Ive got a 1960s dozer....either a D7 or a D7E....no serial number plate....and the left rear serial number is covered up by a Hyster winch....so until I can remove the winch...Im not sure of the serial number. Heres what happened.....I had a U joint bolt come loose for some crazy reason....the U joint came out....and the drive joint between the 2 actual U joints swung around and broke the ears off my 7M1401 lubrication oil regulater valve body. It is a discontinued part....so I found one at salvage. My question is.....there is nothing wrong with the U Joint....found the cap in the belly pan....However...I lost all the needle bearings from the cap and both U Joint oil seals need to be replaced. Is there a place that can sell me just the needle bearings and seals? I found a couple needle bears...so I can measure/mic them for demenisions. Who can help me with this? Thanks in advance.
Here are some pics.....can you guys tell what model dozer this is??
call Caldwell hydraulics and dozer repair located east of Ardmore, OK. they have helped me many time and specialize in older cat dozers. 580-795-7719 previously owned by Jackie bean. awesome folks to deal with.
I believe that would be a D7E.
You'd be very lucky. 99% certain you will need a complete new u-joint.
Mid sixty's D7E ...?? Nontypical9, I belive you have a gorgeous D7E-48A!! I also think it is a mid sixty model or later as it does not have the protruding grille sticking out in the front which was for the front mounted hydraulic pump and reservoir tank found on the earlierD7E's. You may find a serial number tag riveted to the engine block say 3-4 inches below the rear-head on the rear lefthand (driver side) of the engine block that would be the same number as the tractors, providing the engine has not been changed out. But it is definitely a D7E, one I would love to have winch and all!! Chum..
thx for the compliments and info guys.....i just picked up this machine for 18,500.....grousers were built up...but rails, pins (not turned), idlers, rollers were all about 85-90%....not sure whether its a high horse or low horse...but she pushes great.....and runs great...a little blow by...but how many machines dont have some?? Just gotta get her back up and running...and add new paint and decals......
heres a better look at the nose....it does have a hydraulic resevoir in the nose with a fill cap....
OOPS!! My bad, I did not that before, Old eyes..?? Most likely early 60's then!! Not sure of the SN# change on the hydraulic system location. Probably 160 HP. Still a fine sight for my OLD eyes!!! LOL LOL Chum..
So....did the make a D7e as early as this machine....The guy gave me a manual for a D7e with a serial number of 48a2699.....which would be an early E if at all???
Yours will be 1964-1960. I want to say 48A6230 was the split from low horse to high horse but I can't remember for 100% sure. Yours is a low horse as it has the vertical air cleaner vs the horizontal on the high horse. Also the hydraulics five it away. That makes it a very early 60tys I believe. Most everything in that manual should be relevant to yours. They're a good ol dozer if they've been kept up. Ryan
So....would this be considered an E....but an early one??
Being you have the parts for the old u-joint it might pay to try a custom drive line shop. I have gotten an oddball from them for a wacko high horse rototiller that no one else could get. They measured mine every way and matched up heavier duty caps with a high tensil cross. Oops, sounds like you can get the u-joint. Read the post wrong.
All I'm really missing is needle bearings....The seals I still have....could be in better shape but I have them....and the zerk on the U joint needs replaced....I'm trying Timken tomorrow for caged needle bearing with integral seals....If I can get in spec with the OD, bore, and width......
For the price of a u-joint, I can't imagine experimenting with putting caged roller bearings in it. Just buy a U-joint and install it.
Only comes as an assembly....and cat wants $700.....I've never seen a $700 U joint.....til now....
like o-i-h said, try a driveline shop if there's one near you. Try www.baumhydraulics.com they have gotten me some weird u-joints by the dimensions before. The website is only good for standard stuff, but if you call them, they can find about anything and have it factory drop shipped. For $700, I guess I might try the caged roller bearing, as long as I knew it wouldn't break that valve body again, and the down time to fix it, and to fix it again if it failed, wouldn't be worth more than $700. Good luck, Mitch
Try after market. Crosses to a #UJ928. Available with free shipping from Amazon.com http://www.amazon.com/Coast-UJ928-Universal-Joint/dp/B009M5G6AC Also here http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/uj-928 And others......try your local drive line services company.
Nice looking D7E nontypical9 . $700 sounds a bit steep for a U- Joint. I agree with what mitch504 said . I had similar trouble with my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee . The CV joint went bad on the front driveshaft and Chrysler wanted $ 650 for the shaft . But they did not have one in stock . No aftermarket parts that I know of . We ended up buying a used driveshaft for $ 150 . Don't know what the world is coming to ?:beatsme Seems like it's either pay a big price or adapt & improvise to something you can get easy off the shelf . Nice find Old Magnet . That's the same type of joint used in my Fiat 16-B dozer . Last one I put in cost $65 .
Forgot to add that part to my post. I wouldn't mess around just go and buy the u-joint. It wont be that terribly expensive. You don't want it to fly appart again. I don't konw of anywhere that you can buy just the needles for the u-joint. If you're asking around the u-joint is called a mechanics u-joint. Caps should be wired together with thin strips of steel in a criss cros pattern. And yes it is a E model. There should be a serial number plate on the motor on the left hand side right in by where the steering clutch leavers come down. Providing motor hasn't been changed it should still be there. Ryan
Thx for all the info guys....I appreciate it....I knew there had to be a CR part out there.....BTW heres my new salvage 7M1401 and the gaskets I had to cut out....cause you cant find them anymore.....will be climbing back under that yellow beast today.....I sure miss my yellow steel super stallion when she's down.....
Found my serial number....thx Ryan.....it was covered in grease and oil....but I found it....
and it matches the manual received with the dozer.....the bottom pic is of the bolts stretched from the previous crapped U Joint....the cause of the whole deal...
I don't know what the original CAT spec called for but I never use lock washers on a critical spot like that, always flat washers and loctite, torqued to the CAT spec. Just my personal preference.
Glad it was there and you could find it. Odds are pretty good that it matches the machine then if it even matches the serial number in the book. That number puts it at a 1963. one year older then mine. Mines a 64 but has a high horse engine put in it. Mines done a pile of work over the years but it'll still put in a good days work. Ryan
Let me tell u....I got my *** kicked today trying to put this 7M1401 part on today......it was tough...stripped one bolt out....its tough working on this equipment.....got the U Joint ordered....now a little break from the *** kicking...til the part comes in....
Yup unfortunatley it's not all fun and games. Some days a guys just gota walk away for a bit. How's your seal on the torque? Good time to change it if you've got the driveline appart. Ryan
the torque seal is good and tight...no leaks....Ive got it all back together......except the lower line running from the tq cenverter housing to the body valve....left it loose b/c I may have to remove to install the new U joint....I get a little break now waiting for the UJ to get here.....a Bud Light/NCAA tournament break......