Hi all, Recently purchased a 1969 case 580ck. I have already taken apart both brake assemblies since pressing on the peddles did nothing. It looks like I might have a great oil leak on the left side, the right one is fairly clean. I attempted to remove the bolts to the rims and broke my impact driver... yea, sheared the splines. Might need to get the drill bits out... It also needs the bucket and dipper cylinders repacked. I’m not sure what kit to get (slider or U shape????) I want to replace all of the filters, any idea on the part numbers for them? All of the gauges except the hour meter do not work and I am planning on replacing them. Does anyone have a diagram of the electrical wiring? How do I go about installing a mechanical engine temperature sensor? The electrical one is busted and the wires aren’t connected to anything. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you all for your time, experience and support. Machine Details: 1969 case 580ck Serial #: 8359050 Hours: 2564 Rear wheels: 14.9/26 Engine: 4 cylinder Perkins diesel Attachments: Front loader & backhoe
I don't think those hours are correct . It would be unusual for a Perkins engine to be in it. Servicing the brakes has been well documented on HEF. Use the forum search function to find what you need to know. If you want the service manual, contact me in a PM and include your email address.
If Tinkerer charged $1.00 for every time he sent those manuals, he’d b a rich sob.!!! Lol And YES Ss, there are tons of 580ck info on this site.. & AT LEAST 1 rebuild a year.. well documented for others to chime in..
In your pictures, The thing with wires hanging is your block heater. Wasnt sure if you were referring to it as a temp sensor?
tickets, Yes that’s definitely the block heater. The writing is a total rats nest and I didn’t see any point in posting a photo of a mess of wires.
Give the low idle screw a 1/4 turn DOWN..& see if that helps..
Where was the serial number tag located that you have in your pic?
The serial number tag was located on the left if you are sitting and looking forward. It looks like it might have been moved since there were holes on the right side.
The serial number for the tractor should be on the steering column on right side just below steering wheel.
Installing a mechanical temp gauge requires you to drain enough coolant that when you remove the original sensor the coolant level is below the hole. Then there is a capillary tube that has to be routed from where the gauge will be through to the hole the sensor will be tightened into.
I’ve been able to replace the brake seals and found that my gear oil was the color of a green milkshake. I will be replacing that oil with 85w 145 and checking to see if the seals hold up. I will also be changing the engine oil, but I’m not 100% sure what type to use since the previous owner claims that it is a Perkins. Can anyone verify what engine I have based on the uploaded photos below? Thank you in advance.
A picture of the entire engine, particularly the injector pump side, might be a better option.
Here’s a few pictures of the engine
Definitely a Case 188
Excellent, thank you very much. I’m planning on using Napa 20wt 50 for the oil change. Is this an acceptable oil or should I be using a different viscosity?
Those early Case engines were actually designed to run a monograde 30W oil. That's not a strict rule though, as they will run long term on a multigrade. Over here it doesn't get very cold, so 15w/40 is the most popular grade. I wouldn't go to synthetic on an old engine like this - definitely mineral oil.
I just picked up 5quarts of Rotella 15w 40 and will use that. It’s not synthetic. I was tempted to get Lucas oil, but passed on it.
Good choice SS.
Update: Today I had a good amount of time to work on the Case so I finished mounting the new wheels, replaced the gear oil, did an engine oil change with new filter, then installed and tested the new mechanical temperature sensor. Everything works and I can see when the thermostat opens/closes on the temp gauge. Thank you all for the help so far. Next I’ll be repacking the dipper and bucket cylinders with bulldog seals.
Good job man, that's a good chunk off the list..May I suggest that solenoid cable next? New cable or at least some tape or liquid bandage, that may just protect you and the machine from those pesky sparks
That solenoid was disconnected before I bought her. One of the previous owners made a mess of the wiring with all of the crimp connectors and different gauge wires. I’ll be pulling it all out and replacing it with marine grade wire and connectors. Any idea where I should be looking to attach the oil pressure sensor? I found a small crimped tube on the lower left side of the engine block that might have been the previous one.
The solenoid is for activating the air heater in the intake manifold. The frayed cable is prolly the one that goes to the heater.
Is it worth replacing the solenoid and getting the air heater working again? I’ve been using the block heater to warm her up before starting and haven’t had any issues.
No, It is not needed if you have a 120 volt outlet nearby for the block heater. There is always an outside chance you may need it someday tho. I scrapped the solenoid on my own machine. One less battery cable is a bonus when you do that.
I’ll probably do the same, since it will always be near an outlet when resting.
I was able to remove the gland but on the boom cylinder and bucket cylinder with no problems luckily. However, after I removed the hoses to the boom cylinder and attempted to pull the rod out, it didn’t want to go more than 2/3. So, I removed the whole cylinder and will use a ratchet winch to get it the rest of the way out.
I have a case 350 dozer I just rebuilt the engine on. I used both the in coolant heater and the air heater the other day. The temp outside was probably 20F. 2 hours on the block heater, 20 seconds on the air heater and it started like it was 70f out. No white smoke at ALL and it fired within 1-2 seconds. I personally would want to have both working just in "case"
Good point, Eric. Does white smoke signify anything at startup or is it just a byproduct?
My understanding is white smoke means basically the air fuel mixture is not igniting and possibly because the air is too cold
SS; If you happen to get the air heater working someday always remember to never ever use an air and ether at the same time. Bad things will happen.
Good point, I don’t want to blow up my air filter.
Does anyone have access to the gland nut seal diagram for the bucket cylinder? The wipers are straight forward, but the interior is what I’m curious about. Even an explanation of how to rebuild it would be appreciated. The interior seals were heavily degraded and I am guessing at what order they went in.
