaged in anyway and was used for the next 15 years to get me back and fourth to work. And yes I did check mirrors before putting on signals after that and a couple times I made the turn a bit faster than normal as cars were a bit close for comfort!
Tire changer I built especially for removing the rear tire on a Gold Wing. The Gold Wing rear tire is the hardest to mount and dismount, very tough sidewall and bead. I made this to do my own plus not damage the aluminum wheel. I liked the sticky Avon Cobra's, rear tire life was about 10 to 12,000 max. The suspension front and rear on my 2004 1800 was the high dollar Traxxion aftermarket. With that suspension it would lay right into a corner at speed it would surprise the hell out of most cafe riders. I forgot I also built a bead breaker, last photo. Truck Shop
Your bead breaker looks a lot like the Allison clutch spring compressor I built.
some quality fab.work there` along with the right kind of pickup
I had two Yamaha 650's one standard and one special plus a XS1100 and a FJ1200. One BSA 1965 model A65 650 Hornet, One 68 BSA Gold Star 650 and one 65 441 Victor. One 67 Triumph 650 TT , And one Norton 750 Dunstall. The best Brit I owned was a Royal Enfield 1967 Interceptor 750. The rest of the bikes I owned were just two stroke junkers. Three best road machines were the three wings I owned 1985, 1994, 2005. My favorite quote {I spent most of my money on trucks and motorcycles, the rest I just wasted} Truck Shop
In the early 80's iended up with a Yammy 650 special, rode it a few times and that was the end of my street bike days. Had 2 cars in Pasco make left turns in front of me and cowardice took over and I went back to big dirt bikes where I controlled my destiny rather than idiots in big cars.
You got that right, off road is what I like too, riding on the street makes me feel like I am a pedestrian in an automated warehouse to borrow from another thread.
Had a string of YZ's from 400 to 490's, but my favorite bike of all time was a Yamaha DT 400 of 1980 vintage, go anywhere including a bit of road to get you there. We explored many miles along the Snake river from Pasco to the east. In 7,000 miles it only let me down once with a broken chain a mile from home.
been watching this closely. Thought you all might get a chuckle.
My main reason or choice for rebuilding the B75 is there are not many left and I have already done KW and Pete trucks. Especially not many B73 or 75's in the Northwest. If it was a B61 I wouldn't bother with it-too small of a radiator and the nose is too short plus 61's are not hard to come by. As far as Pete or Kenworth goes for me- the Pete better be a low cab 72 or older the Kenworth better be a 1947 thru 1981. Already owned a 66 Pete 351 so don't want that. Tired of seeing chromed out PacCar's You see one with 7" stacks and stupid drop visor you've seen them all. IMO Truck Shop
Got the inner fender wells straightened and painted-lot of work in those. Bull dog/door handles are done at the chrome shop. Will run out this Saturday and tow that Freightliner back and strip it out. Get the engine on stands and drop the pan, check the cam lobes, rod and main bearings. Pull the heads and check pistons and liners. NTC 400 CPL 449. Truck Shop
Before you invest a lot of excess tear down time first look between the cam boxes for any discoloring or burnt paint, were known to spin cam bearings and eat blocks up. Should be a series of numbers passenger side of block, 1234, one will be ground away, 1 or 2 and good to go strong high nickel block, 3 or 4 may be interesting as to how bad the counterbores will be, soft blocks.
Need a tow helper?
Thanks for the info but I've long blocked over 90 and inframed more than I cared to when it comes to NTC's. This block shows no signs of cam bearing problems and the head gaskets show no signs of weeping. Who knows it might be one I long blocked for Central Engine Machine years ago. If so the deck will have my initials stamped on the rear and 20/40 liners. The truck came from the lower valley so it could have a CEM engine. Truck Shop
Well it's not that far away-Ayers Rd last left headed north to Lyons Ferry. UP has a siding at the end of that road by the river. I'm sure you know where I'm talking. Actually I'm going at 4:30 Sunday morning which will put me there at first light. I think there are more deer out there than snakes. Took Steve my friend out there last Sunday-we counted over 35 head- three four points and two three points-velvet. Long drive in the dark for not much time there. What was interesting was a tandem drive we found laying in the brush. Which I'm going to buy for scrap price. Neither he or I have ever seen such a setup. Both drives were drop in's facing each other with an odd shaft coupler-no standard U-joints going to a Detroit drop box in the center of the drives with one drive shaft from the front of the rig. Hydraulic brakes, six studs to mount the wheels all mounted on a multi 2" wide spring set up and it was a walking beam design. The drive shaft would have run along the top edge of the frame IIRC. A factory Frankenstein short of thing. It's not a military rig I don't believe because it didn't have too many interchangeable parts and would take too long to repair I will get some photos of it, maybe one of you guy's have seen one before . Truck Shop
I lo Been down to Ayer many times, east of "town" there are several irrigated Circles and some dryland wheat. James and I went up that grade loaded many a time. If a guy could still cross Lower Monumental that would make a faster trip for me. I would love to see the other mystery truck.
White made such a suspension set up for munitions trucks in WWII, buddy of mine had one a LONG time ago, parts were something else to come up with. This is under a Chevy but similar: http://oldchevytrucks.com/blog/index.php/2013/07/1946-chevrolet-2-ton-with-thornton-drive-2/ Called a Thornton Tandem.
BTW love the Indian, I see it has a drip cover under it as my old rides so did!! All the old rides with auto chain oilers or just poor gasketing were a road oiling mess.
That's what it is Dave-Thornton rear drive thanks for the info, and it seems rare. Truck Shop
Rare as Hen's teeth, got a good pick with that. Six lug would most likely be military or Dodge. White IIRC used five lug as did GM.
thats a first for me
Well if you like that Indian then you will definitely like this 41 Henderson 4 cylinder Indian. 21,000 original miles on it when I worked on it and took these photos. Ran like a fine watch it did, and I can say I've ridden a Indian 4 cylinder. Truck Shop
Wow... Just Wow.
Exactly, WOW, just WOW. Heard one run at the Wheels thru time Museum in NC, an absolute gem of a place if ever on the east coast down thru Asheville HAVE to go see. Could only wish been on a Excelsior Henderson or a true high compression Indian. https://wheelsthroughtime.com/
Read a story once about a guy that built a small airplane with a Henderson engine. He would sneak up behind motorcyclists and they would hear him and wave him on, then he would throttle up and fly over them. This was in the late 40's.
Ran out and dragged the Freightliner home early this morning- back at the shop at 7:30. Sorry RZ the batteries went dead in my camera so no pics of the crawlers and grader. Spent three hours stripping stuff to remove the cab, few more and it will be off and gone. Truck Shop
It happens.
There's nothing left of that Freightliner I towed in last Sunday morning. Cab's off and gone, engine and trans are out just rear drives, steer axle and rails left. The crank is STD, cam is in perfect shape and looking up from the bottom the liner bores are good also. I don't think this engine had more than 125,000 miles on it. So I will install upper and lower gaskets and crank seals, injector o-rings, liner crevice and o-ring sets, main and rod bearings and call it good. Truck Shop
Quite the deal for $500.
