Well a lot of people name there tractors so i have been thinking of one for mine and we all know that tractors are females probably because they cost as much as a wife and with mine shes so ugly that she scares my grand kids she has to be named (MARIE LAVEAU) you ugly witch after the song. Shes gonna get some makeup and jewelry this winter i am going to be splitting her and attempting to rebuild the torque converter and twin disc clutch and thought i would put some stuff on here to maybe help someone else out there.What did you name your tractor ??
Notice loader arms and bucket removed i didnt want to fight them so just as easy to remove
grille removed and see i have a small leak on a suction hose and it has some of the radiator plugged up will also be removing radiator and cleaning and flushing it out
just a shot of the rearend minus the extendahoe
instruments
loader removed
extendahoe
That is one clean 580CK.
I have had it for a few years now and it has proven its worth around here so its time to get her ready for the next 45 years
xpack......Wow, where in the world did you find this old CK in such great condition? Im impressed.....it looks like the original factory paint, both yellow and orange......and not all the dings, dents, and damage that most have gone through. Has anything major ever been done to this rig? Engine rebuild, clutch, etc? This is definately one worth keeping and restoring if you have time. I think you will be calling Dale at Tractor Stuff, or emailing him to get some good used or new parts. I see you are missing "Old Abe" on your front end between the headlights. I bought a new one, and it is such good quality that I felt it should be hung on a wall in my house instead of on the tractor.......but it made its way to the tractor: Looks like your steering wheel took on some anti-aircraft 50 cal rounds......were you flying over in Syria airspace alongside that Russian SU24, and some Sea Eye A-supported terrorizst tried to blast you out of the sky? Ha ha........Dale at TractorStuff might have a good used steering wheel, or do you call it a Joystick? ha ha.
The ole lady was grinning like crazy after getting Old Abe back:
Since you have your grille off, did you happen to notice if those 4 large nuts that you removed, were they wearing and digging craters into the steel plate of the tractor nose clip? In this picture, I have already replaced the 4 old nuts with new ones and added large heavy duty washers under them to prevent that digging into the steel. Pic of the 4 nuts/washers: Looks like you have that 750 pound nose weight added under the hydrualic pump shield. Another thing to check for is mouse homes/villages built around the hydrualic pump, and clogging up the two holes. If clogged up, it can trap water and premature rust. I had a ton of nests and crapola in mine. Another thing to check is your fan belt.....I have been told that to replace one, you have to remove the front hydraulic pump, which is a royal pain. Im thinking that I will just get one of those special order fan belts that has a link, so you can install it w/o going thru the pain and suffering.
She didnt move when i bought it,it had lines that were bad, tires were trashed,no brakes,4 or 5 cylinders were leaking bad,wasnt charging,and more .The PO said the motor was rebuilt with 500hrs on it when i got it.I have fixed a lot on it since i have owned it and have also used it a lot and it is just a good old backhoe.The guy wanted $3800.00 for it and i gave $3100.00 and he delivered it about 140 miles for that price. I was pretty stoked about getting it for that price and kinda afraid i wasnt going to get it to move but long story short it was a .25 cent woodruff key that drives the shuttle pump of course the new gaskets ect bumped up that cost,but after i got it back together she moved and i have used it since.I suspect that the clutches are wore and i know im loosing shuttle oil at bell housing gasket and now its time to fix these issues.Im going go with another steering wheel and seat as well and would like to find a good deal on rops for it as well. As far as nuts wearing into metal minelooks good but after reading your reply i will add washers, and i had no idea there was even a emblem between the lights cool i like it !!!thanks
I just finished the font pump on my 530. I had to dig quite a bit of crap out of the holes. Mine is the manual clutch, so not quite as much stuff up there.
xpac......Id say you got a great deal, and I bet the hours on it are pretty low considering the age, and the PO must have stored her inside alot. Wish mine was still in the original Case orange and yellow.....good combo. Did you know that you have a filter up in that "box" behind the grille? ROPS......wont hurt to ask Dale at TS if he has a used ROPS.....he is out in Indianna, which is not too far from you I believe.
Thats what i want to get mine looking like i see you put new rubber n the suction line i need to do that as well looks good !!
Walker1 Thats what i want to get mine looking like i see you put new rubber n the suction line i need to do that as well looks good !!
Walker1......Good job on the pump, and the fresh paint down there. You may want to check those 4 large nuts above the pump to make sure they are not loose are rubbing away on the 1/4" metal. I see that "Old Abe" also flew the coupe on your tractor too. Dale at TS gave me the history......an Indian had stole this eagle from its nest as a baby, and raised it and taught it to go after varmits. During the Civil War, a soldier in the Yankee army bought the eagle for $5 from the Indian (the fellers chipped in to afford him), and then took it with them on their marches from battle to battle. There are pictures on the internet of Old Abe, and the Indian who raised him.
68 Something tells me i will be getting a hold of Dale for a few things is he a scrap yard or ???? Yea Its my shuttle filter i went with a new one when i first got it but what i did just learn the other day was about the power steering filter i had no idea there was a filter in the pump resevoir she will get a new one now that i know its there.I will most likely be all winter doing all this so pic/posts will be hit and miss.The thing that made me want this tractor was when we moved to our new house in the country we have 35 acres of woods and trees were only about 12 ft away from the house there wasnt no yard and i own a kubota L4240 with loader no backhoe that came with us and i figured that it would do what i needed to do to clear this out some and it has done a lot BUT lets just say im not impressed with it. My new neighbor had a case 580b when i moved out here and we just hit it off when we met and he started coming back and helping me put down trees and digging stumps and i observed his 580b in action.I couldnt believe how tough of a tractor his was and he wasnt real gentle with it neither but it just kept working hard and no serious breakdowns after seeing this i knew what was in my future i quit counting trees we took out at 200 but im sure its more like 300 now this is little stuff to monster trees. Needless to say this old girl has earned her right to live here now im pretty much done with the heavy stuff around here so now she sits more than i use her but when the heavy needs done shes the one i rely on and does whats needed.I would be lost without it.
I am not sure that I have actually seen a Case tractor that had the Eagle emblem on it. They must have installed them with bubble gum at the factory.
xpack......Sounds a bit like my story. I bought my 580CK back in 1990, and it was critical in building my first home in the forrest......or, back in the "outback" as it was called. It even acted as scaffolding......I raised the bucket as high as she would go and drove her forward and onto the roof and set the parking brake (that was the backhoe all the way down, and the hydraulic legs down, as it had no brakes and the parking brake lever was missing). I then built metal scaffolding half on the roof, and half in the front-end loader bucket, and went 3 bucks high to reach the next level I was building. OSHA would have had a heart-attack......but it worked. Dug out alot of onry tree roots/stumps, something that I learned you did not attack in one fell swoop, but dug around the stump and finally "popped" it up and out.....and an occasional old chain saw blade on the stihl helped to cheat it out sometimes. The most annoying feature on my 580 was that the Hi/Lo Range Lever would randomly "pop-out" of gear on hillsides, and that dern "gravity force" that Newton created a few hundred years ago really would push at the 580 and get her up to speed in a heart-beat. With no brakes, all I could do was the Fred Flintstone trick of reaching back and dropping the backhoe bucket. If that did not make the Yellow Dragon calm down, then the front loader bucket came down. The worse feeling was going backwards downhill and seeing that the backhoe bucket wasnt very motivated at providing sufficient braking action, and knowing there was a pretty decent drop-off into the creek. I survived these white-knuckle events, and seriously considered signing up for that famous Jamacian BobSled team, since I was used to those out-of-control brake-neck speeds. Im proud to say that a few months ago, I repaired this Hi/Lo Range Pop-Out problem by replacing that Woodruff Key down inside the lever shaft. As you did.......a simple woodruff key can fix alot of problems. I must have been going thru mid-life crisis when I sold this 580CK about 5 years ago to a neighbor. I kept finding myself "left stranded" around the farm by not having the Case around, and many tasks were now impossible to get done. So, I finally contacted the guy, and told him I was interested in buying her back. He had just sold the Case to guy in another county, and I finally contacted him, and agreed to buy it back. So, the neglected Case came back home and is slowly getting back in tip-top shape. As you said, she should last our lifetimes......and can be passed to the next generation of tinkerers. If you do the math, your Kabota L4240 cost per pound vs. your 580CK cost per pound is incredible. At 15000 lbs, the Case comes in around 20 cents per pound. At around 3500 lbs, the Kabota costs about $7.15 per pound. When it comes to doing "real work" the Case is like a savory Filet Mignon cooked by the best Cajun chef around, and the the Kabota is more like the can of spam with a bad expiration date. Ha ha, heeee-hawwwww......a bit of an exaggeration, but you get the point. Yea, regarding the Power Steering filter.....I did a thread with pics on the removal and installation of that filter. I had to use the old O-Ring since the new filter did not come with one, and I think there some other tips I pointed out. See ya. Dwight
Walker......Funny......That part of the Case Assembly Line had 4-5 bubble-gum chewers and one of those round bubble gum containers. Case gave them unlimited nickles to feed the machine to keep the bubbles a poppin, and the "Old Abe" Eagles got their portion of the chewed gum as the tractors rolled down the line. 1000 years from now Archeologists will be uncovering at least one silver "Old Abe" Eagle at about every ancient site, and will say that our culture was full of Eagle Worshippers. Then, they will toss Old Abe under the microscope and they will see the Double Bubble remnants and conclude that our society must have offered up burnt-offerings of bubble gum to our Eagle god. Well, their conclusions may be more favorable to reality, when compared to a snapshot of what is taking place now.
Hey 68 i just looked at mine and i dont even see any holes for old abe in mine but she may get 2 when im done,did they only use them on certain years ?? and for the reason you bought yours back is one reason i cant get rid of this one.I actually have 2 neighbors with 580b's the one neighbor had his when i moved here then i got the ck then my other neighbor just got his and i have been helping him fix a wide variety of stuff we just got his the other day where he can now work it and he seems to be happy with it. My kubota is what i call my gentlemans tractor but when i really want to get dirty out comes the big guns and its unbelievable but the case is great on fuel the kubota has a 3 point fuel truck hooked to it. by the way i emailed Dale at tstuff and he dont have the internals i will be needing but i will keep looking for them i sent him a email on a rops im waiting to see what he says he is about 2 hrs from me so the drive would be doable.
Xpack......2hrs drive to Tractor Stuff......thats great! Save alot on freight, especially on that big stuff. No holes between the lights? Maybe Old Abe was mounted someplace on your model? Yea, just get out the drill and make those 2 holes so Old Abe can find a perch. (Or, just see if Dale can supply you with some factory bubble gum). "The Big Guns". A nice emblem of Yosemite Sam sporting his guns would also be appropriate between the headlights.
Had a oil leak from right side suction line will get new rubber hoses there
A better shot of front leak
found this under the pump ( Must have been a option in 1970 HaHa) all the drain holes under the pump were plugged
Some more crud under radiator mount and hyd pump
Radiator out
Seeing this im kinda questioning if my shuttle oil was to hot when it is really hot outside using the tractor the water temp would run around 190-200 i assumed i have a 190 thermostat but now i will be investigating what this is suppose to be
Thats it for today.But i am curious to know what temp does your tractor run when its hot outside and anyone know what size thermostat should be in the motor
I believe it to be a 180° tstat. Also there should be a round rubber cushion under the radiator for each bolt.
ok Thanks Walker i will look for the rubbers to i dont remember seeing them
xpack........Man, you are fast.......will have to call you the Tazmanian Devil. I bet you used to be the main guy in Richard Petty's pit crew. Its good to find small leaks, like that old suction hose that needs replacing, and fix a multitude of issues as you dive into this project. Nice looking rat nest (or maybe a squirrel nest?) under the pump. Mine was packed up with nests, acorns, Kodiak chewing baccy cans, couple old silver dollars, etc.......an interesting archeological find. And yep, the drain holes were totally clogged and I had to break them open with long screw drivers. Are you breaking the bolts loose by hand or cheating with air tools? Ha ha. I had to use long pipes attached to my 3/4" drive set, and some of those bolts holding the backhoe mounts were really moaning and groaning. I guess you will have her all back together and done by tomorrow, right Taz? Ha ha. You planning on touching up some of the Case orange too?
Blow out all that oily crud from those radiator fins, and she will be running cooler. Maybe hose it, then use the air, then soak with degreaser......will probably look like new in no time.
I still need to fix my Water Temp gauge. Im not sure if the sending unit is bad, or if there is a wiring problem. On my to-do list. I never replaced the thermostate, but I imagine the shop manual gives the size/temp rating. Let me know if your manual doesnt show it, and I will check mine.
Mine was missing them too, I just saw them on the parts diagram. I was just going to hole saw some pieces of tire sidewall for mine.
Im gonna have to stick my nose under my tractor and see if I see those rubber mounts.......I hate to think of the radiator sitting right on metal and vibrating and rubbing holes into it. Good idea using scrap pieces of tire sidewall.
Yea mine must be missing as well i dont see them i will do like Walker said and build some.Hey Walker what year is yours and is it power shuttle can you put up some pics of it are you working on yours now or is it already done mine has been a as you go project for 5 years. 68 I will be repainting the orange as well as the yellow im thinking rattle cans but i think i read you used brushes and rollers if so how did that work for you and where did you get your paint.I am wondering if my colors are the original colors or if mine was all yellow. Got some more disassembled today may do the split tomorrow she also just got her 2nd round with the pressure washer today.
here a shot of under the dash
fuel tank and lines are off
from the top down
Nice work so far. I am watching closely since I have the same work coming up, both shuttle and engine major. I had worked on it this spring, but have put the whole thing aside due to other priorities. You machine has the original colour scheme, with orange engine, trans and wheel centres. Wheel rime were silver and the rest was yellow. When I changed my axle ends, I repainted the whole assembly with GM orange engine paint. Its pretty close and once dirty, can't tell the difference. For bigger jobs, I'd get the exact correct orange, either Case or from a paint supplier.
after 2nd pressure washing
Juskatla i happen to have a kubota and the orange on it looks like the case orange at least the rims do but they are both dirty and faded.I like the idea of rattle cans so i can do a section at a time but i dont want to spend a mint to do it like that and i am not a fan of rustoleum it just dont seem to harden and it wrinkles super easy dont ask how i know aint nothing like putting on a good looking 1st coat then waiting 3 days for it to dry then apply 2nd coat and it wrinkles i have not learnt what words you need to say so it dont happen but believe me i have thrown all the good ones out there when it does that.
Xpack.....I think the condition of your orange and yellow paint is almost so good that you dont need to worry with the paint.....or maybe just some touch-up paint in places. I think the paint you have is original. I thought some had solid orange rims like yours, and others had the silver/orange config., but I could be wrong. Hey.....be sure you seal off your intake manifold so you dont get dirt and bolts falling down that hole. Would hate to get some crap going into your cylinders and doing damage.
Youre gonna find that the more digital pics you take and stash away on your computer, the better. When I started putting parts/pieces back together, it was a BIG help to be able to go back to pictures so as to get it together right. For example, that complicated front end loader joy-stick mechanism.....no way I would have got the components back right w/o the pictures I took. I still think that a good degreasing is allyou need for the engine/bell housing/tranny/rear....that orange looks damn good as it is. You could easily tie plastic around it before you do all the yellow to keep any yellow spray from messing it up.
These came out when i drained the shuttle oil today they are 2 small pcs of metal that kinda remind of a piece of spring ????? This bugs me i hope i figure where they came from when i get it apart.The 2 things that have me most concerned is the rebuild of the torque converter and the shuttle i did a lot of reading on this site about the shuttles and i read where the rockford is easier than the twin disc which is what mine is just my luck.I am hoping someone with some knowledge will chime in when its time to do the rebuilds.I have read a lot by a guy named Phil on here and he was very sharp on these and in one of his old post he was talking about about shuttles and he said if you have the twin disc you have my condolences which scares me hopefully i can figure it out.
Xpac.....I put alot of the painting details under a seperate thread, but I mixed my own Rustoleum Oil paint to get the mellow Case yellow. I can give you the mixture amounts if you go that route, but I must say it is pretty time intensive using a small brush and small roller.....all the hand sanding, doing the primer first, then the brushing/rolling again for the yellow. But at least there was no paint spray mist to inhale, or no need to wear breathing masks. Im not sure if the Rustoleum oil dries to a hard finish like the original paint, but so far it seems to be holding up pretty good. I was considering spraying a clear coat that would make a hard finish, but never researched it to make sure it would work.
Kinda fuzzy looking, but could be a spring that popped loose and got torn up.....might show it in the parts book. Looks like you will become the new expert on the Twin Disc Shuttle.......so you can help everyone after you get thru it. But there are several on this site who should know it like the back of their hands.
68 The orange does look pretty good but i will just finish the cleanup and put a coat or 2 right over the top. I will be sealing intake and exhaust soon as i get it apart for now i just covered a bunch of stuff with ziplocks so i dont get crud in anything while getting the major off of it. I have also been going to show a pic of this me and my neighbors put the sight glass hoses on our 580's with a breather on top so we know where our oil level is at all times and we dont have to remove the plug when we have to add hydraulic oil,if anyone does this just make your hose long enough or you will push oil out the breather if its to short i know first hand.
Xpac.....Sight glass hoses........Im guessing you have that clear 1" hose rigged up to show the level of you hydraulic fluid, but Im not quite sure how you have it rigged up......You can show as your putting her back together.
heres a couple pics of it.Its more like 3/8" clear hose it takes the place of the lower plug you remove everytime you fill your hyd fluid so you know your full.I got to be a pain so i just hooked up a hose and a couple brass fittings and the breather is from a truck rearend. Now no mess when i fill and no plug removal and i can see my level.
here the fittings
heres a better pic of the stuff that came out in shuttle oil ????
Xpac........Well, I managed to put the backhoe back on my 68 580CK today (I will leave some more tips under a seperate thread), and I remembered to take a pic of the hydraulic filter gauge. Here it is: The filter was just changed and the needle operates in the middle of the green zone which reads "Operate". The red zone says "Change". Underneath it says "Filter Indicator", and "CASE" in big letters.
A shot of the shuttle and for anyone that dont know You have to remove this cover to split tractor as there are 2 big nuts at the to to remove along with sides and bottom 8 in total all the way around 4 bolts 4 nuts
Thanks 68 that will will be very helpfull as soon as i get to that point
another of shuttle
Xpac......OK, looks like you drilled a hole in the flat platform that mounts the hand controls to the front loader, and ran the tubing through that hole and down to the little "full level" plug. I agree......I hate to have to guess when its getting full, and then have hydraulic fluid running out the plug hole, and rushing to get the plug in before too much runs out.......and then mopping up the mess. This spring when I drained the system and put new fluid in, I put a few gallons too much thinking that some of the empty hydraulic cylinders would consume the extra. Well, I forgot to use the empty stabilizer cylinders first.......and instead used the lever operating one of the full cylinders, and the fluid came rushing back into the reservoir, filled it to the max, and then the fluid came squirting out of the two breather tops. I then started mopping up the mess, and got a funnel and 5 gallon bucket to drain a couple gallons out, using the small drain plug or "Full Level" plug. I unscrewed it, and that fluid came gushing out with the force of Niagra Falls and missed the big funnel and got me full-blast from my neck down to my stomach. Big mess. So, your clear tubing is a good idea so one always knows the exact level of the fluid. I did make one custom modification to the hydraulic drain plugs on the bottom. I fitted flow valves to I can drain any water off every year or so, without draining the entire system. Heres a pic:
heres the some wedgeing under front of motor i did the same on the other side and ran a strap to lock it so it couldnt twist
So now we can see first hand the difference between your "Shuttle" vs. my "Standard tranny": Now since you are the new expert, tell us how that contraption works.
Yes 68 thats exactly what i did is drilled a hole and feed it up threw the plate and i have actually built a mount out of angle iron with a hole in it for the top and im going to attach it to the toward the top of tank when i get a rops on it just dont make the hose short or it will blow oil out of it .I like your idea for the drain valve as well,I am very glad to know im not the only one going to these length's for these old machines. In my opinion its worth it but there are moments i ask myself (what are you thinking)
I will tell once i know for sure I am still trying to sort it out myself
580 ck Very nice looking backhoe
here she is at least half
They are true work horses, I love my ck, for it weight and size its the best little machine.. Nice job I'll have to drop off mine at your shop for TLC.
the other half and wow is it heavy still
Adolf probably when i get this done i will dig a big hole where the shop is so i can bury the tools so i wont be tempted to do it again....(haha)
There something wrong with this it just dont look the same haha
Its truly labor of love or were all crazy for keeping these things around.
another closeup of the shuttle
I also have Case 980 crawler that needs just about everything. Talk about having one to many screws loose. Guess you need not look to far on the crazy scale because i love that old stuff.
I think a little of both but the reward is in the full bucket of dirt or seeing the bottom of that huge stump and being 40 some years old and still doing it.Is your power shuttle ??
rearend gone and wow was that gasket holding it together i had to bounce it a bit to get it to separate just a little to get pry bars in there
What happen to shuttle? Is that weld glob, or is that crack starting.
its just the weld
I v e never done anything on mine but maintenance, i.e. oil, filters, little welding and yes its auto, forward & reverse with 4 speed, S for start. Yes it great feeling turning that key and hearing it run.
All the best your way. Ill check in later. Great to see your old girl getting some new make up.
This was the best shot i could get of the screen for the pickup tube for the shuttle pump you have to look under the little gear and you will see crap under the screen this was also a shot with camera on its side rather than straight on.This is the pickup that a lot have had plug up on them i cleaned this 5 years ago when i had it removed from the top and its not looking great right now.I have read where guys are drilling the bottom of the torque tub and tapping and putting a plug here so they can clean this with out a lot of crap to get to it.Im thinking there onto something i may go there.
Ahh the dreaded plug I tried to remove a year ago to put in a block heater but what a job to get at in the tractor so now the battle begins while i can get to it
Yep.........I hear you. I started out just with the intent on getting her mechanically running in decent shape, and it turned into much more than that. Real challenging at times, but I have learned a ton by doing all this work......and the experts at this site were great in all their answers to my questions.
Holy Cow Batman!!!!! Its you and whose army of mechanics doing this work?????? My jaw is dropping.....how on earth do you tackle this job so fast???? Seriously, how many hands do you have helping? Or, maybe I am just in some type of time-warp, and all your posts have actually taken about a month to do, instead of one afternoon (and a short afternoon at that, being in December and close to Winter Solstice, with the night beginning at 5 pm). Were you a former Case mechanic? That screen.....maybe now is the perfect time to mark and drill it since you can see what you are doing, and can clean off the drill and tap chasings. Just curious......would it be too destructive to just remove the screen? Another idea....put a large magnet on the belly of the case, so the debri will accumulate near the plug you are going to put in. Remove the magnet before draining.
Where did that plug come from? I had to put my block heater on the other side, behind the fuel filter. I will have to check my 580 to see if it has the plug you are showing in the pic. Here is where I put the block heater:
No case mechanic here my neighbor helped me split it and using the kubota with forks, some rigging of straps, 2 floor jacks,one hoist,and a woodburner in the barn which makes it flannel shirt weather in there.We had split his b last year for the (ring and pinion) so it wasnt our 1st time but hopefully our last. Removing the screen in my opinion would be a mistake as it could draw crap up and into the orifices,pump,and valves and raise havoc but the whole drill hole idea is a great one i like the sounds of a magnet to.The big slowdown is about to come thats putting it back together,ordering parts,painting,repairing,and trying to figure out where that extra washer came from wishing i knew a real case 580ck mechanic that liked a 12 pack as a form of payment or at least a downpayment !!!!
That is where this plug is same side as yours and behind fuel filter ,,,,how did your old plug come out any heat??? or did you drill it??? I have had this heater which looks like yours for a year now because i had a hard time trying to get that out with it in the tractor but now it will come out one way or another
Well, both you and your neighbor are lucky to both have 580s, and to have each other in times like these. Just dont let them drink the 12 pack, until AFTER the work is done. On the other hand, it might be easier to "think outside the box" after a few brewskies have massaged the ole brain cells. That internal screen.......Hey, if you really want to do it right, run a line out to a small screw-on filter, and a line back in and then you can delete the internal screen. Nevermind......thats WAY too much effort, and an idea that only works after consumation of the 12 pack. Ha ha. Good luck on all the repairs.........and keep the pictures coming.
Dern if it aint! I cant believe I did not see it......I guess the orange color distorted my vision.....or was it your free 12 pack? One trick I do is to use a small "?" type screw-driver pic so I can clean the paint off the threads where it meets the block. Then I spray some good penetrating fluid on the exposed threads, and let set a day or so. Then mine came off w/o any pain/suffering. So you have the right size plumbing socket that fits the square hole? I did not want to spend $25 for that National Pipe Thread socket, so I bought a set of rachet extensions/adapters and had to grind two sides off until it fit the hole. The first one I ground down had that stupid spring-loaded ball inside, so after grinding it the ball came out, and it was so weak that it twisted and broke when I tried to use it......so I then ground down another type w/o the spring loaded ball......and success. I put ant-seize lube on the threads before putting heater element in.......so it will be easier for the next guy to take out:
Hey 68 i think i see orange on that engine sooooo if you think you would like repaint her orange i just happen to know where you can get some practice haha.Have you ever used that block heater does it help????? Mine starts like a bull mule in the cold and i have the intake heater that i know is working but i cant really see where it makes that much of a difference.The only thing that seems to help is either and i hate using it.Im hoping this block heater does the trick..
Well the dreaded plug was a bit of a battle heres a shot after i drilled a hole in it
I cut a slot in the side of the plug to relieve it and it finally came out
block heater installed and weapon of choice to cut slot in old plug and i had to remove fuel filters to have good access
hopefully final pressure washing after simple greening the crap out of it
final wash
I just put the block heater in this summer, and it has not been cold enough yet to use it. However, I am sure that it will really help starting when the anti-freeze is warm. For some reason, this tractor has always been easy to start and I have never had to use ether. Also, the air intake heater was hooked up wrong, and only came on when the starter was turning (what a huge drain on the battery to have both the air intake and starter pulling electrons at the same time). I got that fixed now, and gave it a try today.......I heard a click noise, which I guess is normal for the air intake heater. Hey, if the block heater and air intake heater dont do the trick, you can try what the Russians do......build a fire under the oil pan, and let her get nice and hot before starting. Yep......lots of original orange under that yeller. Im thinking of painting the engine orange to give her some signs of her true colors. I'd hate to take away the immense enjoyment you will have with that paint brush in one hand, the small roller in the other, and that gallon of orange paint on the table.......reminds me of one of the stories in Huckleberry Finn, where Tom Sawyer convinces the local kids that painting his mom's fence was immense fun, and had his buddies doing the work for him.
final wash
final wash
Good job with the block heater.....Guess I was lucky to get mine to come out so easy. Yep, removing the fuel filters gives you alot more room, but I managed to do it with them in place.
cleaned up pretty good what a mess it was ready for paint now
Where did you get that Barco Lounger of a chair? Ha ha. Maybe you need to put one of those block heaters up inside the cushion to help "fire-up" the operator.
I tried the extension ground down and even threw a limited amount of heat to it and the extension did grab it good but it ultimately twisted the extension.It would have been a real pain in the tractor but im sure if you could get in there to cut a slot it could be done in the tractor...
See......that orange is looking great.......you sure you need to paint it?
Now I bet you are glad you did it instead of waiting after the tractor was back together. I am sure it is going to make a big difference on those cold mornings.....probably plug her up a couple hours before you need to use her. Have that dry pile of firewood on standby.
HA it is a seat from a mobile scooter it is actually very comfy but it soaks up water when you get caught in the rain.
I'm envious of the other tractor, as when I split mine, it will be without the ability to move it anywhere off the shop floor. I have wheeled jigs built up with scaffold wheels and unistrut to carry the weight but no way to move it around to the outside. Even rear wheels and tires are a chore without the use of a front end loader.
Juskatla......Ok, got you......having another tractor with a loader to carry the tonnage around makes a HUGE difference.
Juskatla It does make it nice to get this stuff out of the way if it was nice outside i probably would have just left everything in the shop but i hate to totally tie up the shop in the cold because in my world something else will break and it will take priority over this and i would be stuck freezing outside and that really sucks.I have took 68's advice and have been taking a ton of pics which im not posting all of them so when you get started if you need something just let me know. I also want to tell what my tractor was doing exactly which is why i tore it down. 1st= The obvious gasket leaking between the engine and bell housing 2nd= Takes a long time to warm up before she will move 3rd= It has 180 psi on the clutch pressure gauge and when warming it to get her moving ,I raise the rearend off the ground and put it in gear, I noticed that if i push the clutch in just a little the pressure drops but the wheels move better and i actually hear a change in the shuttle like the oil is moving like it should be.After its warm it works fine. So im hoping to eliminate clutch issues by resealing the torque converter,shuttle piston,and the shuttle valves, and putting in new clutches hopefully this all works out but i wont lie i am a little nervous about the shuttle and the torque converter resealing i have read some of the problems about working on the shuttles.My fingers are crossed it goes good i dont want to get it wrong and have to do this again.
didnt get a lot done today but i did get some paint she aught to run cooler now i wish i would of had a temp gauge for the shuttle oil prior to the tear down but this should defenitely help and i amgoing to put in a oil temp gauge when she goes back together because i just want to know.
painted a spot with the school bus yellow from tsc looks pretty close
better shot of yellow paint with type of paint from tsc
kubota orange from tsc
a spot with the orange i believe these are close enough for me
I did pm melben as he seems very smart on the old ones as well, asking how to id my shuttle and he said the rockford shuttle piston (the big round aluminum drum in the middle of the actual clutch disc) is smooth all the way around with no holes. The twin disc piston has holes in it for oil from some kinda valves that the twin disc has built in them. I have also been researching the new clutch disc and dont take this part to the bank but it looks like the fiber disc in a rockford dont have the tabs that stick outward of clutch housing but the metal ones do where with the twin disk the fiber disc have the tabs that stick out of the clutch housing but the metal ones dont so they are just the oposite.I hope i am right about this if so this info makes mine a rockford which i hear is easier to rebuild and a real load off my mind if this is what i have.I would love to see the 2 side by side just for the knowledge of knowing.
Good job on the radiator. Youre like me with the gauges.......its good to know the temps/oil pressures, etc.....so an extra gauge here and there never hurts. I have two oil pressure gauges just because I wanted to know how close the old gauge was operating. Speak of gauges, before you put her all back together, I want to ask you how yours was wired (which side of the engine temp gauge gets the sender wire, and which side gets the ground wire. My temp guage just flickers on the extreme left side of the dial, and never goes up in temp.....so, I am thinking maybe I have the two wires backwards. Same with the fuel gauge....just flickers to the extreme left, even when the tank is full.
Yep, that School Bus Yellow is real close. Regarding the Kool-Bowta Orange you bought, do you think that will hold up decent under the heat of the engine? I may go this route and paint my engine orange again. Will this paint work on everything except the exhaust manifold?
heres my temp gauge
backside of temp gauge
here is where my thermocouple hooks into the engine my setup is the mechanical gauge and we just bought one of these at advanced auto for i think less than $20.00 and installed in on my neighbors 580b it installed just like mine only wire to these is for the backlight.If you think of changing to a mechanical one just make sure it measures starting 100 deg to 250 deg
fuel gauge
back of fuel gauge hot wire from ignition goes here which is on the terminal closest to left side if your setting on tractor looking forward
View attachment 146095 back of fuel gauge the wire from your sending unit goes here right terminal setting on tractor looking forward.I know when i got mine the fuel gauge was gone so i played with this setup some and i tried a auto store gauge and found out it must be a gauge that matches your sending unit so i bought a used one from a ck.Also you want to make sure you have ground to your dash then the round part of the gauge in the back picks up ground from the mounting bracket if you look at the right side of gauge you will see what looks like rust between the gauge and the bracket .That is actually a bump out built on the bracket that delivers ground from dash threw bracket to round part of gauge so verify ground there after you verify dash ground.You also need the tank itself to have ground so i would check that next, then if it dont work i think you unhook the wire from the sending unit and put ground to that wire and the gauge should move if it doesnt its the gauge if it does its in the sending unit.Hope this helps ya 68 let me know
I just read can and it really dont give the temp rating i actually didnt even give it a thought,great question though but i would think ???? it would be ok on the motor since im going over the top of the current paint.I will do a little more research first and i am going to use hi temp on ex manifold and muffler
xpac.......Oh, ok......you have a mechanical one, not electric. Good setup.......I will consider that as an alternative if I cant get mine working. PS....you need a bulb in your temp gauge.....for all that night work you will be doing. If you are like me, you have read Huckelberry Finn, and know dern well that you must dig at night under a full moon when you are digging holes to bury your pirate's booty......and you cant bury under regular oak trees, gotta be white oaks (better ph balance, and keeps your silver bullion from tarnishing). Ha ha, hee hawww.
Thanks for taking the pics and sending.....I know you are swamped with your huge project. Im gonna compare my pics and wiring set up with what you sent, and try to determine if I wired it backwards. Ground to dash/gauge....Yea, I thought those brackets were trying to make ground to the metal dash, and the dash itself is grounded with screws. I didnt like that......too much risk of losing a good ground. So I ran a seperate ground wire down to a large bolt that bolts the battery box to the tractor, and ran the ground to the gauges. Wait a minute here......When I say Woe, I mean Woe!, as Yosemite Sam would say. Are you saying that the "U" shaped mounting bracket has to contact the side of the round gauge? going to check some of my electrical pics now. Tank ground......as I recall, the tank is mounted on rubber mounts, so how does it get ground? The sending unit is only a screw with one wire coming from it, going to the fuel gauge.
xpac....... Here is a pic of the back of my dash. My Fuel Gauge is the top middle gauge. The black wire is the hot wire from the key switch and goes to the gauge terminal on the Left (if your in the driver's seat, but the Right one in the pic). The White wire goes to the fuel sending unit (the white wire is on the Right of the gauge if your in the drivers seat, but on the Left in the pic). Since I put layers of fresh paint on the dash before putting the gauge back in, there is no ground to the dash. Also, of the "U" shaped bracket fails to make contact through the dash paint, there is no ground action going on. Here is a close up of the water temp gauge: Note that this gauge has the letters "GND" on the "U" shaped bracket, and had 2 screws there......so, I ran a direct ground from the bracket down to the big bolt holding the battery box to give it a good ground. On the 2 scres below the bracket screws, the one on the right (in pic, but left if your in drivers seat) is the hot from the ignition switch. The white wire on the left (in pic, but on right if your in drivers seat) goes to the temp sending unit on the engine. So, I know the Temp gauge has a good ground. I just compared mine with your pics........and I wired the Fuel the same as you are showing. So, the only problems could be either: 1. Bad sending unit 2. Fuel Tank has no ground 3. Bad gauge 4. No ground on fuel gauge So, looks like I need to do those tests you mentioned to figger out where the problem is. (You sure the round metal part of the gauge needs to be grounded to the dash????) Sparky.
yes thats what im saying the u shape has to contact the round part of the gauge the main thing is make sure the round part is getting ground,this is the point for it to pickup ground and the u bracket has the insulators so it cant short out with the hot being hooked to the terminal. As far as the tank ground on mine there is like a welded bolt on the bottom of the tank actually 2 of them and from what i have found they are the ground for the tank see pics this one is by the petcock front right if your in the seat
back right from the seat i just ran a ground to one of my mounting bolt when i worked on this the 1st time but when i do it this time i will use the original grounds
heres another pic of rear of fuel gauge look closely between the u bracket and the round part of gauge you will see a little bend of metal that is a factory bend in the u bracket so that it gives ground to the round part of the gauge.And once again i cant locate where i read about this but i read that is why its there to deliver ground to the actual gauge thes little bends are on both sides of my u bracket to rub on the round part for ground.I cant say for certain that if you dont have a ground there it will still work as i have never tried that but im pretty sure i read somewhere that it needs to have it.Really if yo look at the gauge mounting terminals coming out of the guage you should see insulators on both terminals and the same goes for the u bracket where the terminals go threw it insulators are there to so it cant get ground just by mounting unless it could get it threw the front of the dash where you have painted and same goes fresh from dealer.t give you the best answer i know is mine is grounded will it work without it grounded i dont know for certain.As long as you have all the insulators in the gauge and u bracket both sides and both parts i would test for ground on round part if no ground just touch a ground to round part and see if that fixes it.If not make sure of ground at fuel tank if ok disconnect wire at sender unit and touch ground to wire watch gauge if it jumps to full now you will need to pull sending unit i have heard some can be repaired and some are beyond repair,If the gauge doesnt move when you ground the sending unit wire go directly to the gauge terminal in case wire is bad if nothing still then its a bad gauge.And make sure when touching this ground wire to sending wire or gauge terminal the key is on you need power to gauge for this test.Now im outa breath haha let me know if this works
heres another shot of bent metal on u bracket and if you look at previous pic you will see the white insulators on the terminals
Xpack.....Thanks for the detailed information.....thats some good stuff. I had no idea there was a little stub under the fuel tank for a ground wire......I will check that today. Honestly, I cant remember if my "U" hold down brackets had those bent notches in them or not. I dont recall them, and in one pic, all I see on mine is just a round 1/8" hole in the bracket where your bent tabs are. Maybe these U brackets changed from 68 to 70? However, if the fuel and temp gauges do require a ground to the gauge itself, then I am missing that on the fuel guage. I will do the spearmints you mentioned and try to see what the problem is. Seems like it would have been simplier if Case had just put a terminal screw on the gauges for a ground wire. Thanks for all the pics and your lengthy reply......now you can breath again...ha ha.
I wish i knew more about your temp gauge i just dont never messed with the electric ones.I didnt think to ask you but is your fuel gauge from a ck i remember it has to be compatable with your sender unit and i think as long as its from a ck it will work.I hope you get this going, the old dipstick in the tank thing gets old been there done that tooo.
xpack.....As you see in this pic, the Temp Gauge actually says "SW" as the brand, while my other gauges say "Case". So, that could make a difference. At some point I will have it all figured out. The fuel gauge did come from a CK, and I bought it used from Tractor Stuff: So, it should be compatable with the sender.
On the temp gauge yours is fine but it sounds like it is more complicated than the mechanical one. If you was to buy a mechanical one you would have less to deal with as it only has a thermocouple that screws into the block on one end and the other end is built to the gauge and there only like $20.00 or less at most auto stores...it is the fuel gauge that has to be compatable with the sending unit and i was told a ck fuel gauge from another ck should be compatable as long as it is from a ck yours looks identical to mine therefore it should work .I see you bought one from a used ck which is exactly what i did and mine works fine with my sending unit . my money says you either have a ground issue or a bad sending unit for the fuel gauge.As for the electric temp ?????
Yea....Im hoping its not a bad sending unit, which takes a bit of work to replace. Hopefully just a lack of a ground....will let you know after I have time to inspect the situation. Until then, I will keep the stick handy.
Hey 68 depending on whats wrong with the sending unit if thats what it is i have read about others being able to be repaired.And yea the stick dont lie
looks like someone painted my power steering oil
Tranny out and you have to remove the starter bolts as well
flywheel
tranny gone
tranny
torque converter
what i think is gasket material in my fingers but i really dont see much of a gasket
rockwell shuttle and my nightmare
sealing rings on shuttle shaft that make a seal in torque tube i think for the oil ports from forward or reverse
pulling shuttle apart
shuttle tore apart not real complicated to tear down just a lot of pcs
shuttle removed from torque tube
a good shot of shuttle pickup tube screen
Isnt that power steering fluid "supposed" to be kinda clear looking? Man, thats some dark fluid! I must admit that when I changed my fluid/filter, it wasnt very pretty either.
Xpac.....Thats funny seeing the Instrument panel still hooked up when everything else is torn apart and strewn all over.
Xpac.....Im guessing that tranny weighed about 1000 lbs.......did you and another poor soul lift it up on those saw horses? Im wondering what the load rating is on those poor sawhorses (I think I hear them squealing all the way down to Va.)
xpac....the pic of your rockwell shuttle.........A great balancing act indeed. If you start having dreams of a big tornado coming after you and sweeping you away, its because this rockwell looks like a lean, mean, fighting tornado machine. I bet rebuilding it will be a piece of cake for you.
xpac....pic of "pulling shuttle apart".........That gadget is what my dentist uses.....great for pulling those stubborn teeth out. ha ha.
xpac...pic of shuttle pickup screen.......Is that sediment and debris covering almost the entire screen? If so, man.....she needed a good cleaning. Installing the "clean out" hole below this screen would be a great idea if you have time. Did you find any major issues during the tear down? Tranny teeth chipped/cracked or any surprises?
Ha yea that was the best i came up with it in a hurry 2x4 tractor special tool .I have a overhead hoist so with that and some strategic moves and some jacks it came out pretty good and i will let you know if my calculations were right tomorrow if its on the floor i will say my computer calculated the numbers was wrong if its still standing i will take credit for it
xpac......maybe put some soft blankets under those saw horse just in case your calcs. come up wront.....ha ha.
I was going to remove the torque converter to but i have decided until the shuttle is done im not tearing the converter apart the shuttle has my mind on overload so i will get it done first.I thought i would of seen more of a gasket between the bell housing and engine i really didnt see any of a old one just some small thin pieces that i think was gasket??? either these are very thin or mine just disapeered . And whats going on i havent hear of anyone who has named there tractor do we only do this in michigan 68 as good as yours is looking shes gotta have a name.My grandkids used to call mine back ah hoe now im calling her marie laveau after the you ugly witch song i will have to hook up speakers with that song wired to a horn button just so people know who marie really is my wife and a friend didnt know who it was until they heard the first few words of the song all my wife could say is i was nuts but then thats probably why she married me haha
Xpac.....Maybe I will name my 580Ck "Greased Lightnin", because until I fixed the Hi/Lo Range lever, she would pop out of gear on hillsides and go hauling freight downhill and skirr the krap out of me......and she had no brakes at the same time, making these events pretty terrifying. Also, she had major hydraulic leaks everywhere, and was very greasey and oozing all the time.......hence, Greased Lightnin.
:laugh:laugh:laugh Thats funny and sounds like a very original name i can relate to it mine had no brakes when i got it either and there was some but squezzing events on her as well believe me i got pretty fast at dropping the backhoe and the loader to stop her.Im still laughing only because i can relate to it.hahaha
Snicker, snicker, snicker. Maybe I will have a painter airbrush the name "Greased Lightnin" above the hood emblems........and to add some flare, a couple bolts of lighnin going thru a barrel of grease. Ha, ha, heee hawww.
Xpac......I was using Greased Lightning yesterday to move big piles of brush and happened to notice the large bolts coming loose at the base of the backhoe.....4 bolts on each side hold the swing cylinders. So, I hope to tighten them today before they fall out. I think we were talking about this just a couple days ago. Will try to take some pics to show the situation.
I tried to just tighten mine a couple times but they kept coming loose so i finally cleaned everything and run loctite on them so far it hasnt done it since,ther was another member who bought hardened bolts and torqued them in and said they are good now.By the way did you see juskata has started a thread on his project he has pics of his on there to i really like his cab check it out.....
Got the bolts tightened on the swing cylinders. One was missing the lock washer, and the other was out an inch and had become bent. So I put a new one in, added the lockwasher, and got her torqued down pretty good. For some reason 3/4" SAE was a bit large, so I used an 18 metric which fit alot snugger. I guess the bolts are so old that they have worn down over the years, and now are metric. While I was down there, I pumped a load of grease into those bottom fittings. One grease fitting was busted, and needed replacing. At least I made some positive progress mechanically today. Forgot to take pics, but you know what I was talking about. Did not know that JustAtla had started a thread....I will check it out....thanks for the heads up.
Yea you just wanna keep an eye on on them not sure why but they like to come loose.I have been emailing Dale on some parts he does seem like a straight shooter im hoping in a week or 2 to get the parts needed for the shuttle.While im thinking of it my front tires are wearing bad on the outside half of the tire so i measured the distance between them in the front and the rear of them and i have a 3" difference the rear is wider than the front which means i have a serious toe in thing going on which i will correct.but my tires also have lean in at the bottom and lean out at the top which i think is called castor or camber on a car, but on this theres no adjustment for that,with a 4 ft level on the sidewall of tire touching the top sidewall and setting the level to read level theres about a 1" gap at the bottom sidewall if you happen to think of it and get time would you check yours with a level and let me know how much your gap is from top to bottom.I have been told these have a lean like that for steering purposes.
Xpac......Yea, I bought a new tie rod and tie rod ends to install, but am still using the worn-out old one. I remember making the same measurements you just mentioned, and was surprised that I had such a big difference between the front measurement and the rear measurement......Im thinking it was also about 3 inches off (with the rear being wider). When Im driving her, she wants to veer to the right, so I need to get this taken care of when I get a chance. One thing holding things up is that I need to get some type of "steering-wheel puller" to pull off the power steering cylinder tie rod end (where the tie rod connects to the steering arm near the tire (see second pic below). I tried when I did the spindle bearings, but it was so tight that I just put off doing it. By the way, those special nuts that lock the tie rod ends to the tie rod are chamfered on one side which grabs the end of the tie rod and keeps it from pulling free of the tie rod end threads.......they cost about $40 each! The maker of the new tie rod does not supply them, nor the maker of the tie rod ends. I have searched everywhere, and cant find anything cheaper. So, I am hoping to saw-zaw the weld holding the nut on one end of the old tie rod, and hope I can unscrew the other end and use them again. (Who wants to spend $80 for two nuts???) Here is the crack in the new tie rod that the chamfered nut will lock down on: I will re-measure the differences between the front and rear of the tires and let you know.
Seeing the first pic I sent above makes me want to give another greasing tip. The front axle has a very important grease fitting for that axle pin in the center. I found that the grease fitting often does not want to take grease, but when I put the loader bucket down and raise the front wheels up a hair, that takes pressure off the entry area of the grease fitting, and the grease flows in great then. This pin takes alot of weight/stresses and needs to be greased regularly.
hey 68 im more wondering about the level on the sidewalls maybe im not explaining this one right the toe in i can adjust with the tie rod. It is the top to bottom, mine is wider at the top than the bottom which makes the top of the tire on both sides lean outward more than the bottom i just used a 4ft level and set it against the side of the tire at the top and leaned out at the bottom and measured the gap at the bottom between the tire and the level mine is about 1" gap at the bottom both sides.