Do you have the service manual ? If not PM me your email address and I will put it on my Google Drive and you can download it. From page 332 in the 580CK manual ---->
The third style is on page 333.
This is just one of the guides in the manual. It may not be the cylinder you have.
I have successfully rebuilt the cylinders. The u-cup internal seal was not fun to insert, but I came across a method to make things easier and attracted a few photos. Is there a good way of re-attaching the cylinders and bleeding the air?
Nice job Sea Sparrow. They do make a tool for doing those seals. They are cheap.
Your machine should bleed the air by just working cylinder back and forth...try to get a full stroke each time you work the cylinders, but try not to "bottom out" too hard so you don't cause damage to dry side of cylinder...
Edgephoto, Do you know the name of the tool by any chance?
Thanks stinky 64, I’ll take it easy when I run the hydraulics the first time.
AmazonSmile: Quayub 3 Pcs/Set Hydraulic Cylinder Piston Rod Seal Up U-Cup Installation Tool: Automotive
Thanks Nova, I’ll check it out
You're welcome. From the tool name I'm sure it's made in China
You were on the right path SS, maybe you should patent the zip tie method and sell them on amazon
I can’t take credit for the zip tie idea. Someone else on tractor net came up with that method. Luckily I have plenty of zip ties to use for the rest of the seals.
Try hot water bath, then squish em in your palm for a while to soften em up before install, I actually took my first seal kit back to dealer because I couldn't figure how the hell I was going to fit that thing into the gland....luckily the feller at the the dealership was sympathetic to my confusion and showed me how to do it in 5 seconds.....truly a keeper of knowledge......
Update: Today I was able to install the oil pressure sensor. I found a crumpled small diameter metal tube on the left side of the block that I assumed to be the old oil pressure line. I unthreaded it and attracted a new gauge. After firing it up it shows 65 psi. It seems like I guessed right. The two cylinders that I rebuilt are working as they should, no issues. I topped off the hydraulic reservoir, it only took a couple of gallons. After warming up the tractor I tested it out on moving a 6 foot long boulder. Everything worked great except the shuttle shifter needs to be adjusted. It has a very difficult time staying in neutral for some reason. Does anyone have any experience adjusting it?
From the service manual. If I used the right one.
My wife just got me new 12 ply tires for my birthday. Breaking off the old one’s without a tire machine was a challenge, but the end result was worth it
That's a good woman, beats the hell out of socks and underwear....I'm no expert, but when I broke the beads off my 12 plies I used that big bead breaker on the end of the dipper...have also used the stabilizers on a friends machine on a tractor drive tire..his boom cylinder was out of commission...
Looks good, I would of painted the rims red when the tires were off but, that's just me
After the first day of heavy use, my temp gauge was showing 230 so I parked and shut down. My shuttle shift forward took a long time to engage a well. I’m guessing the two issues are related. Today I utilized the hole method to clean the suction pipe screen and clean out the old fluid. I found chunks of black rubber and the screen was pretty gunked up. I’m going to drill a large hole to install a new screen since my drill bit shot right through the old one. I also removed the radiator to clean it, but that might be a lost cause since it’s caked with crud and many of the fins are damaged. I posted a photo of it to survey you guys for opinions on if I can save it or if I should junk it.
They make fin combs specifically for straightening a/c coils and radiators. I used to work on a/c and commercial refrigeration. You would be surprised what a small pair of needle nose pliers and then the fin combs can save. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Yellow-...MIqtj4-oiL7gIVjElyCh1hoAr5EAQYBSABEgKHwfD_BwE
Thanks Eric, I’ll give it a shot. I really don’t want to drop $300 on a new radiator.
The radiator turned out to be full of holes and somehow was leaking out of the oil cooler. I bought an aluminum radiator off of eBay and was able to fit it into the tractor. The issue I’m having is that I cannot determine the fitting size on the oil cooler. So far I have tried to use 5/8 JIS and it fit the diameter, but not the thread. The engagement was not correct. I have posted a CAD photo from the Chinese supplier. My next guess is that it could be an SAE 45. Any ideas/suggestions?
The original fittings were 3/4 pipe I believe. The new ones could be metric, British pipe thread.
Just found this chart. Might be JIS300 https://www.hydraulicsdirect.com/Fitting-Thread-Chart-s/1934.htm
If you cant find a fitting, and I am guessing sae 45 degree flare fitting, then cut off the nubs, drill and tap for 1/2” pipe.
When you determine what size / style fitting the radiator has you can can use replacement hoses that have NPT fittings on them and then get the fittings that fit the radiator. Here is where I purchased quite a few fittings. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Adapters-Fittings/ Or, have a hose shop make what you need.
I just tried SAE 45 and it did not thread past the first crest. It's either a JIS or BSP thread. I'm going to run with Walker1's plan of cutting the nubs and threading the internal diameter for 1/2 npt.
G 5/8 - 14 is a most likely a BSPP thread. IMHO. British Standard Pipe Parallel.
Any leads on where to find a 5/8-14 BSPP to 1/2 NPT or JIC adapter?
This is where I purchased quite a few fittings. Here is an example of what you may need. I would recommend that you don't cut off the fittings on your radiator. They may not a have a heavy enough wall to Hold up to pressure after an internal threading operation. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Adapters-Fittings/BSPP/ They also sell NPT pipe couplings designed (forged) for hydraulic applications. That link is to a male BSPP adapter. You need a female BSPP to NPT.
I don't believe the thread is 5/8-14 BSPP because of the flare taper at the end. Try this link for info on identifying the thread. They carry just about anything you can buy for businesses. https://www.mcmaster.com/brass-high-pressure-pipe-fittings
Right on Eric ! I missed the taper when I looked at his photo. The easiest thing would be take the radiator to someone that makes up hydraulic hoses.