No doubt. Luck prevails and you lucked out with that. I would consider a swap from Cummins to Bendix for compressor. Never cared for the slow single cylinder build up on pressure. The damper on the crank struck a note in my old head. Is that one in the series that ballooned over time? There used to be a Tech Bulletin on micrometer checks against certain p/n's. Cannot for the life of me find that note in my files.
I too recall a spec. for the hydraulic dampers, something like clean off paint on both sides every 90º and measure and there was a spec. on how much variance. Wish I still had access to the bulletins I had in binders at the shop. While not an official Cummins bulletin here's the best I could find with a quick Google search:
I've got the spec's on the damper in a Cummins manual. That compressor will be good enough for the little work it will have to do. Yeah a Bendix 750 would be nice but it doesn't have one so it's going to run what it's got. Truck Shop
The 12509 that came with it. Truck Shop
Vibration Damper {001-052} Cummins manual Clean paint on both sides of damper in four locations 90 degrees apart Measure and record the thickness at two points at each of the four locations Measure the thickness at 0.125 from the outer lip Measure the thickness at 1.0 from the outer lip The difference between any two of the eight measurements must not exceed 0.010 But my take is that any engine with 500,000 miles on it the damper is probably toast from too many cycles of heating and cooling. I one way to tell is after running at temp for 30 minutes the damper should be quite warm, if it's cold then it's junk. Trucks that vibrate at idle so bad you cant see out the mirrors it's normally a damper that's gone bad. I replaced one on a N14 some years back-the driver said he could see backing up without the mirrors shaking for the first time in two years. Over looked item. Truck Shop
I knew of an outfit that replaced the crank in a 261B Fiat Allis scraper 3 times. Never replaced the damper until the third try. Turns out Fiat/Allis recommended replacing the damper at 4500? hours or so.
That 12509 wont be confusing enough in a Mack. You need a ten speed with 3 sticks, or an 18speed with forward and reverse on the thumb switch. Had one of those in the shop once... took me 15 minutes to figure out how to back it out.
Now that is FUNNY!
Finished stripping out the block today, deck and counter bores all in great condition. Pistons and liners in great condition also, most time will be spent on cleaning parts and exterior of block. Liners are standard. Truck Shop
Any upper bore sleeving done?
We’ve got a Mack like that. I love it when there’s a long way to back....you can haul ***. Most of our guys can’t back up slow let alone fast. In the haul truck I’ll cheat and slip into the high side and cover some ground
Yep, that's what the owner was telling me, really quick backing up to pavers.
Yeah, yeah, yeah. First one I ever saw.
No, there are no repair sleeves in the counter bores. That was actually the biggest gamble-that it would have those. Repair sleeves are bad news, a last ditch effort to save a block. One of Cummins worst ideas. Truck Shop
On the subject of Cummins engines...You know your CPL's better than I do. Got an '87 BC4 NTC 365, CPL 833. Customer wants to know how far I can uprate this thing without going inside of it, of course its Low flow cooling, I know there's a 12xx CPL that runs good. I just don't want build up a guaranteed burndown.
RZucker, don't feel bad, first and only Three stick Quadruplex Mack I set foot in I had to do a test drive, took me four tries to get it up to speed enough to do a diagnosis!! I was 20 at that time.
10% over over on the pump is about all to be on the safe side. CPL's in that range would tend to have high compression and slow timing. 101 slow. Truck Shop
I pretty much pushed them off on Cummins to do it right. The engine is old enough that who knows what kind of mutt has been created there. Seen way to many "Custom homegrown CPL's" that could melt down in the parking lot in neutral. Of course they will be back next week and want it cheaper than Cummins.
About the only thing you can do for that engine is install the next smallest button from stock setting which would 10% over fuel. To do a total re-rate will probably mean retiming the cam and possibly a piston change plus injectors and pump re-calibrated. And that's to re-rate to a 400, some of those BCIV's with small hp ratings had high compression pistons. The other problem they will have is getting Cummins to do it and finding someone in there shop that knows what's involved. Truck Shop
Most of the old BCII/III engines I saw last that were 400 horse had Lower Comp flat tops, cannot remember if the later versions got away with the crown heads, up to 350 had crown heads. Did not see any HP rates in between the two 400/350 in my career. Changing the button will gain some but the throttle shaft restrictor will also have to be adjusted to get it delivered. MORE chance of a cook off.
The BC I,II,III's were 14.1 on compression for the 350,400's. But the smaller HP engines like BC 300,315 or even 365's were 15.1 compression. The BCIV CPL 676 which is a 400 was 15.1 and some later versions of the IV's were also. IIRC Truck Shop
All I know at the moment is that I'm about to choke their driver. 26 year old "know it all" that has never driven a mechanical engine before this one. I hear this about every 3 days "It runs rough and surges and puts out white smoke when I start it" "Yeah Its an STC engine and it will surge a bit 'til the fuel pressure stabilizes" is my reply. And of course it needs more power. I'm sure the thing needs to have the overhead run through. I just ordered a case of Bullsh!t repellent from Amazon... Anybody have a review? I am just about done with these idiots worrywarting me 2-3 times a day. Now it's "can you put a 3406E in there for $5 bucks... Or "how about an N-14... Or..." Told them "Go find a BC4 or 5 @ whatever HP rating you want and I'll install it".
Been years and I still remember the twits: "Low Power" or "Needs a fuel filter" because "a Cat Passed Them" "No Power" as would NOT run 75, not geared that way, "Can I get a Truck with a Cat in it" as that would fix all woes "Was told I 'Need' a thirteen speed" instead of the 9 on the NTC290 as they could not keep 30mph loaded on a 5% grade for two miles "needs the Overhead run", had no clue what it was, was even asked to leave more throw on the injector pumps(Cummins) Then the idiots that want "A Stinger" or "Can you just put a few shims on the governor?" or the ones that heard about changing buttons where some dumbass told them a "#9 Button is what you Need" not knowing there was none such OMG I wanted a can of BS repellant SO BAD!!!
This day and age it's way easier to re-rate an electronic engine over any mechanical from years back. People just don't understand what's involved. As far as drivers go I have 60 of those id-gits to deal with and everyone of them is a mechanical wizard. Sharp as a marble they are. Set on there *** driving 550 hp with a automatic-- life is rough these days they think. But most of our drivers shut the F^(K up around me. Truck Shop
Give 'em an 8V-71NA in a GMC 9500 with no A/C and see how long they last. I did it for 290.000 miles.
I cannot EVEN imagine TS, would have to drop a hammer on one at some point! 1974 A-car, White 'Velvet Ride' tandems, old style two control RTO9513 speed, SUPER 250 in it dragging a STEEL fuel tanker. AC was a window unit hung in the rear cab window hole and a generator to run that sitting under it, would have to take a box of rags to stuff in the rust holes to get ANY heat in winter or hold any cool in summer. 10.00x22 rubber on six spoke Daytons and "Armstrong" Power steering, once moving was not bad but trying to realign a backup stood up in cab floor to two hand the steering wheel. IIRC was 166"wb and NO slider on fifth wheel.
how about this one D. a new hire called me one night at about 11 pm from florida wanting to know how to get the truck he was driving into tenth gear .after some questioning since i did`nt know him i found out he was in one of our st. trucks which only has a 6 speed auto.