OK......I follow you......I will get the level out and do the measurements and get back with you, hopefully tomorrow. Since I have brand new spindle bearings and a tight fit, my measurement should (hopefully) be close to factory specs.
Went shopping today and got her some wide front rims and a tire.I was told the lugs in the 11Lx16 is hard to come by so i went on the hunt and located the implement rims on c/l he wanted $50.00 i brought them home for $30.00 and they seem to fit well.Now just need to get 2 new or like new tires and clean em up and paint them.I am hoping i will like these better we shall see.
Xpac.......The front tire rims on my 68 are alot narrower. Did Case increase the width on the 1970 tractors, or did someone put larger ones on years ago? Looking at my front end, I dont think I can go any wider w/o the rim hitting the tie rod arms. Im content with my heavy duty 8 ply narrow tires. Youre gonna enjoy all the sanding to get the rust off the rims.....I had the same challenge this summer when I did all 4, plus I had rot around the valve stems and had to repair the rot and drill new holes for the valve stems. I see the rusty front grill behind the rims.....makes me think that if only we were more laid-back and had time to waite, then we could try the Australian molassas trick......just fill up a large container with molassas and water and just soak the rusty parts in it for a couple weeks. When you pull it out, all the rust slides right off and you have shiny looking metal, ready for primer and paint. Hey......I remembered to measure my front tires today as you wanted. Im glad I did so, cause when I looked down at the tire to measure, I noticed this: The lugs were backing out, and 3 were close to falling off! Man, I am glad you wanted me to measure the distance on my front tires, otherwise I may not have noticed and lost lugs and had a tire fall off. I used the anti-seize lube on all the lugs, and I guess I just did not torque them as good as I should have. Im gonna keep my eyes on them......maybe the anti-seize lube is just too slick for this application. So, I measured the distance from tire to tire on the bottom (near the ground), and then went as high as I could. You can see in this pic that the highest I could measure is right under the radiator/hydraulic pump area, which is about 3/4 way to the top of the tire. I had about 1 3/4" more at the top than the bottom.
Xpac......Tractor Stuff may have used lugs at a good price. Can you still get new ones? Thats something that would be good to have some extra setting around just in case. My rear tire lugs were in pretty bad shape, and I put them in a vice and used die set to clean up the rust from the threads, and that made a huge difference.
mine has the 7.5 x 16 on it right now these ones are the 11lx16 and these are what i am going to try on mine.I get into a lot of loose stuff around here and the narrows sink pretty quick my neighbor has these wide ones and they seem to do better around here and the ride on his is a lot smoother than mine not that that really matters to me.That would have sucked if those lugs would of come out i have anti seize on mine to but i used a breaker bar and pipe to finish the final tighten and they seem to hold good.Thanks on the measurement now i have something to go by i will check mine tomorrow.I know they will be a bear to clean up but for these i will probably just wire wheel them clean them and paint them i usually have good luck with the 4 1/2" grinder and wire wheel.Another little trick i learnt was to paint the beads on the rims with a lot of paint for a tubeless tire i have fixed some pretty pitted beads this way.Just something to put in your back pocket!!! I think i remember about reading your post about the rim repair it was interesting.
Xpac......Yep, you better go with those super wide front blimp tires......You folks like to go ice fishing up there, so just in 'case' you take the Case out to your ice hut, and the ice begins to crack, well those fat front tires may help her float.......for a while, that is. Plus, you get that Ka-dilla-lac smooth ride.....ha ha. Yea, the wire wheel should be fine, especially on the inside which no one will ever see. For the inside, I actually used the rustoleum primer and a top coat of some paint I had laying around. I tried to be more detailed on the outside, but all those curves and hard-to-reach spots gets tiresome when your doing all 4 at the same time. Yea.....I did a thread and left a few pics of the wheel painting process.
Xpac.....thanks for the "thick paint on the rim beads" trick. I did prime and use a coat of yeller. I had told the tire shop that I wanted tubes in the back tires, but when they saw how clean the rims looked they told me I would be wasting my money. So, I listened to them and did not have the tubes put in. Guess what? One of the rear tires does have a leak someplace. Goes from 25 psi to 5 psi in about 2 weeks. I need to do the suds trick and try to find where the leak is.
Funny you say that because we have no ice here and no complaints heck yesterday it was t shirt weather here and i had told the wife while we were driving to get these rims and looking at the lakes,That i should be out in the boat with a 12 pack as the waters were calm and the fish were probably hungry Im just not that smart when i go theres usually hurricane force winds and whitecaps, but thats another story.Thats all i use is some cheap paint for the beads works better if you aint in a hurry by putting on a few coats and letting it dry before you out the tire back on.I know those tire leaks are one of my many pet peaves aint nothin worse than getting your head around a project only to find out you cant do what you set out to do because you have to stop and put air in a tire or tighten lug nuts or for no reason the steering wheel decides to fall of that day.And by the days end you got a lot done its just not what you had set out to do when you started ....At that point its time for the 12 pack hahaha
Xpac.....Well, this wamr t-shirt weather will be coming to an end down here too.....but its been nice while it lasted. Maybe you can hit the lake today and grab some fish.......but keep your eyes open cause as soon as that wind gets up, you may look up and see JustAtla flying by on his 580CK, full sails and that fading hurricane wind pushing him eastward. Maybe he will look down and see you, and bomb you with a cold beer.
68case and xpack, I'm following your progress on this thread and the others and finding it very interesting. On my machine, I replaced the front tires several years ago but stayed with the 7.50 size as I was concerned about clearance on a hard turn. It will be interesting to see how the wider rims work out. On other projects, I have had the tires dismounted and the rims epoxy primed and painted. This has worked really well and eliminated the rusting concern. We are in logging country out here and for my tires, I managed to find a set of 85% used 10 ply and had new tubes put in them. With a more than full load in the bucket or the gin pole mounted, they don't flatten down like the old ones did. Wider tires will provide a lot more floatation in soft ground and make maneuvering much easier under load. With the wider rims, you will want to be sure to keep an eye on the front spindles and well greased. Mine had not had an easy life and I replaced both spindles, all the bearings and had new ends welded onto the axle. The parts were easy to find through an Ag dealer and cheaper that way. The weather has not been co-operating here but after another 50 knot blow yesterday and lots of rain, its clam and quiet until the next one. This is our usual old November but the first series of weather we had like this for some years. Keep up the good work. I'll be interested to see how the shuttle rebuild goes for you, since I am probably headed the same way eventually. Stay warm and dry...
Juskatla......I wasnt sure what a gin pole was, so I searched and found a great thread about it.......this guy also has an old late 60s Case 580CK, and the pics show how he rigged up his gin pole. Some great pics and good tips/advice on how to make one. http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=67789.0 Hey, I bet you could mount some big sails to that gin pole and get some superb lift......up, up, up, and away!! And thats why you are opting for the wider tires.......to help on those choppy landings. Ha ha. :bouncegri:bouncegri:bouncegri :bouncegri
Jusk the only fear i have is just what you said about the spindles either bending or wearing but i have a neighbor who has the 580b and runs these wide tires but his is 8 lug with no problems and i have seen pics of our ck's with the wide tires 6 bolt.It will be interesting to see the difference the narrows like to sink in the soft ground that is another reason i want the wides.I did do a test fit yesterday and they clear the steering arms by about 2" where the narrows just cleared them.And if you do that flyover with your 580 i will have the large net to catch the beer drop haha
Well I cleaned up a bunch of parts today and actually put some paint on the side shield and wasnt impressed with the paint so i went and got some rustoleum and now im gonna paint it with this stuff and the orange is the engine paint rated for 500 deg.
chevy orange i will repaint all the orange with this
heres the yellow im using
I bought both colors at menards
cleaned up the inside of wide rims and got 1 coat on them
removed old shuttle oil sending unit for dummy light and bought a oil temp gauge for this when i put it all back together i will install it.
xpac.........:drinkup ha ha
off to the carwash with a pocket of quarters
Xpac.....Chevy Orange......thats the ticket.....I will get some for my engine too. Thanks for the pics.
Xpac.....how was your valve stem hole? Got a smooth surface for the valve stem to seat/seal good?
Xpac......The oil bath air cleaner....I found that flushing with old diesel fuel, and then soaking in old gas overnight did a great job of getting the fould crud out. I didnt use water since I could not take out the mesh, and did not think it would dry well. Man, you are fast with all the tasks you are doing at the same time!
I see you got those "U" shaped hydraulic lines that fit above the fuel tank. Im glad I took them off and painting them, as they had surface rust on the underside.....which I could never sand/prime/paint with them on the tractor. Fuel tank.....>Hey, I looked all over for that ground stub, but could not find one on my tank. Is it toward the front, or rear? And its on the bottom, right? Another question......the sediment/water trap on the bottom of the tank......Mine had become clogged up with sediment, and the only thing I could use was a wire to finally get the stuff to start flowing out, and then I think I managed to shimmy something from the top to kinda clean this sediment trap, and then flushed it with alot of diesel. That trap doesnt come off, does it?
68case, thanks for the gin pole link. I set mine vertical in the bucket, using a 6" fir pole off the beach, some well casing cut offs and welded shackles to the top cap for the lift strap and stays to the loader corner hooks. With it vertical, I can roll the bucket a bit to hook up the load and curl it back when lifting. If you are going high with one of these, set the stabilizers or be sure you are on the level to prevent a bad situation. I set all the trusses on my two buildings this way but travelling into the shop 40' with the truss above the 16 ft wall had a big pucker factor. I even sheeted and shingled the last gable before lifting it in place but was set up with the stabilizers and hoe set down. xpack, that GM orange is what I used on my axle rebuild. It is a pretty good match and has lasted pretty well. I'm interested in the yellow results as I have looked at school bus yellow like on my chipper and others but can't decide. Don't worry about bending your spindle, just make sure they are well greased and properly shimmed so they don't wallow out the axle end pieces. That's what had happened to mine and required cutting them off and welding new ones on. At least the repair ends are available and they are common with AG tractors. I'll have Santa Case do an air drop down you chimney when he goes by on the 580 pulled by Rudolf and his buddies....
68 heres a better shot with red tape on them if you dont have them maybe yours is getting ground threw something else if not i would add a ground wire to a mounting bolt.The rims are smooth and they will be getting tubes not tubless i went threw the same as you on the rears and dont want to go threw this on the front.As far as the fuel tank there is no way i see to remove that sediment bowl i am actually looking into putting that liner stuff in the tank and it comes in some kind of kit that includes a rust remover then you put the liner stuff in i am in the process of researching the different ones, i also have rust in the tank.But this will be a project of its own.I just left the bottom off my oil bath filter and washed the screen with water as it will be dry by the time i get to that point but i may follow up with some gas.
Jusk Glad to hear the orange will hold up,my spindles and bearings seem pretty tight so far and i do keep up with the grease pretty good.Although i would like to find a grease that last longer for the loader and the backhoe.Seems like this leaks out pretty quick and makes a mess.Hey jusk check out your thread you started you will see how we have figured out how to get your ck in the shop and then it kinda turned into the santa sled :beatsme Also yours is a 1968 do you have the ground lugs on the bottom of your fuel tank if so are they where mine are in the pic???
I built a boom for my kubota from a old tv antenna tower to set trusses it works pretty good i have also seen the forks that hook to the top of the bucket and uses the big hooks with a large pin like the hooks on the top of 68's bucket
Xpac......Ok, so your tank has two grounding points....interesting. Ohhhhhhhh! Now I got it! Those two nuts are for the metal half-round tubing to be mounted to.......the wiring from the dash to the genny/starter/etc runs along this half round metal tubing. I did not even think about using it as a grounding terminal too. Glad you sent this pic, as it made the light go on in my head. Will be easy to back out a nut and add a ground wire behind it. Did you also have the half round metal tubing for the wiring?
xpac.....great idea using an old tv antenna tower to make the rig. You probably saw in my prior post that I solved the riddle of the fuel tank ground lugs.
I hope i havent had you on a goose chase but when i was working on my fuel gauge my tank didnt test as having a ground and i read the tank needed to be grounded and i thought i was told this is where it is supposed to be grounded but i never had the half pipe you are talking about so i figured the previous owner just disconnected the ground that was when i hooked a ground to one of the mounting bolts but to be honest i did so much of that stuff in the process of trying to fix it i never tried to disconnect the tank ground after i got it going to see if the gauge stopped working without that ground.So you have just schooled me on why there are 2 studs there that seemed kinda odd to me but i have seen stranger things.Can you get me a pic of that 1/2 pipe mine is missing.Sorry about any confusion with this i had no idea there was this pipe there to.
Xpac......Its amazing how many little non-critical parts we all have had go awol over the course of 50 years. When the tractor gets torn in half for a clutch job or something, those little parts grow legs and take hikes. The battery case cover on mine (pretty large and important part) also grew legs and ran away. I had a piece of plywood as the battery top for 25 years, and this year finally got a new one from TractorStuff. And speak of parts disappearing, the shiny "Old Abe" eagle between the headlights seems to always grow wings and fly off after a few years. I will take a pic of the half round pipe under the fuel tank. Wish I had taken a pic when I had it off to paint it. On mine, only one nut was holding it on, and none of the wires were running inside it, and someone had tried to put the tach cable in it.
xpac......Here is a pre-restoration pic of that half round metal conduit. You can see that it is hanging down on one end, and the tach cable is resting in it. Has two flanges welded to it for the two studs under the fuel tank. As I recall, there was a groove on the inside part of the conduit for a wire to go out of it, not sure what wire that would be.
And this is why this site is so cool i never would have known its on my parts list now!!!!
Here is a pic I took today when I also did a continuity test to check to see if the tank has ground. I put one lead on any of the 4 bolts that go through the rubber tank mounts, and the other lead on either the battery ground or any good ground on the engine/frame.........and the meter beeped away telling me there was a good ground from the tank. So, apparently you do not have to run a ground wire from the tank (but it wont hurt to do, in my opinion). Would be easy to add a wire under one of those two stubs that this half round conduit bolts to. Pic on the other end, near the key switch: Yea, this is a cool site......I have gotten so much good info. from everyone....and tons of help/advice.
Xpac......In the first pic I just sent above, you will see a "black padding" around the metal hydraulic line (bottom of pic). This metal line had been rubbing against the frame and would end up bursting over time....so I checked all the lines and added pieces of rubber/and electrical tape whereever it needed it. Another bad wear spot was where this metal pipe curved and went into the pump area: I still need to find a hold down clamp for this spot. Need one like this, but with only one of the hold downs on it......more like an "L" instead of a "T".
68 thanks for the pics and as long as your getting ground on the tank i wouldnt worry about another wire did you check the round part of your fuel gauge for ground? if your not getting it there just run a jumper and see if the gauge fires up and if that dont work touch that jumper from ground to the terminal that the sending wire hooks to and the gauge should jump to full which means sending unit if it dont jump then its the gauge.I have been doing the same with mine but when room allows i take pvc pipe and cut a slot in it then cut to length and wrapit with black tape that seems to hold up good.I know you can buy those heavy duty metal 1/2 conduit clamps for your hold down just dont get the cheap ones.I was also going to tell you i went to advanced auto the other day to get a temp gauge and thought of you tach guage they had a electric tach that was about the same size as ours im not sure how you would wire it on these diesels but maybe?? if you had to down the road.Let me know what you find out on your fuel gauge.
did some painting
some more
heres some yellow
i cheated and used the sand blaster they cleaned up pretty good 1st coat
Xpac....Well, it started to rain just as I was checking continuity on the tank, and did not want to take tarps off to do any more testing on the gauge......hopefully soon. Hey....thats a good idea cutting PVC pipe and using as a buffer on those wear spots.....I never thought of that. Yep, I guess an electric tach is an option....but Im hoping the original set up will follow the example of the old Timex watch.....take a lickin, and keep on tickin.
Xpac.....Man, you are really rolling along big time!!! Your spindle bearings dont need attending to? Well, you cant do it now, but after the tractor is back together, as it takes ALOT of banging and force to break them loose. Hopefully yours are still pretty tight, and dont need replacing. Hey....I noticed your fan belt. Is it still in good shape, or were you thinking of taking the pump out and putting a new belt in while you are at it? I have been thinking going with a belt with a link to save all the work.
I see someone cut out one of your panels, but they cut both of mine out: That way the mechanic years ago did not have to remove the hydraulic lines when doing other work. It was funny that I found the cut piece of metal laying down under the hydraulic pump along with the rats nests. Using the spray paint, how many coats are you doing?
Xpac.....Hey, on those 2 yellow panels, I had some of those square nuts missing.....the ones that snap on the panels so you can send a screw tru, and not hold the nuts. I ordered 10 from TractorStuff so I would not be fighting with using nuts, lockwashers, and bolts. Like the one still on the metal in this pic......sanded, and before the primer was put on.
It was raining off and on here today to,Man i put a fan in the bedroom window last night that was a first....
so far the spindle and wheel bearing fee tight i will regrease them when im done and the belt looks good sooo?????? i dont know if i will or wont And as much as i like getting this done i want to have her done by spring so i am kinda pushing it as you know to well its a lot to do and painting along with mechanics takes a lot of time heck just gathering up all the stuff just to do it gets a little overwhelming but yea shes moving right along and i dont need her right this second but with her being down is like going fishing and not having your favorite bait it just sucks!!
Xpac......You are so right....there is so much to do, between the painting, the repairs, locating parts, etc......sometimes we both probably think that we are mad to take on such a big project......but the end results make it all worth it. Well, soon you can go fishing with your favorite bait.....the CK bait.
sandblasted and 1st coat 68 i sent you a pm alsonotice the other panel is cut out
shot of the pump remove to replace belt
a shot of the crank where the pump shaft slides into
Repainted front
So far 3 coats yellow 2 coats orange and black And i just cut my other panel today it was a pain taking off and it cant hurt so i cut it.And i am replacing the belt just because im there and i have added the clip in nuts to my list.
Another source for those square hole nuts is your local Cat dealer, see the attached list. One important note is the measurements given for the hole size and panel thickness are in MM not inches. They have them for 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch and 1/2 inch bolts. Also nice is they should be available in quantity of as little as one if you don't need ten.
kshansen Thanks for the info looks like the true name for them are spring nuts according to the chart ??
Xpac......Ha ha, heeee-hawww......So you cut out your panel. Now I wonder who on earth would have conspired and tempted you to do that? Ha ha. It does make installation easier, and removal easier for "next time".........for the other guy, not us. I cant believe how fast you roll along on this project......my hand painting with brush and roller and using the Rusteoleum was definately a time consumer vs. the cans. The black and yeller look good. On that front edge, thats where the mini roller came in handy. Hey, are you going to order an Old Abe to go between the headlights? (Be sure "Dial" of Tractor Supply sends Abe's nuts along with Abe.....those special little nuts to hold Old Abe in place.)
Xpac........The Tazmanian Devil is whirling along at break neck speed! Those clip nuts.....if you were like me, I had about half of mine missing.....so new ones were good to put back on her.
68 yea it meet the cutoff wheel.This site is a awesome one the only problem is the more i learn about my ck the lighter my wallet gets (ouch) i justified the money to the wife and told her it will pay for itself she can use her to dig my hole in the end and save tons hahaha.I have the stuff to paint with a spray gun but i didnt want to waste paint because of doing sections 1 at a time thats why the rattle cans i cant imagine doing it with a brush and roller that my friend is determination that had to be tough at times getting all those little nooks and crevises..I jut hope once shes done i dont have to mess with her for a while.
xpac......I hear you about the wallet getting lighter.....Im kinda skirrred to sit down and add all the reciepts up, but am glad she is running and looking much better......and I learned a ton about the old rig in the process. Yea, doing small sections at a time would have wasted more paint with your spray equip....plus all the multiple clean-ups. I had good luck not cleaning the brush/roller, but just adding a bit of thinner and keeping in plastic bags sealed with rubber bands.....and often just pour this thinned paint back into the next batch, which needed some thinning anyway. Waste not, want not.....right? ROPS.....I was thinking and wanted to mention this to you.....The total height of the ROPS on the tractor is up there.....I think over 10 feet. So you need a high garage door to get her in after putting the ROPS on.....is that going to be a problem for you? I wish my Rops had pins and hinges so I could flip it backwards to get her into the garage......(if I worked for Case back then, that may have been an option).
68 just a tip on the storing paint brush and rollers between coats without cleaning my mom taught me a trick put them in a ziplock and throw them in the freezer and thaw them just before the next use.....works good... Ok 68 im not building another barn i just did that this summer :bash:bash hahaha But on a serious note will you measure from the ground to the top of you rops i only have 10' door right now that i get her in and i have to layout my backhoe until i get her in there if i had to i would do as you said and hinge it somehow please let me know height thanks.
Xpac........I need the sound of a drum roll..............................................maybe this one will work: :duh:duh ......more drum roll........ The answer to the question of how tall the ROPS is.......................drum roll.......................... 9 feet in the back, a bit less than 9 feet in the front........So, you can get her in your 10 foot garage doors.......all good......no hinges needed. :drinkup Hey....thats a unique idea about freezing the paint brushes in zip loc bags.....good idea.....probably better with latex water based paints, but maybe not oil based?
68 Actually i do it with the oil base only as the latex is easy to wash out with a hose i have even threw those little rollers in the little roller pan and frooze the whole thing give it a try you will be suprised....And im glad to know she will fit in the barn Thanks I would hate to think my first project would be to dig a trench in the door opening haha
Xpac.....hey, thats great to know the freezer technique works with oil based paint.....I will try it next time. Learn something new every day on this site. Yea, you wont be digging a trench in front of your garage door.....she will fit.
I will show ya when you make it to michigan to practice on mine hahaha i couldnt resist.
Yea man.......I guess practice makes perfect. If it werent for the long commute, I might take you up on the offer.
The new meats for the front
My homemade rops ahhh ok my rain sun blocker notice hole and silver tape that was from about a 6" cherry tree branch that speared it when i was pushing over the tree after digging the roots i was pushing the tree with the backhoe when i heard the thud behind me since that almost dracula spear i had begun to remove so i could see up the tree before i pushed anymore over this is one reason im going to a rops system. That would have been a big not in the head and it definitely woke me up.
shot of the tans shaft
trans
shift fork assembly
Those new "meats" for the front are nice.....I bet they cost more per pound than the best steak you can find. Ha ha.
Xpac.......Yep, now I see why you will be driving south to pick up the ROPS from "Dial"........the ROPS steel can definately protect you in many ways.....logs rolling past the bucket, roll overs, and those nasty spears from the cherry tree.
Yea man the green is flying off the money tree but at least its landing in a good spot...
Xpac.....On the shift fork top, are you going to use a new gasket, or just use some blue rtv gasket maker? 3/4 of my old gasket was still good, so I just added some silicone all the way around, and a bit more on one side.
Just be careful to have thick bags. I got into trouble with the inhouse "goverment" when some paint leaked into one of the freezer plastic bins and ruined it.
Seatwarmer just tell her you have no idea what happened :beatsme and use that area to frost your beer:drinkup
Urm, something else frosted for a while . It does not help to blame it on the dogs
haha i understand !!!:naughty
Seatwarmer.......ha ha.....funny.....:lmao:lmao
Mounted the meats on the rims and greased wheel bearings and installed this side now painting the other side
look at the clearance difference between the tires and steering arms i like the new
Xpac......Nice set of wheels!!!! Mann, those tires are SWEEET!!!!! I want a pair!!!! :notworthy
This sediment bowl which is non removable has been on my mind the past few days as to what it really does the only thing that makes since to me is its not a sediment bowl but a water trap and you can drain water that settles in it anyone else have any idea what it may be for ??????
xpack, Yes, its a water trap. On mine, I added a hose the runs out to the side and I drain a little fuel off into a coffee can after the tractor has been sitting. The shutoff on mine has a hose nipple so in order to do something similar, you may need to change or adapt the fitting. Your primary and secondary filters will take care of any water or sediment that goes down the fuel line.
Jusk......thats a great idea putting a hose on it so all that mess does not go all over the tractor. I wish these rascals were bolted onto the belly of the tank so we could remove and clean them real good. Mine was so clogged up with sediment that I had to push a wire up into the hole and keep twisting it to finally get her to flush out, then I cleaned the inside of the tank the best I could and flushed with diesel. Also, an old-fashioned glass bowl trap that you can see thru would have been nice here. I think the owners manual says to drain some off daily before operation.
Thanks JUSK yours has a hose nipple on your valve hmmmm im gonna add one some how to mine now.I had never drained mine i guess i never really thought about it im glad i brought this up i will be flushing my tank as well but imalso going to try some kind of liner to stop the rust my feed line has plugged twice when it gets low on fuel so im going to resolve it now.Thanks
Water trap and drain fitting I drained my fuel again today and just used this drain and hose. In the pics the fuel hose runs down below the frame on the left side. Its less cluttered there and easy to put a fuel can or pail under to drain a little or a lot.
Thanks for the pics JUSK i get it now im starting to think maybe just put a barb on the tank then run a hose to wherever then put in a small ball valve and make it a bigger id hose than the original so bigger stuff will come out (rust) what do you think
got the other side painted
the other side finished
removed dash and going to weld up small holes not going to be used
If you look at the fitting on the water trap drain, you may be able to put a hose nipple on that and then run hose or pipe out to somewhere easy to access and add the valve on the end. Bigger diameter would make it drain better but until I have my tank out, I won't have any idea of what will fit. Most auto supply places have a big selection of stuff that would work. The only consideration of putting the valve on the end of the hose would be having stuff settle in it and be compacted by the vibration of the engine during operation. That would end up being plugged solid unless you drain it daily. Your results may differ...
Anybody have a dash with a lower left panel like this one on the right mine seems to be gone on the left i see holes where one would mount if you have a pic that would be great thanks
I'll get you a pic in daylight. The panel on the right holds the keyed ignition switch. There isn't any on the left on mine, and believe there was never any fitted although mine has the same holes as yours, nothing was there when I bought it. I have to look at the Operators Manual, likely at the house, later tomorrow.
We must have a twin tractor i went and looked at 68's and his dash dont look like this one at least at the bottom i dont see where his would have these bolt pieces. My right one is where the ignition switch was mounted to. But man it sure looks like theres one missing on the left maybe that would have been for light switches ???
Dash in the Dark xpack, Here's mine... I have the same holes on the left as yours. The Operators Manual may show something. I have a photo copy here, but have cleaned up the shop and can't find anything. When I get back home tomorrow, I'll look at the original.
Xjpac.....I see the filter on the left side of the engine.....Im trying to remember.....your shuttle filter? You think it would be easier to slap a new filter in now instead of fighting the tight space later? Orange looks great! I see the oil pan and all the slots for the bolts. I have a few bolts missing, but no sign of leaking at all. I need to pick up a handfull of these oil pan bolts, but need to take one out to get the right size. I also bought an oil pan gasket from "Dial" at TractorStuff to have on hand. I got a valve cover gasket too, but when I adjusted the valves, the old one was in perfect shape, so I kept it on. Hey....do you have any wear/slop in those power steering ball joints? Mine are worn and need replacing......I bought new ones, but need a special tool to pop the old ones off.......a job to be done in the future.
Hey Xpac........if you plan to add any flashing lights or ROPS lights, those little holes are perfect for mounting small toggle switches: You could wire in the switches and just have the wires accessible thru the center rectangular plate and add the lights in the future. They also make small switch "covers" for the toggle switches that keep water out and prevent you from breaking the toggle switch.......I should have put them over the toggles. Boy, you have alot of holes in that dash!
I have new filters ordered im changing them all while there easy access yea that on is for the shuttle.As far as those joints mine are still good but i would think a good pickle fork would pop them if not i think harbor frieght has a puller that will work fairly cheap.
xpac.....I looked in the frig beside the dill pickles, but could not find my pickle fork........Im always misplacing it, dern it! Im in a real pickle now!
xpac......Hey, yesterday I gave the block heater a try. During the night the temp fell to around 20, and it was around 35 when I plugged her in. Could hear that faint sound of water heating, and tried starting her about an hour later. I did not even use the intake manifold heater, and she cranked up in about 1/3 of a second......and had been sitting for a week. Getty Up, Hi Ho Silver, Away!
Awesome i hope mine does just that as far as the mani heater i find that about worthless but im leaving it on mine as its already there
Didnt get a lot done but got the rough in weld in the holes still need to grind and refill and grind again until she is smooth
xpac.....thats an impressive start.......What type welder did you use? Tig? Submerged Arc? Or will a plane jane wire fed mig do that?
xpac.....would it have been possible to tac-weld say some electric box 'knock-out' plugs to the inside of the dash to cover the holes, then fill in the crater with weld? For those who dont have "Sparky" for a middle name, I guess they could put some duck-tape on the inside, and then use our ole standby "J. B. Weld" to fill the void. (I see the 5 gallon bucket of hot oil being hurled at me from the Hot Oil in Face Club). ha ha.
Wire welder and i could have welded in plugs but instead put a piece of brass on back side of holes and welded her up weld and brass dont like each other old trick i learnt ...Watch out for the hot oil....
xpack.......Mann, thats using the ole bean.......brass on the back to hold the weld in. Always got a good card up your sleeve.
This little Bantam 450 wants to grow up to be just like it's big brothers. F ound this for sale on Craigslist this past August. Located near Denton, Tx.
bet its fun to run
xpack, I looked all through the Operators Manual and the Parts Catalog for pictures of anything mounted under the left side of the dash and found nothing. I'm not sure if this same sheet metal was used on Farm type tractors of the same vintage, but can confirm the Industrial tractors don't show anything added there. Nice job on filling the extra holes. I have a copper paddle that we use for backing up small areas that need to be closed up. The handle makes it easier to hold there without getting burned in the process.
Hey Jusk good idea with the handle i may need to do that with my brass it does get hot. I am on the hunt for a piece for that left side piece if i find one i will let you know if their even out there and if i cant find one i will fab one up.68 turned me on to a guy named Dale at tractorstuff.com and i will tell you he is very nice to deal with he seems to be going out of his way to help me with parts and questions and he is very knowledgeable about these tractors and seems to be more than willing to share his knowledge and his prices seem fair as well.He is looking for that part for me as well,I do believe he ships parts to you to.I will hopefully be going this week and getting my parts from him he is only about 3 hrs away from me and he has a rops im going to buy from him.So i will go pick that and a bunch of parts up from him but he said he would ship anything i need later to me...
Xpac/Juskatla.......you talking about that space under the left bottom of the dash panel? In the pic, thats where I rigged up the extra oil pressure gauge....there was an existing screw hole that I used, no drilling needed. I asked Dale at Tractorstuff, and he was no aware of any metal plate that goes here. But it would be nice to keep out wasps and mud-dobbers.
68 yep thats it there are holes there like their should be one there i have Dale looking for one for me right now if he dont come up with one i am going to build one i amt hinking that would be a great spot for toggles for lights as it sets back some i actually broke the lever of one of my old switches because it stuck out.Another thing i am starting to look for is a mechanical backup bell that bolts on the rear wheel.My neighbor who just bought his 580b has one on it and he had to school me on it because i had not idea there was such a thing out there i knew about electric ones its not that osha is going to fine me for not having one but after seeing his its just really mechanical looking and neat so im on the hunt.For me i like the older stuff obviously and man someone back then put a lot of thought into building this bell its pretty cool.
heres a pic of a bell
Xpac........Before I read your comments I looked at that nice yeller wheel with that mess going on in the middle, and was thinking, "Man, that looks like 4 sets of ignition points mounted to the tire". I guess you would roll-start the tractor....get her rollin down a hill, and those points would start opening and closing, and you would pop the clutch and the ole 4 cylinder would fire right up. Surely, this tractor was owned by Nicola Tesla. That is the coolest thing I have ever seen! I never new they made a mechanical back-up bell for the rear tire. If Dial finds anymore, I might be interested in one too.
It is pretty mechanical and i have a passion for stuff like that,Dale dont have one but he sent me a link www.signalguys.com/p/BKA.html but that bell has internal strikers and i want the external ones like the pic.I am on the hunt now if i locate them i will let you know.
Heres a pic of my seat post and mount which i have never really understood it turns and lifts like its supposed to but i guess the thought was when you release the forward back lever you would raise yourself as you go back and lower as you go forward???? Thats like the big spring that goes into the pipe mount im not sure what purpose that serves unless it is a assist so when you raise the seat.
Never saw one with the external hammers. Back in the day back-up alarms were "new tech" we used a lot of those with the inside hammers, also had some that worked of the driveshaft of trucks. They had a tire like ring around the outside that ran on the driveshaft. A few years back while cleaning out a storage trailer tossed out at least half a dozen of the wheel mounted ones that were still in the factory boxes! I'm hoping that picture of the wheel with the alarm has a scratch on it and is not really cracked along the bead by the valve stem!
KSHAN it is just a scratch.I have seen pics of the internal hammer type but there kinda plain for what im looking for theres just something about the one in the pic that i like must be all the moving parts.From what i see on ebay there asking about $50.00 for the ones you threw out tell the garbage man you want them back haha hect i never heard of the driveshaft one you mentioned either it pretty neat what used to be done.
xpac.....10-4.
Xpac.....Your seat frame/assembly is different than mine. I have the same spring loaded shaft with those dents for the seat to lock in one of them.....up position, or down position, and maybe one in-between. I think you are right.....the spring loaded shaft helps the operator raise the seat up as he is reconfiguring it to the backhoe operation. Would have been neat to have it hydraulically operated, but then again, a mis-adjustment could send someone thru the roof like 007 and the injector seat.
Xpac, I have the same seat as yours. When I replaced the seat with a generic China tractor seat, I bolted a plate on and mounted the new seat to that. On my setup, I adjust the seat location for comfort driving and it works fine for the backhoe position. The spring makes it easier to unlatch, raise and swing around but I stand up before moving anything. Old school just like our machines and a few of us...
68 only threw my sunblocker roof but the metal roof ouch headache... and im pretty sure the spring is for that... Jusk Thanks for the tip about the plate that what i will probably do as well I spoke to Dale at tractorstuff today its looking like wed i will be making a run for some goodies.That guy is very pleasant to deal with i keep coming up with things i need as i go and throwing it at him and he just gets it done and is very friendly i am with 68 (Dale) is highly recommended in my book.And if you dont know what you need like seals parts ect... Dale seems to know and he dont treat you like hes superior to you because he knows and you dont like a lot of others in the business do.Just a great guy to deal with.....
xpac/juskatla......Since you are talking about a flat plate to mount the seat, I found a pic of when I was painting the flat plate before mounting the new seat......A very simple flat plate: And the seat I got from "Dial" at TractorStuff, I was surprised that the bolts lined up perfectly with these 4 holes.....no drilling whatsoever. Yep, Dale will go out of his way to help.......he even took the time to create for me the entire parts list of all the ORings and part numbers that I would need to rebuild the entire backhoe hydraulic valve tower. I used my parts book, and verified what he had, and he was right on......and showed me that certain copper orings could be re-used instead of paying the high price for them. Thus, the entire Oring rebuild kit for around $40. Dale offered to give me some tips if I decided to adjust my valves, and I called him a couple months later while I had the valve cover off, and he remembered my voice and gave me the time to answer my questions. Superb guy to do business with.
Xpac......One could easily use this for a :bouncegrifrying pan.....just put a metal bucket of hot coals under it, adjust the seat height for your heat setting, get the skillet hot, and then pour on the pancake batter, eggs, and Jimmy Dean sausage. Ummmmm ummmmm, good!:bouncegri :lmao
Yea there ya go but you wouldnt get no work done because you would have the neighbors over wanting a bbq.
Hey JUSK how thick of a plate did you use to bolt your seat to???That is probably what i will do but i dont want to add anymore weight than necessary
As long as they bring their own sausage and eggs.
Xpac......The thickness of the steel plate depends on the thickness of your waiste.......ha haaaa. The plate in the pic above is about 1/4" thick. Juskatla.......Is your seat post off-centered like the one in the pic above?
xpack, Its just a piece I had, light gauge , maybe 1/8 as it only provides an adapter between the stock seat bolt holes and whatever you can buy. My seat is due to be replaced and I will try to find something from the aftermarket. Compact tractor seats found at most farm and tractor type places will work. Mine was around $100 and when on sale up here can be cheaper (like me).
If thats the case it will get thicker every year haha
sounds good i am going to replace my seat as well thinking i will get on from Dale thanks
Xpac......In that case, maybe you better weld a couple steel I-Beams under that flat steel plate.......just in case. Ha ha.
heres the left lower dash cover like My dad said if ya cant buy it build it
smoothed out the welded holes on dash
Because i named her this i have to put these stickers on her i wonder if i can clear coat over these sticker to protect them ???/
Xpac.....Mannn, you are good! You tha man! You mention you want to do something, and you dont mess around.......you get her done. As Ross Perot used to say, "Talk is cheap, Just Do It!" Thats you for sure. Great job. So, you first bent the cardboard to fit and used the cardboard as a tracer to make the metal. Cut the metal, and then make the bends. Brilliant! You gotta show that to "Dial", I think he would be impressed. He makes the battery cover/floor pan for the CK for anyone who is missing one (like me). He may want to make a few of these to keep on hand to sell, who knows. Gonna drill some holes for toggle switches? Or maybe a cigar lighter?
Xpac.....Great job on filling those holes. Ready for primer and paint.
Xpac.....Clear coat over Marie Laveau? Seems to me it would seal it and make it last for years. I wondered the same about clear coating over the Case lettering I just put on.
I am thinking toggles for lights it will set them back into the dash so i aint bumping them and breaking them off
im hoping someone weighs in on this that knows i would like to know for sure
its close to being done got al little more fine tuning to do .Going to see Dale tomorrow gonna be a long day
Good luck on the long drive down to TStuff.....hope you can fit everything on in one load. Tell "Dial" that I said that Old Abe is so much happier to have his nutz back......ha ha. Have a good trip.
the new sun/rain blocker
santa case delivered well not quit but time to get busy after xmas
Xpac......Bravo, bravo, bravo! You made it down to TractorStuff and back in one piece......or, more like a bunch of pieces. The ROPS looks to be in great shape.....and pre-wired with a ton of lights to boot. I tell you, Dale at Tractor Stuff is the best parts supplier that I have ever dealt with.......he goes the extra mile to help answer any mechanical questions and has new and used parts at great prices. Not many around like him anymore.
Xpac.....Is that a front grill I see in the Santa Case? Was the original grills like this, or with flat bars like mine? I guess they changed for your model year and went from horizontal bars to the round hole pattern. Hey, did you pic up the silver bird? "Old Abe"?
Heres what i have to say about Dale AWESOME AWESOME AND AWESOME He knows how to take care of his customers very knowledgeable and friendly it has been a long time since i have dealt with someone like him....Highly recommended Tractorstuff.com
no silver bird yet the grille if i remember right on the ck was the type like yours i just wanted the one with the holes and i think its from a 530
Yep.......If his business sold stock on the exchanges, it would be a good one to buy. Awesome guy, Awesome business.
Here we go with the shuttle rebuild got her spread out on the bench
Here are the (old left) (new right) friction disc i dont really see where the old are bad but while its split i wanted new.
this is the clutch hub that is in the shuttle notice the 3 springs that are messed up
the tear down of the clutch hub remove retaining ring
Then i removed all the clutch discs only because i am putting in new if you were going to use your old ones this step is unnecessary
remove this part i dont know its name but it sits on top of the springs
heres what is left what a bunch of busted springs
xpac......I wonder if you measured the thicknesses, if the new one is any thicker. If not much difference, then you have an an emergency back-up by saving the old one.
now i know where these came from busted clutch hub springs
xpac.....didnt you post a pic of the oil you drained, and it had what could have been a piece of one of these springs? Those messed-up springs are probably the only problem you were having.
Wow......Its amazing your shuttle was working at all. Did you get new springs with the rebuild kit?
68 your right thats what they were and i wish i knew exactly what it is these springs do for sure i am researching their purpose
cleaned out clutch hub ready to put in new springs and clutches
new springs and springs part # from tractorstuff.com
cover back on top of new springs
installed new clutch disc and oiled everyone as they are wet clutches and i dont want her started dry
retainer ring that holds down the plate that is on top of the springs
fabricated spring plate compressor so i could install retainer ring worked good
clutch hubs are assembled
these were separate from the kit The part # is in the pic there are 6 spring per hub 12 total.I sure hope someone weighs in here and can give a good explanation of what these springs are doing exactly.....
Xpac......No slowing you down.....your making great progress, and teaching all of us alot with the great pics and documentation. Maybe the springs have something to do with the clutch discs meshing with the right pressure from forward to reverse???
yea i dont know if there for that or to help them release im still trying to figure it out one things for sure all 6 on the forward and 6 on the reverse hubs were all busted up whatever purpose they serve they werent working.
Good Bad Right Or Wrong the shuttle is back together lots of snap rings and a few sealing rings.If i had to do over i would have the parts on hand before tearing down for memory reasons lets just say good thing i had pics and my new manual looks broke in on the shuttle page haha
another shot
on to the shuttle valve
the tear down
valves removed from top plate
I believe this ball and spring is the detent for forward nuetral reverse valve and it goes in this hole just below the ball in this pic ball drops in first then the spring
good shot of ball and spring in hole
middle plate removed
xpac.......so, with greasey fingerprints all over the new manual pages, and all that head-scratchin, did you figure out what purpose those springs served? If so, could it have been improper use of the shuttle years gone by, or running with low fluids, to cause the springs to fail? It looks good sitting there.......hope she is a smooth operator when all back together.
bottom plate removed notice screen on tube partially plugged
another shot of screen
xpac.....that valve assembly is pretty complex. I like your comment, "I believe" the ball and spring go in the center hole. You are right......taking pics during the process of disassembly helps a ton when putting the pieces back together. Hopefully the manual agrees with the ball and spring in the center position. But Im thinking the spring goes in first, and then the ball rides on the other end......but Im probably backwards.
Screen on tube.........So thats the screen/tube that everyone complains about........the one where they drill a hole and install a plug beneath it so they can easily stick a toothbrush inside to clean it in the future. Does that small gear at the top run a pump to suck up the fluid?
debris in torque tube where pickup screen is located
I think low oil and heat did the damage and probably just being like me (OLD) wore them out i think the help with the disengagement of the clutches but i still aint real sure.
I know it goes in this hole but im pretty sure it is the detent for f/n/r valve the ball goes in first as it rides on the spool (valve) for the f/n/r.
Yea this is the dreaded screen that plugs up and that gear meshes with a gear on the torque converter and then it is hooked to the shuttle pump which sucks up the oil from that screen thats why when the screen plugs you cant move the tractor it cant pump the shuttle oil.I will probably drill a hole below the screen threw the torque tube and tap it for a plug to access the screen at a later date.That small gear on the pump has a woodruff key that hooks it to the pump shaft and when i first got this tractor that woodruff key was broke thats why my tractor wouldnt move when i got it my clutch pressure read 0 psi after replacing the woodruff and cleaning screen it read 180psi.
I have not worked on a Case transmission but that clutch assembly with the aluminum drum in the center looks close to the ones in the old Hough transmissions. I would say that those springs are to push the drum back away from the clutch disks when changing gears. A nice cutaway view of the assembly would make it easier to be sure. I bet someone will chime in with a better idea.
kshansen I think they are also there to help release the clutches the funny thing is i never had a problem shifting gears the only time it would try to grind going into gear was when i had it idled to high unless, because of the way they were positioned after being broke maybe they were actually holding the clutches apart enough to not affect shifting into a gear.
Did a little digging and found a cut-a-way view of this shuttle shaft. As I thought it looks like those springs are what pushes the drums back that apply the clamping pressure to clutch plate when that clutch is not engaged. I have circled the springs in the image . The oil pressure coming down the shaft will move the drums in one direction or the other depending on which clutch is being activated. And looking closer at this clutch arraignment in this Case I'm thinking the person who designed this one also worked on the design of the Hough transmissions. If you look at the three seal rings to the right end of the shaft you can see how the oil flows down through the shaft to engage the different clutches. If you use a blow gun with a rubber tip and plug off the other holes in between one pair of rings you can see the pistions move and clamp the clutches.
Xpac.....Ok, you had the shuttle pump apart before, and the fix was the woodruff key. Those simple woodruff keys can cause alot of issues when they wear down or break.
kshansen......Pretty neat design. So, when the shuttle selector is in "Forward", the fluid flows to the forward motion side, and the other side has its clutch "activated", or kinda in neutral position. Sliding the selector to "Reverse" does the opposite, allowing the tractor to go backwards. With the selector in Neutral, both clutches are "activated", and there is no motion and all fluid flows past the shuttle system. Maybe Case reverse-engineered the design after the crew pulled apart the Hough tranny? Or the other way around. If we dig deeper, this could be the design found in the downed Roswell craft in 1947, and passed to Case by Lt. Colonel Corsey.
Kshansen i wish i knew how to read these prints better than i do i am just not that good at it.But after your image i found a color print of it in my manual and i think im starting to see what your are talking about i sure appreciate you going the extra mile to do this now i can see what these are doing.Thankyou
The hood is done except decals
converter pressure regulator valve
The free length of the torque converter pressure relief valve spring is supposed to be 1.375 mine cam up short so i will replace it with new
shuttle spools and relief valve removed from shuttle block
resealed and reassembled shuttle valves
this is the crud that came off the pickup tube screen for the shuttle pump mine wasnt plugged all the way but i had it out a few years back and it was clean then
after cleaning
shuttle pump removed
this is where pump mounts and the old seals
pump and pickup tube mounted back to plate
on to the torque converter to reseal and inspect
empty torque tube if you look close you inside can see where there are threaded holes that is what the converter bolts to
View attachment 147153 torque converter tear down
View attachment 147154 4 jackbolts installed ready to split
View attachment 147155 notice drain plug between white lines
Xpac.....Thats some great pics you have been posting, and very detailed. Now I can see that the pick-up tube's screen is on the side AND on the bottom......I had thought prior that the screen was only on the bottom of the tube. This design is much better, but still needs that hole drilled in the case to clean the debris off. All your pics and posts are going to immensely help the next guy do these repairs. Good color pic of the fluid flowing in the shuttle......I can see how it slides back n forth to Forward or Reverse, along with the fluid flow.......but still a complicated little gadget. I still betcha a silver doller that this was reverse-engineered from the Roswell craft of 1947....ha ha.
the tear down begins
basically this was tore apart for inspection and to replace these sealing rings there are 2 in above pic and 1 in pic below although everything looked ok in mine i replaced these rings anyways
Here she is back together.Hopefully this is the last of the tough stuff.I had toyed with the idea of putting a plug below my pickup tube screen but after doing a little more research and some thinking about i think im not going to do that i would hate to start developing a crack in the torque tube and hopefully with me having it all cleaned out and me maintaining it there wont be a problem with it .To bad they didnt do that from the factory but the fact is it has worked for 45 yrs this way.
you can also see the big seal here between the flywheel and torque converter
Xpac......In your pic posted at 7:51 pm, is the bearing still in good shape, or did you pick up a new one to replace it? Would you clean and then pack it with regular lithium grease, or does the oil contact it and lube it? Youre posting some great pics......the next guy who does this will have the icing on the cake if they see your thread before they do the work. Pic 7:37......so, thats the little screw plug that others have spoken about, to unscrew to drain the fluid. Maybe brush on some glow-in-the-dark paint on the plug so you can see it easy when looking up thru the outer hole. All the teeth/gears and everything looks to be in great shape.
