Hi, this is my first post to this forum. I apologize if this subject is already covered, but I was not able to find it on a search. I recently bought a Case 580CK loader/backhoe. The person who sold it to me said it was a 1968, but based on the serial number I believe it is a 1967. It's diesel. He freely admitted that the brakes did not work and that he just stopped using the bucked and or the backhoe. I prefer to be able to use brakes so I want to repair them. The entire system was locked up, even the pedals would not move. After some work, I have manged to disassemble all of the linkages as well as the parking brake. I have not yet busted in to the brakes themselves because one thing I discovered was that the SHAFT - cross, lower brake lever (P/N G10708) was bent between the R.H. lever and the L.H. lever on the R.H. end of the shaft (looking forward). I need to remove the cross shaft, but it appears that I will not be able to do so without removing what appears to be the Subframe for the loader. Is this true? If so, are there some instructions on doing this removal anywhere on this forum? The repair manual does not address removal of the cross shaft (at least that I have found). Thanks for any help you can offer.
You may try to unhook your linkage and jack it back straight easy with a porta-power. The shaft floats in the bores under the housing, snap ring on each side along with to keys that hold the levers in time, may need some heat and a small puller to remove. Now the bad part if you can not bend it back straight, you have a job ahead of you. Remove the backhoe and loop the hyd lines so you do not dead head the pump. move the tractor to a good area to work, if the machine has a rops you have some other steps that will have to be worked out ( most straight 580's will not have a rops ) remove your fenders and flooring, I would take the four pins out of the bucket and leave it out of the way. Don't know what size shop you may have but having the loader bucket off can let it fit in a small garage and maybe out of the weather. Install a bottle jack on each side under the loader frame and snug up, remove the bolts (4) on each side of rear axle holding the loader and sub frame to the rear axle and while supporting the sub frame for the backhoe unbolt the front bolt and lower the frame down one at a time and remove out of the way. At this point you can take a breather and stick the top two bolts on each axle threw the holes and support the loader frame if you need to move the machine. Now you have to make the choice to support and jack the loader frame or split the trans/rear end and roll it apart if you still don't have the room to remove the shaft. Safety first blocking wheels and using cribbing to support the removal of heavy parts, have a helper when working on it with you, more if needed.
Thanks for the info sleepfoot, I think I might try bending it back first as you suggested. If not, you are right, it will be a bit of work. I would have to do some clearing out of my shop, or utilize my carport for the effort. IT will be a bit before I get at it, but I will post if I have more questions or run into any snags.
Why couldn't you cut the shaft and remove the parts, straighten them, and reinstall? I have no idea what your rig looks like, but sometimes thinking outside the box helps. I'd do anything to avoid splitting a tractor.
I'd have to figure out a way to weld the pieces back together if I cut them to get them out, and I'm not set up to do any welding.
Lots of other people can weld, friends, or you might have to pay. But like I said, I'd do anything to avoid splitting a tractor. An hour at the weld shop or 3 days on your back under the beast?