I did spend some time last year at a good shop with the laptop on my western star (12.7 detroit). I was very impressed with all information available to them with the computer, and the ease of switching the settings. I think he told me he could give me the full 500 at the pedal- I think its only 500 on cruise and 470 regular, and he could reset it, but the torque curve is the same on either setting. I told him to just leave it all alone, I'll never miss the 30 hp.
When I have to haul a driver back on a tow, they always want to help hook up because they were a tow truck driver at one time. Don't want your help. Next remark is for a mechanic you really know how to drive. My reply { I just got my CDL yesterday and this is my first tow}. Truck Shop
Everyone is here tonight! Truck Shop
Then the day a fellow mechanic decided we needed to make some extra cash, take his Dad's Tractor Trailer to Arkansas and bring up a load of watermelons, could double our money!! 196? GMC Crackerbox, Tag rubber band drive tandem(Bands LONG gone), 6L71 and a 10 spd. Dragged two group 31s to it, got it started then broke the BENDIX Wedge brakes loose from the drums and pulled from the weeds behind the barn. Hooked up to a ?32'? round nose van Tandem trailer than had been sectioned down to a somewhat gondola car style trailer with swinging half doors. DID air up all the flats, put two full cases of 30wt Gallons in the bunk(no mattress) took the license plate off a pickup truck and a two axle car hauler to the old bugger fueled from a farm tank and took off(1978). Had to rubber tarp strap the doors shut as latches would just unlatch and doors open on bumps, had to stop at 50 mile intervals to top up the engine oil and check the fuel, ended up buying another case of gallons in AR. We got the melons, stacked on the floor in layers of straw, NO TARP and headed home, all the time on OLD US Highways thru MO into AR. Trailer dripped from the nose being painted with the engine oil, the spots we stopped we left snail trails from all the leaks but managed to get it down and back and sold the melons made $150 each for a hard days running, no log books, if we had gotten caught would have been locked up FOREVER!! I think we managed to hit 60 ONCE! Did NOT like it!! NEVER ONCE saw a cop EVER.
Somebody mentioned 2 stroke Detroits.
The dog and cap back from the chrome shop and some engine work done. Should finish the engine sometime in the next week. Truck Shop
Looking good Mike. The Dog is stunning.
Top deck on that block looks really good, got a real prize with that one. Damn Dog looks SHARP! Great chrome shop, are harder to find these days.
When my brother picked it up at the chrome shop in down town Seattle he called me and asked if he could have it installed on the hood of his 530 Mercedes convertible. Truck Shop
that hound is right uptown
one day i`ll bring my tomcat out to meet him
Tn This load and one more will make two....loved saying that when we were setting a 160k pound heater on the 13 axle. My other favorite was “yeah I can back in there. Can you show me where reverse is?”
Like the ears on that Bulldog! Those are the ones that used to be know to rip your ring finger off! I recall many years back when after a few guys got hurt jumping off the front of the Macks the company banned the dogs and every plant had to remove them from all company trucks. I recall one plant in Watertown NY had a wooden keg full of them. Have to kick my self for not grabbing a bunch of them back then!
Buddy of mine got a Solid Polished Brass Dog off a B series(60 or 61) in the 70's when it was going to Mexico. He still has it, uses it as a paper weight on his desk.
I have a Dog from the 50's on the top lid of my shop box, some moron modified the back legs to fit an early 80's Chevy hood ridge. It shows some copper under the chrome but no brass underneath.
Most were just cast pot metal and chromed, a few were well chromed on the better models, the solid brass one I have NOT a clue as to why it showed up. He also has a polished brass Husky off a Brockway.
I'm surprised one of you guy's didn't pickup on the obvious issue in the picture I posted yesterday of the 400. I Changed the bell housing from right hand starter to left hand starter. But I played a trick to see if anyone would catch it, everyone was talking about the dog. If you look in the photo below you will see it has the right hand flywheel installed in the left hand bell housing. Right hand bells use a 18 1/2" flywheel, left hand use a 17" flywheel. You can see that there is way too much ring gear showing in that photo, never bolt up a starter with that. The flywheel was only hanging on some long threaded dowels. Truck Shop
I didn't pay so good 'tention to that!! So going in with a 14" clutch? instead of a 15".
I just thought you were going with a push start option, no need for starter!
14" easy pedal ceramic. Engine only puts out 1200 ftlb torque, the clutch is rated at 1400 ftlb. And this flywheel has been laying in the shop for some time. Truck Shop
Good use of spare parts. Going with a p/s system off the oil pump or belt drive?
when you talk xs 650 are you saying one like this? 3 cylinder
Nope, that is an XS850, shaft drive dual overhead cams, XS650 is chain drive two cylinder single overhead cam.
coundn't member, close thou
No mine was the 1976 version Two Cylinder chain drive Norton Wannabe that vibrated so bad could not be on it for more than 30 miles as hands and feet were numb and tingling.
I guess I should have zoomed in the pic. I didn't have it long.
Finished the BC II 400 for the B75, test fired it this noon time. Ran just fine, removed the stock 42 button and installed a 32 button so it has a small amount of cackle to it. Truck Shop
it damn sure looks good, I`ve got a 840 cpl 88nt 350 hopefully will look similar very soon
D**n, You do some nice work
Sweet!! Great work TS.
Looks better than any Cummins reman I ever got on a skid.
I put a good many engines ON skids, can admit mine never looked as good. Usually Cummins Tan, DD Green or Silver, IH Blue and Mack always Gold, and Cats either the Off White Grey or Cat Yellow. Did work for a Rebuilder that used Orange on ALL to ID their product, did not stay with them long as went to extremes I did not care for. Always 10/10 cranks, Always upper counter bore inserts, cheap builds and expedient but no longevity as did NOT use Genuine parts but aftermarket. Really admire a good build and the black is a great choice. Surprised did not get a chromed Aftercooler upper shell.
Thanks everyone. DM-it would have a chrome aftercooler shell but I couldn't find one so it's black. But it does have one Cat part on it-the dip stick. Had to shorten one up because this engine came from a C.O.E. Truck Shop
I thought you might keep the long stick to stay off the fenders.
I'm tall enough to reach it over the fender, but most likely I won't put enough miles on it to ever add or change any oil. Truck Shop
RZ if you run across a 8341F Spicer auxiliary gear box and or shift tower and linkage rods let me know. I know where there is a F model but I think it's pretty loose inside. The F model is a progressive split. Truck Shop
You might let me drive it though... I could be gone a long time.
I haven't seen an auxiliary box for quite some time, but I'll keep an eye out for one.