68 all the bearings looked good and there is a brass bushing in the converter as well there is only 1 in there and that also looks good and the **** that rides n it mics out good as well Dale had told me to mic the shaft at 12:00 and 6:00 position then mic the 3:00 and 9:00 and as long as its within a few thousands of each other im good to go and they were within that so im good.The bearings oil from the hy trans shuttle oil and i might pour some in the drain plug for them before i reinstall the converter in the torque tube.Good idea for paintig the plug i think i will now that you mentioned it cant hurt thats for sure.
Here is a shot of one of the sealing rings that are used in the shuttle and the torque converter notice the hooks on the ends of the ring this breaks off real easy dont ask how i know but these rings are a lot like a piston ring they are just as brittle as piston rings but they have the hooks on the ends so you can hook the ring together after it is in its groove that it goes in.There are 3 of these in the torque converter and in the rockford shuttle there are 4 inside and 3 on the mainshaft (the snout of the shaft that fits in the torque tube) All of these but 2 are easy to install as you have easy access to the whole ring but there are 2 in the shuttle that will make you use the bad word vocabulary words to try to get the hooks latched together the groove is not easy to get at but it is obviously doable just be carefull and have sme help with these 2.Look at ring below and you can see on one end you will see the hook broke off the ring.
Here is the tool of choice for removing the type of snap rings that are used in the shuttle and torque converter the used the ones with the holes for regular snap ring pliers and the snap rings with no holes if you do this project get you a pair of these you wont regret it.
One more thing if you can find one and you are going to take pics of your progress and post them on here you need to find a camera thats oil proof by the time you finish this project your camera will be very well lubricated :spaz:spaz:spazhahaha
xpac.....more great info. and pics. Those snap rings are pretty scarrey.....thats the first thing I thought of when I looked at the pic....those small ends could snap off pretty easy. Surely "Dial" has a few extra in stock. Yep, my camera got a few smears and drops of oil on it too. Your camera can soon join the Hot Oil in the Face Club that we already signed up to.
xpack, Great progress. The pliers for those snap rings are the same as used for a lot of automatic transmission work. I inherited a couple of SnapOn pairs from my father who had them in his tools that my brothers and I shared between us. When and if I get that far, his hands will guide me. I'm not sure how you would deal with them without a suitable pair. The shuttle clutch springs are definitely to disengage the packs. It will be very interesting to see how it behaves once you have reassembled and running again. I would be happy to progress at half the speed you have been making. Thanks for scouting ahead for the rest of us and posting pictures of the action.
That picture looked very familiar to me. Had to go on SIS for Cat parts and sure enough that is the same style converter as we used to have in many of the 966C Cats. One problem we had with them was the vanes in the stator(the steel part held on with the bolts that go through that plate in the persons hand in the picture)would sometimes get loose and you could feel the parts work back and forth. Not sure if we were just lucky but never had on totally fail. But did replace several over the years. Just another interesting thing watching this rebuild. Clutches that look like ones in a Hough loader and a converter looking like one out of a Cat! I do believe the converter is actually made by Twin-Disc Company for both these and probably many others.
Jusk thats funny you say that about the pliers as this pair was in my dads box for years and now have been in mine for years and i dont think either of us had ever used them i almost forgot about having them and yea everytime i grab one of his old tools i remember us working on stuff like this together some tools i remember the project we used them on and i sure do miss that.Hopefully im done with the stuff that is out of my comfort zone i installed the converter back into the torque tube today and it sure feels good to know shes going back together finally
Kshansen This torque converter is a twin disc and the shuttle is rockford which from what i have read im glad the shuttle wasnt a twin disc i have heard they are tougher to rebuild and for someone like me the rockford was hair pulling enough after doing these now it makes me wonder how much thought went into building these in the first place.For me this was kinda like trying to rebuild a automatic tranny which i have never successfully done i just replaced them but if it is a manual tranny no problem.Thanks for your help in making sense of this.
heres a shot of that seal kinda flat and obviously round
torque converter reinstalled in torque tube glad to see it going this way
final coat of paint for this
anyone know what would have mounted here originally maybe flashing lights ???
xpac....My hand mixed yeller is real close to the yeller you found (school bus yeller?) Looks like you have passed the half way mark, are putting the pieces back together, and soon you will see the light at the end of the tunnel:
Xpac......those holes you are pointing too, I was wondering about also. When I bought new flasher lights for the rear fenders, they do fit perfectly into these front holes (the OD of the threaded light insert fits perfectly into these holes). So, I am guessing that maybe the farm tractors had optional flasher lights or maybe more work lights? Some of the experts will know.
68 Hard to tell if the colors are different from pics but it looks to be close to ol Greased Lightning.I ended up scraping the school bus yellow for the old caterpillar yellow it has more of a orange tint to it but it is yellow.It is good to know that she is going the other way now pretty anxious to hear her run and see her move again
Yep.......My "Greased Lightnin" yeller is very close to your Cat Yeller, which will be a great background color for your "Voodoo Queen Marie" stickers.
wait till you add some orange it will wake up the yellow wasnt you going to do that pretty soon???
xpac.....I will try to shoot some orange on the engine this spring/summer. As you say, that will "wake up" the yeller on Greased Lightnin. I expecting this summer weather in Va. to come to a close real soon......and winter to hit hard.......as in too cold to paint.
68 are you sure you can resist until summer ol "Greased Lightning" is probably out there crying :crying:crying:crying:crying:crying:crying at you to add a touch of orange to her, besides a touch of orange may warm her heart and bring summer sooner. haha
Xpac......Maybe youre right.....Get that orange on her, and I wont need to plug in the block heater on cold mornings, as that orange will "warm her heart". ha ha hee haww. Wish I had a taller garage door like you do so I could get her inside beside a wood stove :stirthepot and do this type of work in the winter. Actually, I already have some old trusses and want to build a shelter to get the 9 foot tall Greased Lightnin into. :slomo :stirthepot
Maybe next week will be better to add that touch of orange not only warming her heart but just think what that warmth would do for ol Abes nuts:falldownlaugh:falldownlaugh As long as ol Dial dont put the brakes on
Xpac......thats hillarious! :lmao :lmao Laughing my head off about Ole Abe's nuts getting warmed by the fire. I will be sure to park the front of the tractor (where Old Abe has his roust) close to the hot fire. For those who think we are crazy, Old Abe is the bird between the headlights: When I got Old Abe from Dial at Tractor Stuff, he forgot to send the mounting nuts. So, he sent Old Abe's nutz in the mail, and I was able to put Old Abe up on his roust between the headlights. Just one of those funny events that adds some life to these greasey restoration projects. Yep, we are crazey too.
reinstalling shuttle pump,pickup tube,and shuttle valves
this is what the pickup tube screen should look like
dont forget ball and spring
this part of assembly is done
my balancing act
this is the gasket the goes between the engine and the bell housing when i removed my torque tube (Bell Housing) there was no gasket it was like a spray on gasket very thin film of ??? theres a gasket now same with the starter gasket
torque tube,steering column,starter,ect...reinstalled
painting window frame prepping for new window install for rops
1968 Case 580CK, Looks like XPACKDEALS is getting close. Maybe you should run your Case over there for him to go through while all the details are fresh in his head.
xpac......Great Job! Hey, that little vent cap has a filter underneath it. Im sure you probably cleaned it out, but just in case you may want to double check. The vent filter on my CK was clogged up with mud-dobber nests all around the filter. Good quality factory filter inside....just clean it in diesel.
xpac........good lookin Dog Gasket.......thats either a huge gasket, or a wee-bit of a dog.
Kshansen........Yea Man!! This sounds like the plan! Xpac.......you got room by the wood stove for Old Abe?
kshansen i would do everything i could but if were relying on my memory were in trouble especially by the time 68 gets her from Virginia haha
68 yea i seen that filter mine was still clean from the 1st time i repaired that woodruff key i did clean it again.Thats our little dog she hangs out with me in the barn from time to time i just wish i could get her trained to turn wrenches for me haha And you bet i would make room for any member of the oil bath brotherhood and the woodburner will be stoked with a cold one in the fridge...
xpac.....Thats a Big 10-4 from my back door, says Old Abe.
xpackdeals, just don't let that dog start "helping" like my late dad's dog did one time he was changing tires on his car. Little dog was coming around off and on during the job then when dad went to remount the wheel and tire guess what was missing? Yep that little mutt had stole all the lug nuts. Dad spent a couple hours looking all over the place to find them! Guess the dog thought he was spending "quality time" with dad! Now if on of us kids had done something like that we would have been in all kinds of trouble but the dog, well it was just a funny story!
kshansen Thats funny his dog must of had some racoon in it.My dad would of probably told me i did it anyways just so i had to look for them haha I had a full blooded Bloodhound up till about a year ago when she went to dog heaven she used to hang out with me and she could lubricate anything in her path she even shook big globers on the kids she was cool.(shakin slobber)
steering wheel and handles removed i am putting new back on
Xpac.......You keep a rollin on your project.....seems there is no let-up. Im thinking you are fooling all of us, and you actually have 10 guys in your shop helping you do this project. Hey, just to let you know, "Dial" at TractorStuff has the rubber handles for the shuttle and the throttle. These are not Case brand, but fit great on the metal stems. I did not even have to use any glue.....just slide them on, and presto you got rubber grips on the handles. I think they were about $7 each.
68 I picked up a set of those handles when i was at Dales and a new steering wheel and a seat.I wish i had 10 guys i would be done with her by now but i do have a couple friends that are here when i need them and believe me im getting a little burned down on this but that wont stop me it aint done till its done..There are parts of this that are a real pain as you well know and there are parts of it thats not so bad it does feel good to finally get the things fixed that i have been wanting to take care of since i have owned it. The way i am looking at it is this will probably be the last one i will own so why not give her a total going threw besides i love this old tractor there have been 12hr days put on this tractor of hard work and when i am so beat down from the long day i swear i hear the tractor saying lets do some more for me thats pretty cool.And when it comes to working on the tractor it is way easier for me to understand than that overly expensive new stuff with all the electronics that is way to complicated.These old girls say it all after 45 years doing what they do and still perform as strong as they do pretty much justifies anything we do to them in my opinion.I have a few things im going to do to her that i just cant talk about right now but when i get them done people will probably think im crazy they are towards the end of this rebuild and will be posted then...:beatsme:beatsme:beatsme:beatsme
I bet he's going to be putting chrome rims on this tractor and park it in his living room to sit on while watching those great guys everyone loves looking for gold up in Alaska!:tong
Kshansen......Funny about the chrome rims and Xpac parking her in his living room watching those Alaskan gold diggers. I bet he bought a BarcoLounger to replace the old seat with.....fully reclining. And his TV remote will fit into one of those extra dash holes. Im real curious about the surprises he has for us at the end of this show. Maybe a beer keg mounted under his new ROPS, with a line running down to his cup holder.......one twist of a valve, and his mug is full again. Stay tuned folks.......I see some wild surprises coming our way. :drinkup:bash:bouncegri
Chrome rims, New case recliner, Tv show with heavy equipment ,And a beer count me in guys :drinkup
Got the torque tube and column painted
paint still drying on manifold will be flat black
new wheel installed with new grips
new grips
window frame done waiting for glass
1st coat on the dash
notice bottom bracket on left side
built the 4 brackets for the front of ROPS mounts will be putting rops on rear end soon and welding these to the hydraulic tanks outside then removing rops to move rearend in shop to paint and install
68 I took this pic especially for you so you could see how the orange pops with the yellow and i just gotta tell you the yellow was fresh paint and when i touched the orange to the yellow for this pic the yellow got so warm it instantly dried.:OMG:OMGSo im thinking if you was to give ol GREASED LIGHTNING a touch of that orange ol ABE might be able to take the carharts off and put his shorts on :woohoo:woohoo:woohoo:woohoo:woohoo: that being said are you sureeeeeee you can resist getting a touch of orange on her:stirthepot:stirthepot:stirthepot:
Xpac....You tha man! Yep, that orange looks damn good beside the Case yeller. Come spring, I will definately repaint the engine orange.....no doubt. Was going to paint the exhaust manifold orange too, but now I think I will go black like you did. Yep, Old Abe would have some warm knutz with that orange paint under his ass......no more Carharts. (I wonder if Dial ever has time to read our crazziness on this website....if so, I bet he is getting some good laughs). Hey....the lower left side dash looks great where you custom made the metal and attached it. Makes me remember the pain it was to install the diesel cut-off cable after putting the dash in........I needed every bit of that small opening to reach up inside and tighten the nut that holds the cut off cable tight to the dash. So, you may have to take it off before putting the cut-off cable back on the dash. That steering wheel looks superb.....much better than that old busted-up one you had. Im also wondering what you have attached to the shuttle lever, kinda like a cruise-control mechanism. What is that for? :notworthy
If Dale is reading this im sure he is getting a big laugh of it as well. I am dreading the dash assembly but i dont think it will be that bad right now with my tank being off The thing you see on the shuttle rod is a lock to lock it into neutral so when you position the shifter in neutral then it drops into a slot and holds it in neutral. Does yours have forward/neutral/reverse on the shuttle handle i just looked at the pic of yours and see now you dont have this and its gotta be something to do with yours being the mechanical shuttle and mine being the power shuttle.
xpac.....yep, this is missing on my mechanical shuttle. I have forward, neutral, and reverse, but nothing to lock her into neutral. Its a good safety idea, and maybe added after 1968. So, on mine I could put her in neutral and get off the tractor, and I suppose the handle could get "bumped" and cause the tractor to take off. But I always use the clutch when shifting the shuttle lever. It would grind the gears if you attempted to use the shuttle lever w/o the clutch. I think that on yours, you can go from forward to reverse w/o using the clutch, right? You are right....with the tank off, it should be alot easier installing the dash and engine shut off cable. I suppose that at the factory, they did it this way also......dash assembled first, then the tank installed. Hey......you gonna try to adjust the valves before putting the hood back on? If so, you may have to remove the air cleaner support bracket to have enough room for the valve cover to come off.
Yea i come to a stop and can shift without clutching.How bad is it to adjust the valves o these ????
Adjusting the valves was a piece of cake.......I think I did a seperate thread on this site about How to Adjust Valves, with some pics. I found that I could stick a big screwdriver up into the flywheel inspection hole, and rotate the flywheel to the right spot to adjust half the valves. Then, I could rotate again 180 degrees and do the other valves. A couple of mine were way off. I would not want to attempt doing the valves with the metal hood in place.
Took 68's advice and adjusted valves im glad i did there were some pretty loose thanks 68
this is a shot inside fuel tank i was having a problem with crud blocking fuel from flowing so i removed the shutoff and moisture drain and sprayed it out good with water then put a heat gun on it to dry it out and now it looks good
Xpac....did you find the proper instructions for making the valve adjustment? I could be wrong, but I thought that you turned the crank to the right spot near TDC and adjusted half the intake and exhaust valves, then rotated the crank 1 turn to TDC and adjusted the other half of the valves. Did you notice that there were no locking nuts on the valve adjustment screws? First time I have seen that. Were you able to fire her up and make sure she was pumping some oil up to the valves? I had the engine running with the valve cover off, and saw the oil coming up (no Yellowstone gusher, but enough to oil the rockers). I was tempted to slide the feeler gauge into the valves as she was running just to double check my adjustment.....but didnt. The clatter noise I had heard before making the adjustment was gone, so I left well enough alone.
fuel sending unit
mocked up the ROPS to tach weld brackets on then took rops off to put rearend back in the shop
Xpac......You must be a Miracle Worker, as Scotty would call Kirk. How in the world did you remove the welded-on moisture/sediment element from the bottom of the tank? Boy, your tank innards look fantastic......good thing about diesel fuel, keeping the metal well oiled.
xpac....thats the smart way to make sure the ROPS brackets are welded in the exact spots. Great job, and freezing your fingers off in the process. Looks brrrrrrrr cold up thar!
rearend back in shop
rops brackets tached on
The camera shot was from the sending unit opening looking towards the front of the tank if you look close you can see the round area towards the front that is where that moisture trap is located I did not remove the trap just the valve on the bottom of it
It is a little cold but not bad with the carharts on hey 68 does your roof of your rops sit down a little lower in the front than the rear it looks like this one will??
Xpac.....Just wondering if you left any extra tolerance/clearance on those bolt holes in the brackets. Once the ROPS is sitting in place and ready for those bolts, you may need an extra 1/16 or 1/8 slop to get them in.....maybe, maybe not....what do you think? Gonna try to get a long weld on the inside of the brackets, or just the outside? Probably one side is enough, but knowing you, you will have a professional weld on the inside too. But looks kinda tough to get to, unless you used an old stick weld, or can the mig fit in there? Whats that square post welded on the Tyler and Jessica's dinner table for?
Xpac....Roger that.....the front of the Rops sits a couple inches lower than the rear. I was reminded that today when I fired up the old lady to go move a bunch of brush. The ice had mostly melted on the roof, and when I started to move, I got a good cup of water sloshed down on my right foot which was on the gas pedal. I guess its good in your case, since you will have that front windshield to keep the water off your feet.
Xpac.....Check out my new thread......Old Abe sent his Christmas Greeting. Ha ha.
I am allowing a little gap then draw it in with bolt when i install rops and yea i will weld inside and out with the stick welder the square tube was for my old rops (umbrella) the cup holders were for pop and in the winter starting fluid which i hope the block heater means no starting fluid required
Xpac....The block heater is working great for me. I did a "Cold Start" 2 minute video today showing how fast she fires up, and not using the air intake heater at all. But Comcast will not let me send the attachment as its too big.....so I need to figger out how to shorten it, or something.
68 Thats good news i hope mine works as good thanks
Well call me dumb but i recently learnt about a filter located in the power steering pump reservoir so i decided to change all the filters today and when i took the reservoir off for the steering filter heres what i had and the oil was as thin as water and as dark as black paint what a mess
another shot
the filter
this is how it should look
new thermostat
My favorite of the day with my own little twist on the gauges the 2 little orange things standing up are actually lights that will reflect down on the gauges i seen these used on my neighbors b so i picked up a couple from Dale at tractorstuff.com
Just rinse it out in some fuel oil and sit it in front of wood stove to dry out and it will be fine!
That dash looks like something you'd see in a street rod! The orange rings on the gauges stand out great against the yellow dash!
ha you mean throw it in the woodstove haha
Xpac.......Holy Kow!!!!! And I thought my filter was dirty.....yours takes the cake for sure! I would be tempted to drain the fluid in the lines to the power steering cylinders, and as much out of the cylinders too. That power steering pump is gonna breath one big sigh of relief when you crank the engine up. Amazing.
Yep......Burn that poor filter, put it out of its misery......ha ha. :stirthepot
xpac.....That dash looks pretty badazzz.......and with the orange steering wheel column sticking thru it, those orange dial bezels are gonna be like music to the ear. Now slap in a new diesel shut-off cable which has an orange pull, and it will all match.
Or at the least get another filter or two handy and once it's running sit there warming up the engine and steer right and left for several minutes and then drain steering oil and replace filter again. Keep doing this till oil and filter look clean.
Actually not a bad thing to do to any used canister type filter as long as they are not the ones with a lot of plastic in them. A little more heat for the shop and less trash to get rid of.
I just went and got new hoses for both sides today and i am rebuilding both cylinders so most of the water paint oil will be replaced with new oil.
New windshield installed into the frame and picked up today not much work on it today except for chasing parts
Xpac.....Did you manage to find power steering lines someplace locally, and at a good price? I think I asked Dial about them, and he said that you had to order original Case lines due to the connectors at the ends, and they were too expensive for me to get......these have been on at least 25 years (might be original equipment), and I am just gonna hope they last another 25 years. However, I would like to rebuild the cylinders. Did you get rebuild kits from Dial? Let me know how much of a pain it was to remove the power steering tie rod ends when you do that......cause when I was replacing the spindles, I tried tapping one loose, but it wouldnt budge, and I gave up, and didnt want to go further without the right tie rod end puller.
xpac.....wow, the windshield looks great! Did you have a shop do it, or did you manage this also? Looks so good, you cannot see the glass. You think an electric windshield wiper would be overkill?
Actually i have been kind wondering what was out there in a wiper i cant really buy nothing until i see what kind of room there is after its on the tractor. I had a glass shop do it for meas they could cut it right and i really couldnt do that i didnt really even want any glass but this rops had one on it and ido see it being a benefit rain/snow/cold wind.
Yep, it turned out great. And actually you probably would not use a wiper that much, unless you really think you will be out in the rain/snow that much. Otherwise, you could just use a rubber squeezee once a month to cut the dust down.
xpack, That's looking good. Did you install the glass yourself? If I do mine, it will need a new rubber molding as they get hard in old age. My Sims cab has a wiper motor but the shaft was broken when I got it 25 yrs ago and never replaced the motor. When its raining, it would be nice to have but not much good for dirty or fogged up windows. I use a hose to wash it inside and out and squeegee it off both sides. When its raining enough to use a wiper, I just go and do something else inside anyway. If I replace my motor, I will use a Wexco marine motor and pantographic wiper arm, which swipes a rectangular pattern and would store the blade at the side. Your exhaust fan and filter box is a great idea. I had considered something similar to draw welding fumes when working inside but for now, I have been dragging the job outside.
This talk about wipers got me looking around and I found one site that looks like they could be handy for anyone thinking about replacing or installing a new application wiper. No direct knowledge but looks like they at least know a few things! http://store.amequipment.com/
kshansen, that's a great link. I see a solution to a pantograph issue I have on my boat, after converting to 2 speed motors and pantographic arms. And, they are relatively local to me rather than overseas like so much these days.
I will proably look into a wiper when i get the cab on and funny you mention the welding fumes as i used that the other day when using cutoff wheel in hand grinder and you should have see the black dust it picked up i like it enough i mounted it to the dolly and thats where its going to stay.For those who dont know what were talking about heres a pic of a filter box with a furnace blower in it to catch overspray and exhaust fumes outside i just put the other end in a window and paint small areas so it can keep up.
kshansen thanks for the link i have it saved when i get the rops and window on i will check them out i wouldnt mind having a wiper and have even thought of a set of mirrors for backing up i have them on my kubota and if you bump something with them they fold the whole mirror and bracket right out of the way instead of breaking them
Actually i had lines built and they pretty much matched all the fittigs but the 2 long ones and Dale said a lot of guys cut that part of the steel line and use a hyd compression fitting to attach the metal tubing to the hose so my hyd shop supplied me with everything i needed for like $133.00 for all 4 lines to order the originale was about $125.00 each so its a no brainer which way wins i had the rebuild kits i had got from ebay a while back.As far as removing the ends i have a balljoint tool not a pickle fork that im going to try if it works i will post a pic of it my ends seem good so im trying not to damage them in the removal.
xpack and 68, I replaced my tie rod ends for my steering cylinders this summer. I removed the cotter pins and loosened the nuts and tried a pickle fork...that didnt work at all. I threaded on regular nuts (in place of the crown nut) and used a BFG to try and persuade them out of their homes in the steering arms and the radius rod. That didnt work either. So as a last resort, I ended up using the oxy acetylene torch to get the steering arms and the radius rods hot...really hot. Once hot, a couple of good blows from the hammer does the job. Warning, the rubber boot on the tie rod will light on fire, and the rubber/grease burning smell will make your significant other very unhappy when done in a basement garage...
flip i am hoping not to have to heat but from what you just said if all else fails i will also go to oxy/ace to get them loose im thinking mine are the 1970 rusted in type like yours were keeping my fingers crossed...thanks for the info
xpac.....Yea, those mirrors sound like a great option. I was moving alot of brush with the bucket forks this weekend, and my brother was on the ground moving stuff.......those mirrors would have been real handy when backing up, and not having to turn my neck to make sure he wasnt behind me.
Xpac/fliptop......I am also hoping that I can just use a balljoint tool to pop them off. In the meantime, I think I will squirt penetrating oil on them once a week until I try to remove them this summer.....who knows, maybe that will help some. Im hoping to avoid the cheery hot heating procedure, with the boot on fire, and the local fire dept. being called by the neighbors.
Xpac....That would be great if you post some pics when you do this, as I will be attemtping this repair this spring/summer. That was a good price for all 4 lines.
This is the tool i used to pop the steering cylinder ends loose and it worked pretty good it is called a ball joint separator from harbor freight $22.00
remove nut and turn it upside down then thread it up on threads even with bottom of the bolt or the separator will mess up the threads on the nut dont ask how i know
tighten the separator pretty tight and smack the top of end with a hammer and if it dont pop tighten more then try the hammer again eventually all 4 ends of mine popped
resealing steering cylinder removed 3 cap screws
locate this little hole in the side of the cylinder to help to remove a snap ring so you can pull the piston and shaft from the bore
here a shot of inside cylinder barrel
View attachment 147785 piston,rod,gland
View attachment 147786 The instructions are pretty clear from here replace all the seals and oring like the instructions say and put her back together
View attachment 147787 I used loctite on these screws as i was missing all 3 on one cylinder and the 3 on the other cylinder were loose
View attachment 147788 Here is how i changed the 4 hydraulic hoses for the steering i cut the 2 ends off that were the long steel ends and cleaned them up for a hydraulic compression fitting the rest of them the hydraulic shop had just not the 2 long ends
View attachment 147789 compression fitting
I would love to know exactly where to drill this hole so I can clean mine, my 580ck will not move the tires unless they are in the air and I've already cleaned out the control valve for the power shuttle
Hey xpac.....for some reason, those last two pics did not load up right.
Xpac.....Hey, "monga tak" (Danish for Many Thanks) for those great pics showing how to remove the cylinder ends. That tool is on the top of my list to get. Sure beats breaking something by using a sledge hammer. This is a huge help!
xpac.....Looks like some of that high quality black paint down inside the power steering barrel. Ha ha. You will definately sleep better at night now knowing you have clean fluid in here now.
crimped fitting on new hose that accepts the compression fitting
compression fitting attached and hooked to tractor and cylinder
the other side
new lines completed
other side
good shot of of line installed where compression fitting connects to hose there is only one line per side that you have to use compression fittings to attach the long end of the old line after you cut the old one off to attach to the new one and you will save around $350.00 by doing it this way.
xpac.....3 screws missing, and the other 3 almost gone AWOL too. They just werent happy with that thick black paint inside the cylinder. Im gonna go see if my screws are still there, and try to convince them to hang around a bit longer.
xpac....thanks for posting the P.Steering rebuild pics.....good idea cutting and using the compression fitting...hoses look great.
Also nice fix on the hoses as now if for some reason you need to replace one years from now it will be simple. I'm too fussy at times but that one hose in post #525 could be a bit shorter! Just be sure it won't get snagged on any thing. One disadvantage of not having the hose crimping tool handy when doing a somewhat custom instillation. One idea for anyone else doing this type of thing would if hose shop is near by would be to have one end crimped on then install hose and trim as needed to get it to fit real nice. If both ends have angled fittings, say a 90º on one and a 45º on the other install the hose and position as needed then put a spot of paint on fitting and hose to mark how to line them up. I had to go to this extreme on a Cat hose once even though dealer had the factory spec's on it it would have a kink in it when installed. Don't take this wrong like I said I can be way too fussy at times and this tractor could put many street rods to shame!
Could use some plastic ties to loop them up higher and attach to something. I have the same issue with my backhoe.....someone added hoses that are too long, and the backhoe bucket will curl up and around and the teeth almost hits the hose.....so I need to tie them up and back before they get ripped off.
kshansen no worries here you just said what i was thinking when i installed it nice tip about the mockup before the ends get crimped i wiil have to remember that next time like you said would have been nice to have crimper right here but thats out of my budget so i just deal with the hyd shop glad to know im not the only one who can be so pickey about things like this but the end result is much better when you can be that way.It is truly the details that make the big picture.
new belt
fan mounted
radiator and shuttle oil lines installed
not sure what this part is called (shroud)???
Heres one of the reasons you will think im crazy checkout the gas cap ointhead ointhead:it goes on a harley gas cap and i just think its cool so why not they used to take parts from tractors and use them on harleys so why not go the other way haha what was that show PIMP MY BACKHOE
close up of cap
Xpac........Man! That chrome Harley cap looks way too cool! Thumbs up for sure! The Voodoo Queen will appreciate it.
Xpac......Wow, you are really doing a fine detailing job.....the orange bolts on black fan, orange lines, etc......she is going to look too good to dig up stumps anymore. Maybe its time for her to spend the rest of her life going to steam engine tractor shows, and placing mirrors under her belly. :thumbsup :notworthy :thumbsup
68 She wont be in shows and after i work her for a week the newness will ware off she will be a worker but the kind that i will cuss at myself when she gets scratched it wont take long for her to look like a worker around here we can get muddy pretty easy and i just dont have enough sense to stay out of it.Thats why the pics so i can show everyone what it used to look like hahaha
xpac.....yea, I hear you.....the first couple of scratches are the worse. But I still have some old carpet on top the floor pans so the paint wont wear out so fast. Youre right about the pics......to show what she looked like before the new mud, fresh scatches, and hydrualic oil leaks. Hey, at least we tried to take care of the ole ladies.......not our fault that they want to play in the mud.
Following this build reminds me of years back when I did something similar to the old Farmall BN tractor I use to mower my five acres of lawn. This was before digital cameras and the internet so I don't have any pictures of that job. Literally had that tractor down to every last nut and bolt. Well the only exception was the magneto, and that I had rebuilt the summer before I did the rebuild of the tractor. Had to check files, that was back in the winter of 1985-86! Paint is getting a bit rough these days, only used spray cans so it was a bit on the thin side. Have had a few problems over the years, radiator and fuel tank leak, clutch disc, starter drive and a couple years back the battery I put in back then failed (and it was only 26 years old!). Compared to the problems you hear some people have with new equipment I don't think that's too bad. My wife seems to think I crazy when I spend a few days taking apart one or two of the old Ariens walk behind snow blowers and put maybe $100.00 dollars into parts to fix them up. She thinks I should just go and buy a new one. Well, yes I could for about $800.00 and have one maybe good snow blower but for 1/4 the money I can have two and I also know just what they are made of and how to fix them. Not to mention if something minor fails while clearing the driveway after a major storm I can just walk back to the barn and crank up one of the spares and finish the job. Instead of having to pull it back to the garage and tear it apart then hope the dealer has the parts I need and I don't get stuck in the driveway going or coming. You guys could go out and buy a nice shiny new 580N and it might out work one of those 580CKs and maybe even use less fuel doing it but for all the money you are putting in to these old machines you would just be coming close to the interest on a loan to buy the new machine. Plus now you know the internal workings of the machine so when something does break you will know what it is and how to fix it. And best of all you can look at it at the end of a hard day out working it and take pride in knowing your work was the reason that old machine was able to do that job. Sorry to hi-jack your thread, I get carried away at times, someday the guys in white jackets will surely be knocking on the door to do just that!
Kshansen.......Yea, I agree totally with you. Its a feeling of accomplishment, learning something new, and seeing an antique piece of equipment go from a rust bucket, with many problems, to one that looks almost like new, and runs great. After tearing into the trans, the brakes, etc., when I hear an odd noise or have a problem, I can visualize in my head what the problem is......and will know how to fix it alot faster. Also, we get to meet alot of great people on this site who are either experts (done all these repairs in the past), or are learning like me. Some real great people on this site, for sure.
kshansen in my opinion you aint hi jacking i like to know theres still people out there like me that does this kinda stuff it makes it easier when i ask myself what are you doing this for??? it is nice to know that with others doing this kinda thing im only 1/2 crazy gor taking it on. My new 2012 kubota was around 30g and my 580 i will be around 6500.00 when its done but in comparison the 580 blows the doors off the kubota i would give up the kubota well before the 580 i had to split the kubota last year because of one seal leaking hyd trans fluid and it has the full cab which made it worse it was because of the way it was engineered that it started leaking believe me i learnt a few more bad words to add to my collection.And have had many other expensive issues with it as well. The 580 i fixed it enough to work it when i got it and worked it right up to now without any serious issues and even now im just fixing odds and ends besides making her look good again at least when i bounce up off the seat the tractor dont shut down and there no service engine soon light driving you nuts or massive amounts of wiring and sensors that will fail. take care
Xpac.....Thats funny you mentioned the Kabota wanting to shut down when you go over rough terrain and bounce in the seat a bit......my brother has a small Kabota 4x4 with a baby bucket on the front, and it is the roughest riding tractor I have ever been on, and the engine wants to shut off when you go over bumps. Its that stupid sensor under the seat, and I believe we either put a tight rag on top of the switch or unplugged it. The tractor also wants to turn over if you have any weight at all in the front bucket and your not on level ground. Another guy in the area had the same tractor and it flipped over on him and killed him. I think some of the smaller Kabotas are engineered to try to do too much, and its too much tractor on such a small frame.
My 1st kubota was a l 2350 manual trans and i was a great tractor for what it was but this new one is the l 4240 hydrastatic and it is a total opposite you need a tanker to keep fuel in it the power just aint there with this hydrastatic like it was for my old one and believe it or not the 580 uses less fuel than than the kubota by far now my old kubota was great on fuel.I once had to replace a sensor on this new kubota that was smaller than the palm of your hand and it was around $200.00 just because its on the underside of the tractor and a stick cought it and busted it what a poor design or maybe they figured people were buying these to drive on a paved road only:duh:duh The reason i bought this new one was i figured i was doubling my working ability compared to my little l 2350 and all i did was double if not triple my headaches i see the day someone else will own this tractor and i will look for one like my old one to replace it. Its like all this safety this and safety that just my opinion but i think it will only be as safe as the genius running it lets face it we all do stupid stuff but if you decide to jump off a moving tractor you are probably in for a bad day.I think if webster would of known what people were going to turn into he would of left the word common sense out of the dictionary as there seems to be a major lack of it these days. Did you guys see ax men last week with the bozo on a skidsteer ramming a stump trying to get it out of the ground then smashing his face on something if not you should see that genius at work man i need to get my case recliner done so i can watch more bozo's like this on tv.haha
xpac......I agree with you.....Even with no brakes and a Hi/Lo Range that would pop into neutral on hillsides, I never felt that the ole 580CK would ever tip over........but with my brothers KoolBowta, put a load of rocks in that wee little front bucket, and drive over a goofer turd and that rear wheel will come off the ground and the tractor will begin to want to flip over. Not a good feeling. I guess thats why it came with a roll bar, seatbelt, and a kill switch under the seat for when it throws you off. Ax men......its pretty conclusive that all that chem-trail spraying is really making people stupid these days.
final coat
shims between rear mainshaft and shuttle
plate removed from rearend tho change seals
old seals in plate
close up of seals there are 2 of them one faces the rearend one faces the front
new seals are thinner than the old ones
new seals installed
shot of front seal in plate on shaft
new gasket
2 new seals and 1 gasket done
ROPS brackets welded on permanently
new used ready to dig linkage hooked up
Xpac.....Great work. Just some questions for my education: 1. Are you supposed to apply grease on the metal surface before putting that large flat seal in place? Or some type of gasket sealant? 2. I see a blue goo around the oil seals.....is that some type of gasket/seal maker, or what? When I put new seals in on the shafts that go through the rear-end box (for the brakes), I think I used grease. What is the best stuff to use? Here is a pic of the seal......I can still see some of the thick red grease oozing around it. The old seal is sitting under the large washer......it was handy to use the old one with the flat washer to help tap/coax the new one into place. Was I supposed to use something other than grease? While I am mentioning these seals for the brake shafts, I am sending a pic of the end of the shaft. One end had the flat metal "pop in" seal slightly off, and it had been leaking oil. Instead of fighting trying to get it out and a new one end, I used something called Ultra Black, a gasket maker for oil applications. So far, it seems to be working fine. Here is that pic: You can see some oil still leaking at the end of the shaft: Here is the end of the shaft with the Ultra Black laid in real thick: So, be sure to check the ends of these brake shafts, especially if you notice any oil leaking out and onto the brakes.
Xpac......on the pic of the ROPS brackets welded: Great job, and since you positioned the ROPS in place before welding, you know its gonna fit like a glove when its time to put the ROPS on. I happened to notice the hydraulic plug on the entry side of the tractor. My 1968 does not have one there, but just on the other side. So, thats the "full" level mark for the hydraulic fluid?
Xpac.....Regarding the pic of the new dig linkage: I tell you one thing......when I had all the pieces apart, cleaned, and repainted, it was pretty darn confusing as to how to re-assemble that rascal. Thank God for all the pics I took when I took it apart. Looks simple when its all together, but if someone gives you a bucket of parts to put on, it could cause one to pull some hair out. When its time for you to put the long rod with screw ends through both sides of the hydraulic resevoirs, I will have some questions. Dale at Tractor Stuff told me that the fit should be pretty tight (maybe 1/16 slop), and I think mine is about 1/2". I tried having someone hold a large breaker bar on the nut on one end so I could tighten the other end, but I could not get it to tighten up. So, I am curious as to how tight you can manage to get it when you put it back in.
The blue stuff you see in the pic around the seal is just the paint the only time i have ever applied anything to the o.d. is when i put one in and it has popped out on it own after using it and if the seal fits sloppy the i put loctight on the o.d. but as long as it fits tight you shouldnt have to put anything on them. On the i.d the actual seal i always put some grease on them so as not to start on a dry seal. That metal pop in that you put the gasket maker on im wondering if its like a welch plug which is concave and when you get it where it goes you tap the center of it and it expands the plug forcing a seal.I didnt have a leaking problem on that plug when i did my brakes a year ago but i remember there was a seal i was concerned with tearing it it when installing it on something im thinking it was one that had to slide over the shaft with splines and maybe a groove on the shaft so what i did to get it to slide on without tearing the seal was i put electrical tape over the shaft and that seemed to work good as long as you wrap the tape so the seal dont catch the tape.. Im pretty sure that plug is the same height as the one on the other side as i have one on both sides and mine fills from the other side (loader valve side) thats the side i added that sight glass for the hydraulic oil. I actually had to look at you r.t.d. pics to help me figure this out and was still scratching my head trying to figure out how that coil return spring was supposed to be hooked up it took me a few but i finally got it.Mine had all of this missing so when i went to see Dale he had a complete used one and i decided to give it a try do you like yours ????? I this the long rod that you are talking about ????? if so im thinking i just tighten it until its tight then stake the nuts so they cant back off and i think i had very little end play but i will check the end play when i put it back together .
Xpac......Yep, thats the long rod I was trying to describe. When I could not get the nut to tighten anymore to close up the gap, I was thinking that maybe the threads were worn, or maybe the bar itself maybe had a worn groove that was not allowing it to move outward toward the nut. So, if I support the bucket arm, I should be able to back off one nut, and then slide the entire shaft out? If its not a pain, I may give it a try just to find out what the problem is. 2. Ok.....so, there is no need to apply grease or sealant or goo to the outside of the seal (unless it fits sloppy). I wasnt sure. 3. Welch plug......yep, thats probably the name. If they are installed properly, I guess they are like freeze plugs in an engine block, which last forever. But someone had put this one in at an angle, and thus the leaking oil on the brakes. Now I remember you telling us about the tape trick....wrap it around the grooved shaft to prevent seal damage....good tip. 4. Those complicated loader control mechanism parts......Yea, those pics were a must for me. Great that Dial had those parts that you could use. The Return To Dig feature.....its a handy feature......but dont use with the forks on the front......will jab them into the ground.
68 you dont even need to support the loader arms as the bushings on the ends will hold them in place just make sure when your driving the rod out you dont drive the bushings out with the rod my guess would be you have some threads that are bugared up probably just clean them up and good to go.The weather here has been a little rainy but kinda warm if it keeps this up i will have wood left for next years burn no complaints here hows it down south???
Xpac.....Thats right.....the bushings will keep everything in place as long as they arent tapped out....thanks for the info. I hope its just some bad threads needing de-buggering. Funny you classify Virginia as being "down south".....I guess we kinda feel like were in neutral territority and "down south" is Georgia, Bama, Texas, Miss, Florida. Roger that about the warm weather.....I think December was the warmest on record here. We got that brutal cold snap a few days ago when you shipped that package to me.....it must have gone to the North Pole for inspection before arriving at my house....ha ha. But now the drizzle is back, but in the mid 40s......not bad. Looks like I will also have a good amount of firewood left over for next year.....which is good.
got the rear end painted
talk about bug eyed
Hey Xpac........Since you call this rig your "Voodoo Queen", why not paint some black lines above and below the orange headlight rings.....would look like eye lashes. Pimp-out that ole Case......love it.
Xpac.....on the first pic of the rear end being painted.......see where the orange has stopped and you still have the old yeller as you go outward to where the tire goes. Well, there is a bolt hole where the orange stops. There should be 4 large bolts on each side. On mine, one of the upper bolts had worked loose over the years, and then caused the rear end cast iron to chip out a small piece on the top edge where the bolt goes in. I was just wondering if this cast iron is real thick right there, and the bolts are going thru solid material, or if the bolts are actually poking thru the cast iron on each side, and the oil inside the rear end actually sloshes up on these bolts? I need to either try to weld some fat back into the chipped spot, or just put some silicone into it to keep any moisture out. Its all looking great! Pic of the 4 bolts......bad one is upper left bolt:
Xpac......All around the vinegar jug, the monkey chases the weasel. The monkey thought it was all for fun, POP! goes the weasel. Seeing that big spring popping up through the seat post made me think of that rhyme. How did you manage to get the spring to pop thru like that? On mine, the solid metal shaft with the 3 grooved slots remained in place all the time.
68 i have had these bolts out before and im thinking they are in a solid hole meaning oil doesnt get to them if you were going anything to yours i would just make sure you dont see any cracking going on with it because at that point i would fix it with real weld but if theres no cracking i think you would be better off with something like a jb weld then paint it and keep a eye on it for cracking.
Hmmm you should be able to lift your seat all the way out of the mount and that spring should be inside the seat post if yours aint missing i know that a lot of these are missing and not that it matters for the spring but i stiill think someone has put a seat mount from a 580 b on your ck
xpac......Good info, thanks. I have some JB Weld that needs to be used, and that is the place for it.
Nope, the seat does not come that far up. There is a spring inside, and as I recall when I had the rear-end cover off (the seat is bolted to the rear end cover), there was a clip that you remove from the inside to get to the spring. So, as you said, I must have a 580B seat post on mine. Pic of the underside of the rear-end cover, and the bottom of the seat post:
started hooking up dash
heres a couple shots with dash lights lit up
Well i was hooking up my fuel cutoff (stop) cable to the fuel pump and imnot sure what happened but i noticed the throttle linkage hanging from the side of the fuel pump and as i got looking at it closer the shaft that goes threw the pump housing was broke i dont know if i bumped the linkage and it broke or if it was already broke most of the way and i somehow finished it off.But now i guess im going to get educated on it just when i thought i was seeing some light then this happens :idontgetit:idontgetit:idontgetit:idontgetit
If anyone knows if this shaft can be replaced in the tractor please let me know this is all new to me thanks
Bad luck on the pump. Give a PM or shout out to Thepumpguysc on this forum. He will have the answer for you about the shaft. If you have to remove the pump, search and research on here for the process and replacing the seals. Somewhere on here is a post and pics with a Roosa Master pump with that shaft either broken or loose. A search will eventually find it and the solution.
FINALLY... all this talk about rebuilds and nobody got their pump done.?? X- Remove the top cover, 3 screws.. the shafts are held together w/ a clip.. or shut off cam as its called.. By the looks of your pump, it has a lead seal on it, sealing the top cover to the guide stud.. from a fresh rebuild?? Your going to have to cut it.. IF it is from a recent rebuild.. call the rebuilder and tell them what happened and YOUR going to cut the seal and attempt repairs.. reinstall the clip. Otherwise, if something happens down the road, they may not warranty the job because you cut the tamperproof seal.. The clip is either broken or came off.. you wont know till you remove the TC.. IF you PM me w/ your email address, I'll send you a breakdown of your pump along w/ P# of the clip. I don't know weather of not you put fuel in your system or not.. but just a heads up.. if you did.. the pump is going to be full of fuel, so, drain it at the side cover for a CONTROLLED drain.. I'd HATE to be the one responsible for messing up that NICE paint job..
Upon closer inspection of your pic.. I cant tell from the angle, but it looks like the shaft is broken and the clip is holding the rest of it together, inside the housing.. Either way, its an easy fix.. and can be done ON the tractor.. I've got a small pile of them.. when you send me your email address, include your shipping address.. just transfer the screws from the old to the new.. Those screws are quite important.. one is hi idle and the other is low idle.. so take your measurements carefully.. You'll know right away if the low idle is wrong.. but if you get the hi idle wrong by much, the results can be bad..
xpac......Man, thats looking sweet! When you have the altimeter gauge mounted, you will have clearance for take-off. With those bright gauges, you wont be falling asleep behind the wheel.
xpac......This pump work is out of my league also. Im looking forward to some pics as you take the Top Cover off and peer inside. When I need a pump rebuild, its gonna go to the expert here......thepumpguysc. Hey pumpguysc......I watched The Donald down in South Carolina yesterday......man, he does a great job without any reading off teleprompters.