Gone a long time, probably find you in Hermann visiting Dave then the two of you would probably head for Junkyards place. Truck Shop
I do know of a feller that’s got some old auxiliaries around. I’ll track him down and see what he’s got. You might be in luck....my 63 A-car has a fresh one in it and I’m considering a different drivetrain all together. I’ll verify what model it is. Y’all are welcome down here anytime!! As fast as you work TS my A-car would be done in no time. If you brought RZucker and we could get Miller down here we’d have it done in a week! Better than reality TV!
Would be a show!!! Zucker shows up here we are all in TROUBLE!!
Is not too expensive to freshen an old Aux box, seals, shift shaft seals and clean poppet controls, replace the sliders inspect the gear sets, they did not used to get a hell of a lot of excess wear.
Trouble? Why is that? I'll be there to pass tools and keep the cooler stocked.
There are two fridges in my shop.....in one freezer there are some mysterious mason jars with clear liquid that never freezes..... I think it would be an absolute riot if it actually happened. Whether we turned a bolt or not!
You keep the Anti freeze in the freezer to test it?
Something like that
Mmmm Mmmmm, can just taste I mean smell the trouble brewing!!!
I have been at it pretty hard for the last three months-so it's 3:15 and I think I will grab the driver and go hit some 300 yards. Truck Shop
I am a Crush Golfer, I hit the little bugger balls so hard they scream down the fairways, just cannot control WHERE and on which fairway they will alight!! Hook, Slice, straight then repeat!!! in no specific order either!
I'm the sort of golfer that gets better as drink cart goes by 'til the 9th hole... after that, well... I get better or worse.
The other thing I got lucky on with that 400 was the fan clutch. It had the typical for it's day Bendix FD-1 fan hub, no parts available totally obsolete. But I disassembled it anyway and found the friction material in very good condition. One of the o-rings in the piston area was twisted and a flat spot worn on it. So I cleaned everything up sanded the piston cup with 800 grit to make sure it was smooth went to my enormous box of NOS Cat o-rings and found two the right size. Used Super lube on them and assembled the hub. Works perfect sprayed some black on it and bolted it on the 400. I thought I would be looking at spending 300 or more. Nope just some time to do it. Dividing out the engine trans and rear drives from the cost of that Freightliner the 400 came out of. Engine 250, trans 200, rear drives 250. The total cost to make that 400 run and be reliable with the cost of buying it at $250 bucks came to a whopping $1,081.00.-------------cheap. Truck Shop
Damn straight Cheap!! Awesome bargain shopping!
Can’t beat that. As far as pasture pool.....I’m not much off the tee but my short game is pretty good. I’ve done well in a scramble if I can get at least one big hitter off the tee. My old man plays 3-4 rounds a week! Has for 15+ years. Walks, no cart.
https://images.craigslist.org/00O0O_aKGQpW4nnrh_600x450.jpg Just came across this on Craigslist Seattle , though it might be of interest of temptation. You dont see many as complete as this
Yeah that B61 has been offered on craigslist before, but it is in fairly decent shape. Truck Shop
Made another decent deal, RTO 12515-15 speed, for free well sort of. The owner wants the overheads run on his N14 in trade for gear box. I will remove the shift bar housing tomorrow and see what shape it's in, it came out of a wreck and has been setting inside covered for 25 plus years. Truck Shop
Looked that ad up, pretty pricey for a pasture queen that set for 10 years with all too many unknown conditions. Damned if you are not the luckiest as to finding deals!!!
He must live a cleaner life than me and you Miller! Haha
Saw a B61 sitting in a truck dealers yard today. I'll get pics next time I pass by. Knowing the dealer... it's going to be priced outrageously, or not for sale. (yard art) It really helps to know where the bodies are buried.
Well I don't know that my life has been a charmer, years ago the night life of shooting pool and major drinking took it's toll. I quit drinking some years ago, one day it just didn't taste that good anymore. And shooting pool makes me tired. Truck Shop
That 15 spd is in pretty good shape. Someone rebuilt it at one time and everything in the front and back sections look fairly decent. But they didn't replace the shift forks, so those will get changed and other resealing it that's about all I'm going to do to it. Truck Shop
Finished the 15spd, had to machine a 14613 rear bearing retainer to be able to install a magnetic pickup for speedometer. Parts for these older gear boxes are getting hard to find. Finished the engine also, completely wired and plumbed so when it comes time to set it in the frame, connections will go pretty fast. And I finally got the headlight buckets repaired and polished. The right one was cracked from headlight opening to fender edge the other one had a piece broke out of bottom next to radiator housing. A bunch of time in cutting and fitting a piece of 3/8 aluminum stock to repair it then carefully blending that area to match. 30 hours -maybe less time involved in those two items. Next job is remove the rear drives and tear those down and inspect. Truck Shop
If you look at page one you will see the broken spot Truck Shop
Looks great!
WOW!!
Your attention to detail is exceptional. You are a true master of your craft, Truckshop. What kind of paint do you use on the engine and transmission?
Thank you. It's nothing more than rust red primer. It actually lasts as good as anything else plus if it has a leak it's easier to spot. Truck Shop
Somebody has a wonky homemade plate on their transmission jack . I keep saying I'm going to build a bracket for the top of mine, and then I always just end up shoving it up there and ratchet strapping the transmission or rear end to the top. Mine has the two round pipe bars on the top, I think its a old walker. It may be older than I am. Still works good. I see the new ones have just a flat metal plate, and I always wondered how well that works, or if everyone just ends up putting adaptors on it.
My OTC has a flat plate with one bent flange to match most twin counter shaft transmissions. All bets are off when trying to pull something with the PTO in place or a Mack with the 3 shafts.
The one I used for years in OFallon Mo was a Walker, had several tables for it where had installed chains to hold the trannies secure or sort of. Used all fashion of cribbing under trans with PTO or odd shapes as the old Clarks and a few Spicers. We also used it when could on differentials, run them out on drive screws where could get the lip on the table behind the case flange then chain thru the yoke to kinda sorta keep it in place. We made several sets of support ears from angle iron for that app.
Yep, I try to use angle iron of a suitable dimensions to cut a cradle for the oddballs.
Actually that plate came with that transmission jack, I had to notch it for later model Eatons. Best jack I ever used, high lift-works great for rebuilding. But If it's not a twin counter shaft I really want nothing to do with it anyway. Kind of picky about the gear boxes I will work on. Truck Shop
Mine has a flat plate. I’ve made adapters for third members. It sure his handy to have around. I don’t recall what trans I did awhile back. Had to cut some wood wedges and use a strap to keep it on there.
It's been around 25 years since the last time I worked on a set of SQHD's. Removed from housings and inspected today-pretty decent shape and the ratio is 3.70 which is exactly what I wanted. The only thing the rear-rear drive needs is just a touch of preload on the side carrier bearings and the pinion seal replaced. The main reason to disassemble the front drive was to check the pinion nut on pinion drive gear, it's tight and staked. It would be totally foolish to bypass checking that nut-a typical problem with this model of rear drive. If that nut gets loose all kinds of misery happens-it can burn/bore a hole through the front housing. But other than some discoloration from old gear lube the front drive is in really good condition. The 3.70 ration will work real well with the overdrive 15 speed. About 86 to 90 mph depending on tire size. Truck Shop
Look good, no debris in the Nose Housing pocket to indicate bearing issues, not much in these to otherwise go wrong. Were just a taste light in the day. Forward unit bolted ring rear is riveted. I have worked a 100 ton shop press long and hard cold upset riveting rings in these and the old Corn Queen diffs. Still get much in as much parts for them?
But for what a SQHD was it could take a beating. The one that had trouble was the rear-rear SQHP with the long pinion. If the lube level was a tiny bit low it could roast the nose bearing. Truck Shop
Still remember the first P series we put in service in SLC UT, when they were run in severe cold and the relief would stick then blow the filter canister into eternity, of course then cooking the whole front unit, went to different weight multi viscosity lube and had pallets of front units sitting at the home office shop to send where they failed.. Was working in a quarry pit Aug.1984 trying to free a hung in two gears Euc, got told of a Brand New style KW Anteater smoking a transmission, then the cascade of fullers burning up from all the aerodyne skirting across the whole heavy truck builder list, the onrush to get coolers and external pumps adapted to them, boy those were the days.
What really killed them was engine torque spec's going higher and the transmission torque ratings lagging behind right along with clutch ratings. Then finally Eaton went to tapered bearings on the counter shafts in the back section. The old ball type couldn't stand the torque and pressure pushing the counter shafts outward. Plus higher tooth count on the gears in the front section and helical gears in the rear section. And better heat treating of gear teeth. Make me laugh-the old Cat 1693 425 HP 1400 ft lbs torque came with a RTO 9513 spd from factory. Funny thing is those old 95's took it. Truck Shop
I recall a '69 Pete COE with a 12V71 with a 9513 behind it, that was the most trouble free part of the truck.
Seen the same here Zucker, as with KT series Cummins besides. Pig Iron Express had 12V DD KW units and later 8V92s in Petes with 9513s in them pulling triples out of SLC, when they were not tipping no.3 over on the highway ramps!!
Had to be careful in the 'Olden Days' not to put mineral 90 in the Spicer single countershaft boxes as they used heavy motor oil 40 or 50wt Non Detergent, a few oddballs used Type A ATF which was Whale Oil!! then the twin shaft units that used 90 mineral or heavier weight motor oils and these days the synthetic multi vis oils as 75w90 or straight 40w not to mention the semi-autos with ATF types. Need a damn score or dance card BOOK to keep up and a inventory of dozens of products anymore if have Old School machines mixed in. What are most using in 3rd members these days, I was accustomed to the 85/140 lubes of days gone by, these are also changed as I am aware. Do the old gear boxes(Mack/Eaton/Rockwell) tolerate the new lubes very well?
Interesting question. All the trucks I worked on used 75W-90 or 75W-140 in the axles and straight 50W in the transmission. But, I don't get out much. I've worked on a lot of old machines though. Some give an SSU rating. I've found that almost any modern oil will satisfy the minimum SSU spec'd in these old machines (more than 40 years old). Many old machines used straight 30W in gear boxes and spindles. There are much better oils available today. I often switch to something like Mobilgear 630 or even DTE medium.
Was the standard for literally decades as to 40 or 50w in Spicer, 80/90 mineral in most Fuller and Eaton products, 85/140 third members or 80/120 for a select few. These days I know of so many variables due to my own machines and looking thru a few spec manuals, just could not imagine a Fuller running 50wt but they are. Old Jeeps, a few Chrysler gearboxes and a very few old HD trucks with single countershaft gearboxes used the Whale Booger as we called it. Nothing else would hold up or lubricate well enough, I do believe the Chrysler dealers still sell that specific oil for the Jeeps as no one else offers or engineered a replacement.
Eaton/Fuller has been 50wt motor oil since mid 70's, damn near everything these day's run 50wt synthetic. Eaton went to 50wt in their twin counter shaft boxes early on because on a grade the 80/90 would fling out between the front gear sets and cause galling of the limiting washers especially if the clearance was set too tight. When Eaton went to pressure lube on the front gear set and output auxiliary drive gear plus machining the main shaft with the clearance built in 50wt synthetic is the only way to go. Hold the clutch down in real cold weather on start up with 80/90. All rear drives have switched to 75/90 synthetic, but you don't want to use 75/90 in anything with brass parts it will deteriorate the brass same with the 50wt synthetic. The oil companies don't tell you that on a container and most oil distributors don't even know that but call the service line at the oil producer and they will tell you it's not a good idea to use it in old drive train with brass parts. I called Shell and it was verified. We use 75/90 in wheel ends and the new Detroit DT series auto-shift transmission uses 75/90 for lube Fact is transmissions and rear drives just last way longer with synthetic oil and run much quieter too. Truck Shop
Thanks TS Guess I am just old and too old school.
Your no more old school that me, I have been called a dinosaur more than once. Truck Shop
Scored some free parts today, three 1710 yokes for the SQHD drives and a 1710 intermediate drive shaft all parts in very good condition. Allen Chase of Hagerman truck parts/ salvage just up and gave them to me. It probably has something to do with the fact he has a AC Mack, Kenworth and old Pete collection plus a museum of old logging equipment, construction equipment and some tractors. Thanks Allen. Truck Shop
DAMN!!
Another bonus with synthetics, is that you don't stink of sulphur for 3 days after working on a gear box that used old conventional gear lube.
Back to B75 I have reached a point where most of the big items are done. Radiator, engine, gear box and rear drives completed. My next point of work will be rear axle housings/suspension and brakes. Then ready the steer axle I picked up on the cheap. FF 931 no front brakes. After those Items are finished I will order two new 29' X 10" X 5/16" frame rails from H-W Metals in Portland Ore. The frame will be the a major job but also the easiest. Truck Shop
Even as girly as my daughter is she knows the various smells....diesel fuel, fumes, gear oil and the like. Laundry day she always makes sure her clothes don’t get tossed in with mine !
Oh you smelly guy you! lol Truck Shop
If you only knew! Haha
I might try to get down that way in the next couple of weeks, Harvest is getting over up here and I should get some slow time soon. I'll be letting you know.
Can remember pulling 'Clean' work clothes out of a set fresh from laundry, still smelled of gear lube after a week of nothing but drivetrain work. Hard to get rid of that odor. What crossmembers gonna use, Frt lnr? or bulldog? Going to reuse the front frame horns off the Mack for the front sheet metal/radiator support?
That sound's good RZ, by that time I should be done with the axle housings. Started on those today-the rear drive hosing is stripped and the front won't take long to remove and strip. Lucky the drums are in pretty good shape because there odd ball in-boards, high dollar to replace. Do have to replace some bad wheel studs but that was expected. Truck Shop
One of the hardest things to find so far is some wheel studs. The left hand studs are toast couldn't find any of that type left hand anywhere in the northwest. Ended up finding what I needed from Van Horn Truck Parts in Michigan. A good Meritor-Euclid-BWP-NWRA and Conmet number but none around here. R006023 R/L. Way it goes working on old stuff. Truck Shop
Found this link for Bulldog numbers, seems that old 75 was in a very limited run. I have a BIG soft spot for the L(T,J,M) series Macks and they are fewer still. Goes to a download pdf https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=10&ved=2ahUKEwjEy8u4r4PeAhVhxoMKHQBCAHEQFjAJegQIAhAC&url=https://www.macktrucks.com/-/media/files/museum/model-production-numbers-1905-2000.pdf?la=en&hash=420950B1E419064F74D7579DC492EF7241F9C63E&usg=AOvVaw2oi62QU7g2PPz4UlkuZb6Q
Interesting on the studs, should have been a really common Old style cannot imagine inventories are that low but have been wrong before.