I just did a pm to pumpguy and already he is a major help for me he is PUMPGOD not pumpguy as i know nothing about these pumps and he is obviously very smart with these.I will post some pics later but it looks like the shaft was broke about 3/4 of the way around it was rusted that much then i must have hit the linkage and finished it off i can see about 1/4 of the shaft is a clean break and i am going to do like pumpguy has said and that is leave it alone until i have replacement parts in hand that will give me cool down time to tackle it with a calm head....I Hope....
I would have posted the break down on the site but do to dealer agreements and copyright infringments I cant.. Feel free to distribute it per PM or home emails tho..
If anyone wants a copy just pm me and i will pass it on
This is just a part of what makes this site so great guys that are more than willing to help others in need Thanks jusk for turning me on to pumpguy and Thanks pumpguy for all your help and sharing your knowledge with me and others, i have also have read some of your other stuff you obviously know what your doing...
The top hole is where the shaft broke from the pump on the throttle side
heres the throttle linkage with the piece of busted shaft still attached
heres a shot of the small piece of shaft still on the linkage you can see the jagged edge where its broke
straight shot at the busted shaft
pump with top cover off i have put the cover back on and am taking pumpguys suggestion letting it set until i have the parts to make the repair i wiil post about it when making repair
She took on some 1st coat color and my hats off to 68 this was a pita to spray it and while i was doing it i was thinking of 68 doing this section with a brush and roller THATS COMMITMENT
rear
a shot inside
right front
xpac.......Looking at the pic of the inside of the injector pump......looks very clean, so those filters were doing their job.
Xpac, Your paint job is looking fantastic! In your pic showing the side view, with the hydraulic cylinder propped on a block, I happened to notice another engineering change between my 1968 and your 1970.....the mount for this hydraulic cylinder was changed.....I imagine yours is a stronger design. Maybe they were having some issues with the old mounts, as shown on mine:
Xpac.....your pic of "a shot inside"........As my danish grandmother would say, "Det skinner sum katten lort y manksin". (That shines like cat **** in the moonlight.) Ive gotta admit that my roller and brush failed to get in this area since I did not split her all apart like you are doing......its impressive seeing you tackling this complete tear down). Hey, my super-human eyes noticed the street sign above the 580CK's steering wheel......as Spoc would say, "Fascinating"......most likely some creative decoration from your significant other.
I earned that sign because of days like yesterday when the pump shaft broke:falldownlaugh:falldownlaugh
xpac.......Yea man! I hear you......:deadhorse
xpack, Your paint looks great. I can hardly wait to get mine in and spread all over the floor. After seeing your pics, I was motivated to up the productivity and managed to finish painting all the remaining racking shelves, so maybe as early as tomorrow, can get it set up. It will be good to get all my stuff off the floor for a change. Funny how much stuff gets left around when there is lots of space. I'm hoping your pump repair will only be repacing the shaft and the seals. Somehwere on this forum, there is a good entry on how to set the timing to #1 TDC, mark the pump location and remove/replace the pump and the cautions about the seals. After all that said, it looks pretty straight forward, with some care and caution. I too, like your sign and have had more than a few of those days. When I was still working, my extended work group often thought of me in those endearing terms...
xpack, just don't let some "expert" come in and take that pump off, pay attention to "thepumpguy" and it should go just fine! Not sure if the guy on this forum who was having a problem getting his dad's pump timed ever got it fixed. He was having a problem and called a local guy to help and this "expert" tore his engine apart and left with a bunch of parts and then would not answer phone calls. I think he finally got at least most of the parts back but don't know if the tractor has ever run again. Take your time and if you have any questions stop and ask thepumpguy and it should go easy!
Jusk glad to hear your making progress on your racks and if your project goes like mine im sure you will be doing so many cleanups you will be a pro at it.Its amazing how that one tool you need and just had in your hand just disappears i think i have gremlins in my shop running off with this stuff and stuff piles up when your doing a project like this. I am hoping to not have to pull the pump to replace the shaft i have read a little on the pump removal a installation and it sounds like a lot of timing takes place with that i am waiting for parts before i proceed with that one but at the end of the day i will do whatever has to be done.It feels good getting these repairs finally done but i sure do miss having it ready to go in one piece. HAHA the sign my wife bought it for me when we built this shop and some days like when the pump shaft broke for no apparent reason, i do my best to live up to it and i think in my wifes eyes i do a pretty good job of it ..HAHA
kshansen that is exactly what i am doing is listening to pumpguy i am going to wait for the parts to get here before i dive into it which is exactly what pumpguy suggested .I think i remember reading that thread your referring to and i also followed the one with i think a 680 where someone had bailed out of the tractor as it was going over a hill and it had fuel problems i think it was started by overtorqued i have read enough to know that pumpguy is the man when dealing with these pumps and im not one bit afraid to admit when its out of my comfort zone which this is.The last thing i want is a tractor thats useless.Normally i wouldnt mind the challenge but theres just so much going on with this project its tough to key in on one thing at a time although that is how im trying to attack this...Thanks for the advice i will continue to follow it to the letter i hope that after all of this i can help someone else in the future i have definitely learnt more about this old girl and can hopefully pass some of that on. Thanks
Ok guys heres another thing i am going to be doing soon after all this pretty clean up and paint i found that my oil pan gasket has a small leak that i will attempt to fix is there any tips or tricks to replacing the gasket it looks pretty straight forward it looks like i need to remove the a frame under the oil pan the pull the oil pan and do the opposite to reinstall is it that simple or is there some unknowns that i should be aware of i know theres a small shaft at the rear of the pan that the a frame pivots on but it looks like i can leave that in the pan and just un bolt tha a frame from it and from the front end to remove the a frame then unbolt the pan and drop it...Any thoughts about doing this!!!
I did this replacement this summer. It wasn't bad. The only thing I can think to ask... Do you have the cast iron pan or the stamped steel pan?
Hi flip my pan looks to be cast and as long as i see a leak now i decided its probably easier to change it now then get it all back together and have stuff in the way.Is there differences in changing the gasket for the different pans????
Xpack, the steel pan has a separate cast iron piece that bolts to the torque tube and has its own gasket to keep the hydraulic fluid in there. This piece bolts on after the stamped steel pan is in place. Your job should be easier than that to complete. Like you said, drop the radius rod from the oil pan support and from the front axle. You will have to unbolt the steering cylinders from the radius rods and hang them somewhere. I used my loader frame, but since yours is off, maybe just let them hang in the steering arms. You may also have to drop your tie rod drag link to make room to drop the pan. I did. Drop your oil pan and go from there. I do remember that the torque specs for the oil pan bolts were very low. If you need, I can grab the service manual and look them up for you. Also, I didn't just use the regular cork gasket. I placed a 1/16 bead of blue RTV on both the pan and the block before reinstalling. I tightened everything finger tight and let it sit for the time on the back of the RTV tube. 12 hours I think. Then I torqued everything to spec and added the new oil. I am lucky enough to have no leaks. Enjoy. And if you need shots of the specs from the service manual, let me know.
Xpac.....I need to take the oil pan off also, so I will be learning from your work (once again). I already got the oil pan gasket from Dale at TractorStuff. I have a few screws missing on my pan, so I will need to pick up some. I think this is just the cast iron pan: But in this pic, you can see an up-close pic of the rear of the oil pan. I cant quite grasp how the oil pan fits around that large round dark support structure. Is the oil pan "U" shaped and just goes around that support post thing?
68 the cast oil pan has the radius rod pivot built into it. The stamped steel pan doesn't. So when you take down your pan, the radius rod pivot will come with it. The pics from the manual show the cast oil pan and two different insets based on using a pin or bolt to hold the pivot pin in place. The second pic shows the two different types of gasket sets for the oil pan. The top set is for the cast pan and the bottom set is for the stamped steel pan with the separate radius rod pivot piece.
Hey flip here is my oil pan im a little confused as it sounds like 68's is cast and looking at mine i thought it was cast do you know if mine is considered steel and 68's is cast ??
Yours is definitely cast. If it were steel, you would see the the radius rod pivot is a completely separate piece.
got the final coat of yellow on now shes starting to show her true colors
so is 68's steel or cast or did they make 2 different styles of the cast ones just curious and thanks for the help
Here is a shot of my steel oil pan with the separate radius rod pivot piece removed. The hy-tran is completely drained, but the engine oil hasn't been touched. If I can find a pick of the separate piece I will post it. Sorry the image is sideways.
another shot i wonder if i will have to wipe my feet before getting on HMMMMM nope not me
ok i get it now so according to that 68 and me both have cast thanks again that is very helpfull
i have been thinking about using rattle can bedliner or rubber floor mats or something for the floorboards to protect the paint some
last one
Good information Fliptop....thanks. Thats going to be a definite learning experience when I pull that sucker off. Looks like a small notch where the radius rod kinda snaps into the end of the oil pan.
Xpac......Wow! That orange and yellow looks S W E E E E T ! I wish now that I had taken the time to do the two-tone original color config.
Xpac.....Well, maybe lay down a "Welcome Mat" on the floor boards, and you will be fine.
Xpac......I think we have the same cast oil pan configuration, but they do look differenet.....but I think its due to mine being so dirty and dark looking.
Yea it must be the pics
original seat mount As 68 says old berka lounger
new seat wont fit this way heated and bent old mount
marked center line to cut cut both sides
added extensions to mount cut angles on extensions to give a little better look and cleaned her up and threw some paint on it
all painted new berka vinyl version
Xpac.......Man, youre good! Thats an amazing job heating, bending, and cutting the old seat mount. Now, youre new BarcoLounger is ready to be installed. Makes me wonder why someone way back when took the original seat post/mount off mine and put on the 580B one. Probably some interesting stories behind all of our old tractors.
I am going to replace the tierod you can see the outer edge of my front tires were wearing bad after measuring they had about a 3 " difference between the front and rear of the tire some serious tow in going on the old tie rod welded jamb nut which case gets $35.00 a piece for i got a used tierod coming from Dale at tractorstuff.com Here someone decided a welder was to take the place of the jamb nut and in this pic i guess they had more time to weld than to fix it right in the first place when i get the new parts i will post pics of the install
I know you said you have the tie-rod coming but here's an option for someone else with the same kind of "repair" that needs fixing! http://www.smileysracing.com/shopping/productDetails.aspx?i=97317&c=1558 This is just an example of a place something like this can be found.
Xpac......Good pics, as usual. Yep, some Knucklehead also welded one end of my tie rod too....right on that expensive $35 nut. I bought a new tie rod, but it did not come with those expensive tapered nuts. So, I am going to try salvaging the old nuts from the tie rod when putting the new tie rod on. You can see the weld on the left side of the top tie rod: Someone also attached an external "clamp" to help ensure that the tie rod did not strip loose from the tie rod end. Melben, or the other experts.........Did Case have a problem in the late 60s/early 70s with customers complaining about the tie rod popping loose, maybe causing accidents? Maybe the "weld" or the addition of that clamp was a recommended way to prevent the problem?
Xpac......Im sitting here admiring the work of the artist welder who scribbed the C A S E on your tie rod. I say its a piece of art, and you should display that tie rod on the wall in your living room. Even paint the letters in yeller so they stand out better, and even those two weld "dots"........they were not mistakes, but a part of the artist's "statement". If you toss it in the landfill, 1000 years from now some Knucklehead archeologist will dig it up and write books about how our civilization wrote all their books and records with a stick welder (not even giving us credit for having MIG welders). They will teach all their children that we worshipped some god named "CASE", or that this was the famous lightning bolts that Zeus threw upon the Earth. So, to prevent this misunderstanding 1000 years from now, it is up to you to perch that old tie rod on the wall in your living room.
I would consider hanging it on the wall but im afraid that when i live up to my sign in the shop the wife would want to use it to give me a permanent tattoo across the forehead then i would be running around with with some boneheads CASE welded letters tattooed on my forehead :badidea:falldownlaugh:falldownlaugh
kshansen thats good to know what i ran into was the rods arent to hard to find its the jamb nuts and man are those things expensive for what they are and it appears that you can only get them from case unless someone else knows of a source to get them from.I was going to do all new but Dale at tractorstuf.com hooked me up with a good used tierod with good jamb nuts on it and new tierod ends heck the whole end is only like $17.00 each its that gold plated jamb nut thats ridicules.
ointlaugh :falldownlaugh Xpac......your rebuttal to my suggestion has me laughing big time......great come back to my knucklehead suggestion.
68 i thought you would like that haha
here what i came up with for a sight glass for the hydraulic oil level it was always a pain just pulling the fill plug and filling until oil shot out of the hole and ended up all over this worked good before the tear down...If you do this keep the hose long (short hose= mess) heres the fittings that i used where the plug goes heres a pic of a breather off of a chevy truck rearend i had welded a bracket on the side at the top to hold the breather in place when i was welding on the brackets for the rops but we did this on both my neighbors 580b's and just used silicone on that little bracket after we scratched both sides with some sandpaper and they seem to be holding.
Xpac......thats a most excellent idea you came up with, and one I want to copy. I also hate the factory method of just opening a plug and letting it flow out all over the ground as a guide to let you know when to stop filling her up. I also hate trying to circumvent the mess and over-filling the reservoir, and then having fluid squirting out of the air vents at the top when you draw in the backhoe cylinders, not thinking that this will overfill the system. Oil in the face event once again, but that time oil on the back of the head event. I bet that breather is off a 1970 1 ton Chevy truck rearend, probably with blue paint, and a snowplow on the front. Ha haaaaa
I am afraid the breather on the old 70 has probably been welded over with all the weld on the frame of that old truck hey maybe i should save that tierod so i can use it as frame material for the next go around on the old truck haha
Not sure what the price you were quoted or what size your's takes but here's another place to check: http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/jam-nuts?sortby=Default&sortorder=Ascending&keyword=Jam%20nuts&kr=Jam%20nuts Also any time you need some odd hardware like this don't for get to check: http://www.mcmaster.com/ They also have jam nuts both right and left hand and in larger sizes than 3/4 inch, also can get stainless steel if you want fancy! 3/4" - 16 left hand thread stainless is a bit pricey at about $12 each! In the right hand treads they even have them in titanium if weight is a problem!
kshansen.....Thanks for those links. I tried both, but could not find the wide tie rod end jam nuts that Case uses. The one we need has a deep taper to fit over the tie rod end.
Xpac....There you go....use the old tie rod to keep the 70 chevy from collapsing into the Michigan snow.
Yea im not sure what size they are for sure but from case they are $35.00 a piece i will saving these websites for the future thanks
wow that mcmaster website has a lot of stuff that i cant find around here i can see me using them for stuff in the future thanks kshansen
Yes, I always liked them. Handy for many things. Like just a short time before I retired the old Yale lift truck at work, a 1955 model was giving all kinds of trouble shift gears. It kept getting stuck in two at a time. Finally had enough and pulled the shift cover off. Two or three problems, about half the teeth off 1st gear forward were missing from abusive shifting over the years, that one was not something I could fix. Actually installed a piece of tubing on the shift rail so that gear was not even an option to prevent more trouble. Next problem was the holes in the shift rail for the detente balls were worn to the point of just being grooves. Had welder run a good heavy pass to fill the grooves then used drill to restore the detente holes. Now is where McMaster Carr comes in, the detente balls were worn to the point of being almost square. After searching all my junk drawers with no luck of finding any the right size I grabbed my MC catalog. Sure enough they had the right size, just had to buy 100 when I only needed 4! That might sound bad but the 100 were only around $12.00 plus a bit for shipping. The other thing is were I'm located in central NY State and the nearest MC warehouse is in NJ I could still get stuff overnight 90% of the time if I ordered even around 2:00PM! This work along with a little work on the shift lever housing and now the old Yale was shifting like a sports car! Boss could not believe how nice it was the first time he went to unload a truck. All for a part outlay of less than $20.00, labor might have been a little high, but as they often said "YOUR GOING TO BE HERE FOR 8 HOURS A DAY SO WHAT DIFFERENCE DOES IT MAKE!"
Yea im always needing that gizmo or wobble washer or kanutin valve and i just have no idea where to get it but this place seems to have a lot of the odd duckstuff i seen they had oil level sight glasses on there had i of known about them before i built mine i would of checked theres out that might be a good one for 68 when he adds his sight glass or anyone else thanks again
Back to the broken pump throttle shaft i got the new shaft and you can see the old one on the left has a slot in it and the one on the right has more like a cam lobe cut into it after being educated by pumpguy i learnt that the one on the right is the improved version as pumpguy said and i wont be bashfull to say i was nervous about this whole thing, i so bad didnt want to screw it up so i made sure i listened to what pumpguy had told me. I honestly thought that because these 2 shafts looked so different that there was no way the new on would work, once again pumpguy straightened me out and told me how to install the new one which i did and it works just like he said it would. All i can say is i am a lucky s.o.b.haha to have pumpguy help me with this and it definitely pays to listen to him he knows his stuff about these and for those of us who dont know he is a blessing.
here i carefully measured the adjustment of the slow and fast idle screws before removing from the old shaft then transferred to the new shaft this part is pretty important to get them the same so i actually counted the threads and measured them before transferring
stuffed a paper towel in pump so the clip didnt drop in pump when i pulled it at the very tip of my fingernail is the clip that has to be pulled to remove the shaft this clip has 2 purposes it holds the throttle shaft which slides into the shutoff shaft together and the clip is like a cam lobe so when the shutoff shaft turns it turns to shutoff the tractor. this is one of the parts that made me real nervous all i pictured was things flying and pcs flying all over but to my surprise nothing came apart it all stayed together and the shaft slid right out.that was a relief. slid the new shaft in and put clip back on then checked the operation of throttle and shutoff and all seems good thanks to pumpguy if you run into problems with yours and pumpguy gets involved listen to what he says and you will end up with good results like i did.Im sure to him this is simple stuff but for those who dont know it it is intimidating Thanks again pumpguy.
Heres my suggestion as to what to do before you screw it up or after you fix your screw up :falldownlaugh:falldownlaugh:falldownlaugh
Got the wiring done and the new tach cable installed
kshansen.......Yep, I have been getting stuff from McMaster Carr for years, and have their huge cinder-block yellow catalog to search through when needed. When I restored my ole 27 Nash, this place had the brass wirecloth that I needed to restore the oil pan screen, and a ton of other bits and pieces at real fair prices. Like you said, sometimes its cheaper just to order a box of something, but at least there will be plenty on hand for next time.
xpac.....you mean a "sight glass" that replaces the little plug on the hydraulic reservior? I will have to check that out........but the thing is that you dont know how much above the sight glass the fluid actually is.
Xpac....Funny......Hey, instead of "Caution", how about some of that "Crime Scene" flagging? Ha haa, heee hawwww the Pumpguy guided you through this operation, and it came out great.....thanks for the detailed pics.
Xpac......Hey, I went to McMaster's web site and looked under "oil level indicators" as you suggested.......Wow!....some REAL nice ones there , for sure. One has a thermometer on the end, another has a quick disconnect (in case you just want to stick it on when you are adding fluid, and dont have to worry about snagging it and breaking it off). Lots of sizes and options. From $35 to $60, actually a good price. (especially when you consider the tie rod nut at $35). Here is the link: http://www.mcmaster.com/#sight-glass/=10pfctk
Yea you would just want to make sure its a tall one.When i first did mine i started out with a short hose and when i used the hydraulics the oil came out the top of my chevy rearend breather so i put a longer hose on and it worked great i just filled the tanks until i have about 1" of oil in my clear tube then it has room to move up and down the clear tubing.If you get it to short you may get initiated to the oil bath brotherhood if your not already a member haha
This thread is about our Case tractors "Getting their Name and Surgery". I must say that ole Xpac here was instrumental in me getting a name for my 68 580CK. Because before I restored my CK, she had no brakes, and would often pop out of the Hi/Lo Range and go into neutral.....usually on steep terrain. This left me freaking out as she would take off quicker than lightning, gaining speed and getting out-of-control. Im not the only Case CK owner who had no choice but to drop the buckets in order to slow down an onry, out-of-control rig........thus her name, "Greased Lightning". Thanks go out to Xpac for twisting Santa's arm into stuffing this name plate down my chimney, and also to Tractor Stuff for adding the parking brake lever to my stocking stuffers: Here are Santa's goodies.....brake parts on the hood and the nameplate on the loader side: Those orange letters are so bright that they almost glow in the dark. It was cut and made to fit perfectly under the roof: Clamped in place, but I still need to drill and insert the rivets: Before I realized that it was made to fit under the roof, I had considered placing it here:
Xpac, your yeller is almost an exact match to my home-made/mixed yeller.....I used Rustoleum Safety yeller with some Safety red and brown to arrive at this mellow-yeller. Yours has a bit more red in it: And here is the great custom-made part that Xpac made to fit under the console....it even came with the screws: Xpac....notice the Case bird painted orange on the steering column.....I went all crazy and highlighted all the case birds in orange....there are quite a few of these birds stamped on the tractor parts. Something they did "back in the days", not seen on new stuff. Thanks for getting Santa to send these great surprise gifts! Ho-Ho-Hoe!
By golly that OLE GREASED LIGHTNING is lookin great and i know pics can be deceiving but it sure looks like those ice cycles were starting to thaw out on ol abes nuts with that touch of orange on ol GREASED LIGHTNING ,looks like the name plate fits well.Thats cool you got to play with that stuff hope you like it. I will be building a MARIE LAVEAU name plate for mine when i get to that point.That yellow does look close in the pictures im surprised how close it is and that will be nice for you to be able to set a brake when you get those parts on and those little birds heck i didnt even know they were there i will have to look for them.Thanks for posting the pics it is cool seeing that stuff make it to where you just know it is appreciated even though the cold traveled with it.haha
heres my switches mounted in the left side and heres the right
oil pan gasket change here i removed the steering cylinders from the a frame i removed the 4 bolts and 2 in the rear and removed the a frame rear pivot point that the a frame mounts to removed oil pan bolts the 2 in the front i had to use a wrench as there right above front axle and there are 2 big ones that has to be removed going into the bell housing then removed oil pan pivot point on bottom of oil pan Did the opposite to reinstall an i did put a thin line of gasket maker on cork gasket both sides and hand tightened bolts letting set overnight will torque and install a frame tomorrow
got this the other day off ebay and will install it when i paint rear wheels It is a mechanical backup bell my neighbors 580b has one and he educated me as to what it even was i had no idea until he told me then i knew i wanted one so here it is.
Xpac.......That looks like a pretty darn heavy oil pan.......you think about 40lbs? A lot of weight on the rear end of it for sure. Thanks for posting all this info......will help me a ton when I go to do mine this spring. Probably a good time to clean and lube that grease fitting on the pivot point while it is off. Hey......Im curious about your oil pan inside.......did you have any sludge on the bottom, and was the oil pump screen becoming gunked-up? Also....I like your trick of using a towell around the steering column before you put the "U" shaped dash back in place.....that stops all the scratching as you manuver it back in place. Another trick I did was to use a layer or two of black electrical tape on areas that tended to be rubbing points. Like I noticed the gas tank had rubbed down to bare metal certain spots where the hood rubbed.....so after painting, I used tape to act as an anti-rub agent. I figure why go thru the trouble of painting if the metal is going to rub it right off again.
Xpac......You sly weasel.......how in the world did you find one of those back up bells???? Did the supplier have more than just one? Im very interesting, as its "slicker than owl snot" as someone else on this site said. Shoot, the one you got looks brand new, right out of the 1960s box. Im jealous.
I used to have those mechanical back up alarms on a 1956 international 1700 series 6 wheel dump truck. It was a 6 cylinder, 6 volt positive ground. Two 6 volt batteries allowed it to use 12 volts to start. It was named "Jethro". What a beast. Thanks for the memory, I haven't thought of that truck for years.
'68, parking brake? I have several - front or rear buckets and either / both outriggers. Hell, I'd feel spoiled if my brakes even worked ; )
heres the pickup screen it looks good and there was no sludge just dark oil which i think all diesels oil gets dark like this but everything on mine looked good i was told by the p.o. that this motor only had about 600hrs on a rebuild and i can tell someone has worked on the motor one thing i noticed is this had the paper gasket on the oil pan but mine is cork and i think the original would of been cork.
This one cost me $100.00 plus $13.00 shipping this one was the only one this guy had and it was more than i wanted to pay but this style seems kinda tough to come by so i grabbed it up.There is one on ebay right now for $250.00 obo but theres no way i would pay that for one.If you use ebay type in mechanical backup bell and you will see that one it is off of a old truck you will also see the other type but there no where as cool as this one to me,but if you want one just let me know for sure and i will keep my ears open for one for you.
Grady Mine didnt have brakes when i first got it either but that didnt stop me from using it and there was plenty of the drop the bucket drops on mine to get her stopped but i have since fixed my brakes and im glad i did it was kinda scary at times without them.I had more than once i thought i was going to have to change my pants after a couple close calls haha those backup bells are pretty cool but i had never seen one until my neighbor got his 580b and he told me what it was...
Grady......Yea, I know all those alternate braking methods all too well, but on steep grades they are kinda "iffy". The risk multiplier was when the dern Hi/Lo Range would pop into neutral, kinda grabbing you by the "boo-boo". When your not expecting the tractor to take off with gravity pushing at 32 feet per second, it kinda gives you the white knuckles. I got the Hi/Lo Range fixed just by installing a new woodruff key under the lid. Tearing down the brakes and understanding how they work (that double-action braking system is kinda neat), and getting them functioning again was a big relief.......and now having a Parking Brake seems like an unheard of luxury. Ole Jethro sounds like a pretty bad-azzz truck. Positive ground......all the old vehicles were positive ground, and after reading up some, it seems that putting the positive to ground is actually the smart way to wire a vehicle.....Im not sure why they started reversing it and making the negative go to ground.
Xpac.......Yep, "Ole Abe's" knutz have definately defrosted with that bright orange "Greased Lightning" sign up there for him to back up and warm up his behind. (Old Abe is the chrome eagle between the front headlights.....for those new-timers). Yep.....the two yellers are real close......when I mount the left dash plate cover, you will not notice any difference at all. By the way, I bought an antique style "I-Ooooooooga" horn, and I think I will mount the horn in the new dash cover you sent. Im looking forward to seeing the final touches and your "Marie Laveau--Voodoo Queen" nameplate on your rig. Yep.....the christmas gifts were much appreciated, but the freezing temps not so much.
You have your block heater switch beside the key on right, and on left your headlights.....the other push button a horn, or what? Maybe the recline switch for the barco-lounger?
Yea, your pick-up screen looks good. I guess soaking it in gas for a day or so would help loosen up any thick deposits if someone had that issue. Also looks like that metal cover can come off so you can get a brush on that screen if needed. Im hoping mine is as good as yours when I remove it. I got a new cork gasket from TractorStuff too. Your method of adding some gasket sealer on the cork is a good idea, in my opinion.
Xpac.....Yep, I saw that one for $250 on ebay......too much for my thin wallet, plus it was kinda worn out. I will keep my eyes open, and if the price is low enough, I will try to snag one. Ole "Dial" probably has a bunch in his back pocket.....holding out on us.
Xpac......I forgot to mention: After fixing the brakes, I was able to discretely remove the toilet paper dispenser.
the one beside the ignition is for the manifold heater the one on the left will be used at the end of this project lets just say (stay tuned) haha:crazy:crazy:crazy
Thats funny :falldownlaugh When you first told me the name of your tractor and how it came about i thought you meant you greased your pants when she took off like a rocket haha and i could only laugh because i had been there before as well.
ointlaugh :falldownlaugh :falldownlaugh :falldownlaugh ointlaugh Good one!
68 seems that yours isnt the only tractor to have a name plate i found this one in a freezing cold barn here in michigan so i just had to take a pic the owner is probably soaking up the sun in florida somewhere while his CADILLAC is freezing in his barn SANTA CASE must have visited him and because he wasnt home ole santa case installed his for him :woohoo:woohoo:woohoo:falldownlaugh:falldownlaugh
Installed new tierod ends and tierod this is a pics of the jamb nuts for the tie rod ends these are the ones that are $35.00 each from case
Finished with oil pan gasket and tie rod hoping this week to put the rear end back to the front end ???
Those jam nuts must be nickle-plated gold.
Xpac.......its all coming together great. Did you have to use a small hydraulic jack to help ease up the oil pan in place so you could get some screws started? Another thing I forgot to ask......did you check the volts your genny was putting out before you busted the tractor into pieces? With the tractor running at idle, I was happy to see that mine was charging up over 13 volts. She is charging the battery good, and I still have the original genny with the oil cups on each end.
Xpac.....Were those tie rod nuts hard to get off? I still need to put my old tie rod into a vice and try getting them off. Like yours, I will have to use the small grinder to break thru the weld some Knucklehead put on one end.
I had help with the oil pan it is pretty heavy for one person to put on, mine has been converted to a alternator and it charges good,as far as the tie rod nuts they were on a used tie rod and Dale had his guy make sure they were free before he shipped this to me.
Not sure why that nut has the counter bored area in the one side. But I have a lathe down in the basement and I'd be glade to modify a standard nut for half that price if you supply the nuts and shipping! Is the surface the nut seats on flat or is it crowned to fit the nut? Now that's strange, the above was what I thought I had posted last night! When I saw it did not show up I started to repost and saw the box asking if I wanted to used saved information! Anywho, After another look at the nuts I'm wondering if the taper on the inside is there to crimp the end of the tie-rod down to help lock it on the threads. Still would seem to be an easy job for someone with a lathe to use one of the original nuts to get the right angle to cut on a new nut.
xpac......10-4. I was guessing the oil pan was about 40 lbs or so.......so I will probably rig up my small hydraulic jack to assist in raising/lowering it. Hey, if you have an extra tie rod nut, step outside your shop and give her a good wing :slomo kinda in the southeast direction. Unless you have a bad shoulder, in about a week I might see it fly by and maybe bounce off the rear tire of my CK. Then, I can clean it up and make good use of it. I will leave the tie rod sitting by the old oak tree, in case you want to add some english to your throw, and you might get lucky and that nut might hit the tie rod end with enough spin, to actually thread itself right into place. I'll put some anti-seize on the threads just in case your having a good day. (Im thinking you will need some anti-seize on your shoulder too!) (And your thinking, "Ole 68 should have used some anti-seize on his head before he went all crazy").:dizzy
kshansen they are tapered for the reason you said the tie rod has a slit in it and is tapered so when the nut is tight it draws the tie rod threads down to the tie rod end threads crimping them.Another thing is that the threads on the nuts one is right hand threads and the other is left hand threads i guess so you can just loosen the jamb nuts and turn the tie rod to adjust toe in/out instead of dropping the tie rod to adjust.I adjusted my toe in/out with the nuts loose and turning tie rod when i did it i just measured front gap of tires then rear gap until it was even thats the only way i know how to set it.
There is probably a spec. for a small amount of "Toe-In" something like 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Unless you are going to be running on hard pavement probably not real critical. Just took a look at the spec's for a small Cat back-hoe and they show a toe-in of 0.19 inch, that's under 1/4 inch!
kshansen I very rarely travel on the road but i will keep a eye on it to make sure my tires arent getting wore down.The old measurements was the rear of the front tires were 3" wider than the front so there was some serious toe in going on here and it showed on the old tires. Im pretty sure shes gonna wear good now.Thanks for the good info.
haha its on the way but now i only have one arm left to finish this project... I was actually going to send it to you but after getting it cut loose from the weld and cleaning it up the threads are toast but hey i was able to cut it loose with the 4 1/2" grinder with the cutoff wheel so maybe you will be able to save yours its worth a shot
Less tire wear and a little more top-end down the back straight!
You know how you have one of those days once a year where things just go good well this must have been my one day of the year, listen close do you hear that its that sound you make when theres a load dropped off your shoulders. WELLLLLLLL....... :thumbsup:drinkupMARIE LAVEAU FINALLY HAS A REAR END :drinkup:thumbsup...... she also got the fuel tank and dash mounted I had a floor jack under the tranny and a overhead hoist on the engine my buddy on one rear tire me on the other we pushed the tires and it rolled the rearend and floor jack real well and we lined things up and it went together nicely way better than my luck usually goes......
A few questions here looking for some feedback about these 1) I had been using the rotella diesel engine oil in this from tsc since i owned it and it seems ok is there something better or is this good enough??? 2) Is the old green antifreeze ok to use in this or is it something different and do you do a 50/50 or straight antifreeze??? 3) What is a good long lasting grease to use for the pins/bushings ect...and where are you buying it the stuff i am currently using doesnt last long???? Thanks for any input on these 3 questions
Kshansen.......hey, thats an idea. If I cant get the old ones off, I will look for the right size tie rod nut and let you know about machining one end. You may want to make 10-20 and have on hand to sell to others doing these repairs. So, thanks for the offer......and I will let you know.
Xpac......even with shot threads, my mouth is watering looking at that tie rod nut......I bet I could convince it to thread on one more time, and top her off with a nice smooth mig weld on the hind side. Just kidding......but dont toss it out, as it could come in handy in a pinch. Some of your Alberta Clipper is already here......12 degrees and dropping.
Xpac......Yeap, maybe you and Chris and use his "KaDiddleLack" for the dirty work, and save the VoodoQueen for all the picture taking. Ha ha I bet ole VoodooQueen will be axle-deep in mud sooner than you think.
xpack, she'll be better than new and you now have a better idea of what all the bits do and what maintenance will give her a long and happy life. Well done! I'm delayed again due to an unforeseen incident but hope to get mine inside next week while I have help from my neighbours who are here for another week.
Hey jusk i was just wondering where you were glad to hear from you.Hopefully tomorrow i am gonna try to start her and see if she moves after all of this. Today was the thankless stuff hooking up stuff getting her ready and adding oils/antifreeze.I am pretty anxious to hear her run again and see her move i have my fingers crossed....I am watching for your post to get started again good luck getting her in the shop hope all goes well.
I just found out i had been given out the wrong website for Dale at tractorstuff his correct website is http://e-backhoeparts.com/ and his phone# is 765-378-3396 he is one heck of a guy to deal with and is very knowledgeable about these old tractors and i dont refer many people to businesses like this but this guy is a exception to most businesses he truly cares to help and isnt bashfull to share his knowledge with guys like me who dont know a whole lot about these old tractors.Dale has helped me a ton on this project along with the great people on this site..Ole 68 was the one who turned me on to Dale and I am glad he did !!! 68 has been very helpfull with my project and he has a way of picking you backup and making you laugh when your ready to shove dynamite in the exhaust and just blow it up...:notworthy...Thanks 68...:notworthy... Thanks to everyone else who has helped me with this beast as well i hope this thread helps someone else in the future...
Xpac.....Someone else on this site recommended Tractor Stuff to me last year, and Im glad I gave them a try......as you said, a terrific guy (Dale) to work with, and he goes out of his way to help us with our many rebuild issues. I know what you mean about shoving dynamite down the exhaust and giving up.....somedays Murpheys Law and those little grimlins that make everything impossible really hit with a full head of steam. I came close to throwing in the towell when trying to remove the front axle spindles......but somehow I mashed those grimlins with a sledgehammer and the whole Murphey's crew packed up their bags and left. I heard rumblings from the flea-bitten crew that they were on their way to Michigan to visit Xpac. In the pic below, that Murphey's crew is all over the poor tractor, but they are hard to see in the pic:
oil, anti-freeze, and grease xpack, These old machines aren't too fussy. They care way more about having these things than what kind or brand. Rotella now makes a synthetic and a synthetic blend. I guess it depends on how much you like it or how often you want to change it. Don't use straight anti-freeze. 50/50 is good unless you take her to the Arctic for the winter. Any good grease will work and again, it's way more important to use it freely and often - even if it gets on that nice paint job ; ) than any specific kind or brand. She looks like a super model all dolled up like that - but even super models are probably fun to get dirty.
Grady I filled her up with straight green antifreeze do ya think i should drain some out to get a 50/50 i cant imagine straight antifreeze hurting it any but i honestly dont know what it would do to it.
WOW 68'!!! I just studied your pic... YOU MY FRIEND, HAVE SOME HUGE BRASS ONES!!! :notworthy
You need to drain half of it out and add water. Straight antifreeze isn't good for cooling or freeze protection.
Here she is running and moving got her fired up today and she actually moves and i cant believe it but she actually broke the tires loose in 4th gear its grabbing way better than she was. When i bleed the fuel system i only had to bleed the filters which surprised me i thought i would need to break the lines loose at the injectors but i didnt she started firing after cranking and giving her a little throttle and it wasnt long before she was running just like before. I put her in 1st without pushing in the clutch at all and no grinding whatsoever so i tried all 4 gears same thing no grinding so i put it back in 1st and then slid it into reverse and immediately felt it grab so i throttled up a little and she immediately started backing up so i put it in neutral and it was like the clutch didnt release (still in reverse) but it only lasted for a couple seconds then released,so i put it in forward and it grabbed immediately and moved forward. So i backed her out of the barn and took her for a short spin and checked out that reverse thing and it wasnt doing it, it released as soon as i put it in neutral then i checked out all 4 gears and it seems to be working great so far.I let it cool down and started it back up and it id the reverse thing again but it only last for a couple of seconds im not sure what causes that unless the shuttle piston is a little sticky or something.I also still need to check the shuttle valve adjustment maybe thats not adjusted just right?? One things for sure i wont be tearing it back down for this little issue i am very pleased so far with the outcome but i havent drove her much yet to know for sure that all is good but at the moment all is great. Im glad i didnt dynamite it hahaha here she is outside running
heres a few more with her running
got her hood back on
Well now you know what time it is ahhhh:drinkup::beerchug:throwup:sleeping:sleeping
the pumpguysc........Yea, others have laughed and scolded me already on my "gutsy" jacks, jack-stands, bricks, cinder blocks, and blocks of wood. I suppose its "non-OSHA-approved", but at the time it seemed pretty safe. The loader bucket was down all the time for more stability, except when I was getting desperate with the front spindle.......I needed more weight on the front of the tractor when I was trying to use a hydraulic jack to pop the spindle loose.......so, I cranked her up and raised the bucket for more weight.....but that didnt work either. Then the gremilins left, and things went smoothly again. Thanks for the compliment on the huge brass ones.....ha haaaaaaaa :lmao :bouncegri :lmao
Xpac......The lady looks fine, But you could use a shine. She is looking great! Hey, as Johnny Bench would say....."No runs, no drips, no errors?" Did you notice any leaks around any seals, or any small issues? Sounds like all the mechanical systems are running good......I am clueless about that occasional second delay with Reverse. Maybe the experts will chime in.
Xpac......You may want to get those CASE stickers put on the hood before you put the loader back on....the more working room the better. I put the stickers on with the hood off, but the benefit of doing it with the hood in place, is that the hood wont move on you while fe-neggaling those super-tacky stickers in place. And where does the Voodoo Queen go? On top of the hood, or maybe on the front headlight surround? Antifreeze....yep, I had heard that you have to mix water (better to use distilled water if you can) with the pure antifreeze, or it loses its cooling ability. Just make sure you dont already have that nu-fangled stuff that is already mixed 50-50.
Xpac........Beautiful picture! Now, you can kick back in your barco-lounger and drink up those Millers, and sit back and admire all the hard work you have accomplished over the past couple months. I like the order of your pac-man display........A happy drinker, two happy drinkers full of merriment and celebrations, then one does some heaving, and finally they both are sleeping it off.........Funny. Heres to a job well done......thanks for the Miller brewskie: :drinkup
xpack, glad everything looks good. Definitely make it a 50/50 mix on the anti-freeze. I don't know if your set up is the same as mine but I'd look at the clutch adjustment on mine if I could put it in any gear without using the clutch. I have the gas motor [not the diesel] and the 4 spd with the high/low range and manual shuttle. You don't change any gears, range, or direction on my ck without using the clutch. How much free play on the pedal? I tossed a few back in honor of your success - not that I needed a reason but I was glad to have one. PS - I'd kill for that garage of yours. I'm freezing my as* off out here in the snow.
xpack, She's looking real good! Glad to here that you can select any gear while shuttle is in neutral, without using the clutch pedal. I read that as the new springs in the shuttle are disengaging properly so you can shift the tranny. That is one of my issues and I think my question is now answered. Shuttle is coming out... Oh, whats that funny white stuff all around your tractor? Around here, it would cover all the daffodils coming up.
I will be draining her today and doing the 50/50 thanks to you and 51kw i didnt realize this was a big deal to do straight antifreeze so i learnt something new with this and i definitely dont want to screw this up after all of this thanks again... Mine is the power shuttle model and when i shift 1 threw 4 i do use the clutch but i had to try it yesterday without just to see what was gonna happen it was at low idle when i did it and it dropped right in every gear.I dont have a lot of free play on my pedal but there is a little when i push the pedal it is moving a spool witch drops out the hydraulic pressure allowing you to shift.I believe your setup is like 68's which seems to be quit different than mine. On the garage thing I spent a lot of years out in that cold freezing to and now i have truly been spoiled by the shop with the woodstove so when i did this barn i decided it was a must have kinda thing and i have no regrets doing it.Projects like this one does eat up the room fast but hey i would rather do it out of the back of a pickup with heat than be out in this crap dressed up like bigfoot with purple fingers at the end of the day ya just gotta do what ya gotta do.Every now and then i still get roped out into this crap and have to bust out the bigfoot outfit but it does suck....
I didn't know they had the power shuttle back then. My newer ones have it but the CK is all manual all the time. I didn't know they had the extend a hoe back then either so what do I know anyway. What kind of lube do you use in the shuttle?
yep i like the power shuttle on it when its working right but i didnt care for the rebuild of the shuttle or torque converter but it had to happen at least now i know things are as right as i can make them. And for the extendahoe it comes in real handy after i dig out around a tree then setup on it i use the extendahoe to push the tree where i want it and it pops the whole root ball out of the ground.
She got her new decals and muffler painted also drained and refilled antifreeze 50/50 heres the side panels installed
Pulled her outside today to let her run and tried to get her hot enough to open thermostat so i could get any air out of the system but she dont want to get to the 180 about 170 is the hottest she will get in this weather i even put cardboard in front of the radiator.I wil lhave to wait for warmer weather unless one of you know a way to cheat it to get it to open. I also checked out that reverse thing more and it does it in forward a little to it appears that it only does it when it is cold after i move it just a little it quits doing it.I did tear it down in hopes it would move better when i got her done so im not complaining and so far i dont have to warm it up at all to get it to move and before this rebuild even on a hot day i would have to lift the tires off the floor and put it in gear to warm it up before moving it but not now I am pretty happy with the results so far...
Xpac.......Wow, she is looking great! Those stickers go on pretty good if you have complete patience, and dont rush it. Once you have that glue make contact and get it started on one end, its almost impossible to stop and lift it to adjust. One side I got on perfectly level, but the other side got off just a hair.....but as my old man would say, "no one will know the difference a 1000 years from now". Comparison of sticker placement on my 1968CK: Hey, I just noticed that the "580" on my stickers were put after the "Construction King" logo......ummmmmm. I wonder which was the factory style.
Hmmm i never noticed before but im pretty sure these old ones were original are you sure that the other side of your tractor doesnt start with the 580 then the construction king ????
Xpac.....Here is the udder side: You are right......one side says "580 Construction King", and the other says "Construction King 580". I guess they wanted the "580" to always be beside "CASE"?????? Or maybe it was just the luck of the draw, whatever the Case Sticker Guy grabbed when he was slapping them onto the hoods? Interesting tid-bit part of this resto work......sometimes it "is what it is".....one day this, another day that. I bet you a fine silver doller that no one on this site would ever know the difference. Mine may be on wrong, but they look fine to me. Regarding stickers....now I notice a small white one on the power steering side of the hydraulic reservoir.....is that a factor sticker, and if so, what does it say? Maybe "Warning: Knucklehead welded the tie rod". Haaaaa haaaaaaa. :lmao
Xpac......Another trivia question I had: If you look on the power steering side, you see a small hole in the side sheet metal a few inches below the "C" in the word "C A S E ". There is a hole on the other side too. Were these holes for lights that went on the Ag Tractor version? If so, what were those 2 holes kinda above each front headlight?
Im not sure but like you i seen them and was curious as well by the way i seen the locals on a lake about 2 weeks ago with the center of the lake still open they were in a cove where it freezes first.I just gotta believe there treading on thin ice.....
xpac....OK....maybe the experts at this site can tell us what those holes were for on the front of the tractor. "Treading on thin ice".....I guess alot of us do that, all the seasons of the year, especially if you have a wife with limited flexibility in her discernments. Here comes the B L I Z Z A R D !!!!! Gotta go do all those pre-blizzard tasks. Number one on the list: Plug in 580CK Block Heater. Will send some pics of the 2 feet of snow covering Greased Lightning.
2' of snow should be childs play for ol greased lightning if not with all the knowledge on here by the time were done we will be calling her TURBO CHARGED GREASED LIGHTNING hahaha
I think you'll be surprised how much trouble that much snow can be - even to a good sized machine like that. Nothing it can't handle or deal with though....eventually. Did you put the hoe back on yet? The weight would help - esp. without chains. Lowering the air pressure in the rear tires and keeping the rpm's down in low gear/low range will help reduce tire spin. That much snow piles up in front of you pretty quickly. Have fun.
Here's a couple more if I can get them to post Note the quick attach forks on the "after" pic. The "before" pics were at my place - note the lack of a garage. The "after" was at a job doing an addition. You can see the remnants of some pin striping on the loader arm. Someone was proud of her back in the day.
Here's what your rig will look like soon if she isn't in the garage.
grady cool pics i see you did have her stripped in the first pics and looking at her buried in the snow you need to get after that building so you dont have to shovel out the seat just to get her going maybe 68 should let his run all night with the defrosters left on hahaha
ointlaugh xpac.......thats pretty funny......got a good laugh from that....."Turbo Charged Greased Lightning". Now that would make one heck of a long name on the name plate....ha ha.
Grady......Yep, I got that backhoe put on pretty quick after I learned the hard way......I was trying to carry a loader full of dirt/sand, and I had zero traction on the rear tires, and could not get any traction......had to off-load half the bucket and then go real slow w/o the backhoe weight. Yep.....low rpms....no need to have her running hard just pushing some flakes around.
Grady......She was screaming for some fresh paint.....you did a great job. Thats neat seeing those custom pin stripes on the loader. Makes me think about way in the future.....say 50 years from now...... when some kids have acquired our custom restoration CKs, and saying "This guy must have loved his CK, with that Voodoo Queen decal, and all that custom orange and yellow detailing", and they might say that "the old man I got this 68 CK from was called Greased Lightning.....he must have been the fastest ditch digger in his neck of tha woods". Then, after she pops into neutral and goes sailing down a steep hill, they will get a better understanding of the name "Greased Lightning". As Xpac would say, they will gease-up their pants in the process. Ha ha.