Thanks for sharing with pictures! It is really looking good!
That is because nobody keeps anything anymore. If X amount is not sold in six months it is not restocked. If it has been on the shelf a year or two through it in the dumpster and wright it off inventory for corporate. If they still have it they cannot find it. That is because the smaller companies are being sucked up. The people with much experience are being pushed out. They can hire three newbees for the same money. Our problem with that is all three of them put together do not know a third as much as who they replaced. There are some good young people out there but dealing with the big corporations can be a reason for early retirement.
Rear drive housings housings are done and repainted, replaced shoes, hardware, s-cam bushings, slacks and installed four 3030 brake cans. Had the drums turned, wasn't much wear on them so just made sure those were straight and round. No pics though, I cell wrapped them put them on a pallet covered with a tarp for winter. Now to remove the steer axle springs and hangers and front frame horns, last parts of the Freightliner left. I'm going to use some sections of the 9" Freightliner frame for crossmembers and gussets. Truck Shop
Darn near finished with the suspension parts as far as clean up and repaint, have all the bushings coming next week to install. Picked up the front axle today at the salvage yard, went to pay and was told that item was free also courtesy of Allan Chase of Hagerman Truck Salvage. I have been damn lucky so far on the parts end of things. Truck Shop
Good friends in close businesses will generally be even better friends at the best times. Great to hear you are doing as well as are on the build!!
Finishing up the last of the rear suspension-disassembling the four rear spring packs and buffing the rust off each leaf. Coating with rust fix and painting them all separate. It's a bunch of work but it's the only way to do it otherwise those springs will just bleed rust, Have two spring packs done and will do the same with the ones on the steer axle. Hopefully I will order frame rail material at the end of December. Truck Shop
If you paint each leaf what will happen? My guess would be that they will tear a lot of the paint off when they flex. Possibly also causing the ubolts to need torquing frequently. I realize this is not a work truck but just wondering what the expected outcome of paint among the leaves would be.
Actually nothing will happen, the ends will scuff some but that's expected. Iv'e done this before with springs and no issues, the paint is just a thin coat to keep them looking decent with out rust trails. If you paint only the out sides every time you wash the rig rust trails will appear and that looks like hell on a rig like this one. And the u-bolts will stay tight. But it's a good question BV. Truck Shop
Nobody has suggested bedliner yet??
Ford and Fruehauf for years used a semi resilient coating that never got less than tacky years ago. Not really a paint or a polymer but a self-sealing sticky mess that was applied to each leaf before assembly into a pack, most often on the old taper leaf assemblies. From what I witnessed of it lasted around four or five years on nasty road conditions. Local spring shop does paint each leaf or at least dips them in a priming agent prior to assembly then paints each stack completely afterward. Springs do scuff as they flex but is not all that much generally. I did Not paint my springs, did knock the scale and loose rust from the leaves prior to reassembly, no need as this is NOT a show machine. I applaud your attention to details TS.
Question/getting your thoughts. I'm looking to install a Intellitronix universal digital gauge system, It will cut down on wiring totally programmable and I can use a GPS speedo-even less crap. The wiring harness I have already figured out and it will work great with this gauge pack. I will just have two separate gauges, one air with primary and secondary built in and a trans temp gauge. The only other would maybe be a boost gauge for the hell of it. What do you guys think? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intellitro...21951649?epid=20017010601&hash=item48b1e0e6a1 Truck Shop
Quite an interesting idea. It's too bad they don't have the option of the air gauges. On another note... You don't need 36 different gauges like the hay haulers have and don't watch? I got in a truck the other day and couldn't find the oil pressure gauge. But they all had cute chrome bezel covers with eyebrows. What a bunch of distracting crap, "James", my old GMC 9500 had the bare bones gauge package that was easy to monitor and did the job just fine.
Less gauges and more functional gauges I am good with. This set up sounds great to me! The old Pete I was running has a dozen gauges for optional aspects but less than half actually worked as too costly to keep up.
that gps speedo just rang my bell, been fighting a speedo setup which is not acting right ,i have some pretty radical gears to deal with one of those might just solve my problem, not all that expensive either
I guess I just like the look of the old style gauges. I'm sure that can be hard to find ones that work or fix them so they will work, but to me that's part of the appeal of the old truck. And Rzucker- my feelings are kind of hurt. My western star has the eyebrow covers on all the gauges (I didn't put them on, but I haven't taken them off either). And its got a whole pile of dials. I was a little confused when I first got it, I felt like I was staring at a airplane cockpit. The old ford 9000 didn't have all that stuff- I was just looking for oil pressure and temp. Voltage? I don't need no stinking voltage, I drive in the daylight, and if you got a detroit turning, you don't need any stinking voltage. Turnsignals? I know where I'm going.... Air brake application? Like I need a gauge to tell me my foot is on the brake. Air suspension? I don't know I'm loaded? Fuel Pressure? As long as its running I probably have fuel pressure.
How can a panel like this be wrong? Can you even get the good SW gauges anymore, or are they all cheap chinese junk now? If you have to go aftermarket, they make some pretty nice new stuff that at least looks old?
I enjoyed having a suspension load indication on the dump set up, wish it had the trailer gauge IN the cab but had to get out and look, all the others were pretty well DED dead trans, diff oil temps never worked, never paid any mind to brake application but stayed attentive when the air brake supplies moved too much too often. Voltmeter is enough did not need a Ammeter, quite a few others had little benefit. And Pete's twin fuel gauges with that bastardized split vale control under the cab instead of a cross over and a single gauge never did make any sense.
It is not authentic without a cable drive speedometer that bounces up and down by 10 so you don't really know how fast it is going.
All this talk about gauges and the picture of the B-Model dash reminded me of a Mack Service Bulletin that came out shortly after the B-Models were phased out. Seems some drivers could not find the high beam indicator in the dash. they were used to the red light between the fuel gauge and the oil pressure gauge in Crane Operators post above. Seems some one decided to put a blue light behind the bulldog near the bottom of the speedometer and use that for a high beam indicator! And that reminded me of the time one plant in our area had a nice new R model that after having it for a year I had to show them where the washer fluid went. They could not believe the washer tank was in the passenger door! I guess no one ever thought to look at that book in the glove box!
I'm sure that can be programmed into the electronic dash.