Grady.....good pics of your snow-covered CK. Yep, mine will look like that tomorrow.....all the tarps covered in the white stuff.
got the spacer tube between the tanks the way i removed and installed was to pull these bolts from both sides then loosen these hoses then i put a porta power between hyd tanks by the spacer pipe and spread the tanks just enough to get the spacer pipe out and in on reinstall
painted rear wheels and the rest of the rear axles built and welded mechanical backup bell bracket to axle then painted
Xpac.....The Voodoo Queen is really coming together.....excellent work! So thats how you did the rear axle bell.....I was thinking of a bracket going to two of the lug bolts, but your method makes more sense. Hey.....did you have to use a die set on those lug bolts? Mine had been in so many years and some were in pretty bad shape......I was surprised how good they cleaned up using a cheap die set....put each bolt in the vice and the cleaned up the threads.
my lugs are in pretty good shape so i didnt need to run a die down them and i thought about doing something on the lugs but this just made more sense to me i drilled holes then welded the studs to the backside and the front tacked in 2 spots each to the flatstock before welding it with the wire welder to the axle.
I was more concerned by the rust even though it was mostly surface rust - than the paint. If you look down at the tarp that I put underneath and then drove on, you can see a lot of yellow paint that I sanded off. I used that SEM Rust Shield paint without any primer to what you see in the "before" pics and highly recommend it for dealing with rusty metal. I used it on a portable saw mill also with good results.
Grady......did you spray it, or use the mini roller and brush like I did?
HVLP turbine sprayer here's the same kind of paint on the sawmill
That's a lot of nooks and crannys to do with a brush and roller. Must have taken you a while. Looks good, though, - a labor of love.
Grady...yep, lots of nooks/crannies, like one of those English muffins. Plus I did a coat of primer first that way. Hey, thats a nice bandsaw mill! My friend has a smaller version, but we manage to cut up some large logs and make great lumber. Someday I would like to pick up a good used one myself. You tow this one around, or maybe your planning on building a structure over it so you can work indoors and keep the elements off it? Last time we were cutting, I took a beautiful walnut log 3 feet in diameter.....nice and clear all the way to a fork about 12 feet up. We cut through about a third of it and then the bandsaw suddenly seized up and busted. There was a ceramic power pole insulator which the tree grew around. So, we had to give up on that log......didnt want to ruin anymore blades. Hey.......you ever make boards from Paulownyia? Used to be high priced logs, and now there is not much of a market for them. I have 2 that I might just cut into 1" boards. Very light and pretty strong lumber, and they say it does not warp/bow.
We have Catalpa around here. It's pretty close to Paulownia and I have a couple pieces but no experience sawing it. I hear it's high silica content makes it hard on cutting edges and blades. That safety orange is no dead ringer for the factory color but i'm no purist. SEM probably wishes I don't mention their name for my driveway paint jobs. It cooled off a lot as I started painting the mill and I laid it on thick to bury the rust and ended up with a finish more like bed liner than paint. You can't shave in the reflection but hopefully it will stand up to the abuse a mill sees. You can spray or brush/roll the paint alone or you can add the catalyst hardener like I did for extra toughness. You can see the orange overspray on the tarp underneath even though the edges are rolled up in the pic.
68 if you plan on borrowing/towing gradys mill to virginia make sure you stop here in michigan first and just plan on being here for the summer months before you go on to virginia Thats a fine looking mill you have there grady i dont even know how to run one but would love to have one for some of my wood i just about cry when im cutting up a good piece of oak/cherry for firewood.
Grady....Interesting about the Catalpa. I wonder if Paulownia also has the silica. Hey, the exact color doesnt matter......as long as you are slowing down the rust, and making it look damn good in the process. Xpac.....10-4.....I will haul Grady's mill to your place in Michigan and you will wine and dine us like a king as we cut up your walnut, cherry, and oaks. I probably wont want to leave after living "high on the hog" up in Michigan. Grady is thinking "over my dead body if your thinking of running off with my mill". :guns
Hey grady i see you mentioned catapla trees we also have them and used to get the worms for fishing when we were kids but the worms have since been long gone from here i heard there was some kind wasp that took them out do you gets the worms there or are they gone there to???? just curious......
cleaned and painted new/old grille
Same thing floorboard and battery box i welded off the door for the tool box i have a stainless tray that i use for my log chain so no need for the little door
got the backup bell mounted and it pretty cool im glad my neighbor educated me on these thanks neighbor
closeup
there are little springs you adjust for how hard the strikers hit the bell there almost like you can tune in the bell ???????????The more the tension of the spring the less the striker hits the bell its pretty neat i will have to adjust each one separately
Xpac.....Looks great.......I am picturing thousands of honey bees chasing after you and the Voodoo Queen, thinking this is their hive.
xpack, looks good - hey does that thing know more than one song? and yeah, we still have worms but the acid rain has killed off almost all the native brook trout. I'm gonna dig my own pond one of these days - it's on the wish list. It's hard to believe but I paid more for that mill than the C and the CK combined - and it didn't come with the trailer package. It's a nice toy but green lumber is heavy. How's your back?
Xpac......In this pic, you can see the battery box lid in the lower left, and the Secret Compartment lid can be seen.....I still want to make a small box under it for silver and gold bullion, a couple 45 colts, and a few thousand rounds, and maybe a half smoked cigar for good measure. Ha ha. Right now I have a heavy duty wire coming off the positive terminal so I could open the lid and clamp a trickle charger to it, instead of taking the whole cover off......but later found it just as easy just to clamp the charger to the solenoid terminals and a nearby ground. And for those wondering, this pic shows where the battery box goes: Hey Xpac, I was wondering if the ground wire on mine is in the correct spot.....its bolted to the loader frame beside the battery box.
I did a pond with a old dragline i bought about 15yrs ago it was a northwest 25 dragline if i remember it right it took 1 year within a week to complete and there were some real memories made with that old thing it had the pony motor that was started with a pull rope then engage the clutch to start the diesel everything on it was manual operated it was like a 40' boom im glad i got to experience it but dont care to run one again.I have a small pond here i backup to now and then with ole marie and the dump truck and it keeps getting bigger. haha what back i gave it to a 580ck haha
I dont know if thats where it went originally but that is where mine was hooked up
'68, that's not where my negative battery terminal connects. I'm pretty sure mine connects to the bolt head next to where that other ground wire connects on the battery box mount. I have no idea if that's factory or not but it works. How's the snow down there? Sounds like you're getting buried. You and xpack have those rigs so spiffed up, you aren't going to want to get them dirty. I finally got one of those shifter boots to replace my "temporary" duct tape boot that's been on there for years. Now I need a grip for the shuttle handle and the loader control. I don't know if those are available or if I'll have to just make my own. Got any suggestions? Maybe an old Hurst shifter handle or a pool 8 ball for the loader control? I know it's not original but neither is Cat yellow or the alternator.
Xpac.....thats good to know. I thought that maybe someone had drilled a hole in the frame and put that ground there later. Seems to me that originally they would have wanted it grounded to the actual tractor, but I guess this frame gets as good a ground (until the connection bolts corrode over the centuries).
Grady....Out of curiosity, I will have to check the manuals and see if they show where the ground was originally. Snow.....Yep, we got between 26 - 30 inches, with alot of 3-4' drifts. Got half the driveway cleared out late yesterday, and will finish today. That sun is gonna be BRIGHT reflecting on all that white.....might have to grab the welding glasses. Will get some pics today. Boot.....great to hear you found the shifter boot.....to help keep out the moisture. Hey, TractorStuff has the rubber handles for the shuttle and fuel control handles, and I think they were only about $8 each. Holler if you need their 800 number.
Grady check out Dale at e-backhoeparts.com 765-378-3396 for those grips he can get original grips which are pretty expensive or he offers the type you see on 68's f/n/r/ handle and there only like $4.00-$6.00 each i got a set of these for the throttle and f/n/r i cut mine down some so they werent so long.Dale will ship them to you he is a excellent guy to deal with 68 turned me on to him and i have got a ton from him.
68 i must of not read your post about the ground good enough must be the paint fumes getting to me haha but i dont have a ground on the loader frame im not sure what that hole is for but i do have a hole there my ground is like grady said i only have the 1 and it hooks to the bat box mount i also snapped a shot of that battery tender junior i use on mine when its just setting.
Xpac/Grady......I just found another pic, and there is another hole in the exact same spot on the other side of the loader frame.....so, I am guessing at the factory they had lifting bolts in these two spots for carrying by overhead lifts from one place to another. Maybe?
68 lets see some shots of all that snow hows ol greased lightning doing with it sorry you got it but im glad i didnt that is about the only time i enjoy having a cab and heat on that kubota is plowing snow or rain ive never used marie to plow yet....
The mystery hole on the right side on mine is used for a clamp to hold down the steel hyd lines for the backhoe
I was wondering about the paint fumes in that nice warm heated garage. Watch yourself when you open that wood stove door. Make sure you have a good grip on your beer. Mine has the same mystery holes but it seems like an unlikely place for a ground cable - although you can never have too many or too good of a ground. Mine also still has the original bakelite type material on the throttle like that loader control handle in the pic above but the other two are just the metal stem. I'll add those to my list. Those battery tenders are a necessity. I have several and keep moving them around. I could use a few more.
Yeah, '68, how about some pics from the front lines? Was it child's play or did the blizzard put up a fight? It's good that you didn't wait until it was over to start the clean up. Those snow piles are going to be around for a while.
grady i only paint a little at a time to not get to big of a explosion if i stop posting then you will know ole xpack got a little carried away with the paint hahaa got the counterweight painted and installed
dug out loader and put it in shop to clean and paint
Xpac/Grady.......got the snow cleared off today. When that sun came out, it really let the snow begin to compress down......was a very powdery/light snow, but pretty slick too. We got more about 5 years ago, but still a good accumulation:
Xpac.....So you have hydraulic pipes running along the frame on that side...interesting. I just have plain rubber hydrualic lines which go up to the Quick Disconnects under the front loader control lever. I like the hard lines like you have.....I guess your Quick Disconnects are further back.
xpac.....Wasnt that counterweight about 750lbs? Reaching a point where its a bit hard to hold it in one hand and slide the bolt thru the holes with the other hand. Boy, those front tires look real beefy.....badazzz looking front end.
Xpac.......I tell you, there are ALOT of nooks/crannies in the loader arms/bucket. Took me many hours to clean, sand, prime, and paint. You will also notice that the pivot pins on the low part of the bucket and the ones further up the arm near the "CK" letters, that they do not have grease fittings. Kind of annoys me knowing I cant pump fresh grease in those 4 joints. I took the uppers ones out and cleaned/oiled/and greased them and put them back in, but still need to do that to the lower ones. This bolt was dry and rusty when I took it out......cleaned it up and oiled/greased inside and the bolt. After primer and 2 coats of paint:
Glad to hear you survived looks like a lot of drifting how many inches total did you end up with ???? it does get heavy when it starts warming up hopefully it melts off slow to avoid the floods...
yea my disconnects are by the rear axle and that weight is one heavy sucker i used a floor model motorcycle jack to lift it..My loader is a greasy mess i believe i will be a minute or two just getting it clean but im real glad to have it to this point after this is the backhoe and i want to rework the bushings for the stabilizers they are real sloppy then the rops...
Xpac.....they are saying we got about 30 inches, but I would say it was more like 26, but with some pretty deep drifting areas. Speak of flooding, up in Jersey, they had a mess with the sea flooding some towns....I cant imagine having a couple feet of icy sea water flood my home. Grady......Good thing was that we had great weather today.....sunshine and no wind. Glad I dont live in the cities which got slammed, but in the country with plenty of elbow room. One thing about this storm and the fine texture of the snow......the stuff went absolutely everywhere. It blew into any little opening and accumulated, north, south, east, and west. Floor jack.....Yea, I imagine that sucker was a real pain. Working on the loader, now its all down-hill for you. Dont worry.....there will be plenty of mud holes left over from winter to run the Voodoo Queen through when you are all done.
Hey xpack. I just did my stabilizer bushings before winter. I ordered all the bushings online from EPS I think. I was able to reuse the pins. I used a rosebud torch to get the loader frame hot enough to get the pins hammered out. Without the heat, they wouldn't move. After the pins were out I pushed out the old bushings. Interesting tip here... There are two bushings in the frame and two bushings in each stabilizer arm. In the arm there is a piece of thin wall pipe or something similar in the arm in between both bushings. This is called a spacer in the parts manual but it is nothing more than a piece of exhaust pipe. It looks like it is designed to keep dirt away from the pin that gets in that hollow stabilizer arm. I was able to reuse my one side spacer, but the right side spacer I had to make out of a piece of stainless exhaust. I also ordered new snap rings and washers for this application, so I ordered extra washers on purpose. I hammered a washer in between the stabilizer arm and the backhoe frame before reinstalling the pin. It was just what the doctor ordered to take up the slack from years of back and forth movement while digging. With that washer in there and the new bushings my CK doesn't move forward or backward at all while using the how now. Easy work. Just time consuming. I also had the rear tire off and the backhoe on the machine while I did the repair. I used a jackstand to hold it up with no rear tire.
fliptop thanks for the heads up thats coming after the loader is done i know mine is wore out pretty bad i will be surprised if i even have any bushings left it was like this when i got it i am hoping i can just buy replacement bushing like you did but worst case i know a couple machinist that i could get to build some for it I wondered about the bushing setup for the arm if it was one long one with it being two it probably is easier to assemble and hopefully i will find out i can go that route and just order them instead of having them built.I do have a rosebud and just filled my tanks sounds like im gonna need them...Thanks
Fliptop/Xpac........I will also have to attack the stabilizier bushings at some point. I will bet you a silver dollar that mine have more front-to-rear slop in them than Xpacs. Pretty old and neglected:
wrong button
68 when you painted the linkages and dump cylinders did you remove all of the linkages and cylinders to paint them im thinking right now it would probably be best just to remove it all then go hit the carwash with them and paint them while there off my first thought was leave them on but seems better to just take the hit and remove them also you got any close ups where your return to dig linkage (rod) goes threw the hole on the right side plate or linkage setting on the seat looking forward on mine someone has welded a big plate to my loader arm and they did a nice job but im afraid when my return to dig is pushed threw the dump linkage hole it will rub or hit that welded on plate. In this pic you can see the welded plate, its where it is all rusty between the CK letters and where the front mount for the cylinder is.I may need to fab something for the rtd linkage to hook up different. removing that welded plate really isnt a option.
Xpack, You are moving along nicely. My turn may start tomorrow if all goes as planned. The repair of the loader arm is common to these machines. If I recall, its something to do with the stress caused by the leveling cylinder. On my CK, the repair is pretty ugly and the gusset plates were cracked again when I bought the machine. Damage from rolling the bucket while lifting can sometimes be seen in the tops of the loader frame where the shaft for the loader arms goes through. The leveling cylinder was off the machine with a broken of rod eye, something to do with abuse by somebody who borrowed the machine. I never reinstalled it but have been thinking it will go back on this time around. I'm likely going to find an undamaged loader arm to replace the one I currently have. Problem will be finding something close enough to warrant a road trip. Idaho or northern California will about the limit if I make it part of a short vacation... We were in town today by boat and its a pretty decent almost spring day here. I understand for 68case and maybe yourself, not so much.
Jusk i remember reading something on here about that load leveler cylinder raising havoc with these a while back mine has also been welded by the gussets but i think i will just try to clean and reweld any cracks i can. I actually seen one the other day on ebay in Pennsylvania for a $500.00 starting bid with cylinders and it looked pretty clean but i just looked after reading this and it appears its no longer posted had it of been closer i might of checked it out ... We dodged the bullet this time but 68 took a hit.. Im watching for you to get fired in on your project it will be neat to follow your progress on the stuff i didnt have to fool with. I drove mine the other day a little bit more and still get that reverse/forward thing acts like it dont release quick immediately after you start the tractor i am starting to think its just a cold thing as i dont have to move it very far and it releases great. So far it has made a major difference as soon as i start it (with no warm up) its ready to move and at best on a hot day before this i would have to raise a tire throw it in gear and let it warm for about 20 minutes and i feel it when i go from forward to reverse grabbing with force and its ready to go. If you decide to rebuild your shuttle there are about 4 sealing rings that are inside the shuttle itself and 3 that go on the snout of the shaft, out of the 4 that are inside there are 2 bigger ones and 2 smaller ones the 2 smaller ones are in a position that they are hard to get at you will see what i mean if you do this.I actually broke the new ones and had to reorder a whole new kit as they wont sell them separately the first attempt was me trying by myself and thats how i broke them the second successful attempt was my friend and me with enough fingers you can fairly easy collapse the ring all the way around the shaft so you can clip the ends together but dont try this by yourself or you may end up buying the whole set like i did. These rings remind you of piston rings (there just as brittle) but they clip together at the ends... Sorry for being so long winded but hopefully you can avoid the mistake i made.....
ok 68 thanks great pics to
Xpac.....Some of the grueling bucket repaint pics: Bucket done!!! Sigh of relief: Greased Lightning doing a victory pose:
Xpac......I guess you could always drill another hole about an inch higher than the original hole, and then mount the RTDig linkage through it. That shouldnt change the indicator gauge much, if at all.
As shelby on ax men would say HERE WE GO as you all know ol 68 and myself have done a little crazyness on here and because i have done so much to clean and fix ol MARIE LAVAEU up i couldnt possibly go without 68 convincing me i needed ol abe put on his roost so earlier today he was finally mounted (with his nuts) between the headlights but something didnt seem quit right with ole abe as i was sure i cought him looking up. Anyway i had to leave for the rest of the day while ol abe was on his roost...something seemed different with my ol abe vs 68's ol abe maybe mine is a :naughty:naughtyyoung abe...:naughty:naughty
Heres the one with ol (young abe ) looking up just before i left
And as i had said in a earlier post i had a couple things up my crazy sleeve this is where i probably tipped one to many so i fugured with a name like Marie Laveau this had to happen and yea her wings light up
So when i got back i went to check on ol abe and found this yea those are blue pills hahahahah:falldownlaugh:falldownlaugh:falldownlaugh:falldownlaugh at this point your thinking ol xpack has breathed in to many paint fumes and your probably right:crazy:crazy i had to threaten ol abe with this lets hope it worked hahaha:falldownlaugh:falldownlaugh:falldownlaugh
last one View attachment 148936
ointlaugh ointlaugh X P A C !!!!!!!! Im laughing my brass ballzzz right off! Those pics and story are h i l l a r i o u s!!!!! Looks like Old Abe had grabbed one of your smokes, and a cold brewski from the frig, and you caught him snuggling up to the Voodoo Queen. My question is, did the Voodoo Queen give Old Abe the pills, or did he slap them down on the hood to impress her? Did Old Abe's affections cause her wings to fire up???? Haaaaa haaaaa, Heeeeeeeee- Hawwwwwwwww :lmao:lmao:lmao: :falldownlaugh lmao:lmao:lmao:lmao
If you guys are having a contest about whose stabilizers have the most play, I want in. I think the guys I got mine from were allergic to grease. I think they also used the outriggers for brakes because my upper mounts are angled instead of being square to the machine like '68's. What does it take to bend steel that thick? Even though they have a lot of play, so does most of the other joints so I don't think much of it. It still digs just fine. A little slop might keep things from breaking - just so nothing is rubbing where it shouldn't be - like on the body of the cylinder. Pretty sure mine can rub on the tires when they flop forward.
Xpac......Watch out.......Old Abe is gonna grab that stick welder and fire you up!!!!!!!!!! I wouldnt trust that chrome bird......better watch your back. Are those horns like firetruck sirens? Thats the wildest 580CK I have ever seen! I vote that the Heavy Equip. Forum give you an award for this restoration project......"Best Wild-N-Krazy Restoration". :drinkup :notworthy :drinkup
Grady.......Just for the heck of it, and in good sportsmanship, Im gonna place a level stick beside my outriggers and measure in inches how much they swing back n forth. You might have more bend in those thick steel brackets, but I think I have more wear in the bushings. My stabilizer cylinders have a slight bend from hitting the tires. Will post my results after some of this snow is history. Thats a good question......how much do you have to heat those thick mounts before pounding to get them to move back? I also thought about that.....having a good amount of slop prevents breakage. Valid way of thinking, in my opinion.
I think we need to get Jay Leno to ship Xpac's CK out to his museum and then do a special show on this this crazy 580CK.
hahaha the biggest challenge will be not breaking the wings off when i flip dirt out of the bucket and it lands on the hood.....the horns are little sound like air sirens there cheap but there chrome hahaha grady i wondered if mine were primary brakes as well when i got it there were no brakes my tractor moves a whole lot when im digging with them down thats why im gonna try to fix it when i get to the backhoe i will be surprised if i even have bushings there probably gone my pins for them have welded washers on one end and holes for a bolt which occasionally gets pinched with the movement and it breaks the bolt.....
I figured you would get a kick out of this one i had to laugh at it myself hopefully others will get a laugh as well ,my only fear now is i hope theres not a bunch of baby voodoo abes running around i will have to try to sell them off hahahaa:falldownlaugh
Xpac......Those "baby Voodoo Abes".....well, you can easily sell them off to Dale, since he has that extra box of nuts to put on them. Haaaaa haaaa, heee-hawww.
xpack, Don't blame Abe. He didn't stand a chance against that Voodoo mojo. That's quite a hood ornament and quite a story. Let that be a lesson to those who think you don't need adequate respiratory protection from paint fumes. I like the build up to the story. It reminded me of the door to my woodshop. I can only show you one side. The other side is the logical progression but I don't want to offend anyone or violate any standards of good taste. I did have to install a brass coat hook above the carving on the inside to protect the innocence of small children.
'68, That was just a rhetorical question about - "What does it take to bend steel as thick as those stabilizer mounts?" I have no intention of trying to straighten them. I was just wondering what did it. They bend toward the back of the machine, not toward the tires so it's not my biggest concern. Like I said, she digs just fine. xpack, I didn't say it so I don't know if it was clear that the characters in both carvings are the same. Although you had the good taste to limit your's to the "before" and "after", the inside of my door leaves no mystery. It's not graphic, just suggestive. I'll PM if you care.
haha grady thats funny absolutely pm it to me im sure i will get a kick out of it ahh heck you just gotta enjoy it while you can im sure there are some who will get a kick out of this kinda stuff lifes to crazy without this kinda stuff.Besides if i was a chrome bird mounted under a chrome gal with lines like hers i know i would leave the roost to...:woohoo:woohoo My adult kids seen the post and laughed there butts off then told me they were impressed that i knew how to use a imo or something like that,I said what the heck is a imo ???? They said its those little smiley faced things stupid me didnt have a clue that they had a name hahahaha
I think that's short for "emoji" or something like that. Ask a kid if you want to know anything about these computers.
xpack. 68case and grady, You guys are killing me. I had a good laugh at Old Abe's antics and the new winged girl on the hood. My old rust bucket had the original Case emblem, with some red enamel in it IIRC, but while it was parked at the storage yard waiting for me to take it home again, the bird flew the coop. I can only hope that whoever got it treasures the original and that karma catches up sooner or later.... I'm now officially started on my project, as this morning we moved (pushed, pulled and dragged) her onto the concrete in front of the shop. Of course, we had nice weather for the last few days but today it had to rain. Later, I'll post up the picture on my project thread.
Hey jusk glad to hear you got her up there i just bet it was a project onto its own and you can bet i will be watching your thread im currently in the process of cleaning the loader to get it ready for paint and man i wish i would of put the pressure washer to this part a lot more like 68 says lots of nooks and crannies to clean and it is a real pain pressure wash the crap out of yours if your gonna paint it you will be glad you did.....I think ol 68 has started something with the ol abe and to be honest i couldnt possibly do this much to mine without flying the bird now i know it exists, almost a right of passage after all this........
Grady.......Funny......Ole Xpac sucked in way too many fumes, and I tell you.....that cigarette that Ole Abe was about to fire-up could have taken out the entire shop. Nice wood carving, and Im sure the other side is tastefully original and in the spirit of the "Old Abe Ethics". The only reason for the coat hook would be so Old Abe could find a perch to get a better view of the art work. Whats the story of the carving.....something you took the time to make, or a rare find up in Ammish country?
Xpac/Juskatla........I think Dale at TractorStuff had better order another 100 chrome "Old Abes" to have on hand as the orders start pouring in after people read this thread. He has plenty of knutz, so now just more chrome birds.
She got a new old center cap for the steering wheel and suicide knob
these are the short bushings that go threw the loader arms and into the hydraulic tanks so when you want to remove your loader you remove the long threaded rod then these bushings will hold the loader so it dont just fall there pretty much half in loader arms and the other half in the tanks
Xpac.....Hey, where did you find the center cap for the steering wheel? TractorStuff? I need to find one of those too. Hey, hyour intstrument cluster looks almost as complex as a F16 Fighter. Are those small black buttons above the steering column for your Sidewinder missles, or maybe your 50 cal cannon? Looking nice.
Xpac.....thanks for posting those pics......I will need to remove the long threaded rod and find out why it will not tighten and close up the gap on each side. Good time to clean them up and pack fresh grease on them like you did.
The center cap was located by Dale at tractorstuff he had to hunt one down but as usual he located it and got it for me looks way better than going with out it funny how this is working out when i was using ol Marie prior to this rebuild i didnt think twice about a busted up steering wheel or a center cap dont get me wrong i always knew i wanted to make these repairs but at the time they werent a big issue. But now im looking at all this stuff and just want to get it right the first time and be done with it for a while you know at least until the wife needs to use it for my hole hahhah I know theres a lot of gauges but i like gauges i really like the volt meter vs the old amp gauge and i cant wait to see what the water and shuttle temp will be when i get to work her in hot weather. one of those black buttons are wired up to ol abes auto eject perch so if he starts his stuff with Marie while im working ol Marie i can blast his a-- hahah
Xpac......Ok, I will have to add that steering wheel cap to my "want list" so I can order it with some other stuff from Dale. You better get the wife out on the Voodoo Queen and teach her how to dig a 6 foot deep trench......ha ha. I agree....a volt gauge would be nice, so you can check the volts prior to cranking. I am always grabbing my test meter to check the battery before cranking. Poor ole Abe......like the old 50's song, "Why is everybody always a-pickin on me?" Abe says its all your fault by placing that sex goddess right over his head......he is about to crack and peel the chrome on his neck by looking upward so hard. Hey, ole Marie might get lonely up there on the hood, and she might be the one to pull up roots and go knocking on Abe's roost.
xpack, That hood ornament reminds me of one from a Packard but with a nicer "rack" - never mind the wings that light up. The Voodoo Queen has become an instant classic.
68 me and that bird will probably be having words this summer he will want to play while i want to work :shf:shf I keep telling everyone dont mess with Marie or she will put a spell on ya :nono:nono grady as soon as i seen that chrome plated lady with orange wings and awesome curves i knew she just fit with everything i just wish 68 would of warned me about ol abes ambitions :naughty:naughty
loader got first coat
did the tops of pedals with truck bed liner (cant hurt)
Xpac.....that was a good idea for the tops of the pedals.....your two "steps" ahead of me, as you step on those pedals.
Xpac......first coat of yeller on the loader is looking great. I cant believe you cleaned her up and got this far in a day.....you really shake, rattle, and roll!!! (Actually, you use the cans....so you do the shaking and rattling, while I use the brush/roller and so I am doing the rollin). Ha ha. :drinkup
It is a pain cleaning after rags,gas and a brush,more rags, brakeparts cleaner.and a wirewheel,wirebrush,and a lot of hours yesterday i finally got all the grease and oil removed and painting wasnt any easier like you said lots of nooks and crannies it will get a second coat and i just gotta tell you ,that had to of been pretty tough with the brush an roller it was a pain with rattle cans it took 10 cans for the first coat and needs a good second coat oh well it needed it and it looks a whole lot better now...... I also am waiting on a small roll of that black non slip tape im going to try to put it on the floor pans ??? i will post how it turns out when i get it done just trying to protect the paint a little longer........
Xpac......Yep......wire brushing/sanding/degreasing the loader and the arms were a pain. 10 cans of paint for the first coat....wow. With that in mind, the brush/roller method is a bit cheaper (I used 2 gallons of Rusteolum yeller mix and 1 gallon of primer). So, my paint cost was around $90.). Guess we will see over the years what type of paint holds up the best. I have old carpet pieces on top the floor plates now to keep the paint from wearing, but plan to make some rubber mats that will stay in place. The non slip tape on the floor pans should help too. I think both Ole Abe and Ole Marie will appreciate their view of the freshly painted loader bucket. May want to add some Gorilla Glue to Abe's knutz so he wont be up on the hood assaulting Ole Marie.
xpack, I didn't know you were going to knock that out in a day or I would have stepped up a these pics a little. I see you have that chain hook in the middle of your bucket but you may want to add one on each end. It makes it easy to lift big rocks, stumps, logs, etc. with a chain. You just pull up to whatever you want to lift and uncurl the bucket, put the chain in one hook and then around whatever you're lifting and then in the other hook. When you curl the bucket, the chain holds the tension and you can drive off - or if it's a rock and small enough to fit in the bucket, it just flops right in. Just a thought. Here you can see my return to dig linkage - or what's left of it - as well as one of those mystery holes in the frame. You can also see a piece of channel coming up from the floor boards that used to have a heater core with a fan mounted to it because I have that cab that came with soft sides. I almost had to refinance for that new quick coupler.
Grady that sound like a good idea i have always shoved those monster stumps up against a dead tree or pile of dirt to convince them that they want to go in the bucket but i like your idea i see a trip to tsc before i get the final coat on it thanks for the tip... Something i did to my chain last year was put a regular hook on one end and what i call a slip hook on the other end (just a hook with a big opening) I use the slip end when im dragging the logs so when i get them to my pile i can usually unhook the chain just by using the up and down movement of the loader it works most of the time and keeps me in the seat to go get the next one. My neighbor just bought a 580b this summer and him and me did a bunch of stuff to it and he didnt get to play with it a whole lot before winter.But his has the clamshell on the front and wow man you can see where that would come in real handy for a whole bunch of stuff if i come across one of them for the right price i will own one....
grady, are the mystery holes the two in the plate where the remnants of the Return to Dig lever is located? If it is, those are bolt holes for the optional 3 spool loader valve, used with a 4 in 1 or Drott loader bucket in place of the standard two spool valve. It's on my list as I want to put a clamshell jaw on on my bucket. My groundman moved away and I'm getting tired of climbing on and off the machine to hook up the chains. My loader bucket has similar weld on hooks as yours, one in the middle and on each end of the bucket. Wouldn't be without them.
Heres a question for you guys today i let Marie set outside and run at idle while i did the painting (I am trying to get the thermostat to open) anyway my vent for the valve cover was mounted in the wrong place when i got the tractor and thanks to 68 and some great pics of his i got mine mounted in the right spot.But after idling for a while i pulled her back in the shop and now that everything is clean i seen some oil on the front axle not a whole lot but some im sure its coming out of that vent tube.My question is are you getting any oil from yours and what do you think causes this......It had to of been doing this before but i never noticed it with all the oil and grease around that area....any ideas
Cool cylinder temps from idleing. Work it so it will warm up and it should go away.
Juskatia, The "mystery" hole I was referring to is in the frame just off the lower left corner of that plate you were talking about. You might have to zoom in a little to see it better. There is one on each side of the machine. They seem to get used for a variety of things. Check out a few pages back. What do you use yours for? Mine are both empty. Xpack, the best thing about those opposing hooks are for moving the things that don't fit in the bucket like big stumps. I even moved a small shed the same way - got the forks under one side and wrapped a chain around it. The slip and grab hooks are good, too, but being able to attach a chain can be really handy. I even welded one on the back to take the strain off the boom cylinder. It came with those thin slip hooks but one didn't hold up to the strain over the years. I think I have a pic.
Every picture tells a story but these tell several. What's that stabilizer pin up to? Nice hydraulic hose, I think it still has some life left in it. You can see the scratch marks on the cylinder from the chains but that's either from while digging or from trying to drive off with the "parking brake" down. If you look at the mounts in the pic on the left, you can see a slight bend or angle toward the rear. It's hard to believe that metal that thick and that short could bend without just breaking the weld but the other side looks pretty straight. Were they straight from the factory? My C's stabilizers are factory skewed to the rear and don't come as close to the tires that are much bigger. The chain goes from one side through a loop under the boom to the other side. I work the boom while standing behind the machine with the chain in my hand and attach it to the grab hook when the boom gets all the way up - not osha approved but works good. Both newer machines have the transport lock but this is the Flintstone's version.
'68, I went back and looked at your stabilizer mount pics and the lower one looked just like mine - it must be a slight factory bend. What about yours xpack and Juskatia?
Grady.......Wow....that stabilizer pin is trying to go AWOL on you. Now Im thinking that you might have more slop in yours than I have. I still am gonna measure the slop with a vertical pole, and let you know. I tend to think these were supposed to be straight from the factory, and years of abuse have bent them back some......but who knows, maybe sometimes the welder got them off a bit. That hydraulic line......yea, just shoot some WD40 on the rusty braiding to slow down the rust, and then a good wrap of Duct tape, and she will probably hold out another 5 years. After spending a TON in new hydraulic lines, my wallet was getting thin, and some of the lower backhoe lines, I pulled out the Duct tape. (See the duct tape on the lower lines to the swing cylinders):
Jusktatla.......Im wondering what the story is that caused the ReturnToDig part to break off like it did. That took alot of force to snap that off. I just cant picture what would have caused that......maybe the long rod was way out of adjustment when some Knucklehead put it back on, and the first time he went to use it, the rod slammed down on this part and drove it just too far. I can see the shop forman chasing this Knucklehead around with a long 2x4, cursing him for his stupidity......saying, "Thats coming out of your paycheck you Knucklehead, and you still owe us for welding those tie-rods on Xpacs and 68's CKs!!!!" :bouncegri
'68, I think you're looking at my rig with the broken linkage. I might just leave it like that. I've always just used that indicator on the loader arm to determine what angle I want the bucket to be at and it's been that way for 35 years so it's not a big issue - like that hydraulic hose. I've been looking at a hose crimper so I can make my own hoses. The pre-made or custom ones are pricey and the down time sucks. I like the bucket float feature for plowing snow, scraping the carpet of leaves off the road or back dragging to smooth things out. It's my favorite. You can see where the control stop on the handle hits the plate where the paint is chipped off. You guys better put some bed liner there if you're going to use it ; ) I'm just jealous of that shine. So, curling the bucket while lifting the loader is a bad idea? I noticed that your LH rear loop failed same as mine. You probably welded it back cause it's original but I gave mine the grab hook because I'm a practical hack. If the other one breaks, I'm going to give that side a grab hook, too.
Ok if i win this contest i will have to forfeit the trophy to one of you guys because i simply dont have anymore room on my hood to mount it hahah Check out this new discovery i noticed it while taking these pics thank god i have a welder.... Hey 68 that big washer on you cylinder pin looks like a lot of my pins with a bolt threw them instead of the snap ring mine moves so bad it will break the rigged up pin bolts...
if you look close you will see the black line of oil that was coming out of my valve cover breather tube and i while i was checking it out i noticed that where the tube was coming out of the hose at the valve cover it was running downward so any little mist of oil had no choice but to come out the end..So for the heck of it it took off the tube and put a bend in it so it had to run towards the valve cover and pulled it outside and left it run while i put on the 2nd coat on the loader. Then i pulled her back in the shop and so far all looks good i dont see anything as bad as it was running downward it realy had no choice but to drip some .... this is after i bent the tube
Ok grady i took your advise to heart thanks for the tip im sure this will be a good thing, i made a visit to tsc man that new paint stinks when it gets hot haha
68 this coat only took 4.5 cans and one numb finger tip no doubt yours is the cheaper way to do it we all should just split the cost and buy keg of beer and a dip tank full of yellow paint and just dip them gradys 3 should be enough to lift 1 at a time and dip the whole thing.And gradys thinking 2 kegs :beerchug:beerchug:beerchug hahaha final coat
Grady...Yea, I noticed the grab hook welded to your backhoe base.....great idea....far stronger than those little loops that came from the factory. I might do as you have done, and weld hooks there. Hey......describe the "bucket float feature". Is that something that I have, but have been too much of a Knucklehead to figger out how to use it?
Xpac......Ouch! Looks like a few more stumps and your "Parking Brake" out-riggers would have just fallen off.....either because of the busted weld, or the failing pin. Good time for some TLC. I bought a ton of large washers from Fastenall......guy asked if I was planning to play a game called "Washer Toss", or something like that. I guess they use horseshoe pole and toss big washers instead of the shoes. I spent about $100 on various large washers, and was planning on inserting wherever I wanted to reduce the slop.
Xpac......Hey, I was wondering if you managed to run the engine with the valve cover off after you adjusted the valves. If you did, did you see an insane amount of oil being pumped up to the rockers? When I adjusted my valves, I wanted to make sure that she was getting oil up there, so I watched as the engine was running.......and the oil flow was not a massive amount, but sufficient to get oil up where it needs to go. Im just wondering if maybe your pump is going a bit crazy and tossing too much oil up to the attic. My line runs level accross the valve cover and over to where the metal tube bends and goes down. Im gonna put a rag at the end of it just to see if I have oil coming out too. It just seems that you should not be getting that much oil coming out of it.
Xpac.....Your front bucket is looking damn good! I like your dipping method......that would save alot of time, pain, and suffering.....for sure. Cheers to a job well done.........:drinkup I understand your pain regarding the "numb finger tip"......going thru that many cans of paint is tough on that index finger tip.......another "thumbs-up" reason for the brush and roller technique. Hey, I see we both have a bit of a bend in the top of our loader bucket. What is the theoretical maximum lifting load on these old CKs? Around 5000lbs???? See the big "ears" or lifting prongs on the top of my bucket.......you think some Knucklehead fabricated them himself, or are they a custom part that could be ordered "back in the day"?
if they were fabbed they did a pretty good job i think those were used for a set of forks that had a bar across the top of them then you could just curl your bucket and hook the bar and that fast you have forks i had thought about doing some like that but i am liking the 4-1 bucket idea instead just got to find the right deal. I have forks for the kubota and i also have aux hyd in the front so i rigged up a cylinder in the middle with a long piece of steel so i can use them kinda like a grapple to move brush.But that 4-1 would be a lot easier.....
heres that no slip tape stuff installed, when i did the throttle pedal and the step for the backhoe i wanted some grit so i put on a coat of truck bed liner then sprinkled some sand on them then another coat of truck bed liner and it works good to give it some grit.....
68 no mine was apart when i adjusted them so i couldnt start it i know mine runs with 70-72 on the oil pressure....My tupe had to be leaking before but i couldnt see it because of all the oil/grease all over the place.....Mine only looked like a lot leaking in the pic because its fresh paint hahahha
Xpac......Hey, thanks for that info.....I had never thought that they might have been for a bar/forks.....I think you are right. Having a cylinder to drop down a grapple on the brush would definatelty be helpful.
Xpac....Great idea on the textured surface with sand added. Should greatly reduce the risk of slipping and falling off......and as we get older, thats the last thing we need.....to fall off and pull a disc or dislocate something.
Xpac.....Ok. Well, I will let you know if I see oil dripping out of my vent pipe. Im curious as to what the experts at this site would say. Almost as if the drain ports up near the rockers are not letting the oil drain back down, and thus you are getting excessive oil amounts, which then bubble up the relief tube. Im probably wrong, but something "smells in Denmark".
Hey 51kw i had let it warm up to 160 and idled it up to about 600 rpm for about a hour but i cant really work it right now but i did put a little bend in the tube so it has to run back to the valve cover....whenever i see this happening i think of blowby causing to much crankcase pressure but this thing seems to run great???? For now it isnt leaking anything but i am with 68 something dont seem right.I know for right now i am not that concerned about it i just didnt like the little bit i was getting out of it.....Thanks for the help
xpack, That no slip stuff looks good and is a good idea. A little snow or even wet boots on that painted metal is slippryer than a peeled onion as an old timer I knew used to say. Even if you can't work it, you can idle it up to working speed as if you were going to dig and work some of the hydraulics. It won't get as hot as when you're working but it will warm up more than a slow idle. I think you can get valve deposits from too much slow idling. Wind her up a little. '68, That "float" I was talking about is when you take the front bucket control and jam it down all the way until it hits the stop. That's what the piece of metal on the handle is for. It makes the bucket float and follow the contour of the ground. Sometimes it lifts the front end some but you can readjust if it gets dicey. To go back to normal you just pull back on the handle. Once you get the hang of it you'll find it's really useful - like I said, it's my favorite - especially for back dragging to smooth things out after you make a mess. It's handy for road work, too, if you don't have a dozer handy. Spread and rough grade the material and then back drag with the float. It will almost look like you knew what you were doing - not that it matters because it's so much fun - like being back in the sandbox.
Grady.........I knew we had the Return To Dig feature, but had never known about the "float" ability. You sure it was standard on the late 60's loaders? In this pic, do you mean pushing the loader handle all the way "downward", or all the way "upward/forward"? Would be nice if I had this float option, as in the past I would often raise the front tires while backdragging. I will glance thru the owners manual and see if there is any mention to the "float" option.
I have no idea about what year came with what but I think I can see that you have the stop on your loader handle so I bet you do. If I could see the handle from the side… It's a piece of steel welded to the front of the control. You push the lever all the way forward as far as it will go to enter float. Up or down is misleading because pushing it forward will bring the stop down onto that metal plate and the handle will stay there. To release, you pull back on the handle and it goes back to normal operation. You don't have to back drag in float. If your area is flat, it's less of an issue. Float lets it follow the contour of the land while still applying down pressure. Try it and see. I'll bet you like it. I like to use the individual brake pedals to help steer with going in either direction - especially when grading, scraping, or pushing snow - but anytime you need to turn sharply or get in or out of a tight spot. I have a question. With all that return to dig linkage there, where do you put your beer?
grady/68 mine has the float on my kubota and the 580 all i do is shove the loader valve all the way forward and when you think your all the way forward keep shoving then on both of mine i can feel it detent into the float position it must be a detent in the valve that holds it in the float position ....68 when your all the way forward or what you think is all the way forward try to put more pressure forward and see if it moves more and detents if it does thats the float grady is talking about and like grady says the bucket will float with the contour of the land.Let us know if you have it or not..... grady im gonna look at a motorcycle beer holder for mine that mounts to the rops and swivels so you dont spill the beer i used to have my wife as the beer holder when i used to ride my harley and drink more in my younger days geez i dont know how i survived that part of life, but its not even a option today on the harley but the 580 it does happen now and then and my wife has retired from being a beer holder now she carries a club to keep me in line :bash:bashhahaha
Grady......Amazing....this is like Christmas all over again....Im getting new free options that I did not know were there.......the RTDig, and now the "Float". Here is the side picture. Im betting you are right, and I have this feature......just something I never knew was there. Thanks much! I will try pushing it forward and see if that detent action is taking place. Excellent!
It's probably better than xmas because this is really fun and something you can really use. Go add on to your driveway or something and try it out.
Grady.....Yea, I can add a nice long straight-way using this new "float-action".........and make plenty of landing room for when Juskatla has his rig up and flying again. Or was it Xpac who has all those high-tech F16 Instrumentation gauges going on?
A landing strip would be nice. I'd put one in if I had enough flat area but I'm on the side of a hill. The voodoo queen probably doesn't even need a runway - she'll probably just materialize in your back yard some night while you're sleeping.
Installed the pump
pulled the loader out getting ready to install
heres a shot of the bushing that goes threw the loader and into the hyd tank here it is all the way in then slide the threaded rod threw
loader installed
68 i noticed today that the threaded rod on the right side (Return to dig side) the threads themselves arent as long as the ones on the other side and the nut on the right side is bottomed out so i took some pics of it for you might help you see if your is all the way threaded in or not ????? right side left side heres a good one of that bucket level gauge
And when she does you will wonder what that familiar noise is in your backyard so you will go to investigate the situation and at that time you will understand what im talking about with this chrome bird :falldownlaugh:falldownlaugh
Xpac.....Bravo! Bravo! Bravo! :notworthy Great job getting the loader bucket back on......man, she is looking S W E E T ! ! The Voodoo Queen is the Icing on the cake......Im still getting a kick out of that, and the orange wings match perfectly. Hey, did you decide just to pass on the clear coat over the paint? Your finger is probably telling you, "No way Im gonna be pushing down on any more paint caps!"
Xpac......Great idea using orange to highlight the loader level gauge......I was planning on doing the same, and maybe toss a couple black lines.....one line for level forks, and the other line for the bucket at 5 degrees. The pics of the threaded rod is a BIG help. :thumbsup I was thinking that there was supposed to be about the same amount of threads on both sides. So, I must have one torqued down to its thread limit, and thats why it will not go any further. If I cant tighten the other side to close up the gap, then I may have to take a nut off and add a washer or two. I also noticed that on the right side, you dont want the threads sticking out so far as to interfere with the RTDig rod linkage. Did you manage to close up the gap to where they are fairly snug (say about 1/32" gap?)
Xpac/Grady........Hey, the "situation" may get kinda hairy here........My Old Abe may decide he is gonna take a liking to the Voodoo Queen also.......so, we may have a grand ole fight between the two chrome birds. Voodoo Queen will look over in disgust and say, "Stop raising your feathers boys......theres enough of me to go around for the two of you!" For the sake of the Ole Abes, I hope she aint like a Preying Mantice, and decides to eat both of them after the joy ride. :falldownlaugh
- or a black widow..... xpack, I'd be concerned for the safety of your hood ornament if it were on my machine. I don't know what your terrain looks like or what kind of work you plan on doing with her but low branches and stray pieces of brush or roots have a way of getting to the places you least want them. Maybe she can use some of that voodoo mojo to keep them at bay. She sure is looking fine.
Did you manage to close up the gap to where they are fairly snug (say about 1/32" gap?) there is a gap on both sides 1/16 to 1/8 but i think there needs to be the bushing in the earlier pic are drawed up tight with the threaded rod.....
:ideaVOODOO ABE BABIES FOR SALE :idea
Mine is low land but i use it a lot for the trees,wood cutting, and brush and i know what you mean about it going where you dont want it i also think of the times i have had dirt on the hood that flips out of the bucket.... I am concerned about just that but what the heck i will enjoy it while it last.I wonder how much a plastic welder is hahahah
No big deal if she gets her wings clipped or wounded in action. All machines have battle scars - doesn't hurt anything. Epoxy is cheap and easy and I saw some new fangled plastic "welder" on TV that uses blue light to activate some kind of adhesive. I don't know if it's a "Ginsu" type of thing or what but if you order now we're going to throw in an additional one for only the shipping and handling!
Xpac......Haaaaaaaa haaa, heeeeee-hawwwww. Just box the Voodoo Abe babies up and send them to TractorStuff Orphanage.....Dale will find good homes for them.
Heres a shot of the hyd sight glass with the oil level
68 heres the gap both sides return to dig side other side
she got some new tattoo's and 1 coat of clear coat over the tattoo
and another one
She went outside to strut her stuff
a few more
one more
Wow, Pretty spiffy. That thing looks better than the day it rolled off the line. Nice job. Now I wanna see some pics of her getting down and dirty.
Xpac.......Man, that is one B A D A S Z Z 580CK!!! The Lady is looking fine, But you could use a shine! Those Voodoo Queen stickers look great on each side of the headlights. I like that little "****-eatin grin" that those hydraulic hoses in front of the new grill creates. Great idea of wrapping them in electrical tape to keep them together......I might do the same thing. The honeycomb grill looks great! After you get the fenders painted and in place, you will have to do a quick Youtube video of a cold start and demonstrate the horns and that back-up bell. :notworthy:notworthy
Xpac......I really like the hydraulic fluid sight glass......definately on my "to do" list. Sure beats either over-filling, or having the fluid flow out the overfill hole and all over the side of the tractor and onto the ground. Hey....I see the gap in the pics.....Is that as far as the nut would tighten, or did you stop at that point? I think I have a over a 1/2" gap on one side, and the nuts did not want to tighten any further. Something I want to fix this spring. Also, I guess you did not yet put the grease gun to the fittings? I dont see the grease oozing out onto the nice fresh paint.
Hey Xpac.......I did some quick reading about this Voodoo Queen.....born around 1800 down in NawLeans. I think she had 11 children, but only one managed to grow to adulthood. Her husband also "disappeared", and she had her own brothel. I think the chrome bird "Ole Abe" might be a bit worried if he knew about her reputation down in NawLeans, and all her kids and husband disappearing. But I better hush-up, as I dont want Voodoo Queen to put some sort of curse on me.....Ha haaaaaaa.
Believe me grady she will be slinging mud in no time along with that i will be counting the splats of mud and crying at each one hahaha
68 the nuts are all the way tight i didnt stop short i think you have something going on with yours with a 1/2 gap.I didnt think to measure the length of the bushings but when there pushed threw the loader arms and into the hyd tank they end up almost flush and as long as yours are almost flush it has to be the threaded rod....I havent greased her yet i am waiting for abe to go to sleep with abe being awake imagine what he would do with all that extra grease YEEEEEE.....HAAAAA......hahaha
I have been listening to a new radio station that plays oldies and they play the Marie Laveau song now and then and theres a guy in the song by the name of handsome Jack and he gets voodooed its pretty funny i have always liked that song its got a cool beat.I actually had ask my son to help me figure out how to push a horn button and it play that song but it ended up being to much so i flagged that idea but it would of been cool.I have asked quit a few people if they knew that song and they didnt until i played it for them then they knew at least older people did ....
Thats funny you say that about the **** eatin grin because i was thinkin the same thing when i looked at it i guess it just fits with everything else hahaha And the bell has already got me a couple times when i hear that first ding i have grabbed for the brakes a couple of times thinking something was wrong i just got to remember its there..... I cant put the fenders on until i get the rops on because the will mount to that now.... But now i can get after that poor old backhoe im hoping to get it pressure washed and put in the shop tomorrow we will see how that goes ????? After the backhoe will be the rops in the shop to clean and paint, and the fenders ......
xpack, She's looking real fine. All the work you put into this is beginning to show. I can see the shine even from here. After looking at your pictures of the loader arms and shaft in place, I went to look at mine for comparison. On mine, the top of the loader reservoirs had been rebuilt at some point in the past. On the one end of the shaft, the nut is right out at the end with a washer behind it. The other end has a 1/8 spacer washer between the tower and the loader arm and the threads extend beyond the nut by 1 1/2". I think that the tube determines the space between the towers and any bending or twisting of the loader arms could change the clearance. I looked but couldn't find any reference to measurements for this anywhere. Yours looks like it has come back together nicely and if 68case has a significant gap, a washer like on mine would take up most of the side movement. I did find in the manual that on the cylinders, they recommend using washers on one side to eliminate most of the movement. I'm thinking this would keep wear even in the bushings, rather than on one end or the other. I'm curious about the rattle can paint and how many you have used so far, both for the orange and yellow. I'm not sure how I will attack that when the time comes and still can't decide on which yellow. I see Industrial Yellow is common, Old Cat Yellow and School Bus Yellow like on my Brush Bandit chipper but yours and 68case both look great too. Once I decide, it will become the 'Fleet' colour here and after the tractor and backhoe, the chipper and air compressor will get the treatment.
Xpac......Haaaaaa, haaaaa, heeeee-hawwwwww! :roll :falldownlaugh :roll Your crazey as usual Not that you have schooled me on how to remove the threaded rod, its on my list, and will be alot easier to do now.
Jusk it would be neat if you could take a couple pics of your threaded rod ends with a tape like i did so we could compare,I am wondering if yours on the return to dig side the nut is not bottomed out on the threads like mine is therefore you have the spacer and more threads on the other side???here is a pic of the return to dig side the threads are shorter on this side i think they have to be or you could potentially hit the return to dig linkage if they were longer you can see the nut is bottomed out Geez i wish i would of keep track of the paint better than i did but on the orange im thinking 8-10 on the yellow so far its gotta be close to 30 and i am paying just a little less that $5.00 a can so you can figure about $200.00 in what i have done right now im pretty sure 68 has a lot less in his for paint cost. I just dont have the time for painting with the roller and brush and i thought about buying the paint like 68 did and shooting it threw my paint gun but doing a piece here and there and small sections here and there i didnt want all the cleanup everytime i had to spray something and for this i wanted the flexibility of painting this and that when i need to, I like the rattle cans for this because of convenience and ease of getting the awkward spots. It is by no means show quality but it looks pretty good and for this being the tractor that it is im happy with it .Unfortunately i not a big fan of rustoleum it never seems to harden like other paints do and they seem to control the market in rattle cans as far as color in big box stores....So thats what i went with.......It does get to the fingertip when you have big areas like the loader maybe one of those things that go on the rattle can would be a good thing?????/
After all that work, I believe you're gonna feel some pain for a while but after you get a few scratches on her, it won't hurt anymore. "What's it for but to use, aint it?" is what I was often told. I bet the pressure washer will get more use now though. Hey, it's just paint. There's plenty more where that came from.
Xpac.....I found the Marie Lavaue song on youtube, sung by Bobbie Bare. Just listened.....got a great beat, and a great story......Marie Lavaue sends her spell/curse on any man that leaves her and as the song goes "Another man done gone". Heres the link: (or just type in "bobby bare marie laveau" in youtube box) https://youtu.be/xpZzehuWdM4
grady your right about the pressure washer it will get used more now and your exactly right i bought it to use it the biggest reason i did this was it has proven its worth 46 yrs and still kicking i just wanted to get her ready for the next 45. It sometimes amazes me just how much work this old girl does and has turned into my favorite tractor of past and present .There have been days i have worked this tractor all day long and pretty hard and i feel like i had been in a marathon bar room brawl but the tractor is still wanting to go for me thats impressive.I wish i would of bought one of these 25yrs ago im sure i would still be running that one if i would have....
Xpac/Jusk/Grady.......The second pic shows the huge gap and the clearance from the nut to the RTDig, taken in April before I did any resto to that area. There is not much clearance from the nut/threaded rod and the linkage going to the bucket.
Yea i have seen that one its the one i play for those who dont know it .....Its like i said in the begining i named her this because it was so ugly it scared my grandkids kinda like the song calling ole marie (you ugly witch) its a pretty cool song and i hadnt heard it in years kinda forgot about it until i got this new station playing the oldies ....And now my grandkids are wanting on ole Marie just to blow the horns like most grandparents if it puts a smile and a memory out there for my grandkids it makes it all worth it....priceless as they say......
Xpac.....Cool stuff.....we learn more than just Case mechanical restoration tips on this site......now I learned a new song and the history of the Voodoo Queen.....good stuff. Yep.....I bet the grandkids love seeing that "lady with the orange wings" atop the hood, not to mention Old Abe under the roof. Just wait until you get the back-up bell to do a tune......now your talkin.
When we have daylight again tomorrow, I'll give it the tape measure treatment and see how it looks. 68case posted that pic with the big gap, and mine is nowhere that much room. I wonder if this is an adjustment of the loader reservoir tanks and tube length. I'll measure the rod overall length, the distance each end extends beyond the nut and the distance between the reservoir where the tube fits in. And pics of the measurements. As I'm a few hours west, and sleeping in, still hobbling around here, it will be after noon your time.... I don't have the RTD linkage on mine so the rod sticking out on that side isn't a problem until I get a set from Dale...
I don't know if anyone remembers this one by "Redbone" from 1972 but it's the one I remember most from the radio in those days although Dr. Hook did a cover of the original Marie Laveau on one of their albums. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIKCIwy6WUk
Grady.....that band definitely had the late 60s, early 70s look. Far-out, Mannnn.......Groovy!
Definitely another era. I'm dating myself. I remember those old Dr. Hook albums too. Wikipedia says that was the first recording of the song back in '71. They're all good and they all say pretty much the same thing - Don't mess with the Voodoo Queen so I hope xpack treats her better than old handsome Jack did or……!$@#%&!….another man done gone!
OT Years long gone... Ha ha, Grady and 68case, I think I remember you now, from Haight Ashbury in the summer of '68. I didn't recognize you at first because your hair was longer (and still there) . Our tractors were new , love was in the air, as long as you weren't a draftee, but I'm still not sure what that funny smell was wafting across the park? Yep, music was different, cars were cars and the only people who had 4x4s were geeks and the army. Redbone, who would have remembered except for these posts? Youth was wasted on the young, but I'd do it all again if I had the chance. Now, where's my camera for those pics?
Now im laughing my a** off you 2 actually pulled ol JUSK into the mix of crazyness something tells me his project post will be just as hilarious and crazy as this one has been hang on for the ride with JUSK it may just get very entertaining ..... 68/GRADY :woohoo:woohoo......YOU HAVE UNLEASHED THE BEAST.......:woohoo:woohoo
Jusk, That smell? That was just incense. Think nothing of it. xpack, don't blame us… You're the one that started with the voodoo stuff. Here's a pic of the stabilizer mount on my C for comparison. You can see how they are clearly skewed away from the tire. The steel is 1" instead of about 1/2" on the CK.
Loader Arm Rod and Reservoir Towers xpack, 'ol' is right and these days I'm feeling beyond my years... I had a quick look at my loader arms and the rod nuts. Pictures are not too good but they show the situation on mine. The right side (from the seat) has the washer in place and when the rod was put back after those obvious repairs before my time, the extra length was on that side. As I don't have RTD linkage, its never been an issue. The left side has the nut out at the end of the threads and appears staked on. There is no washer but looking through the greasy mess, I can see the bushing has moved out so will need to see what that is about. Both the towers on the loader reservoirs have been repaired and I have nothing to compare what it looked like new. I didn't measure rod length or distance between the towers as I didn't have a helper close by today.
grady (ok i will gladly take the blame) i never heard that one by redbone i didnt realize there was so much out there about the voodoo queen and its pretty cool how she has brought up a few good old memories for some.... I see on your (C) they welded gussets on them i dont think there is room to do this on the ck but they would be nice i may look at that when i fix that one of mine thats cracked
Xpac/Jusk/Grady.......A good day to get outside and shoot some pics.....the 60 degree temps were melting the snow pretty good. Got pics of both sides of Loader Arm Rod, with tape measure showing how far the threads are sticking out. Will also post the outriggers and how much "slop" I have in them. First the Loader Arm Rod ends: Left side as your sitting on Greased Lightnin: You can see that I tightened the nut after I painted the tractor, so there is a nice color code showing how much I tightened the nut. This was as far as I could move the nut, as it seemed to come to a hard stop against something (or the threads ran out). I have a strong 1 1/4" of thread sticking out that side. Right side: Here, you can see that the total length of thread, including the nut, is 1".....about 1/8" of thread past the nut. Here you can see that there is 3/4 inch gap from the end of the rod to the RTDig linkage: I still have about 1/4" gap on this side that should be closed up, but if I am out of threads, I will just have to flip a large washer in there, after following Xpacs directions on rod removal......Might be able to toss a washer on both sides.
jusk i know what you mean the brain says go the body says no.........Ya gotta wonder if when they reworked yours if they put that rod in backwards and like you said it wouldnt matter because of not having RTD ...I took a few today they aint great but should give something to kinda compare to.... This one is between the loader tanks This one is close to the total length of the rod itself Heres from the end of the rod RTD side
Xpac/Jusk/Grady.......Now the drum roll for the "Outrigger Slop Test". I just placed a step ladder on the side which the outrigger was leaning in, and then pushed the greasey sucker toward the tire and took a measurement from the step ladder. I only had two hands and could not hold the tape measure, hold the outrigger, and take a pic at the same time. The gap from stepladder to outrigger was just over 6 inches for the right side. On the left side, I had already added big washers, and the play was only about an inch. Here, you can see the dip in the outrigger where it has been pounded by the rear tires over the years. It now comes to within an inch of the tire: Grady......You were right.....these pics show that the outrigger's mounting bases are made at an angle taking them away from the rear tires: (I had not really noticed this until you mentioned it) Same angles on the other side also. (will show in next post)
68 if we both have the same amount of threads on the rods then you should have more threads left on the rtd side and there probably like you said messed up ....When i tightened mine i was able to put a pipe wrench on the rtd side and go to the other side to tighten it the nut on my rtd side is bottomed out....
(continued from last post) Outrigger on the left side also has the angle taking it away from the rear tire: I tell you....those large washers do help reduce the slop.....a cheap fix.
Xpac....I just went back a few pages to look at your pics.....you have just over 1 inch of threads sticking out on the right side (side you get on/off the tractor), and I came up with 1 1/4 inches. (From washer to tip of threaded rod was 2 inches on mine, and about 1 3/4 inches on yours.......both measurements show about 1/4 inch difference, so the nuts must be the same size). This 1/4 inch difference is about the extra you have on the threaded rod on the other side.......So, maybe we both have the knutz threaded as far as they will go, and the only way for me to close up that gap is by adding a washer or two. Man......we are getting way too technical here.....even NASA would be impressed with our stone-age engineering and measuring methods.
68 That outrigger is real close to that tire do you think the mount is bent and after seeing that crack on mine i wonder if yours has something like that going on ????
Here the backhoe before the pressure wash
I gotta agree with Grady.......we were all innocent, strictly thinking about mechanical issues, having some boring posts, and then all of a sudden Xpac throws the Voodoo Queen into the mix.......and she cast some crazy spells on all of us......and things are getting pretty wild.......60s/70s music, Voodoo spells, poor Ole Abe forced to drink and smoke and pop pills, incense in the air........and Im thinking of growing those megga sideburns again. Looking for my Johnny Cash 45s to help me take control of the situation.......I hear the train a commin, commin roun tha bend, and I aint seen tha sunshine since, I dont know when.......
xpack, That's what I was thinking - if '68 loosened up on the right could the left go more or would that just move the gap to the right? Hey, no blame required. I love the name of your machine and you're right about it bringing back some great memories. I can't believe you never heard that one by Redbone. It was #81 on the top 100 of 1972 http://www.bobborst.com/popculture/top-100-songs-of-the-year/?year=1972 A gusset is probably a good idea for reinforcing a weld on a stabilizer mount. There's a lot of stress there - even if you aren't using them for an emergency brake when freewheeling down a steep incline. On the CK you see a slight angle, on the C, you can see the clear angle, but on the K they truncated the corner of the machine and welded them on straight so they are even more angled than the C. It's an evolution toward an angled stabilizer. The only downside I can see is that the more they angle toward the rear, the easier it becomes to hit them with the hoe or damage them with rocks while digging and the closer they are to the front, the more interference from tires and chains, etc. '68, those factory loops of your look a lot more beefy than mine. Maybe it's just the camera angle.
Here it is after the pressure washing moving it to the shop lots of fog today and a muddy mess.....
Marie, Marie Leveau - she'll put a spell on you.
OK, '68, I'm conceding the slop contest to you, but I get sloppy seconds :falldownlaugh Ha Ha I hope new pins and bushings are enough and we don't have to get into reworking the stabilizer arm. Xpack, those pics didn't post.
After pressure wash and in the shop
You know, '68 is right, we were keeping it all business. Torque ratios, stabilizer angles, etc. and then xpack goes all Kardashian on us with the alleged cross species exploits of Marie and Abe. Hey, it's his thread and I'm glad he's keeping it interesting but don't blame us for wanting to get in on the fun. I know I can use a little levity after a day in the grease, grime and diesel so keep it coming.
xpack, that's looking good. Some paint, a couple hoses, maybe decals and it will like new. I'm coveting the extend-a-hoe and wondering if Dale has the dipper part sitting under his bench. Just when I thought I'd be happy with a running tractor, I see something else that I can wish for. Are you planning on rebuilding the stabilizers this time or just cleaning them up? Mine are about like yours, grady's and 68case's with a lot of wear. I have seen weld-in bushings for the backhoe frame which would eliminate line boring or major machining. I think the call out for longer pins. The stabilizer arms could go to the machine shop for weld up and boring, although the costs might exceed the benefits. Thanks for the posts and pics.
68/grady/jusk 68 Funny :falldownlaugh:falldownlaugh she must be working her magic,as long as she dont teach that voodoo to my wife :badidea .......Hmmm maybe i should of named her HOT ROD LINCOLN.........hahaha
I am glad your all along for the ride and you guys are great!!!! it is entertaining im glad it aint all about the nuts and bolts no doubt it would be a bore and it does keep it interesting along with getting a whole lot of knowledge but i still think you guys pulled jusk in to the crazyness :thumbsup:thumbsup......ok maybe i had a little influence :angel:falldownlaugh:falldownlaugh
Jusk, I wouldn't bother line boring a stabilizer. Hell, they don't even line bore the main boom pivot if that is worn beyond repair. The fix for that is to weld some new bushings on each side of the boom and use a longer pin. I think we can just weld in some new bushings if the damage has got into the arms themselves. No need even for a longer pin on them. Mine have been sloppy for 30 years. Unless you plan on working it every day - in which case you are going to run into bigger issues because the machine is old like us - it's no big deal. How much extra reach does the extend-a hoe add? I'm guessing around 2 feet?
jusk im going to make a good effort at rebuilding the stabilizers I called Dale last week and have 1 replacement bushing on the way just so i can figure out what i need to do Dale told me he has different thicknesses of bushings so when i know what i need exactly im hoping he will have what i need...If not i happen to know 2 machinist i may get one of them to build the bushings i need. I am not looking to get this back to original just tighten it up a whole lot i will post what i have to do with this as well no doubt this one is sloppy but 68 may walk away with the crown for this one he posted some good shots of his earlier... Those weld ins you talked about may be where i end up going with this if the castings are egg shaped i will most likely throw some weld in there and ream it out to get them close enough for bushings....
grady i agree no more than i work this whatever i do to fix will last longer than me Yea its about 2 ft but i think Dale said they had them back then that would extend up to 4ft ...The biggest thing i use the extendahoe for is when i have dug all the way around a tree the extendahoe will usually put them where you want them as soon as i get them going with the extendahoe i follow up by pushing them down with the boom it works great for this....
Grady, I've seen the weld on bushings as field repairs around here. Rather than a complete tear down, they look like the answer if you need them, As you say, they have been worn for most of the machines working life, so likely no big deal for what any of us will need. I'm not sure what the extend-a-hoe adds for reach but can see it would be useful for placing stuff and smoothing out areas with a clean up bucket or in conjunction with a thumb. I have seen the mechanical one on a CK and pictures of the hydraulic model like xpacks but not in person. Like the 4-in-1 or Drott clamshell buckets for these old girls, they are rare this far west and likely worked to death long ago.
68 these aint the greatest pics it was late and i was soaked from the pressure washer/mud/and rain but heres a couple shots measuring clearance between the tires and stabilizers i will get better ones when i get her done.....
Grady.......The "loops" welded on the backhoe for the chains to hold up the stabilizers.....well, could be that someone welded slightly larger dia. loops on years ago after the factory ones broke......and one of these larger ones are broken also. Surely operator error......using the emergency brakes when the chains are attached. I would be tempted to make a chain with a weak link so the link would snap before the loops do.
Grady.......So, I win, and you get sloppy seconds......Ha haa.....Hey, you had me sweating bullets :guns cause I thought you were gonna win the Slop Contest, and I would have to buy you one of those fancy Voodoo Queen hood ornaments. Hey, do your stabilizers have those dents from hitting the tire over they years? Yea, now we gotta start budgeting for new pins/bushings and what-not to get the backhoes working tight again. Work, work, work, work.........."Mucho trabajho, poco dinero!"
Xpac......Man, your hauling azzzz with your project! I feel like a broken down Edsel on the Indy 500 track and your are the famous Richard Petty smoking around the track, doing loops around me. Man, its looking great! I was going to ask why you didnt put the fenders on, but then I remembered that you still need to put on the ROPS you got from Dale......and the ROPS go before the fenders. Im thinking you need to take a brake.......that will give you time to jack up your shop and lay a couple layers of block so you then have a 10 foot door. Ha ha....
That's why I have such a small chain holding my boom up. I've snapped it a couple times when I engage the valve body before I engage my brain.
You're lucky it's your lower stabilizer arm and not the cylinder itself that's all dented or worn. The cylinder wouldn't like that at all. My front tires have worn through the steering cylinders on both sides. I'm a moron for not fixing it before it wore through.
I like to use the ole CK for insurance. I can usually drop a tree where I want it but sometimes it is close to a house or something and I just don't want to take that chance. I've pushed some pretty big ones over. I'd rather have someone else cutting so there's no pause to jump back on the machine and start pushing but if I'm alone I just give it a little pressure before I start cutting so it knows which way to go. You can see I have full range of boom and dipper cylinders as well as bucket curl so that baby doesn't stand a chance. I'm also high enough up so she isn't coming over backwards on me - I hope.
Here's one of plain Jane - no glossy two tone paint job, no bed liner, no horns or hood ornaments, no sight glass and no brakes - doing some demo next to a couple fallen heroes. You can see the small chain in the back that holds up the boom when I'm not using it and a smoldering fire in the right rear that's about to be fed some very dry pine boards The fire pic was taken in the same spot but on a different day. No snow.
grady yea when there close to a building i have someone cut them to get them to go where we want them with the help of marie after there down then i dig the stump.When we bought this place it was like they cleared out just enough for the house and at last count we took out about 300 of different sizes from huge to babies just to make a yard and put up some barns.......and we had a few bombfires in the process........ Cool seeing plain jane doing her thing.............What can i say about your list but i think you forgot to list a few things maybe in another post hahaha.......
Fixer Upper xpack, 68case, With some time on my hands, I have been searching Craigs list for all the things I don't need and came across this. I'm wondering if you would have time this weekend to fix this up for me, to look like yours? I see that they did have ROPS and attached it to the horns welded onto the sides of the loader frames. Unfortunately, it has the broken and repaired loader arm like mine.
heck yea jusk bring it on we will get her done i still have all the tools spread out to tackle that one .... I havent seen one like that with that type of mounts one of my neighbors who recently bought his 580b and it had brackets off the side of the towers that had a hyd cylinder on each side and a separate set of valves on it that controlled these cylinders it was for a belly blade that he didnt get with it we took all of that off his as he didnt need it he also got a thing for the rear end to turn it into a 3 point i think they called that a mod or something like that there must be a use for something like that but when you have a backhoe it would be a pain to change to that and the way these get around without the backhoe for counterweight i think it would be tough....
heres the slop in the right side from the seat i drew a white line on the floor then pushed it away from that and this side is the side with the weld cracked heres with it pushed away from line heres the cracked weld heres the left side
right side bushing and pin with the pin in the bushing it wore pretty bad the left side is wore but no where as bad as this side i will have to figure out what i need for sure but it looks like i might be able to use stock bushings with some welding and reaming i will get the old beat out and figure from there...
Grady........I think the Voodoo Queen already has been making a visit up your way........when I look at those flames, I see a Voodoo Queen standing there playing a guitar, or maybe a fiddle. Reminds me of the classic "Devil went down to Georgia", and thats the devil playing his fiddle up on that stump.
heres a old battle scar from a couple of years ago while putting down some trees i kept hearing a screeching noise and when i pulled up to the barn i checked it out and the boom had cracked on 3 sides so i grooved the cracks and welded them back up and ground down then put these plates on all 4 sides just one more thing i like about these old girls when they do things like this you weld them up and keep on going i was concerned about this but have keep a eye on it and it seems to be holding just fine....
Xpac.......I have never beat out bushings like this. What is the best way? Do you find a socket that fits right over the bushing and then just start banging on it, with room for it to move downward as it begins to move? Or can you set up a vice and maybe use a socket to push it out? Necessary to heat first? Im trying to figure out if this is something I can tackle on my outriggers.
Jusk......that old loader has a ton of great parts on it....I wouldnt mind having it laying around for parts.....or, the bucket might be in better shape than the one I have now. Find another one, and they would make a nice pair of book ends.
A common way to remove bushings like that one is to run a couple of beads of weld inside to shrink the bushing and they almost fall out. Almost is relative but after that a BFH will do the trick. have a 50T press but getting big pieces to it isn't always easy and when you put the coal to it, sometimes it becomes a but risky. When they did my boom bushings at the Vocational school, they had dismantled everything and put it into a very big press. The shouldered bushings came out like a shot out of the Iowa. They watched from the other side of the shop...
Grady....Well, the cylinders had been rubbing some, and the one we rebuilt last summer was a bit untrue, and we tried rebuilding it anyway. Not yet sure how well that is gonna work. The other side was rubbing also, and I still need to try to rebuild it as it leaks pretty bad. I hope I can avoid the $800 each price for new ones.
This is kinda new territory for me to but i did beat one out of the bracket on the right side with a bar and a big hammer but i tried a couple on the left side brackets and im sure they will need heat im thinking it was fliptop on here that said he used a rosebud to get it hot and drive them out i will let you know what i end up doing i dont have a press but it would be handy for the arm bushings i think.....
Jusk......good info. Thanks. Maybe that big fireball explosion over Russia last year was your bushing upon re-entry, compliments of the Vocational school. Ha ha...
jusk are they welding a complete circle or just half circle on the inside of the bushing this sounds interesting i may have to try it....
Hey xpack, just, and 68. I used heat to get the pins to finally push out. I actually used a small tip on the Oxy acetylene and burned the bushings out of the backhoe frame and stabilizer arms. With the flame pushing straight into the side of the bushing you can burn right through it without harming the frame or the arms. If that makes you nervous, run the beads of weld and hammer them out. That is really a great idea. I am comfortable with the torches, that is why I chose that method.
fliptop were you able to replace yours with stock ones and was your arms eggshaped if so did you just weld and ream them thanks for the tips good stuff.....
YOU GUYS are a TRIP!!! to say the least..
What ever is easiest for the location would work. The idea is to run it as hot as you can and put in a few heavy passes. The idea is not to make it look pretty but to get the bushing hot as possible and get a good amount of weld on the I.D. of the bushing. What happens is the bushing gets hot and tries to expand but can not as it is in side the boom or frame. This causes the metal to move in other directions. Then when it cools down it will shrink and get loose in the frame and the heavy mass of the weld will be pulling on the I.D. to make it even looser. Getting weld the full length of the bushing will make sure the shrinkage is not just at one end of the bushing. Now if you have an application with brass bushings you can use basically the same method but in place of welding on the bushing use a cutting torch to melt part way through the bushing in a couple lines the length of the bushing, about half the thickness of the bushing works fine. Then let it cool down some and it should tap out pretty easy. If not make a couple more grooves and let it cool again.
kshansen i will give it a shot sounds like it works pretty good thanks for breaking it down .......
Xpack, I reused my pins and used all stock bushings. The loader frame wasn't an issue, but you are absolutely correct about the egg shaped holes in the arms. I did just like you said and used weld to fill the area and then smacked the bushings in. After the bushings were in I actually welded the very worst one in place. I figure it will never have to be done again, and if it does I will know to burn it out and then have it filled and bored for a correct bushing.
jusk,fliptop,kshansen thanks for all the advice on these bushings i managed to get them out by the use of the torch,welder and beating them out.Some came right out and i got to try that welding tip you had told me about and it worked pretty slick thanks for the tip.I had never heard of that before and it worked good.... fliptop thanks for the idea on the exhaust pipe i went and got it today they didnt have stainless where i went so i will just throw some paint on them and i found out i can use stock bushings in mine to, but i will need to weld up the arms some no big deal though and like you said if i need to weld one or 2 of them in im not worried about that, im sure after this is done they will outlast me for what i do and like you did i am planning on reusing my pins . I ordered all the bushings from Dale at tractorstuff and i also got flat washers coming for the pins so i can tighten up the endplay on the arm and cylinder pins...thanks
heres one of the bushings i welded like jusk,kshansen suggested i had tried to beat it out prior to welding and it wouldnt budge but after welding and cooling down i still had to hit pretty hard but it did free it up maybe more weld would of freed it up more ????
Here is whats inside each arm the short pipe in the middle is what fliptop was talking about using a piece of exhaust pipe to replace it
xpack, Good job. Sometimes a couple of stringers through the bushing are required but after a couple of removals you will be the expert. I have done a bunch on my JD crawler and learned the hard way about beating on some stuff. I have a number of drifts made from shafting and machined with a shoulder to fit the various bushings. These are useful for installing the replacements either with the bfh or a press if you can get the piece to it. I always wanted to find a portapower and frame that would let you push out old bushings and install new ones. You're doing the Pathfinding on this project that will help the rest of us CK owners from straying too far.
this pin for the swing cylinder was coming out the bottom so i tore it down and it had wore a groove in the bolt allowing it to drop, I put in a new bolt
I wondered if a couple passes would of been better sounds like it would be,,,I have been thinking about making up a little something to drive the new ones in can you post a pic of the drift with the shoulder if it aint a pita im thinking about just a old piece of round stock or something along that lines.....Im sure that lots of stuff covered in this thread is childs play for a lot but for guys like me who are trying to figure it out and with the help of everyone on this site im sure it will help others down the road you will be cutting the path on the engine and im sure there will be a lot of great info about that as well.And with everything 68 has already posted and with everything else everyone has posted in the past there is a lot of great stuff out there.... There are some excellent post by a guy named Phil and he hasnt been on here in a long time unfortunately, i would of liked to talked to him he seemed to be very knowledgeable and seemed to want to help guys like myself he came across as a friendly and just a helpfull guy ......
xpack, I'll dig one of them out later this afternoon. Nothing fancy. All they are is a length of shaft material, chucked in the lathe and turned to slightly less than the bushings OD. Then a shoulder is cut on the end to fit just under the ID. Another one I have somewhere has a collar welded on it as a stop from driving but its of a softer material. In a pinch, where I didn't have the right size, I have used an impact socket to drive the bushing.
got 1/2 of the hoe painted jusk 6 cans used for this much 68 if you think the loader was a pain wait till you get here whole lot of nooks and crannies pressure was the crap out then do it again i spent about 4-5 hrs on pressure washing alone View attachment 149501
ok i get what your talking about you dont have to post a pic if they are buried,I did the socket deal in the past to but i would rather have something a little easier to grip.I am also thinking im going to put the new bushings in the freezer for 24hrs before i install them...
xpack, Here are a couple of pics of some that I quickly grabbed from the shed. The larger ones are equipment pins with bushings welded. Welds are on the one end of the bushing only. Ugly but they work. The other ones are smaller and for different use but the same idea. They are for setting bronze bushings, turned out of stock and hardened the old fashioned way. I have some fancier ones somewhere but wanted to get these out today with the time difference between us. They will give you the general idea for your specific use. Shorter ones work well in a press.
Thankyou jusk im going to try to fab up one like those i will see what i have laying around ......
holy crap, and i am worried about a lousy head gasket .. YOU will have a brand new tractor when your done. very nice
diver yea it has to be a labor of love or just plain crazy to do this much i will let you know which one it is if i survive it to the end hahaha
Ha Ha, diver, we're letting xpack show the way. Kinda like breaking trail on snow shoes. What the first guy does, makes it a piece of cake for the rest of us. xpack, the freezer or dry ice trick works pretty well. In a past life, I had a few occasions to change bearings on large data storage devices that used spinning ceramic drums and multiple heads to magnetic storage and retrieval of data. The trick was to get the one part shrunk using dry ice, so it would drop into place and heat the other piece on a specialty 'hot plate' to expand it enough to slip it over the drum shaft. As a team of three, we got pretty good at it but I'm not sure what would have happened if we screwed it up. Its not like we had a spare or anything and were running on the duplicate copy while this one was down. Those systems were designed for use in defense installations and found their way into other applications in early computer types. Later, a line up of these puppies would be replaced by a rack of memory boards, and today, your smart phone would have more storage... Now, back to pins and bushings...
Heck jusk with that kinda background this is probably a cakewalk how about you just swing by michigan with that c/l loader and we can fix that up for you while we dry ice my bushings i will get the BFH ready hahahaha
Xpack, I didn't say I was any good at it... If that loader was a bit closer and the loader arm wasn't broken, I might have consider a road trip. As it is, the ones I see at the wreckers are all in your neighbourhood anyway, so I might drop in and drink your beer and watch you work. I'm not getting anything done here anyway... This is always a learning experience and even for those who know what they are doing, unlike me, there is considerable satisfaction of fixing the right way and learning something as you go.
Haha me either ......hopefully i will be done with this by the time you get here and we can both drink beer .....after going threw this there is something to be said for the ones who have already been there and done that i know the day i finally got to hear this one fire back up and then put it in gear and it actually worked it was a great day and made me feel like it was worth it...Had it of not moved at that point i would of had to dig out the explosives haha
welded up crack another section painted jusk 6 cans on this section 12 total so far
nice, you do good work
thanks diver it wont take long until it finds its first mudhole ...Did you find the info you were looking for on your engine hopefully you will get it figured out and the fix will be cheap....
well i thinking of flushing the system add a ceramic sealer and trying that .. I think with info ive heard, 1- cracked bock or liner 2- head gasket 3- valve or other head problem... Right now i cant do a thing till weather gets warm..lol after 30 years in FL my blood is to thin for these NH winters.. Been up for 4 years and still hate the cold lol
i hope you can save it i know they are nice to have when you need them, we have been fortunate in michigan this winter it has been pretty mild but still cold at times, I am ready to see it end ....keep us posted when you do something with yours....i have heard of people using something like a glass sealer in car engines is the ceramic sealer the same thing ????
yes about the same thing.. http://www.irontite.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1 ,,,I still have a 4-6 weeks to dwell on it lol thanks diver
Xpac......Wow.....that worn bolt was a pretty easy fix. (Did not know all these posts were here.....am not getting my email alerts).
Xpac........(attachment didnt work).....Yea, I know the backhoe is gonna take some time.....but mine is pretty rusty and ugly, and needs the make-over.
Xpac.....Im beginning to like your former idea......dipping in paint.......And I can picture just sitting in the backhoe seat with a cold brewskie, and just lowering the entire backhoe arm right into a pool of yeller paint. Raise her up, let dry in the hot sun for a few hours, and then dip again. 6 beers later, shes all done. Yeller hoses are no big deal.
oops sorry
Im with you on that, this is a big pain but i cant stop now the end is in sight,Im kinda at a stand still right now waiting for some more paint and the bushings for the stabilizers and the beer is in the fridge so i can rotate from full to empty all day long when this is done then maybe it will thin the blood enough to begin to feel that numb fingertip from the spray paint hahaha
68 did you happen catch post# 978 it shows whats in the stabilizers for bushings and a spacer pipe i remember you said you were going to do yours one day....
hey diver theres a guy on here named juskatla who is going to be getting into his engine you could watch his post as he gets going it might give you some idea as to whats giong on with yours.Here is the link to his thread HeavyEquipmentForums
xpac.....yep, I saw the post.....great pics and info., and I hope I am up to the challenge......I wish all the repairs were just a matter of taking out the old worn bolt and installing a new one.....ha ha.
68 i gotta believe this is way easier than what you went threw with the front end on yours after reading your thread about that i hope i dont have to get into that myself but if i do you can bet i will get some good pointers from your thread.I am waiting for the bushings but when they get here i am planning doing what fliptop did with his and that is to weld up the egg shaped hole in the arms and fit the bushings the best i can and if need be i will weld in whatever bushing i need to...Not that it is necessary but i wonder why they didnt put in grease zerts for these bushings must be they figured it wasnt worth it as it must take a long time to wear them out..........
Xpac......think it would be worth it to drill a hole, tap, and put grease fittings in? Hope your right about repairing the outriggers.....maybe mine will just fall out by themselves.
68, the way these stabilizer arms are built they wouldn't do well with grease fittings for the pins and bushings. They are hollow from the top to the bottom. When I took out my bushings and the spacer I noticed that hollow area was packed full of 48 years worth of dirt and mud. I would think grease anywhere in that area would only hold that dirt in the bushing and wear the pin and bushing more quickly. Tight clearances with limited up and down movement works fine and they lasted a long time really. The spacer in the middle of that arm appears to me to be a feature to stop that dirt from entering the actual bushings in the arm.
Yea i thinking the same as fliptop they lasted this long so no more that i use this it will outlast me maybe thats why no grease there because it holds the dirt.....
heres a shot of the gap between new bushing and arm itself here is the arm welded up and ground down heres the bushing installed after welding up the arm i decided to groove the arms and weld in all the bushings here it is after weld and after cleanup
waiting for paint to dry got more paint on the backhoe
Xpac......thats impressive work on redoing those bushings. I hope that I can do something half as good when I tackle it. Hey, were you gonna add any washers or do anything to tighten up the bucket? Mine has alot of slop in it, but I havent decided if it can get by with just a few more washers, or what. As you and Grady know, I have been fighting my onry 69 Chevy C10 this week, which has been sent a major curse by that Voodoo Queen atop Xpac's 580CK. Please get on your knees for me, and ask the orange-winged Voodoo Queen to pull the pins out. :notworthy
Thanks to the heads up of others these went pretty smooth i was thinking that arm with the 6 inches of play would of been a lot worse.Im sure yours will come out just as good.I honestly cant remember how loose my bucket is but i dont think its real bad if it is i will play with it this summer and the backhoe is almost done so i will dig out the big chain and have her pull the pins hahahaha
backhoe done
cab in the shop
Xpac......Tractor and backhoe are looking great! Now you got the ROPS in the shop......all those nice flat surfaces makes a good time to try the brush and roller paint technique.....save the wear and tear on the tip of your finger on those spray cans. What are you gonna put in that doughnut ring thing on the top of the ROPS? Maybe flip it sideways and you have your beer holder. :drinkup
68 heck of a idea and run a hose down for the operator ......I think i will end upwith flasher light s in them and 2 work lights out the front and 2 on the rear.....i cant feel the finger tip now anyway so for this last part i will just finish it with rattle cans maybe the feeling will be back by summer haha
Xpac.....I guess the flasher lights would be safer than a mini-keg of beer, as those are some pretty big cup holders. Besides, you might get a little squirelly-headed and reach for that hydraulic level hose by mistake, thinking you are drawing on some more beer, and end up with a belly full of hydrualic fluid. Haaaa haaa
Im squirelly headed enough without the beer hahaha, and if i ended up with a belly full of hydraulic oil i would have to buy some depends and change the name to (GREASED LIGHTNING THE 2ND) hahahaha
Thats a Big 10-4 from my Backdoor....... :drinkup
xpack, Is that rig ready to get dirty yet? We've seen her all dressed up. We want to see her getting down and dirty now. :drinkup
Grady shes close i just need to do some work on the rops and paint it then get it mounted .....I need to straighten some metal, mount and wire some lights ,and get the fenders cleaned up and painted and mounted to the rops then i can install it..Then shes ready to go by the way those hooks i put on the ends of the loader bucket that you suggested already came in handy i used them the other day to put the rops in the shop i can see where they will be real handy ....Thanks for the suggestion.... As soon as i get her done and put her to work i will get some pics and post them it wont take long to find the first mudhole ....
And we want to see the Voodoo Queen pop a wheelie.:drinkup
Heck yea man wheelies might as well get a few burnouts and some doughnuts in there and for the grand finale i can try jumping 14 buses now i need to engineer a strap to hold the beer down ....... wait a minute i better put in a strap to hold me down as it will take a few beers before a jump like that:drinkup:drinkup.....If it was 13 buses maybe go sober.....
Shoot, I like the idea........jumping those 14 buses is doable........and Evil Kanievel would do it in a heart-beat. Getty Up, Hi Ho Silver, AWAY!!!!!! :slomo
Finally got the fenders and rops painted Now gotta run some new wiring for the lights and mount lights and windshield....Still gotta make the (MARIE LAVEAU) sign for the front of rops ..... Then wait for the weather to cooperate and mount it to the voodoo queen.....
Xpac......Thats interesting. I see another Case design change from 68 to 70.....they used larger fender bases on yours, and your fenders are wider at the bottom. Here are the small ones on my 68: Your getting closer and closer to the end of this project......impressive work you have been doing. :usa :thumbsup
Im not sure what your seeing on the base i think its just the angle of the pics they look the same to me but im half blind .........and your right the end is in sight and that is a good feeling i can only hope this will help others down the road i know a lot of this is simple stuff but with everyone jumping in theres some good stuff here for these old girls......
Simple stuff? Hey, remember that both of us were confused when putting the fenders back on......it just didnt look right, like right was left and left was right, when I put the freshly painted fenders on. (Thats why taking pics is so important as you tear something apart). Xpac......I swear, it looks like your fender bases are about 3-4 inches taller than mine, and my bases are a bit fatter on the bottom and get skinner as you go upward........while yours appear to be one thickness from bottom to top. (Unless maybe that yellow square thing hanging with the fenders is something else?)
I will throw a tape on the base tomorrow ,,,hahaha those R/L/L/R fenders your right they can be more confusing that one would think..... and your right you just cant take enough pics to get things back together the way it came apart......
Hey Xpac.......I think it would be great to post those pics your grandkids did of your CK "Voodoo Queen" digging at the Grand Canyon, popping wheelies, and jumping over the buses with Evil Kanievel......they were fantastic, and I think the guys at this site would get some big laughs from them.
From the fender pics, it looks like xpack's bolt on from the opposite side - like from the cab side instead of the wheel side. Maybe it's just the angle or something. Mine are like '68's. They bolt on from the wheel side. It seems smarter to bolt on from the cab side because that ledge where the bolts go always fills up with mud and stays wet - good for rust but bad for the metal.
Heck there is a difference in the fenders,I would of never known mine do mount on the inside like grady said and after looking at them closer it does look like 68 said mine appear taller ???? heres some measurements of my base.
heres the rops with the lights installed here it is with the windshield and front lights now its down to watching paint dry and getting a decent day outside might have to bust out the carharts.....
Xpac.......Wow, your ROPS is looking excellent! Where in the world did you find those orange plastic lights, or did you take the time to paint them? Keeping that orange/yeller color theme everywhere looks great. The front glass looks so good, you can tell there is any glass there. I will give my fender base a measure next time I have the tarps off, which will be real soon, as I have a ton of brush to move again. Your fenders are definately different, at least at the bases. Pretty cold here, so I bet you are a good 25 degrees colder up in the Mitten state.
right now its 15 in lakes region NH...I want to move back to fl sooooo bad lol
there calling for 14* daytime 4* nightime saturday, aboutt22* right now cold enough to freeze skin to bolts installing a rops outside ....Yea i just painted the housings for the lights like you said why not finish with the orange and yellow.....diver funny you mention florida my neighbors are down there right now basking in the sun and they sent us a fresh box of florida oranges they are delicious every slice makes you think of all that warm weather they are enjoying ... hahaha ...I tried to convince him to trade me projects he could stay here and rebuild this tractor and i would go to florida for him but you see who lost the florida trip......heres to you neighbor :waving:waving Hey 68 all that snow gone there ????? start that brush fire and send the heat here hahaha
I hate to rub it in - not really hate, maybe like - but it's good to get away from the cold once in a while. xpack, I got some of those Florida oranges, too, but mine are still attached. I hear the forecast is for 7 below this weekend in NH but mid 70's here tomorrow. Sorry diver but someone had to stay in NH. I did meet a scuba diver from NH here the other day. Small world, huh?. That sign is a picture of me swimming.
Xpac....yep, a bit warmer here in Va......28 high and 13 low, but that wind chill is kicking in. Man, Grady's fresh oranges is making my mouth water.
Ok grady have a cold beer ready so we can have one or a few when i get there :beerchug :falldownlaugh ......................................VOODOO QUEEN FOR SALE NEEDS ROPS INSTALLED..................................:falldownlaugh
:drinkup Xpack, There's plenty of beer. Bring some good tequila for the fresh OJ. This is vacation after all. :drinkup
Better be careful when joking about selling the Voodoo Queen. She's libel to mess you up. No telling how nasty things could get……….
Ya xpack, you could wake up and have my old machine sitting in your shop, and Marie could be here... Then you could start all over again, except mine won't start... Looking good on the ROPS and fenders. You must be happy to be at that end of the journey. If it will stop raining here, I might get at it tomorrow and see if the loader shaft will come out. Form your pictures, I see that you have snow on the ground. We are having seasonable rain and wish we could have had some last summer when we got none. My spring bulbs are about to get blooming back at the house and the lawn is looking like it wants a mowing. Spring can't be far off here on the 'Wet' coast.
xpack, Is that a Clayton wood furnace in your shop?