Actually crane operator there is nothing wrong with the old style gauges. The only thing about this rig of mine that will be Mack is the cab, radiator and sheet metal. The fact that I'm extending the hood out 14" will more than likely make it the only long hood B model ever. My question wasn't really about the look of old gauges but rather functionality. But when it's done It will be truly one of a kind, not like most generic rigs. One stack, one air cleaner and one chrome Luberfiner oil filter housing. I like the unbalance of those items. Turbo is 5" exhaust so who needs two stacks. I'm just wondering about shock and some vibration creating issues with electronic dash. Truck Shop
You won't mind if I pull a Truck Shop level ten inspection on your trucks will you. lol Truck Shop
That's not even funny, not even a little bit, - well maybe a little bit, but don't wish that on me.
Well you should at least jack the radiator cap and take a look under there . Truck Shop
Don't worry... He cant write tickets.
But I betcha he knows those that CAN!! Old Pete I was driving is currently OOS until the owner gets a write up from a mechanic as to viable or not. I noted rust build up deforming the upper frame flanges under the 5th wheel slider plate, the plate itself was deforming upward and enough could not get it to slide to full back for use on a Bullrack. The STL DOT is Supposed to have ALSO seen that and decided he has 30 days(a week or so ago) to get it to a shop and have evaluated after which the report goes to States Brown Shirts. Upper flanges were depressed around a quarter inch at center of the corroded region, the slider plate up close to the same.
This is why I prefer single frame rails on a truck. A good 3/8" 120K rail is much better than rusty double rails.
Everyone of our Freightliners have 7/16 rail, It's the one thing that has really made them a good rig for us. No sway back with tag axle hauling 100K. They even ride better than most rigs.
But I might!--I have been told if I was a WSP-DOT I would have to wear a bullet proof vest. Hang-em High. Truck Shop
I knew I shouldn't have gone spouting off about gauges. It turned a little cold and snowy here, so I had to hustle and get the Pete that's grown roots in one of my shop bays booted out the door, so I can have the cranes we need tomorrow inside. Wouldn't you know it, the only gauges that work in the stupid thing is the air pressure and oil pressure. I don't think anything else even wiggled. I didn't run it long enough to see if water temp came up, but no tach, no speedo, no voltage, no nuthin. If you come over and write anything up- you're fixing it!
Oh no inspectors never get dirty, I strictly write tickets and oversee things you know like the sheriff of Nottingham. Truck Shop
Mike, I have a guy looking for old Mack rear parts, You still have the rears from the B75? give me a call tomorrow.
Making smoke is progress!!
Add some more of those chrome thingys and see if that helps. Seriously, I would check grounds and the ECM feeds for loose/bad connections.
ECM? ECM? The white pete is a 1992, with a 3406B, I hope ECM isn't in its vocabulary. Or is there some sort of cab module that controls the gauge package?
Those old systems with sensor drives would occasionally fail to work in the cold. Had basically Hall Effect generators that with a little age, oil and other contaminates would cease functioning. 1992 should not be cable drive in the dash as to speedo or tach.
Everyone of our Freightliners have 7/16 rail, It's the one thing that has really made them a good rig for us. No sway back with tag axle hauling 100K. They even ride better than most rigs. Can still remember the old COE Freightliners from 1975/6/7 that had such weak backs we would bet newbies they could not stand on the rails and keep both feet planted thru five gears. Won a LOT of $20's that way, most were hanging to the stack brace on their butts when came to a stop. Those old wagons flexed like rubber! Ugly as to cracking cross members and gussets. Re-railed quite a few where Freightliner had a bad load of heat treated rails get loose, would crack aside the shift tower mount or right rear engine mount, believe those were mainly 1976 units.
Sometimes a overcharging alternator will cause gauges to act up especially the tack and speedo.--I see an out of service issue on that Pete. Truck Shop
Always a optimist aren't you . Junkyard says six turning and four burning- heck I got 6 pistons moving, and if the back brakes are as rusted up as I think they probably are, I can work on the four burning....
Oops I didn't realize it was an elderly Pete. Check the ground cable on the left front cab mount and the electric gauge feed power.
There’s an image!
Image? - shoot I'm going for the full sensory experience- imagine the smell. Speaking of images, I'm tired of reading about work getting done on this mack- I want to see some pictures. Big dog - big dog - big dog - I WANNA SEE THE BIG DOG!
It's just a pile of painted parts and pieces right now. So you will have to return to imagining the possibilities of what it looks like. When I start on the frame and install some running gear then their will be pics. Truck Shop
Hit pretty close to a sort of midway point today. Finished stripping out the remainder of the Freightliner I bought for a parts rig, that old girl is history. I just need to clean and re-bush, paint the front springs, rear hangers plus front frame horns. I have finished the front axle with pins and tie rod ends plus painted. The hubs are new style Conmet aluminum which I'm converting to stud pilot, we had several of them laying around from tag axles. It won't be long before I order frame rail, but I need to build some crossmembers first. Once I have rail assembling will start. Truck Shop
Maybe I need to schedule some time off when the frame rails show up......
Three amigos and a mag drill ?
Sounds like heaven to me!
Bridge Reamers are you friend!!
And a big azz Milwaukee drill.
USED to have a full set, 5/8, 1/2, 3/4 but as of my final days working as a mechanic full time(23 years back) I sold them to another that did just as I. Can buy more just have not found a need for my personal uses. Did replace my failed Simpson meter, found on fleabay for $89.
I just got a new set from 1/2 to 3/4", these have left hand spiral flutes so they aren't so "grabby". I really like them, got them through my Barnes/Class 3 supplier guy... I didn't even ask what the price was after I used them.
I never asked price as too much ease to use and necessity for speed in many cases, just charged a little more to a few jobs to cover the expense. Tight Spirals start easier than the old almost straight fluted ones. My old set were very slow twist and you had best have a good grip or watch the drill trill to eat itself. Quick spirals feed really well on their own as well.
I use the spiral flute reamers more than my mag drills. They are so handy and easy to use. I do run them with a cordless drill, it’s a lot more forgiving.
Oh NO Cheating now, have to use the multi-reduction heavy gear drive will wind up for a week drill motors for these!!! We had one in my first shop that instead of a short pipe handle had a four foot pipe sticking out with a girdle to keep from exploding the motor case, kept a few smaller guys from playing loop t lou on the drill!!
I use car reamers, pretty much all I have used for years. But some holes I will use a mag drill on, several 1" on the front frame horns plus my arthritis would like a brake. Truck Shop
Mine too TS, Mine too!!
Hey TS...need some closer to period correct emergency warning devices? I have three pristine sets.
I have a set of these too... somewhere. Also had a set of Dietz kerosene lamps from a '38 Ford truck, big wing bolt on the top of the stack of three pots kept them together. sold that bunch for $100 ten years back.
My inventory changes constantly so check back often lol Knowing him he’s got all kinds of stuff stashed away....
There was a set of those in the B61 I bought for parts, not as good of shape though. Truck Shop
PM me an address and I’ll send you a set if you’d like.
That or I’ll get it from somebody else and they’ll just show up......I reckon I know two places to get it. As famous as you are I could probably address the box “Truck Shop” “Washington” And it would make it there lol
Hardly famous or anything else for that matter. Truck Shop
You get those rails in and align some time for set up need to drop us all a line, I don't but JY does have to schedule a little Vacation time and we could belt that FrankenDog out to mobile in around a week!!