Grady your right i dont need no bad voodoo stuff from the voodoo queen i guess i will keep her, but man at least pour one down for me in that Florida sunshine :drinkup Yea its a clayton and it heats the shop real good it has a motor driven draft that i have wired to a wall thermostat.I used to heat the house with it but i put in one of those outdoor wood central boilers to heat the house and water and im going to hook the boiler up to heat the new shop when i get to it.... Hope you are enjoying it down there looks like a good time......
Jusk i appreciate the offer the only problem is i think the first hole im gonna dig with Marie is right in front of the shop so i can bury all the tools just so im not tempted to do this again haha I am very glad to be at the end of this project but like with all these old girls there will be other issues with it but im hoping its small stuff.The big payoff will come when i can do as grady says take her out and have her getting down and dirty thats the real satisfaction.... Hopefully you get that stubborn shaft out i know stuff like that can test your patience but it sounds like your the type who thinks it out and it will happen ..... Spring (cant wait) do you get any good mushrooms in that wet area i love to hunt/eat them, around here it is hit and miss depending on the weather and rain i have seen a few years where they get huge and plentiful....
Ok 68 says post them sooooooo Here we go again Seems Marie and abe are up to their shenanigans again they apparently aren't willing to wait to get out there so they went and did there thing without me Im telling ya me and that chrome bird are gonna talk hahahahah They dug a little hole And obviously found a burnout pit Hey pumpguy i may need to adjust my pump lots of black smoke :beatsme and for the grand finale they hooked up with evel I ended up with a empty tank of fuel and one bald tire ......hahahaha .......
Ha ha, great pictures... xpack, I hear you on getting Marie out there and into the dirt. I am missing mine as the jobs and projects are piling up. I recently decided to break down and have the local on-island excavator come over and catch me up on last years work. I have done this in the past and because its all boulders, rock and blast rock with a thimble of dirt, the excavator is the right machine for some work. I'd rather he wear his out, over using mine for that tough stuff. With your Marie, you will have some things to as they come up but are over the real big ones. She will work and play much better with her new paint job and last many more years. Where we are on this small island, there are some edible mushrooms and a bunch that are not. I leave them to the experts to decide. A neighbour here is ex Yukon Parks and an expert on the subject. The deer around here are picky and they won't touch some of them, so we know those are the ones to stay away from. When I lived in northern BC, there was an annual commercial mushroom picking season. Some of the fellows we worked with would book their vacations and go picking for a few weeks. In those days, their return from selling them was more than their regular wages and then some. I think the market was Japan, but maybe elsewhere too. Its finally quit pouring, so will be heading out to see if I can make some progress on that shaft. I'm hoping its not shouldered or seriously bent but we will find out either way.
jusk i dont blame you let someone else wear out their equipment.I have always tried to do as much as i can but there is a time to stand down and just take the hit and pay somebody else for the headaches.I am afraid im facing that right now with the new shop 48' x 36' i need to pour the floor this summer but for the first time i realize im not a spring chicken no more so it just makes since to grab a 12 pack and watch someone else do it for me i just struggle with the brain saying do it yourself but the body saying now way man these days the body wins a lot.....
xpack, When I built my shop, I did most of it but when it came to the concrete floor pour and finish, I had the pros take care of it. 2 full trucks, barged over and placed. The crew left with the last truck after 5 hours and one stayed to power trowel. If I was going to do it, I'd still be mixing... Same for drywall hanging. They make people for that, and its not me.... You will have a nice sized shop in the new one and room for more projects... On the hired equipment issue, I am at the stage that I want the end result, not the fun of doing it. There are lots of little jobs that my tractor will help me with, just not a few of these. Backhoes excel at some types of work, but road construction, large excavations, knocking down large fir trees and pulling stumps is almost the exculsive domain of excavators in this part of the world.
I did the floor in my current shop with some younger guys helping with the heavy stuff and it definitely let me know that was probably my last cement floor whether i liked it or not.... Your absolutely right this new shop will be me drinking beer and watching it being done and i will finish everything else...... The largest piece of a equipment i played with was a 195? i think it was a northwest 25 dragline crane i had bought years ago to dig a pond on property i had....And it was a challenge to run until you figured it out ..In fact that was the first time i had heard of a pony motor and when the previous owner handed me a pull rope and said this is how you start it i thought he was joking but he wasnt..Looking back on that its pretty impressive how someone came up with that no battery needed just 2 motors to maintain....anyway there i go bla,bla,bla
xpack, I'd suggest using that pex tubing in your concrete slab. You can't beat that radiant heat. I have a couple of those clayton wood furnaces. One takes a 36" stick and the other one takes a 24". I got 2 guys to help me pour a slab at my place one hot summer day long ago. 53 yards of concrete later, the beer came out.
Grady i thought about that pex in the floor the only problem is i only want to heat the shop area when im out there and theres about a 12' x 48' area im going to section off, this area im going to keep at about 50* all winter unless im out there then i will crank it up.I hear that pex is the way to go if you keep the heat the same all winter but i also hear it takes a while to come up to temp say from 10* to 70*.... yea that cement work aint for the weak and like you said the hot summer makes it worse ,the best part of that is when your done and the beer goes in..... That clayton of mine takes the 24" i ended up welding legs on the bottom just so i dont have to bend over as far to clean it out and feed it and im glad i did it worked out pretty cool,These are built tough for sure and i like how it vents out the top not out the back ......does yours have the autodraft or do you have to set the draft in the front heres a pic of mine you can see the little motor it opens and closes a little butterfly damper for draft controlled by wall thermostat makes it kinda nice....
xpack, In my climate, heated floors are almost not necessary but the foam and vapour barrier under the concrete are a must. We did 3" and the pex pipe but have not needed to actually heat it yet. There are factors that you would want to consider with a heated floor and if you are doing a properly insulated floor, other heating sources would be adequate. If the pipe is placed at the bottom of the concrete, it takes longer to heat up but the residual heat lasts longer too. The higher into the concrete the pipe is, the faster the response so if you wanted just to fire it up for a day, half way up would be good. An additional loop off your outdoor boiler could do it for you. I suggest placing the pipe regardless of your plans as its pretty difficult to retrofit. I am currently using a 3kw electric construction heater when its really cold but most days when temps are above freezing, I don't heat at all. The Hi Bay lights gibe off enough and keeps me comfortable. Your winters may be somewhat different than ours. Wood heat is nice but my back tells me that I don't want to go there. We have lots of wood on the beach that could be dragged up for the woodshed but its a lot of work too. I love wood heat, just not the work involved.
xpack, I raised my furnace up with cement blocks but they take up more floor space. I like the legs. I have the motorized damper but I'm just running it manually now. I have the stainless steel loop in the firebox for heating water and was thinking of adding another loop on the other side of the firebox as well for twice the volume of hot water. There is a time lag with radiant but there are potential benefits. You can use the floor as a heat dump for any excess from your outdoor boiler. You still have the Clayton or whatever for the instant heat whenever you need more in a hurry. Just a thought. I've been thinking about this scenario for a while myself.
Xpac........I still love those hillarious pictures of the Voodoo Queen and ole Abe taking off, fleeing the roost, and digging the Grand Canyon, doing burn-outs, popping wheelies, and letting Evil KaNievel take a ride over those buses. I love it!!! Good to get another big laugh.......and we all need some good laughs after all the hard work we put in the complex repairs and restoration work. Jusk.....I hope you get that sucker to come off today....best of luck......maybe another can of penetrating fluid. (Do they rent side-ways jack-hammers?)
Xpac.......Ummmmmmmmmm......now Im beginning to wonder about your witch-craft abilities.......Your living with that Voodoo Queen, and now your out hunting for mushrooms. I bet you have Old Abe stirring a big cast-iron caldron with a roaring fire underneath, plopping in mushrooms, eye of newts, and all sorts of Voodoo thing-me-gigs. :stirthepot
xpack, with that pex / radiant tubing, you can use zone valves to isolate the sections of the slab that you want to heat more or less than other sections of the slab until you decide differently. Pex in the slab is like chain hooks on the corners of your bucket - you don't have to have them but your life will be a little easier if you do.
Grady i guess i never really thought about the zone valves might be a good idea for the 12 x 48 i want to heat all winter,I have already bought the hanging heaters for that shop so i have to use them but maybe a option for the 12x48 ..I have seen those loops for the claytons but never played with them are you using your loop to heat your water if so does it work pretty good ?? I am planning on leaving the clayton in the current shop just in case i need it up there (to many projects not enough heated room) so in the new shop i wont have any other source of heat but the boiler to get it up to temp quick.... The Central Boiler is the best thing i have done at this place my gas bill is always under a 20 dollar bill because of it....But now im hearing they have to sell the new type that has to be epa approved or something like that and it looks like a nightmare and i hear about a lot of issues with them ....Mine is based on the kiss (keep it simple stupid) method and i like simple..except with my backhoe hahahah
Yea im with you those are pretty funny its amazing what kids can do with stuff like that ..........now i just need to get pumpguy to help me adjust the pump to much black smoke bellering out the exhaust on them wheelies........hahahha
If i start slurring my words and start posting psychedelic images on here you will know i have swallowed the the wrong kind mushroom.....I wonder if i can talk them 2 into creating a onboard still (I have a creek) Hmmmmm????????? I may need some help from your neck of the woods........:falldownlaugh:scool:drinkup
Had to dig out the carharts but got the rops installed with the fenders with the backhoe
A couple more Hey 68 she went into that 10' door in the new shop no problem plenty of clearance i had to stretch out the hoe but i knew i had to do that anyway.......Hopefully jusk has a good day with his as well.......I still have to do some odds and ends to this but they can wait till warmer weather sure is a great feeling seeing this done ......
I do like this rops and the windshield but i need to come up with some sort of filler between the windshield and the tank maybe some black rubber or small piece of plexiglass ???????
xpack, she is looking real good. You have done some amazing work in a short time, plus left us all some great reference pictures for the tasks ahead. The ROPS and windshield look like they have always been there. For the windshield, have you considered moving the whole thing down, and maybe cutting a bit off the bottom mounting flange to clear the mounts at the bottom? You could have a filler panel bent up to fir into the top where it won't effect your vision ahead. The cover will also keep your seat dry and stop any water getting into the shift boot and your shuttle. An added benefit of the ROPS frame is to keep logs and such out of your lap if they over the top of the bucket and roll down the loader arms. My cab is nice for those rainy days but not a lot of good in a rollover or help in stopping stuff from coming into the cab. Back to the penetrating oil...:Banghead
Yea im going to do some studying on that gap i like your idea of moving down the windshield with the filler at the top...Dale at tractor stuff was telling me about these rops and said they werent made mandatory until they came out with the 580b's thats when osha stepped in and made them mandatory funny thing is if you did roll one of these im sure it would throw you around if osha was that worried about it you would think they would of been smart enough to seat belt them to.I like this rops for what im using it for but it would make it kinda tough to bail out if it did start to go and hopefully you wouldnt end up with a body part trapped under it somehow...... I try not to get into those situations but lets face it we all have brain farts now and then and im sure its one of those deals that its over with before you realize what hit you....
Jusk, log over the bucket and sliding down the loader arms? Were you there? I took a birch log to the windshield one snowy day. I was having trouble getting a grip on the log and it slid right over the bucket and down the loader arms and knocked the windshield out and hit me in the face with it - and no, OSHA, I wasn't even drinking. The windshield didn't break but it did dent the metal in the frame. It's hard to see but in the lower left corner there is a dent and wave in the 1/8" steel and the windshield is amongst the missing. I wasn't hurt but felt plenty stupid for being so impatient and horsing it. Lesson learned - the hard way - as usual.
Ouch Grady that would of hurt real bad if you didnt have that cab, that kinda stuff happens so fast heck you dont have time to react......Thats kinda why i put this rops on after a 6" branch speared that umbrella i had on mine that was enough for me to get the rops.......
Grady, I was picking up douglas fir logs and thought I should have three in the load. When I lifted and curled the bucket the top one jumped over the top and started down the arms for the tilt cylinders. Lucky for me, I hadn't raised the loader too far and quickly dropped it so that the guard on the front of the tractor stopped it there. A green log 16" in diameter would have made a nasty dent in the hood... I don't do that kind of lift without a groundman and chains anymore.
xpack, you're right. I saw the log start to slide back but couldn't lower the bucket fast enough to stop it. You'd think that you could just jump out of the way if you see something coming but it doesn't usually work out that way. I couldn't believe the windshield didn't break. That's a serious piece of glass. Once, I had a stump cartwheel on me when I was trying to get a grip on it with my excavator. It stuck one of it's long roots about the size of a finger about a half inch through the windshield causing the safety glass to shatter into a million pieces. I had shorts on and got a bunch of minor cuts from the glass when it basically exploded. Again, not hurt but that's money I could have put to better use. Jusk, chains are definitely the way to go, I was trying to free the other end of the log with the front bucket instead of taking the time to turn around and set up to use the hoe. It doesn't always pay to try short cuts does it?
Xpac......Bravo, Bravo, Bravo!!! Looks fantastic!!! Its only 3 degrees down here in Va., so its gotta be a good 10-15 degrees colder your way.......how in the world do you keep working in these temps, and not have your blood freeze-up? Maybe those mushrooms act as anti-freeze in your system, or ole Grady has send you some of those Florida oranges. On the windshield, did they ever slide the windshield down lower, and then place a piece of metal or something on the top portion? I guess you are using the same holes that came with the ROPS/windshield?
For a different point of view, we are talking about windshields here, why not just fill the space at the bottom with a section of Lexan? can never have too good a view. As for seat belts I would strongly suggest installing one and using it at all times. Just hitting one pot hole while traveling could knock you out of seat enough to cause a loss of control.And use a wide construction service belt not a skinny automotive belt. Less likely to cause injury if there is an accident as the wide belt spreads the strain over a larger area.
Thats the way the windshield was mounted when i bought it so i used the original mounting holes.....I still need to check it out a little closer but its just to frickin cold right now..I did look at it a little bit when i put the rops on and you can kinda see in the pic it might be a problem to move it down because of the hyd filter and possibly refueling..And if it is then im thinking like kshansen said use lexan for a better view....whoever built this windshield frame had drilled 4 holes in the bottom of the frame so im pretty sure it had something mounted to the bottom at one time.... Something else this rops had on it was a bunch of little twist clips on both sides (i removed them and filled the holes with weld) they must of been for side panels probably made out of vinyl i guess....I dont know if they would of been something from the factory or a aftermarket thing the rops has a case label on it.....
68 thanks i am happy with the way it turned out .......We had 2* this morning it was cold yesterday but nothing the carharts could'nt handle and i just wanted to get that rops on there and free up the shop and as you know i needed to get that kubota in there to fix that axle seal and i was able to verify it is the seal....My concern was if we get hit with the kinda snow like you got i use the kubota to move it (it has a heated cab) so its a priority..... I still need to finish my Marie Laveau sign and hang it on the front top like yours, but i have it painted black and now need to paint the letters......
Xpac......Heated Cab? Man, your getting soft on us. To make it fair to your critters, plug in that block heater, and maybe some of that heat will warm the bee-hinds of that Chrome Bird and the Voodoo Queen up on top.
I am chomping at the bit to plug in that block heater and check out how it starts but its been so cold i cant get Marie to get hot enough to open the thermostat and i dont want to plug it in until i know for sure theres no air in the block so i dont burn up the block heater.... Haha (gettiing soft) man how right you are....this is about the only thing that seems to want to work on this kubota without breaking down.I am begining to think the axle seal took a crap because i was working on the 580 and this kubota just didnt like it so it started leaking.... This kubota has been a joke since ive owned it it eats so much fuel you almost want a tanker to refuel it and i seem to have nonstop (big) issues with it and most of them theres no reason for it heck its a 2007 and i have already split it for a little shaft seal that started leaking tranny fluid and this is a seal that is internal so theres no way to damage it by the operator.....And i read about it when it happened and there was a lot of problems with this and you know it kubota just blows it off like it isnt their problem..... I now refer to this as a gentlemans tractor if you want to put on a suit and look good this is the tractor to have as long as you have the money to repair it after you start it... If you want to get something serious done then put on the blue jeans and the sh-- kickers and bust out the 580 and it will work the pi-- out of you......man i like this tractor hahah
xpack, if you look at one of the pictures of my machine, you can see where the bottom of the windshield glass is compared to the reservoir towers. Mine has a filler panel below that, but the whole cab is sheet metal, not ROPS. If you sit in the seat, there if full visibility of the front bucket and work area. An insert of plexi or acrylic might give you some visibility below the bottom of your windshield but some will still be blocked. I can certainly agree that you want all the visibility possible and I'm sure you will figure out whats best for your situation. I have the dome snaps all over mine and a set of vinyl panels to close it up. They are like new as I never bothered with them. I would do better for my old tractor to park under the roof rather than out in the rain with those covers snapped on.
Xpac.......I never thought about that, but wouldnt antifreeze fill up into the block from the bottom hose, and surround the block heater element? Maybe if you opened the drain plug and let a bit of antifreeze flow, you would know that the block heater has fluid around it, and can use it with no worries. I tell you......it makes a HUGE difference in freezing temps. I found that a couple hours does the trick on my 68 CK.......and she starts in a heartbeat.
With the price Kabota is charging for its "Gentlemen Tractors", they should be issuing recalls to fix all those issues. My neighbor had a large used Kabota for sale and I about crapped in my pants when I looked under the "For Sale" sign and saw a price of "$80,000". All it had was a front end loader on it. The baby Kabota's with those small front end loaders are death traps.....they want to flip over on the slightest incline when you have a load in the bucket, and one local person was killed already on one of these small Kabotas when it flipped over on top of him. And without the loader on, those small Kabotas are the roughest riding pieces of crap I have ever been on......will shake up your kidneys and leave them laying behind like old road-kill.
I cant wait to give it a try and yea it will fill from the bottom i just worry about a vapor lock in the block i was thinking the drain and heater are at the same level so it really wouldnt tell me a lot about the level of the antifreeze ..I will probably wait till warmer weather when it can get up to temp rather than take the gamble.......
You right about the price of the kubotas to their way to much for what they are and they dont hold a candle to these old cases......
Wow, I just noticed that there have been 30,660+ hits on this thread. I'm not sure that's a record, but shows the interest in what you have been doing with Marie.
Jusk It just goes to show there must still be a lot of interest in these old 580's heck i just looked at your thread and its already 6000 plus ....im sure there will be a lot watching your project as well ....for a lot of us owners this stuff is priceless ......
Ha ha, 6000 and little to nothing happening... Goes to show, we must be living the dream:notworthy
Hey, we are getting alot more hits and interest than poor ole Jeb Bush and those other corrupt scoundrels are getting at their rallies. Heck, since we are "Making old Case 580CKs Great Again", maybe my man Trump has been visiting this site to help learn more about "How to Make America Great Again". (Hey, at least he doesnt have fat checks/contributions coming from those fat cat lobbyists/special interest groups who control all the others).
68 watch it jeb will tell his mommy on you hahahahahah
Xpac.......Good point.......Im skirrrrrrred, and runnin fer tha hills!
Well now it seems the need to warm up marie before she moves is back...She has been setting in the barn for a while now and after starting her she had to warm up before moving its a lot faster to move than she used to be but i did have to warmher before she would move once she is warm she moves great like before.I dont get it if anyone has any ideas please let me know i am going to try case hy trans oil, i had put in tractor supply oil after the rebuild maybe this is the problem we shall see....I am not real concerned about this i would just like to know what causes this i have read a lot about this being pretty common but there has to be something that causes it to happen......
Xpac.....Hopefully the experts on this Heavy Equipment site will chime in on this question. Is it possible that the oil is too thick, and it has to get warmed-up to work properly? Guess I am now kinda glad I have the simple and basic antique style mechanical clutch type in my 580CK.
X.. every single one that I'v sat in with the shuttle does the exact same thing.. I don't know if its just the nature of the beast or not.. The customers don't complain, as a matter of fact.. their the ones that say, "she's gonna take a minute or three till she moves".. But then again, I'm just there to do the fuel work.. Maybe Dale knows.??
68 I am wondering that myself the oil from tractor supply runs $35.00 for 5 gallons and the case stuff is $100.00 for 5 gallons when the weather warms up im going to change it the only reason i went with tsc stuff was i wanted to make sure everything was working first with the cheap stuff and the case dealer is a bit of a drive from me ....I am hoping one of the experts have found out what causes this heck i have rebuilt everything i know to that might cause this and thought i fixed it but it was moving good when i had it in the shop where i was running the heat during the daytime and i could go up the next day and start it and it would move immediately....Now that its in the cold storage barn i have to warm it up before it will move although it is better after the rebuild just seems im missing something ??????? I wonder if jusk had to warm his when it was operating good for him he has the power shuttle im sure he will let me know how is acted....I will continue to use mine like it is as it works great after it warms its just frustrating trying to figure out the exact problem......It would be great if it is just the case oil i will repost after the oil change......
Thanks pumpguy i have heard that a lot and have even heard it of the 580b and there has to be something to it being the nature of the beast it just seems like there would be a fix for it...I know these are considered sluggish at best for moving but you would think when they were new that they would of moved right away even cold or people wouldnt of bought them but maybe im wrong about that.....
Xpac.....I agree with you....I bet when new, they fired right up, and would "getty-up" right away w/o warming up. Hopefully its just the oil being too thick. Maybe you could drill/tap and install another block heater for the hydraulic fluid.......then again, not a good idea......flash fire, boom! :badidea :spaz
Not that crazy an idea! They have heaters for just that purpose. Two examples: Pad type heaters: Immersion heaters: These are screen grabs out of this catalog: http://www.phillipsandtemro.com/userfiles/file/2015%20Zerostart%20Catalog.pdf There are more just grabbed a few that were easy to copy and past, they are near the back of the catalog.
kshansen i remember looking at something like these but i think the ones i seen were magnetic I was checking them out before rebuilding this and hoping i had fixed this warming up issue but i must not of got it and maybe i will get one of these heaters if i cant figure out what causes this......Just seems there should be a fix for this but maybe not, i would interested in knowing if someone had this problem and found the fix............
xpack, I don't get much real cold weather here. When mine was starting and running like it always has, it did take a few minutes to get up and go. I always attributed this to old age and wear. Some years ago, I did a full oil change and replaced whatever was in there with Hytran Ultra. I did think there was an improvement and will use it again, but maybe I just was trying to justify the additional cost. I have some friends that have the old GMC deuces with the hydramatic transmissions. They are known for their issues and these guys swear by Hytran Ultra to solve the shifting problems. I have also heard of cutting it with ATF but don't know the what or why. For my old tractor, I will stay with Hytran Ultra unless something is proven better.
jusk so yours has to warm a little to thanks for letting me know it may end up being like pumpguy says it could just be the nature of the beast..I know i fixed/replaced and checked the adjustments of everything that i knew to check when i was putting it back together and i might have missed something if i did im not sure what it would be that causes this warm up issue....I went to the dealer today and got the oil in the pic they said it was the best stuff they sold and at $100.00 for 5 gal it should be i am going to change it as soon as the weather breaks some and i will post back here what happens with this oil........
Kshansen.......wow, thats some good info there on the oil heaters. I really like the engine oil heater that is just like the block heaters.....I have never seen them before. Would be nice if they would just screw into the existing drain plug.....but looks like you have to cut the pan and then weld/braze the adapter on and then screw in the heater. Great idea.....I would love to install one of these bad boys.
Xpac.....Ouch!!! My wallet would have really been squeaking while considering that purchase....they say "your so tight that your wallet squeaks", as I cant bear to open it to toss out a few greenbacks. Seeing that price, my wallet would probably have jumped out of my pocket and took off like a bat out of hell. Hope it does the trick....will be good to know for sure.
68 what wallet i had to sell mine to buy parts hahahahah I have read about a heater that you pull your dipstick out and this heater goes int the dipstick tube seems theres all kinds of different ones out there.......This aint nothing the kubota uses like 11 gallons of the hy trans super ultra at about the same price and if i remember right one trans filter for that hog is like $80.00...It runs $400.00 to $600.00 to do all the filters and oils on that thing one more reason i dont like it......
Xpac.......Ouch!!!!!! Now I am remembering the post from they guy who was saving the oil and boiling it to reuse.....at these prices, it almost makes sense. I bought one of those long dip stick heaters for my smaller Ford tractor, but when it is inserted, it is only touching a couple inches of the oil....so most of the element is not even in the oil, and it did not work well. The ones with the magnetic mounts that slap right onto the oil pan seems like the way to go if you dont want to drill the pan and install the block-like heater.....plus you can move it around and slap it onto the hydraulic shuttle area.
68 i wondered about those dipstick heaters now i know thanks Yea i have heard of trucks with filter systems on them for filtering oil to reuse it but that cant be cheap either but i guess if you have equipment that holds a lot of oil it may be they way to go..... We had 50* today and real high winds i watched tree tops breaking off (cottonwood) anyway i was able to change the shuttle oil and the case oil does seem to be thinner and has a light red tint to it.After filling her back up with new oil i fired her up and she moved right away but it is 50* outside....Now its just a matter of it getting cold out again and i will give her a try and post the results..........
Xpac.....Excellent! Keeping fingers crossed for you....you should have some more pretty cold days to give her a real test. Now I have it all figgered out.......the Case oil is just the Tractor Supply brand with some ATF added to it to thin it down.......haa haa, just kiddin......put that rope down, and stop dragging me off to toward that cottonwood tree......its too windy out to string me up.
68 oh yea cold dont leave us that quick that was one reason i crammed the oil change in there today so as soon as it gets cold i can give her a try......darnet if i would of known that i would of just added atf hahaha i heard 40-50 mile hr winds man it was getting it out there when i was walking from the new barn to the old barn i heard and watched the top bust and come down to the ground i also heard one bust back in the swamp scary stuff but cool to watch at a distance....You getting winds like this today ?????
No winds hitting yet, and its supposed to be 60 degrees today.....Gettyup!
xpack, That Hytran Ultra is the synthetic version, right? I think I got the regular Hytran because it was cheaper. I'll have to check the container. My C will move when it's cold but I like to let any machine warm up a little anyway.
Grady thats a good question im not sure if it is or not it dont say synthetic on the bucket i did a little research after reading your post and seen the same name brand oil as this stuff but on the end of the hytrans word it says SSL which that one says it is synthetic mine dont say SSL so im not sure...... this link is all it says about the one i got from case yesterday and they claim it its there best stuff.....I like to warm mine before i take off to im just seeing how quick it responds after the rebuild just because im curious to see if it is any quicker than it was..... http://www.viscosityoil.com/hy-tran.htm
Well i fired her up this morning it was around 45* outside and she took right off.I will see what she does as soon as we get a cold night......
Ol Marie finally got her badge today And xpack got a new shot glass thanks to 68 ( i swear i smell that Virginia moonshine in it ) Now i can make my own mushroom brew hahahaha
xpack, you're right. My bucket looks just like yours. I was thinking the Hytran Ultra was the synthetic and different than regular Hytran but I guess not. Mine was "only" about $80.00 but the synthetic is probably more like double that. They didn't even have synthetic when these rigs were made so they don't require it but it probably works better at low temps. - and hey, that's a hell of a "shot" glass. Looks more like a tumbler. :drinkup
Yea Grady i should be able to get about 3 shots with this one which will = less elbow bending hahhahaha
Xpac......The "Marie Laveau" badge looks great.......and I see the "Voodoo Queen" in orange under the front grill. With all that hot orange, and wild women all around him, I bet Old Abe (the chrome bird) is keeping his knutz pretty darn warm, even on those frigid nights. I tell ya......those people in Michigan pour some really huge shots.......and one will probably be all you need. Yep, you can make all kinds of brews and concoctions in that wooden shot glass, and even a love potion for Old Abe and the Voodoo Queen. Who knows, you might even make a special brew that will "Make America Great Again", and send a couple kegs down to Washington.
Grady......you could also put that fresh-squeezed Fl. juice into that shot glass, and maybe add a swig of quality Vodka from our buddy Putin. :drinkup
Yeah, or some good tequila before trump makes mexico pay for the wall. After that it's probably gonna get pricey. :drinkup
Grady........funny..... ointlaugh Maybe since the Vatican likes walls, Mexico will have the Pope pay for it....ha ha.
Here ya go grady after the wall is built you could probably hire this guy to dig the tunnel for the bootleggers ...if he knows how to dig stuff a little drier https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fbard1CwNOs
I got the return to dig hooked up today and im not sure if im doing things right or not but it appears you have to adjust the collar in the pic on the rod to set the rtd to be at level with bucket down ......but after you adjust it you cannot tilt the bucket back any further than level unless you move the collar all the way forward then you can tilt the bucket all the way back.....if the bucket stays level when digging a pile you loose the ability to curl the bucket as you dig which dont seem right but maybe it is....anybody know about this am i doing something wrong or is this how it is supposed to work...... heres the pic of the collar i adjusted the linkage by the valve
xpack, Do you have a copy of the Case 580CK Loader Backhoe Operators Manual? In it there is a brief description of the RTD function and an even briefer adjustment procedure. If you don't have it, I will scan and post tomorrow for you to puzzle over. I can't be much help otherwise as I don't have the RTD linkage on my machine. Likely one of the first things to get tossed if it was an issue.
xpack, The RTD is probably handy for loading trucks where there are repeated trips to a pile and you want to keep the ground flat and level. I've never had it on my CK. I just use the sight on the loader arm to indicate the bucket angle. I know you're trying to restore yours to original and want everything to work but like Jusk, I can't help you with that either.
Hmm i didnt know there was anything in the oper manual... yea i do have one i will read on it tomorrow and try to make heads or tails of it...I get the part about this being level when your ready to dig but i dont understand not being able to curl the bucket as you dig if thats how it is that means if you want rtd feature then the collar has to be manually set everytime to get rtd feature...... if you want to be able to curl the bucket all the way up or back you have to manually move the collar all the way forward on the rod disabling the rtd feature .....and if this is how it is the rtd feature might be alright for loose soil or gravel but to say dig into a compacted bank or hillside of stuff that has been there a while it would be a disadvantage not to be able to curl the bucket all the way up or back.......I will post whatever i find out about this while trying to figure it out......68 can shed more light on this as he has the rtd hooked up and i think he has been using it for a while......Mine never had it so it is new to me......
ha ha I dont think its the orange paint keeping his nuts warm and im almost afraid to give him anything from the shot glass imagine what he could do if he seen psychedelic YEEE HAAAWWW and yea a full shot out of that glass for me you would probably find me crashed out in the new barco lounger looking as beat down as that chrome bird after a night out on the town with the voodoo queen :dizzy:dizzy:dizzy:falldownlaugh It just didnt seem complete until i got her badge on her.......
Xpac, in this pic you might be able to see that my adjustment is higher up on the rod: I found a better pic: I will look over your pics tonight and get back with you....gotta rush out now. Im thinking there is something simple that you have put back sideways or upside-down, or maybe right-side-up.....drinking too much Voodoo Queen concoction.
68 ye i see that and if i have mine set about where yours is then it wont let me curl the bucket all the way back with yours set there can you curl your bucket all they way back ???? the rod that comes out the hole and hits the linkage for the control valve on mine is what stops it from curling anymore than level.....i am reading up on it trying to understand how its supposed to work it doesnt seem like you should have to adjust that collar or that when you do you cant curl the bucket all the way back.....heres some pics of the paperwork i have on it...
xpack, I had to read that a couple of times and its still clear as mud, something like the throttle adjustment page in the repair manual. At least you actually have the linkage to play around with. I'll be interested inseeing how this works or if someone else that has the RTD installed and working chimes in. I suspect they were removed for a reason....
yea it isnt very clear how it works exactly or how to adjust it so it makes sense i will keep playing with it and hopefully figure it out ......it obviously returns the bucket to level when its all the way down but to me right now it aint worth it if you loose the ability to curl back while getting a bucket full.........im hoping im just doing something wrong here .......
I don't have any anti-rollback linkage either but the self leveling bucket keeps the bucket flat as it goes up and keeps stuff from landing on the hood so I'm not sure what the anti rollback is all about. Maybe it's an anti-Darwin effect in case you aren't paying attention? I'm with Jusk and think they changed the design for good reasons. It took them a while to get the bugs worked out of these things. The C's don't steer for **** with a heavy load in the bucket. Progress was slow but steady and by the 90's things were better. No consolation for you xpack, I know, but if you get that linkage figured out, I''m interested. '68? any thoughts?
Xpac.....Im pretty sure my RTDig is working properly, but need to write down those adjusting instructions and go outside and see if it agrees with those instructions.....I agree with Jusk.....I read the instructions, and it is pretty muddy reading.....it will help to be outside with the machine to make a comparison.
grady Im pretty frickin confused as to how this is supposed to work i was thinking that small hyd cylinder hooked to the loader on the rtd side was for when you raise the bucket it kept the bucket level so you dont flip stuff over the bucket.Then i thought the rtd after you adjust it was so when you lower the bucket it is level when it is all the way down..But when mine is adjusted for level while down you cant curl the bucket back unless you readjust that collar at the end of the rod.....Im probably doing something stupid im just not sure what.....maybe i need to lay off the shotglass to get a little clearer head....hahahaha 68 when yours is on the ground and level can you curl your bucket all the way back ?????? jusk you had mentioned in your operators manual it said something about the rtd adjustment i looked in mine last night and didnt find anything unless i overlooked it or maybe you meant the service manual ???? if what you have is different than what i posted would you post what you have or maybe tell me what page and manual your seeing that in.....thanks
xpack, I think you have it right in theory - you just must not have the linkage adjusted right. You have to be able to curl the bucket or stuff will just fall out. Maybe less shot glass….. or maybe more! :drinkup
xpack, the RTD information is in the 580Ck Loader Backhoe Operators Manual on pages 26, 27 & 28. Pg 28 has the adjustment process, trial and error. I'll look in the repair manual but I think that is what you posted, a lot more detailed than the operators manual.
Xpac......Yep, my loader curls backwards when the bucket is all the way down to the ground and in the dig position. I used to let the concrete trucks pour left-over concrete right into the bucket, and I had to curl it back before they poured it in. I wonder how much weight that was.....filled to over-flowing with concrete.
Xpac.....Its been raining here, but next time I get a chance I will check the RTDig operation in detail, and get back to you. Maybe if I took pics of the operater handle control and the position of the rods and things at the different bucket positions, maybe that would help show any differences in the way we have it assembled. Probably something simple.
ok jusk stupid me i was looking in the oper manual for the tractor now that im looking in the oper manual for the loader/backhoe i see what you are looking at on 26,27,28,I worked on it again and found more info in the service manual and i have set it up and operated it by the book as im reading it.....But i still dont seem to be making any headway with it.....i was looking at the linkage on my control valve and there is a lot of slop in it im begining to wonder with all the slop maybe thats whats making it not operate correct .....arrgghh where the explosives.....
that would be cool when you can no hurry ........The book says if you have the loader raised and bucket dumped that you should be able to move the loader handle all the way left and all the way forward into the float position and the bucket should return to level while going down ....I dont even seem to be getting that to happen i have to roll the bucket back manually and it only goes back to level when i have the collar on the rod set for level which looks like it is about as far as yours in the pic.....even when it is all the way back to level what the book calls the anti-rollback rod is hitting the tab sticking up that hooks to curl valve preventing me from curling it any further....im not sure what im missing here but there is something to it ..........Thanks
xpack, mine has a lot of slop from wear and I had though about doing something about those bits before. Its way down the list now but maybe some day. I can see your frustration with the adjustments and after reading both the service manual and the operators manual, still am not sure exactly what its supposed to do. I get that it will curl the bucket back to level from the dumped position but without the linkage on mine, I can't sit and play with it. Without either the leveling cylinder or the RTD, I would bet that I can beat the cycle time that those features give you. But, its nice to have and be original if it actually works. Stay on it, you'll get it figured out.
Grady Im gonna have to try the more option at least i will feel like i accomplished something hahaha
after a couple hours of getting it handed to me by the rtd even though its not working right yet ....i finally did a little bit with her nothing major just moved some compost around and made a mudhole doing it oh well it was nice to work her a little.... heres a few pics......... heres where i removed the old compost pile i only had about 5-6 buckets here i had to move here she is with a load the new pile the mudhole in front of the new shop traveling threw the mud with a load
This is the loader linkage thats so sloppy heres where some knucklehead welded the lock nut for the adjuster Hey 68 heres a measurement on that collar to have my bucket at level and this must be why im having a hard time with the rtd .....apparently i have to adjust its attitude ....its probably that chrome bird getting cutoff and creating the attitude he keeps messing with me and i may have to threaten the torch.....:guns:falldownlaugh
i started her up this morning which was the coldest morning since changing the shuttle oil and she moved right away ....So i do see a difference in the oils.......not to say its night and day but im pretty sure i would of needed to warm her some this morning with the old oil......
Xpac.....Maybe you will see something different in these pics? I think the front bucket is almost in the dig position....the cutting edge is a couple inches above level.
Xpac.......I think I see something off when I compare this pic with the one you sent (one with your two fingers touching the bottom of the sloppy linkage pieces, and the gear shifter in the background). The part where your index finger is touching.....looks like mine is put on in the other direction. You have the nut toward the fender, where mine looks like its going the other way. You think this makes a difference? And maybe another piece is opposite too???
Xpac.....this might be the problem......Look in this pic, and you see that the linkage that you had your index finger on......that the bracket comes out on the Left side (in this pic), and not on the Right side (as in your pic). this may be just enough to make the hand lever go off so as to make it all goofy and not work right. What say you?
Xpac........and the linkage right above it is also on the wrong side......it needs to be flip-flopped so the vertical linkage is on the outside, almost touching the fender. As the old rooster would say, "I say, I say, I say son, I say, do you follow me?"
i think im following what you are saying you are talking about the round vertical linkage with the swivels on each end put it so it is facing outwards rather that like mine inwards....i dont know if that will make a difference or not but i will check that out......there are a couple of things i think i see on yours that rod that comes threw the square block on top of the plate it pushes toward the loader handle when you curl the bucket......that is what stops mine from curling back after i set the collar so the bucket is level when it is on the ground....that rod actually touches my loader handle which i think its supposed to when the bucket hits level but it also stops me from curling any further.....and on yours where you said your bucket is a couple inches above level and your rod only looks to be about 1/2" out of that square block that the rod passes threw....i can adjust that collar all the way forward and when i do then mine looks like about the same amount you have sticking threw the square block but then i can also curl the bucket the rest of the way back because that rod wont hit the loader handle...????? It also looks like that round linkage that my finger is on that is backwards from yours ......on mine the knucklehead welded the locknut on it and mine looks to be adjusted longer than yours ......of course i cant adjust mine i may have to get a new one so i can..... is your linkage sloppy where my fingers are pointing to on mine ???????????
Xpac......Yep, the round vertical linkage with the swivels on each end. I think you will find that when you change it, that it will tug the hand control over to the right some, and it could be that this amount of change will then solve the problem. It may increase the distance enough to allow you to set the front collar adjustment to about where mine is, and then still be able to curl the bucket backwards. So far, this is the only logical answer I can see to your RTDig issues. I hope it does the trick, as its a pretty easy change. The round rod that pokes thru the little square block actually comes through and hits that little "finger", which then rocks backwards a bit which then stops the bucket from curling any further. So the round rod should not hit the loader control handle. The loader control handle has that metal piece welded where the bend is, and that welded piece does go forward and makes contact with the long flat piece that pivots on the right corner, and has its flat edge about 5 inches over toward the left. (hard to describe all those pieces of linkages). Another idea.....maybe you got that long linkage rod, and its not for a CK, but for a B or another model. I will measure mine from end to end to make sure we have the same long rod. Yea, I had alot of sloppage going on, and tried to use more washers wherever I could fit another one in.
xpack, those are great pictures of Marie working again. Gives me inspiration to get on with my project as I miss her already. On a walk around the property, I saw a lot of stuff that the tractor will be needed for as soon as she is ready. The RTD setup is a bit of a mystery for me but can see where it will be nice to have it set up and working properly. Sounds like you have the same experience with the shuttle oil as I did. I went Hytran Ultra and won't go to anything else now. That was the advise I got and its seems to bear out. A minute at start up isn't a big deal, as I usually do the walk around while its warming up to check that all sysytems are 'Go' before taking off...
68 i will change that round vertical linkage i am actually thinking im just going to order new from dale tomorrow and tighten up all this slop in the loader handle to eliminate all the slop .....and you are right about that hitting the finger (Im getting brain fried trying to sort this out) that metal tab that is welded to the loader handle if i understand the manual right is supposed to go all the way to the left and forward as far forward as you can go into the float position which is detented to hold it there so it actually ends up at the end of the long flat piece you talked about...... thats the position it should be in when letting the bucket down then its kinda automatic to get to the rtd position if i understand it right but heck i could be wrong about that to.... heres a pic from the manual of what im talking about does this make sense ???? I am real curious about some measurements on yours i will try to get some of mine tomorrow as well.....
Jusk this was the first time being able to do a little something with Marie and it felt real good having her to this point .....I know what you mean about the inspiration thing when your in it as deep as your going it gets real tough to keep going after it especially when things dont go the way you think they should kinda like hooking up rtd 30 minute job turns into a 30 day pita..I know ol 68 sure made it easier to deal with mine...I enjoy reading your thread and seeing the critters and learning even more about these .......before you know it that old girl of yours will be back up and tearing up the ground....By then 68 should be ready to install that turbo and do some wheelies with his ....varoomazoomzoom...(speed buggy) haha I normally warm mine to before using her right now im just curious about the changes made so im playing with it just so i know........
Xpac.......Yea man....Greased Lightnin says "varoom a zoom zooom". Another rainy day here, but when over I will try to measure those RTDig rods just to see if we have the same lenghts. *****Xpac.....Yosemite Sam says, "Woe mule, woe, woe, WOE! When I say Woe, I mean WOE!!" I was looking at the drawing from the manual you just sent.......that "finger" shows the vertical short linkage that we were talking about, and it shows that now its mine that is installed on the wrong side. Now I am confused......so, I am guessing mine is wrong, and yours is installed right. Would like to see how other CK owners have these linkages installed.***************
Xpac.....I wanted to look at my "before" pics and make sure I did not screw up and put that linkage on backwards......this old pic shows it just like I put it back together....so, maybe some other Knucklehead screwed it up? But back in "tha day", the Knuckleheads did not have cheap digital cameras to take pics as they were tearing equipment down, and so it would be easy to get confused when putting it back together. Shoot, with the pics I was often scratching my head in a state of stupor. Once again, the old-timers were amazing in their ability to tear things down and put together correctly.......except for leaving springs unhooked, or hooked in the wrong spots...ha ha.
Many is the time I wish I had a digital camera back 30+ years ago. Not just to remind me where things went but also to document the various projects I was involved in. Sure we had the old film cameras but with them you had to hope the picture came out and that by the time the roll was developed and printed you knew why you took the picture! Now days I might take a dozen pictures of the throttle linkage on a small Briggs engine before removing the carb to clean it. Take several different angles of view just to be sure I can tell how that link was positioned and which hole it was in. Just the other day was looking at old files and came across the receipts from when I did the rebuild on my Farmall BN tractor back in 1986. That was a total disassembly, right down to bare castings every last nut bolt and bearing, strip all paint and rebuild. All that and not a single picture to document it!
This is what im talking about being brain fried i didnt even catch that until you just pointed it out so i looked at some other pics and they do show it set up like mine but just looking at things i think it will work either way it cant hit anything and i dont know for sure but it doesnt look like it would really change much either way.... Were supposed to be getting 5"-10" of the white stuff....by tomorrow so i wont be getting her out to play with the rtd until it clears up again but i will go get some measurements of the different rods/linkages so we can have something to compare to .......
Yea we used to label the crap out of everything and write down as much as we could with our little hand drawn maps of where things go.... and on top of that you didnt have access to others who had the knowledge like on this forum ....No doubt the pic says a lot but when you cant quit make out what you need to... you can usually hit the net and find what you need......Or at one point you could use your tractor to lift one of those vcr video cameras onto your shoulder to video tape it ..... Had a at&t tech out yesterday and he says by the year 2020 the internet will be coming from these cell phone towers and wont be running threw wires or fiber optics and that it will be way faster he said you can look up some stuff by searching technology 2020.I havent looked yet but i may check it out.....
68 Here is the length of my rod from the end at the loader to the center of the bolt it is 58 1/2" thats not including the rod that slides into this one or the collar it is just the long rod here is the length of the rod that hooks to the bracket that is mounted to the hydraulic tank it is about 19" to the center of the pin here is the length of that short round linkage 3" center to center of the swivels
Someone figured out a way to re purpose their toilet i wonder if it can be (gas) operated hahahaha
Loader Valve Linkage xpack, I looked at the linkage on my loader control valve and the centres are 3", same as yours, mounted on the same side of the brackets. I don't think its an issue placed on the other side unless you had the 3 spool valve for the clam bucket. Mine has what looks like the original ball and socket linkage and I recall seeing them in an industrial/auto supply up here, so if the one that somebody has put onto yours is toast, you may be able to get it locally.
Xpack, that Potty-B-Q is the best use I've seen yet, especially with the tank cooler. The cook won't have to go far for a cold one. Being on a pallet, it could go wherever the party was... Where I live, there used to be a lot of yard art like bathtubs, toilets and rowboats filled with flowers and vegetables but since more city folk keep coming out here there isn't as much creativity anymore.
Jusk Thats a great pic of the linkage and thanks for the measurement to i see 68's and yours dont even have a nut between those swivels where mine does and the swivels on mine are destroyed (slop) I will be replacing these and repairing the slop in the loader control lever as well ....These have been this way since i got it and i have wanted to fix them anyways ...Just got to wait for parts and the weather to break again..........seems the white stuff aint done yet..........
Yea you get out in the sticks around here and see the tub/toilet planters around here to..... HA HA and when the drunk lifts the lid and plops down he will have plenty of ice to cool down that new toilet ring tattoo......hhahah
Kshansen.......Yea, I hear you, and agree 100%. I did many various old car restorations, and just did not want to bother too much with wasting perfectly good film to take pics of torn-apart parts.....save the film for the final product. But it is a great and cheap tool to take pics before you disassemble, especially on complicated stuff.
Xpac.....10-4 on the measurements.....I will do the same on mine when the rain lets up.
Xpac.......Nice Voodoo Queen toilet/barby/ice chest! I pitty the fool who decides to take a seat on that "hot seat".