Maybe just a little notoriety?
Yeah I was a notorious jacka$$ when I lived in Eburg. Truck Shop
Well, I was thinking more along the lines of all the pics of the 2 of us that have been posted on this site. Giving the redhead the phone could be a bad thing... maybe. But we have never seen goats.
I leased a Kenworth with a 3408 that had been ordered originally with SQHPs. The owner knew they were light and I knew they were light However long story short pulling about 125,000 up a 6 or 7 percent hill in third at about 1850 the through shaft failed where it was punched for oil flow the resulting side load ripped the carrier out of the housing at the bolt pattern and deposited the rear end neatly next to the tractor. Cue the SSs
I liked SQHPs and SQ100s for Road duty general trucking, did NOT work well as to anything oversize or overweight. SSHDs were pretty monstrous pots but nowhere near to the old Planetary Eatons we had at the Quarries. Believe they were the predecessor to the DS/RS Series.
3-4 spiral flute core drills are made to enlarge holes Core drills do not 'grab and twist' like standard twist drills. I've enlarged TD20 sprocket segment bolt holes that were built up with nickle 55 (tough) to 1 1/2" diameter using Snap-on 1/2" air drill. https://www.icscuttingtools.com/catalog/page_089.pdf DRILLS LIKE RUNNING A REAMER
I know that this is Truck Shops thread here but I wanted to share a development on my Mack B61 restoration. I got an old Mack that had been taken out of service because a tree top blew onto and crushed the cab, the mechanicals all intact it has sat idle for 35years. Mice moved way into the top end so pulled the head de gunked the valve seats rockers and push rods were coated in a taffy of mouse waste. Cleaned all that up and fresh injectors upper gaskets, new windings and armatures in the starter/gen,12 volt solenoid. Last week I figured it was time to crank the N/A 673 for the first time and I was excited for the event! As soon as all six cylinders fired I had a run away! ( oh boy) I was prepared for this possibity as I kept a 12 inch lumber scrap within reach and I used it to block the air in and snuff it back out before it got too far away! Turns out I was fooled by the lever movement on the pump seemed to move back and forth as it should; but when I took the cover off the inj. Pump the rack is jammed in the wide open position and the lever only actually moves the rack 1/8th of an inch or so. For me it is one step forward and one step back on it goes. Again I hope not to ruffle feather by posting this here I just wanted to keep this thread going and just share an experience with an old Mack truck
I recently overhauled an IHC that all the injector cores were rejected. All the yuck on top of the head had eaten the return line fittings off of them. It had been parked with the engine shut down handle pulled out and would not start. Found the rack shaft stuck in the no fuel position after removing the side cover. Finely freed it up with brake cleaner and tapping on what I could with a long soft punch. Then went back to penitrating oil and working the linkage. Installed the side cover and started it. Still running fine today.
Too bad on that old B model, looked to be a pretty solid truck before the tree got to it. Hope you can get some good parts off it.
Here are a few pics from when i started to tear into it.. I have since had all springs done added a leaf in the fronts. Chasis has been blasted & primed and painted w/Imron fresh wheel bearings , air brakes gone thru, parking brake shoes relined. I need to take pics of it now as i have no new pics.
Yes Kshansen i keep telling myself i'm restoring a parts truck!! At times it seems like a lost cause but it keeps me out of trouble.
Would hate to know how many of those old B models the company I worked for sold for scrap metal prices or less over the years. And those were all trucks that never saw over the road work, just running around in quarries as stock trucks so no road salt. I had a chance to get what may have been a B42 for free. All I recall was it had a small flat head gas engine and a five speed transmission. But I had no place to store it and too much else going on in my life at that time.
Could have bought a B series St Louis Gas engine fire truck in 1977, $1200 running driving and in AWESOME shape but chose not to as no place to store. The mechanic that DID buy it drives it in parades, converted to a Thermodyne Diesel for easier maintenance he bought for $450. Has almost $3500 in it!!! Clean old machine and shines like a dime in a Goats Behind.
I couldn't stay away form this---{That's {Ruby in a Goats ***}
Well i got this cab off an old B42 . I've been patching in the floor with 18 gauge sheet metal. Getting cab hood and fenders ready to send down to be sandblasted at the end of this month.
Looks as almost had floor in it, typical E Coast even Midwest salt/dirt/less than tended cancer.
Got a pic of this old critter today. In a truck sales lot in Central Washington.
Somebody’s been giving her some love
Wow where is the snow in Central Washington? I see that B has A big round aluminum fuel tank interesting I would have thought it would not fit.
Looks to be a Ford tank on it. Nice looking B, is that little trailer attached to it?
No, the trailer is just parked behind the B. Gonna try to get some info on the old girl this week. Maybe get some more pics including the interior. I didn't get a pic from the rear, but it looks like the cab has been butchered for a sleeper or?
This is the desert portion of Washington. We had 2-3" of snow last week and a Chinook wind made quick work of that. Last year at this time we had a whopping 8" for about a week. We will probably see some bitter dry cold in the next month or so. It can get down to 15 to 20 below for awhile.
May actually be a later bulldog tank IIRC, just not pertinent to the year of that B. Thanks prior for more photos!! I am curious and as to what power train in it. The wheels show to be 20 or22" budds, definite tube type.
I assumed PAC. NW was covered in snow until may! Then again 18 or so years ago I was in Couer'd Alene in mid Feb and it was 50deg F. And dry.
I'm really not sure if I want to get too close to it. I would hate to go home with a Bulldog clamped on my butt.
You and TS could Race to the Finish with a running Driver Show truck!!!!
That's a nice one. And check out that fuel tank.
I stand corrected Most Bs here were a round saddle no cut in step or the rectangular versions Seems a lot of variations I have not met
Frame rails are two weeks away and finishing up the last two crossmembers. Converted a set of late model ConMet aluminum hubs from a drop axle that were hub pilot to stud pilot for the steer axle so it matches the rears. And in the process of converting some hub pilot wheels I have to stud pilot using a shell reamer in a Bridgeport mill. I rounded up eight fairly decent runout drive tires but I will buy two run of the mill steer tires. insides on the drives will be steel wheels. And made a good deal on a clutch. Amazon had a IATCO cast cover two plate 14"X 2" eight spring easy pedal 1400 ft lb torque rating clutch brand new for $228.00 with free shipping. Plus I had $44.00 in reward bucks applied and after tax the total was $203.00
Not a bad deal on the clutch, I just got a 1600 ft lb 10 spring 15.5 from Unique for 440? I think.
Watch your pennies and nickels....the dollars will take care of themselves
BTW TS love the old L series shots, scarce as hens teeth and darned near to non-existent here. Would DEARLY love a LT or LJ Bulldog. Stylin'!!
I kind of have an affinity for the L's with the "B" nose.
I'd take Either
Very true. I would like one of those Big B models with the flat fenders B81-83? Could make a nice home for a 12V71.