Thin is nowdays if you are not worried about having the newest and bestest digital camera you can pick up a good used one for about the same dollars that you would have spent back in 1970 to get two rolls of Kodacrome developed and printed. And slip in a set of rechargeable batteries and you can take thousands of pictures for a couple pennies of electricity to recharge them. And if some guy in New Zealand or South Africa needs help with his machine you can send them off so he has them before his morning coffee get cold!
Well, that's some good news anyway, at least she's moving better. - and the "more" is always an option. I can recall a time when it has worked for me when everything else had failed. I don't advocate it except for last resorts. Sometimes you just need to look at things differently and whatever it takes to do that just might help - it can't hurt, anyway. :drink up That's the only way to turn a compost pile, huh? Saves on the ole back, doesn't it?
Or send them "down under" and tell the guy "No worries mate". Pics fixes his problem and he is hopping around happy as a kangeroo chasing a dingo.
You got it Grady ........compost the other day, snow today different tractor though........man im ready for this to be gone and get into some good weather .......
I shoveled the driveway yesterday but it's 62 in NH today - Ya Hoo! It's only 63 in FL. It won't be over here for quite some time. We usually get snow in April and sometimes May. Average last frost here is May 31 and average first frost is Sept 30. Just barely time for tomatoes. I'm with '68 & Jusk with a thumbs up on the repurposed crapper. Someone has a good imagination. A guy down the road has some potty art and a rebel flag at the end of his driveway. I'll get a pic one of these days. xpack, you'll get that linkage straightened out soon I'm sure. Just a matter of time and a little head scratching with maybe a little colorful language thrown in - I've always found that helps. This is off topic but that's the story of my life with so many things going on at once. Here are some pics of the bushings that I had welded on the bottom of the swing where the boom mounts. The old ones were beat and this was the cheapest and easiest way out. Just needed a longer pin afterwards.
Good looking job on those bushing and a great idea the way you did it Grady like you said ya just gotta go with what makes sense $$$$ wise....I bet that will last as long as you own it.... Usually by april were pretty much done with the snow and to be honest this has really been a great winter ive used very little wood and only plowed 3 times so far i guess the older you get the longer the winters seem and the more cabin fever sets in..... I will wait until a little better weather to go back after the rtd hopefully by then i will start with a clear head and not be so tempted to wrap a monkey wrench around it :Banghead That crapper was a first for me to my daughter sent the pic to me and i thought you guys would get a kick out of it and as much as i love eating off a grille, i dont believe i could do that one..... although i told my wife i was getting rid of ours and building her one of them ....I think you know how that went :shf:shf..... hahahaha
Grady......thats a great idea on the bushings.....I will keep that in the back of my head when I start digging into my worn out backhoe bushings. I agree with Xpac......we gotta do the repairs that make $$$ sense, plus I will only be digging a few times a year, and dont need perfection. Xpac.....I agree.....a beautiful steak could suddenly loose some of its fine flavor if I was told it was grilled on that toilet-grill. I love the "shyit hit tha fan" thingey.
Oh, I know just how that BBQ conversation went. No sense of humor, I guess. I was thinking that same external bushing tech might work in other places, too. It's an easy way out for sure and works great. That was 30 years ago and it's still like brand new. You'll never wear it out if you grease it once in a while.
Grady......That extra long pin that you designed to fit on those welded external bushings......I see a clip holding one end, but nothing on the other......does it just hold in and nothing is needed on one end? If there is no room for a clip on both ends, I guess a couple washers and one small tac weld would work. I guess the internal grease fitting allows the grease to flow outward to the new external bushings......if not, looks like you could easil drill/tap and add a couple grease fittings. I like this method.....great idea.
'68, I don't think there is a groove for the snap ring on the other end - but there might be and I just didn't have one at the time. If it doesn't have one, it would be good to throw that pin on the lathe and make one - one of these days. I have one of those small dead blow sledge hammers that I pound it back in with once in a while. It doesn't do any serious digging anymore but it can get into places that my bigger machines can't - so it still gets the occasional call to duty like popping out a rock, small stump, or some trench work but it mostly gets used as a loader these days because I have better diggers that need the exercise more than the old CK. She earned her cushy job.
188D Head and Pan Removal Posted to wrong thread:Banghead
Posted to wrong thread:Banghead
This one is for xpack... I can't remember if he asked the question on his own thread, but here it is anyway... The rocker assembly on these Case 188D engines is lubed through a hollow bolt in the rear most support bracket of the assembly. I wired mine together before pulling the bolts to keep the pieces from coming off the shaft. That way, I just lifted it off and put it aside until later when I will clean and inspect the whole thing. The picture is the support and special hollow bolt with the hole.
Grady........OK, I follow you. The backhoe is more like extra weight for better traction these days, and the parking brake.....leave the backhoe digging for your better rigs.
Thanks jusk i have read about people not putting this back in the right spot and it obviously tearing things up thanks for posting it.....
I just learned one more thing not to mess up when i pull my head off. Nice info
Hey diver juskatla has a really good thread going on about the rebuild on his if you havent seen it here is the link HeavyEquipmentForums
Nice i just checked it out. thanks diver
anytime diver
Xpac.......Got a question for you. Fliptop said he thinks my brake pedals might not be original, as they looked a bit odd on one of my posted pics. Here are a couple pics....let me know if yours are the same or if maybe mine are installed wrong: There is a pretty big gap between both pedals, but the round locking cylinder does come out and slide into the pedal beside it.
68 as you can see mine looks all together different than yours but its probably because yours is a 68 and mine is a 70 but i think jusk has a 68 i dont think its because i have power shuttle but as soon as jusk sees this maybe he can post something aout his and if his comes back like mine then it must be a power shuttle thing .......
Xpack, good call about the model year being different. I have a 1967 and it looks different than both of yours...I will click some picks in the AM and post them. I remember when I had my brake pedals off they looked like they could be reinstalled backwards (wrong pedal on the inside toward the steering column). So when I looked close at 68's and saw the gap was quite a bit larger than mine, I thought maybe they were installed backward...Strange how all of these machines are so different, and yet so much the same. I feel like Case may have just used the parts they had near the assembly line that day.
Xpac & Fliptop......Yep, pretty interesting.....there is a big difference from the 68 and Xpac's 70. Not sure what is going on with Xpac's pedals and that upside-down "T" area toward the upper part of the pedals. Mine look alot more simple, but the gap between them is excessive, and you have to have your foot in the right spot to hit both pedals at the same time. Will be interesting to see what Jusk''s 68 looks like.
flip......heck yea when you can pics would be great to see the difference ...Like you said there are some differences...Im now wondering what locks the 2 pedals on both of yours mine has a piece of flatstock that flips from the left pedal into a groove on the right pedal 68's looks like there is a hole drilled in the left pedal.....
That T area at the top appears to only be a stop ....and unless yours is different than what i am used to seeing on tractors there should be a lock that is just a mechanical thing like mine the piece of metal you see between the pedals locks them together ....and if you want to use only one pedal at a time (i have always called it a steering brake ) you just flip the lock (piece of metal) so both pedals are not connected then you can push one pedal while moving and it locks up that tire which makes it turn sharp.....
xpack, I just went down and had a look at my brake pedals and they are the same as yours. Its the difference between the power shuttle and the standard clutch. While I was in the shop, I thumbed through the Parts book and sure enough, they are different. 68case has what is shown for standard clutch. In the pics of the pages in the parts book, you can see the difference in the left hand pedal, which on the power shuttle has a link, and on the standard clutch has a round pin. Why? who knows....
Jusk looking at the diagram are you thinking pin# 4 somehow slides in the right pedal if your in the seat and thats what is used to lock the pedals together on 68's tractor ????
xpack, Ya that's what I'm thinking too. On mine, the link bar has not been used in all the years I've had it. I like the ability to brake one side in tight maneuvering. I just have to remember the radius of swing of that thing sticking out the back....
I use mine now and then with the front end being so light especially if im in the mud it comes in handy ....
Xpac.....Yep, Thats a Big 10-4 from my back door. The round pin in one pedal just slides into the hole of the other pedal and locks them together.....I think its a pretty good design, why they changed it.....who knows?
68case, You have the standard clutch, right? I wonder if the tractors that were normally equipped with the 3 point hitch also had the standard clutch, as I don't think a power shuttle would be an advantage is you were plowing or using other implements that load the machine. Maybe someone reading this will know why the differences. Production changes I get, but the design differences based on the options I don't.
68case, on you vent location for the trans and rear end, I wonder if the 'B' plate is the same and they just swapped the plate and the seat mounting. On both xpacks and mine, the vent is located behind the seat and out seat post is welded to the cover plate. It also looks like your seat base is further back than ours. Does your seat have more travel for adjustment than what ours can do?
Jusk.......Good point.....maybe the entire cover came off a 580B. If the Bs have the vent in the same spot as mine, then that probably proves it is a B cover. Yep, I have a standard clutch, and Im pretty sure the farm tractors were identical (just a plain clutch and not a shuttle option). Maybe mine was an early 68, and yours was built later in the year after they made a change in the pedals......or, purely something designed for the shuttle (but I dont see a reason for it). My seat has the forward/reverse adjustment, and it comes forward plenty far to make operating comfortable. Xpac/Jusk......based on this pic, do you think the post is further back than yours?
Here is a pic of my brake pedals. Again, I have a 1967 and its a power shuttle.
Just figured out the design difference after studying it a bit. On the powershuttle models when you depress the clutch, it also depresses the brake. So as the clutch is depressed it uses the T shaped braket to apply pressure to both brake pedals. Wont even matter if the flat steel bar is down or up. If you own a mechanical shuttle, when you drepress the clutch pedal, you are only actuating the clutch. You have to use the brakes completely independently. Interesting...
fliptop, I think you got it! :notworthy
Now the t bracket makes sense .....68's tractor has always thrown me off a little as far as how that mechanical shutlle operates but it sounds like when he pushes his clutch it disengages his shuttle clutches mechanically somehow where our power shuttle we actually move a spool to change the flow of the shuttle oil to disengage ours...I amstarting to like the sound of the mechanical over the power hey 68 do your clutches grab real good like there is no slipping ???????????
FlipTop.......YOU THA MAN!!!! The lights just went on!!! Now it all makes sense. Thanks for enlightening us Knuckleheads who were having a brain fart about that "T" configuration vs my brake pedal style. :notworthy:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy It makes complete sense the way you described it......I can look at the "T" and see the clutch pedal moving down and causing the brakes to engage at the same time. Xpac......Yea man, my mechanical clutches grab like a a hungry leech in a warm Louisanna swamp. Getty Up! No warming up necessary....just fire her up and that clutch is grabbing and acting the way it should.....No runs, No drips, No errors (as Johnny Bench would say). Getty Up! Greased Lightnin Away!!!!
I like this power shuttle because i dont have to clutch it much but to me these just dont grab like i think they should and i have heard a lot of people say they were sluggish at best new even though i just rebuilt mine to me it still acts like it slips what little i have used it...Its like the rps are upon the motor but its just not getting to the rear tires like i think it should ...I am waiting for warmer weather to put her to the test so i know all the oils up to temp before i can officially say theres still something wrong ....... The other day for example when i moved the compost the water temp hit 170 and the shuttle oil temp hit 130 so i put her in 4th gear and tried to climb a small hill just to see what would happen and its just like the clutches are slipping but yet im running about 190 psi on the clutch pressure gauge which is very good according to the book ....I get that the tractor wont climb that hill in 4th gear but you would think if the clutches were grabbing good you could stall the motor and on mine i can rev her all the way up so the clutches have to be slipping in my mind......
Xpac......I wish the top-dog experts in here would chime in on the slippage issue. Seems to me they should be grabbing more, and really lugging the engine trying to go upgrade in high gear. My mechanical shuttle clutch grabs real good and never slips, and the poor engine would go crazy if I tried to go uphill in 3rd gear and Hi Range.....she would be huffing and puffing and probably stall out. So, the only time I use the highest gear speed is going downgrade and low rpms to go fetch another load of something. The old lady doesnt need to be kicked in the ass and spurred to death like a fresh young race horse.......save that torture for your Kabota. Ha ha
haha yea if i tried to do half the stuff with the kubota that i do with ol marie i have no doubt i would be looking for a website on how to rebuild that and hoping i hit the lottery before i started.......Yea i would love to hear from one of the experts about what causes this to happen and as bad as it would be i would consider splitting it again if i knew for sure what it was that does this ....I keep thing theres something in the shuttle itself or the torque converter but what for sure i dont know heck i rebuilt both .....and the scary part is i was talking to Dale about this the other day who we both know Dale has his s--- together with these and he was telling me about one that he was working on and he rebuilt the shuttle and got the same results im having so he split it and put a different shuttle in it and it moved fine ?????????? Its just hard for me to do another split ad put in another shuttle not knowing for sure if that shuttle is good or not or even if thats whats wrong...... I will wait till i can get her out in warm weather and see how she performs and if i see the need later and can pinpoint the problem there maybe a part 2 to this thread hahahah
xpack, I haven't had my manual shuttle apart but I don't think there are any "clutches" - I think it is just gears like the tranny. Pretty sure the clutch [pedal] is the only clutch involved. The power shuttle is like an automatic transmission so it has clutches, etc. It needs to be able to slip in some circumstances. You wouldn't expect any other vehicle with an automatic transmission to stall if it were stuck in high gear. The clutches would just slip. Probably not a good idea to try and make her climb hills in high gear.
I hear what your saying Grady it just seems mine is slipping worse than it should be even in the low gears and it has always acted like this even before the rebuild..I am used to running her in the warmer weather and right now its so cold out its hard to compare it to how it used to be...i keep thinking maybe the oil temp is affecting it and if it gets warmer it will grab a little better....I dont go up hills in the higher gears normally i use the lower gears.... i am just trying these things to try to get a feel for what maybe going on the other day when i was playing around with her and moving the compost i had her in 1st gear and trying to get a load of compost it would break the tires loose but not real good and i cant help but to think in 1st in a pile of soft stuff like that compost it should be able to spin the tires fairly easy and the ground under the tires was a mud hole so it was good and loose....Im sure i am giving her more engine rpms than it should need to do do this ..... One thing is for sure with the case oil in the shuttle it will move when its cold now.... although i am letting her warm up before i use her now... but before the rebuild i would have to raise a tire and throw it in gear and give her about 20 minutes before she would move at all on a summer day.... Once the temps start hitting 70* it will be the real test for me because i remember how it acted before and i will be able to kind compare it to the way it was before the rebuild... I may need to threaten that shuttle with the welder it seemed to settle old abe down for a day hahahahah
xpack, it would have been interesting to know how these Power Shuttle models were they were new or at least a lot younger. I don't think my shuttle has ever been out and if it has it would have been pre 1974, when my friend bought the machine. I'll have to track him down and ask about what it was like then, if he can remember. I have been re reading your posts about the shuttle overhaul, and also went way back in this forum to go through several other posts on the shuttles in CKs and Bs. One fellow, Phil had some experiences with these, but unfortunately he has stopped posting suddenly a number of years ago and we have not heard from him or what happened. Not good, I suspect. Wear on the bigger pieces may be the real problem, and changing seals and clutch discs may improve it some but internal leakage may be the root cause. By swapping shuttles, Dale would have swapped in one with less wear? Tolerances should be measureable, if we could determine what they should be. I'm not ready to pull mine yet, but will follow down the same road as you, and with your experiences and those of others who post here, go through all and any possible causes for our collective benefit. xpack, when you pulled the torque convertor, what was your motivation in tearing it down? I have to decide if I should go there. Did you find anything that would be an obvious wear issue while you had it on the bench?
Jusk the main reason i resealed the torque converter was because i had it tore down as far as it was and i just couldnt bring myself to not doing it i wanted to know i had done everything i knew to do to try and fix any internal leaks i could think of while it was down.What i didnt want to be faced with was the thought of not doing it and wishing i would of i wanted all posibile suspects eliminated...... While i was in there and getting tips from Dale i remember there was a brass or bronze bushing in there that you had to check something on it i just dont remember what it was im thinking a wore out thing you would see with the naked eye and i looked for what Dale had told me about that but mine was fine beyond that there was nothing that i seen that looked worn or broke and in my opinion that was way easier to do than the shuttle.....so i put the new sealing parts in it and left it at that..... The same goes with the shuttle the only thing that was a given was the springs on the hubs which i replaced and heck Dale had to tell me about being able to replace them as the manual will tell you to replace the whole hub...And your right at least in my books it sure would of been nice to have some tolerances for all of the components so i could have checked them but i couldnt find any.... Its kinda like the torque convertor pressure relief valve on top of the torque tube when i tore that apart mine was hard to get the spool out like it was sticking so i was hoping there was something to that... i cleaned everything up good and the spool moves free and smooth i even replaced the spring with a new one so i knew they spring tension was correct... And there is a test port on this relief valve which i havent tested yet but will be i think it should be between 30-40psi ...I spoke to Dale about this pressure and the spring and Dale said he knew the book says 30-40 but that he has seen them move with a 0 psi reading from that port and has seen them move with the correct pressure reading.. I am with you i have done all of this to it and have made some differences to it but i think there is oil bypassing something allowing the clutches not to get the proper pressure they need to prevent slipping .....One of the things i am struggling to understand is i now have real close to 190 psi reading on my clutch pressure gauge used to be 180psi but even at 180psi the book says thats good and i am thinking this is how much pressure is really on the piston pushing on the clutches and if thats true its getting what the book says it needs so how can it possibly slip......Dont make sense...... Did yours seem like the clutches were slipping on yours or did yours grab real good ??????????
xpack, I'm having a slackers day today. I cleaned some dirt off a bunch of pieces to get them ready for the parts washer and loaded the baggies of stuff into totes to get them out of the way. But that's about it. Maybe I'll be better motivated tomorrow. I have been pouring over the Service Manual and thumbing through the Parts book but can't really see why the clutches should slip. On mine, I could spin the rear wheels when pushing into a large soil pile that I stockpiled here over the years. So, I don't think that they are slipping but I am pretty sure the springs in mine are broken, like yours because with the shuttle in neutral, I can't shift gears on the transmission without grinding. It will be worth pulling the shuttle if I can just fix that because the neutral start is bypassed, and I have to shut down when changing gears to run up the road or go down to 1st for the hill toward the water. If I'm in there anyway, it would be prudent to do the rest. I will have to source the necessary parts once I see what is involved. On the convertor, I should just go ahead an pull it out, do a cleaning and new seals. At least I will know what condition its in then. Good heads up on the wear, I'll do a bit more research on that before going in.
Xpac.......Man, that would be a pain to crack the egg open again......I hope with warmer temps the slippage goes away. But now your the expert, and you could probably tear the Voodoo Queen in half and back together in a day.
jusk/68 i wont split ol marie again unless i know for sure that there is a definite fix for this but it will pretty much have to be a guaranteed fix or i will use her like she is.If i found out there was a sure a fix for it i wouldnt like it but i am the type to go for it to get it corrected and what the heck by the time i would be ready to do this a second time maybe you guys will have yours done and i can convince you guys to come drink beer and tell me what the heck im missing......I will start stocking up on the beer and finding out where to buy airline tickets for the .....evel knievel 580 buss jumpin airline express..... after all she dont need clutches to fly and she does have wings....hahaha
Xpac.....Yea Man! GettyUp, Hi Ho Silver AWAY! Hi Ho Marie Lavaue, Away! I still remember that pic of your buddy Evil Kanievel driving your CK "Voodoo Queen" through the air over those buses, and then over the Grand Canyon. You got crazy in your blood even when your not sipping that Flint Moonshine. Ha ha
68 just make sure you have a d.o.t. approved helmet when she picks you up wouldnt want you guys to get a ticket on the flight here hahahah.... hahahahahahha :eek2:eek2:stirthepot "Flint Moonshine" :stirthepot:eek2:eek2 Good One Now you know why we come to the hills of Virginia to get ours hahahahahaha Another thing that came to mind about my shuttle while i was counting sheep lastnight was for some reason when i had mine tore apart i learnt i had the rockford shuttle which from what i understand is better than the twin disc shuttle as far as having to rebuild it apparently the twin disc is harder to rebuild... But when i removed the torque convertor i noticed a tag on it that said twin disc which at the time struck me as odd..... but i know on the shuttles you can use either a rockford or a twin disc .......But what about the torque convertor did they even make a rockford ??????? if so why would mine have the twin disc torque converter and the rockford shuttle i would think that it wouldnt matter which torque convertor you had as you can use either for the shuttle..... But i wonder if this means someone in the past was having a problem with one of these and somehow swapped out one of these and that why i have the twin disc convertor and a rockford shuttle ????? I will have to do some research now to see if rockford even made a torque convertor and if they did you would just think when she was new i would have either both rockfords or both twin disc........
Xpack, I just checked the parts book. There are two listings for the power shuttle, but only one listing for the torque converter. The two shuttles are the A38133 Power Shuttle Clutch Rockford and the A38926 Clutch Twin Disc. The torque converter is A37654 Torque Converter. I have seen a torque converter removed from a 159 gas engine that also has the Twin Disc Co metal plate attached. I think Twin Disc made the torque converter for all the power shuttle models whether gas or diesel. I can't tell what made Case choose which shuttle went in the tractors. It doesn't seem to be model year related. Also, I don't know of anyone with the twin disc shuttle to see if it performs better than the Rockford.
Jusk great idea to create a little down time from your project it gets old to go after it day after day i got burnt out on mine a few times and just had to step away to try to clear the mind a little and believe me with a mind like mine i should of hooked up a shop vac to one ear to suck all the crap out of my head but even then i dont think it would work hahhahah Yea the shuttle is the worse of the 2 as far as resealing just a lot of stuff going on in there not to say the torque convertor is a cake walk but it was easier than the shuttle if i had to do this over knowing what i know now i would make sure i had all the orings and sealing rings and those springs that it sounds like yours needs setting on my bench before i started tearing them apart at least if nothing else is screwed up in them you would be able to rebuild them as soon as you tear them down just so its easier to remember how to put them back together ......By the way do you know if you have the twin disc or rockford shuttle i dont remember you saying and i ask because that twin disc is not as easy to rebuild as the rockford from what i have read hopefully yours is the rockford like mine was .... I have read a whole lot of what Phil has wrote about these and your right that guy knew what he was talking about i sure wish he was still around it is unfortunate.......
When you are talking about clutch slipping are you sure it is not just the normal slip in the torque converter? The converter is more or less a fluid coupling note a solid mechanical connection. So when asked to attempt to climb a grade in too high a gear it would not be abnormal for it to stop moving with engine still running. Don't know if there is a specification for "stall speed" listed anywhere for these tractors but that is something many companies do list. You run in the top gear and either hold against the transmission with the brakes or try pushing against an immovable object and check for maximum RPM. This would assume engine is running 100% its rated horse power. On some large equipment, like Cat front end loaders, there is a drive shaft between the converter and the transmission so that makes it easy to see if there is in fact any clutch slippage. Not sure if there is any place you could actually see the output from the converter on one of these Case tractors.
xpack, I didn't mean to imply that there is nothing is wrong with your shuttle. There might be, I don't know. I have power shuttles in the C and K and they seem to work fine but they don't spin the tires like the CK with the manual shuttle. I've never noticed that temperature affects them very much but I try to let them warm up a little before working them -esp. in cold weather. Your differential will probably last a lot longer if you can't spin the wheels much. I know you're probably a little disappointed after all that work but I'd just work it and see if it can do what you want it to do. If not, maybe keep your eyes out for a shuttle that you know works or a manual shuttle. I like the manual shuttle on the old CK's because they have less power to start with and it seems like I have more control with the manual shuttle. The power shuttle is better if you're loading trucks all day or in a pit but around the farm, I'll take the manual, any day. Good luck with it.
Xpack and kshan, I have read every thread on this forum that has a 580CK in it. I have found that these machines were known to be dogs from the day they were new. Any of the power shuttle machines were great for construction site work, but not for road travel, especially hills. They don't like going up hills. Complaint of operators since day one. Mine is the same way. Down hills fine, but crawls up them even in first gear. In regard to seeing the shuttle while running. The shuttle will be spinning at the same RPM as the engine. So unless you have a plexiglass plate where the cover normally is, you will have a terrible hy trans mess on your hands.
Xpac.......You may want to send a private email to some of the experts in here, who probably dont have time to read all the posts.....maybe they could give some insight about what is going on. I like the idea of the shop vac cleaning out the crapola between the two ears.....I will have to give it a try. Flint Moonshine.....yea man, you dont want to be drinking any of that Flint Moonshine, unless the moonshine kills all the lead and poisons in the water. When are you gonna string-up your governor? Seems he should be forced to drink this poisoned water for a couple years, and see what it does to him.
xpack, I don't know if you've seen this or if it helps but here is another similar situation from a different site: I'm the proud owner of a 1974 Case 580 CK backhoe [power shuttle] She's old, she's ugly but she runs great. Lately I've noticed that if I don't warm her up for at least 15-20 minutes, she won't move. The clutch doesn't engage until she's warm. Is there any adjustment I can make so she would grab faster? Once she does grab, she's OK from then on. ………………………………………………………. When trouble shooting any problem, start with the simple things first. Example: If an alternator is not charging, check the alternator drive belt first. Also, you are well advised to purchase a “Service Manual” from a Case Industrial dealer. While it is not cheap, the trouble shooting guides and illustrations make it worth every dollar. There are two types of power shuttle drives used by Case for the 580, Twin Disc and Rockford. Trouble shooting both are basically the same. With clean oil, filters, proper oil level, and clutches are NOT transmitting full power: 1) Lubrication valve stuck open a. contamination or wear in spool area causing hang up. b. regulating valve spring broken or improper tension. c. poor register between clutch hub and piston carrier. 2) Clutch dump valve stuck open a. contamination or wear in spool area causing hang up. b. regulating valve spring broken or improper tension. 3) Low oil pressure a. worn out or malfunctioning oil pump. (180 psi engagement) b. clutch pressure regulating valve out of adjustment (40 psi lubrication) 4) Piston outer sealing rings scored or wedged in piston grooves – oil contamination. 5) Oil pressure NOT being applied to the whole piston area – contamination in the oil transfer orifice holes between the primary and secondary clutch piston areas. 6) Opposing clutch NOT dis-engaging when shifting to the other – opposing dump valve and lubrication valve stuck closed. The converter and lubrication oil regulator valve is located near the center of the torque tube cover and is held to the cover by two bolts. The converter oil temperature sensor is also located on that regulator valve. The valve spool is in that small casting behind a snap ring and retaining plug. The spool MUST move smoothly in the bore. The valve spring (uncompressed) should measure 1.375” and have 10-12 lbs. pressure at a .75” (compressed) height. The clutch pressure regulator valve is located between the two spools on the control valve body. The regulator valve spool is behind a screw-in plug with shims to adjust the clutch pressure. The spool MUST move smoothly in the bore. The (uncompressed) length of the clutch pressure spring should be 2.04” and have 45 lbs. at 1.344” (compressed) height. The clutch pressure should be at or near 180 psi. There is an oil pressure test port (pipe plug) located on top of the control valve. Adding a .0209 shim will increase pressure by 5 psi. A .0418 shim will increase pressure by 10 psi. Likewise, the removal of a shim of each specific size will reduce pressure by the stated amount.
Grady....Thats some real great info. for Xpac to check out.......could be just a shim missing, or some of the other specific details mentioned.
Hey Flip does yours break the tires loose when your trying to get a good load of dirt in 1st???? ..... What mine is doing maybe normal but it just seems it should be better although it sounds like yours is about the same as mine ..... I do have some plexiglass and when it gets warmer outside i may give it a try just to know which one is alllowing it to slip if i could even see with the oil spinning up on the plexiglass.. thanks for the info about yours i have read a bunch on here about these to and your right about a lot of people said they are dogs when moving the hard part is knowing if you have a normal dog or is it worse than a normal dog ??????????
Grady yea man i read that one ....and i will be honest i havent done all of the test on there yet but i am going to get into that when it warms up some ...On some of that list i did eliminate some things when i rebuilt it but not all of them ......Thanks for getting that in this thread it will come in handy.......
GRADY>> that right there my friend is worth its weight in gold..!! X>> I was at my friends house the other day.. and his "helper" jumped-up on the tractor.. started it.. waited 5 seconds and drove it to us. WTH? It was cold enough for me to have on my "long handles".. I've worked on that tractor for months{YEARS** since he brought it home.. Fluids, filters and brakes.. and its NEVER moved like that>>?? I don't know what gives.. maybe GREMLINS..??
kshansen nothing to be sorry about i appreciate all you have done and i dug the service manual out the other day after reading your post that day and so far i havent seen a stall test for the converter and i maybe overlooking it ......My manual is not a original manual so its kinda hit and miss for good info it does show good hyd prints in color and i wish i knew more about how to read them so i had a better understanding of what was supposed to be happening exactly in that torque tube... here are some pics from the manual and there is 2 test i want to do one of them is a test at the shuttle filter housing and the other is the torque converter relief valve i havent done them yet but i will be..... Heres the print for the oil flow heres a page of how it works heres the checks i need to do I dont know if this helps or not and right or wrong and i dont know if im right about this but so far what i see is the shuttle pump is supplying oil to the whole system and i think i see where this shuttle pump picks up the oil and it goes to the filter then goes to the cooler then threw the spools and to the converter and to the shuttle but after this is where i get lost heck i cant even say for sure exactly what the torque converter is doing the book says it multiplies engine torque but does it also act like a fluid coupling and will slip at a certain point .....therefore not turn the clutches although i dont fully get the shuttle either i know it has a piston pushing pressure against the clutches and i am reading 190 psi for the shuttle which the book says is good so to me the shuttle is getting what it needs to operate as it should......which leads me to believe its something with the torque converter i just need to learn more about exactly what the converter does......
pumpguy short of me checking this out after the rebuild and trying to see how she acts ......The normal for me in cold weather is raise the rear tire off the ground and throw it in high gear and let her get warmed up good before i try to move it...and before i rebuilt it on a cold day when i raised the rear tire and threw it in gear it wouldnt even attempt to turn the tire until it got good and warm but now it turns the tire right away and improves as it warms..... I used to have to warm it in 80* weather or it just wouldnt move before the rebuild just not as long on the warm up as in the winter...I will see how it acts now when it hits 80* here...
pumpguysc, its probably got a case of the voodoo hoodoo from hearing about xpack's marie.... You know those women can be:Banghead One of these days all these mysteries will be solved, and then what will we do for fun and entertainment?
xpack, I hear you. I'd be P/O if I had to go through that just to get the thing to move - esp. in warm weather. I'd look at everything you can do or check without having to split her again. After that….you know what you're in for. I noticed that nothing in that troubleshooting mentioned the torque converter. I don't know if that could be an issue or not but it doesn't seem like it would be affected by temperature alone- if it has the right oil. You're going to know a lot more about these power shuttles before long and I guess a lot more of us will too. Keep after it, with enough heads, we should be able to come up with something.
Jusk if we ever figure out these moving issues we will probably find a kanutin valve thats held on by a wobble washer that controls the thinga ma bob so we will have plenty to keep us entertained with that one im sure......hahahahahaha
Xpack, I can break the tires loose in first and second while trying to load a pile of stone or loose dirt. Third and forth I cannot get that to happen. For short runs around my property or just to a neighbors house, third or fourth are great. As soon as I start up a hill, even a low grade, I start to loose ground speed while engine RPM does not change. I usually continue to travel until I cant stand it and stop and select a lower gear. I sometimes have to crawl up a hill in first gear. It takes FOREVER! I notice too that my trans temp increases greatly during these road journeys, but my converter hot light (which does function) doesn't come on. These transmissions really heat up quite a bit. I think that the heat in the fluid only makes the problem worse. In terms of the mechanic shuttle, I can see where the problems we are having may be overcome. However, I would think that the ability to push into a fill pile, into snow, or into compost may be lost because the engine will be directly coupled to the driveline through the clutch. So you would have a greater chance of stalling or riding the clutch to do some of the things we can do with the torque converter. I guess we give a litte and get a little. Later models of the shuttle perform much better at higher speeds. I know that from operating 1990's equipment with my father and having to do some road travel. I think we both have dogs, I just think yours is now normal because of all the work you put into it. Mine is still just a worse than normal dog. Maybe its new name. Old dawg...lol
xpack, I like kanutin valve, its like the remostat that was always causing trouble on our big computer systems in the early '70s... Nothing like a faulty remostat to cause a potential unscheduled opening of the kanutin valve and dump a load of wobble washers.
Flip.....i dont think i could break my tires loose in 2nd like yours im hard pressed to break them loose in first......where do you have your trans temp gauge hooked up at i put a gauge in the pressure relief valve body for the torque converter where the hot light sensor was ....and do you know the average temp your tans temp runs ??????? When i worked mine moving the compost the water temp was 170 and the oil temp made it to about 130......
HA yea one of my favorites was the left hand crescent wrench hahahah
xpac.......The hillbillies of the mountains around here just get a 5 gallon bucket of sawdust from the old sawmill, then dump it into their slipping trannys to get them to work a bit longer. Maybe thats the answer to get the Voodoo Queen to claw a bit harder into the mud.
68 now thats a good one hhahahhahahha Scary part is i know of some who would actually do something like that ...hey put a patent on that stuff and advertise it as the finest sawdust with the secret moonshine anti slip ingredients fresh from the virginia hills and sell for $19.95 a bucket .....If you build it they will come.......:jawdrop:jawdrop:falldownlaugh:falldownlaugh
How about a metric crescent?
from fliptop's post: "In terms of the mechanic shuttle, I can see where the problems we are having may be overcome. However, I would think that the ability to push into a fill pile, into snow, or into compost may be lost because the engine will be directly coupled to the driveline through the clutch. So you would have a greater chance of stalling or riding the clutch to do some of the things we can do with the torque converter." It's certainly possible to stall my CK with the mechanical shuttle if it were to come up against an immovable object like a large tree, some ledge, or even a pile of stone or fill if you just push into the bottom and don't curl or raise the bucket as it fills up but in first gear and low range - something my power shuttles don't have - that thing will just about crawl up a wall and has no trouble filling the bucket up without stalling. It's more likely to spin the tires - even with chains - and jump up and down. I replaced the clutch in it when I first got it over 30 years ago and I don't baby it. She still pulls the front wheels off the ground by accident so the clutch is still holding up. I really prefer the manual shuttle in the CK and I like he HI/LOW range that can be used in all gears. I have the power shuttles in the newer machines and I like the electric cut out switch on the loader handle and the brake pedals that acts as a clutch but I think those came later.
I have at least one of those! Also had a guy at work who could not understand when someone mentioned getting a new "cordless screwdriver" he would say "Heck, none of my have cords, what's the big deal?"
Haaaaa haaaaa:lmao:lmao......good one....."you build it and they will come". Thats from that old baseball movie, Field of Dreams I think.....good ole movie. I like the idea of mixing Virginia Moonshine with the fine sawdust, but we might have to up the price a bit to cover all the distillery costs. :stirthepot And Trump should approve, as it surely will "Help make America Great Again".
kshansen....Great deal on that Adjustable "metric" wrench. I know what you mean.....I hate the cheap ones that flop all over the place, with WAY too much tolerance on the screw/mechanism......so sloppy that they are about junk.
Grady whats that electric cutout switch on your newer rigs used for ??????? just curious......I think i would like the mechanical shuttle just because they had obvious problems with the power shuttle on the cks ....
No cords on his screwdrivers (you probably should of told him theres battery's in the handles while you went to lunch) hahahahah
I guess his were all Mexican screw drivers "Manuel" or is that Manual?
xpack, It's a clutch cut-out switch. It's sort of an electric clutch as it gives you a temporary neutral as long as you have your thumb on the button on the loader handle or foot on the brake - my C has a switch on the dash to enable or defeat that feature. I think it's an electric solenoid that controls the hydraulic flow. Some have a switch on the floor you can step on for the same thing. Does your's do that if you step on the brakes?
xpack, I think you'd like the manual shuttle, too. I love mine - and the HI / LOW range shifter, too. It's more shifting but way more control, too. Like others have said, even when the power shuttle is working good, it's still a dog. I like it in my K but that's with the Cummins turbo that has way more balz than the ole CK - and the thumb switch for more control.
No with mine the only thing it will do is when i push in the clutch it will apply the brakes .......when i hit the brakes it dont have anything to dissengage the clutch.......I was actually surprised after i fixed the brakes that the the clutch pedal would operate the brakes....heck i had drove it for so long without brakes when i got it that i kept forgetting that i had them after i fixed them .......haha
Out of curiosity I found a huge adjustable wrench priced around $1000.....but could not open the site to get details, and then found a megga-huge 3D printed wrench on Youtube that was about 5 feet long. Not sure what the largest made is.
Heres one i have had for years heck i dont even remember the cost but it wasnt cheap it comes in real handy on the equipment i have put cheater pipes on it and it hasnt broke yet.... This set is also handy on the 580 its a cheap china 3/4" set i bought when i had my old dragline crane back then i think it was harbor freight used to come to town and have sales in parking lots there was no stores here back then .........
Xpac.....that wrench has the jaws of a Great White. I bet Old Abe is wisely staying away from that nasty fish.
Finally got back to working on the old girl Finishing up some things so here they are........ Here is a pic of the old throttle return spring someone had it hooked wrong and it made the pedal hard to push heres a shot of the new spring and WOW does the throttle work great now I used to have to pull the throttle lever back a long way for it to start to rev up so i ended up bending the linkage to get it adjusted right and now it responds with very little movement changed the swing cylinder bushings today.... got the new ball joints on the loader control
Welded 1/4" diamond plate to the bottom of the backhoe bucket went over the top of the old bottom should last a long time now.........
Xpac......Great work! Shake, rattle, and roll......man, you are on the move for sure! I need to check that spring on my linkage also, as something is not quite right in there. I love the diamond plate on the hoe bucket bottom.....great idea! I also want to do the swing bushings......just wish I could roll as fast as you do. Im more like the 85 yr old woman driving her 1959 Caddy with the bumper sticker, "I may be slow, but Im in front of you".
1968 and onemank6 - boy you guys sure posted a TON of great info on this forum. I just got a 1967 580ck given to me by a widow down the road. it sat 5 years unstarted, and I'm in the process of trying to make her good again. I'm up here in Michigan. Some of the work will definitely be easier with all the photos you posted. I definitely have a lot of learning to do having never worked on one of these before.
Kaufman......Hey man....welcome and thanks for the positive thumbs up about our postings during our restoration work. Everyone on this site tries their best to help out as much as possible.....so, hopefully we can help with any questions you might run into as you work on your "new " 67 CK. Hey, it was the first time for me too.....I had no experience on these big rigs until I just dove into it. As ole Ross Perot would say, "Talk is Cheap, Just Do It!" Thats what most of us do.....we just dive into the problems and use whatever tools we think will do the job, and usually it gets fixed. Send some pics when you get a chance. Dwight in Virginia
A kind older woman down the road from us gave me this old machine, and told me her husband had just loved it. His pride and joy. But he got sick and passed away a few years ago, and the machine has been un-used. I really appreciate her trusting me with it, and hope to get her back into service, though I realize it will take some time/effort/$. These are a few pictures of what she looked like on day one:
KOOL.. you still have Abe the eagle on the front..or is that just an outline..
kaufmath.......Thanks for posting some pics. Looks like a great ole CK, well worth your time to get her in good mechanical condition, and maybe a fresh paint job down the road. Looks like she still has good tires (thats over $1000 you dont have to shell out right now), and at first I was going to say it looked like the original factory paint.....but then I see some yellow on the intake manifold, and the orange paint seen underneath the yellow. So, I guess someone had her repainted many years ago. I can see the old shadow of the old Case Bird (called Ole Abe) between the two missing headlights. Amazingly you can still buy beautifully detailed new birds to fit that spot....got mine from Dale at Tractor Stuff (best customer service in the world, hands down!). Strange how they set up the roof posts on yours.....almost looks like the same 4x4 steel posts that I have, but mine are done alot differntly, with them sloping backwards on the front, and straight on the rear. Guess you will start with the basics....fresh oil changes, air filter oil bath, power steering fluid/filter, drops of oil into the generator holes, fuel filters, etc. etc. Hopefully you dont have too many hydraulic seals to replace right off the bat. Good luck with your new toy.
That wild Old Abe leaves his mark all over the country, and it looks like he flew the roost, and probably made his way up to Michigan to spend some time with Marie LaVoue. We will have to direct kaufmath to the postings where Old Abe is having a romantic encounter with Marie LaVoue......beer, cigarettes, and the little blue pills. Hillarious.
I can see hundreds of dollars in new hoses so many of the leaks may have already been dealt with by the previous owner. How does it run and move? Are there any major issues? It looks pretty good to me except for some cosmetics. Good Luck.
Hey 68 and Grady it has been a minute since i have been on here been a little busy with the big D but i aint forgot about guys........Kauf ......good looking start for sure if you need any help just ask lot of good guys on here will help god knows they helped me with ole Maria.........
OnemanK6......Good to hear from you again! Was hoping you were still kicking and that ole Marie LaVoue didnt have you locked up in the closet with that wild Old Abe bird. Im sure both of us have been thru some crazy times this summer. Can you believe the fires in the Smokies where you were kicking back for awhile? Amazing weather, and now the Alberta Clippers are pouring into your area......brrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!
Hey 68 my ole Virginia friend yea man still kicking here in the freezing cold michigan weather and it aint been ole marie thats had me on lockdown im pretty sure you know what female has me in a closet......and what a hummdinger it has been .there threats of having to sell ole marie so im hoping theres a spell put on someone else i sure dont want to have to do that .....you wouldnt happen to have a 6ft snake i can borrow because i want to scare this one to the other side of the world..........its very nice hearing from you my friend..........take care ole xpac...
yea but i am instructing ole abe not to get married to marie way more fun when you keep it simple hahahaha
hey kauf where in michigan are you im in battle creek michigan
Ole Xpac.....Glad we finally touched-base, as I had sent a couple emails to your old home account, which you probably did not get. Scaring her to the far side of the world, or even the universe, is probably the best way to go......as they can get mean, nasty, ugly, and down right onrwy and full of evil. Hope you can work it out w/o her and the attrnys taking everything....surely someone can knock some sense into her brain to work things out fairly, w/o calling the legal offices of Smith, Wesson, Clint Ltd. (The good, the bad, and the ugly). Thats funny......i guess I told you the story about the 6 foot black snake that scared the **** out of that crazy woman who was trying to force herself into my life.....great memory you have.
I'm in the Saginaw area, we're supposed to get half a foot of snow tonight. I've had machine about 2 months total now... Ok, so step one was new battery. Its a big 12V, but hooked up positive to ground when I got her. ???. So I hooked new up that way for now. starter didn't care which way. she turned over. yea! So I drained and flushed the fuel tank - lots of crap in there. Changed the fuel filters, they were horrible to look at. Opened injector pump - full of gunk, sucked out with big syringe. Changed oil, transmission and rear fluids - lots of water in there (like 2 gallons in the rear). Tried to start - cranked but nothing more, even with ether. So got diesel mechanic friend to look at her...pulled injectors and took them to shop, 2 were bad. Put ATF in cylinders for a week, and with injectors back on....she started. Cleaned and scrubbed to get dirt/algae off her skin. used shop vac gently on radiator to remove years of gunk which worked great. several mouse nests, several hornets nests gone (didn't get stung either). Tried driving her, and yep, she goes, but hi-lo only works in one position (bad woodruff key I'm betting based on this forum), no working gages, got power steering working again, but brakes do nothing, was finally able to drive her 1/2 mile down the road slowly, got her loaded on a trailer and moved to an indoor heated shop for the winter, but 30 minutes from my home Loader moves in all correct directions. Hoe has significant swing cylinder leaks, but otherwise works. Found out she has new clutch, new hydraulic hoses, new tires all put on while previous owner still had her about 5 years ago. Machine starts now with about 1/2 second spray of ether - won't start without it. I am going today to look at a parts-hoe about 30 miles from here, similar serial number. My swing cylinders have gouges in them from (I think) tower bushings being worn and boom cants sideway if bucket on ground loosey-goosey, and tower bumps cylinders (I think). anyway, how much is a parts hoe worth??? - he says it is complete except one stabilizing cylinder missing. bird on front missing for now it has a generator, but not doing anything despite being taken apart and cleaned...thinking change to alternator. engine runs smooth, not much smoke but lots of blow-by...so....lots to do...
Kaufmath.....Wow, sounds alot like mine before I began restoring her last year. HEre is a quick Youtube video of my 68 CK starting and running......a cold start. She starts up real easy even on cold days...here is a quick sample: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nStPURFhkTU&t=1s https://youtu.be/nStPURFhkTU If the link does not work, go to youtube and type in "1968 Case 580CK Cold Start"
Ok, quick question. Mine is missing the 'assist cylinder' for lack of a better name that goes on the right side to help lift the loader. How important is this guy?
kaufmath.......Are you talking about the hydraulic cylinder in this picture: The smaller hyd. cylinder on the right side, right behind the longer hyd. cylinder. The experts need to chime in, but I think it helps control the speed that the bucket comes down, or helps balance the load from the right and left main lift cylinders????? Closer look:
kauf.....I would contact Dale at Tractor Stuff in Indianna.......He might have a used one that you could put back on your rig.
yep, that is the one. saw one for sale today. wasn't sure if this was an 'option' or something that came with the machine, or what it does exactly. mine is minus it right now. I'm thinking I should have it on there.
Kauf......Im not praising Tractor Stuff just for the heck of it......many of us on here have found him to be the best around, and he usually can find something at a fantastic price, and takes the time to answer any questions you might have about these old machines. I tell you, not many like him around anymore. Here is his number: Tractor Stuff (800)428-8183 Dale Weiss.
i'll call him up, thanks for the info. another question. I want to start working on the cylinders that leak. anyone have success with the otc-1266 gland nut wrench? is that one size all you need, or do you need the smaller one too (otc-7463) for any of the cylinders on a 580ck?? better than using a pipe wrench?
Thats all you will need for your cylinders. But, don't pay the absurd price OTC gets for their wrench. There are cheaper alternatives for half the price. like this one -----> http://www.ebay.com/itm/WR-9260-ADJ...GHlaZm7gI9mHxOj4EFQ&item=201222927992&vxp=mtr
Yea kauf I think that cylinder it what's called a load leveler cylindet...and although I don't remember exactly what it does there is a thread on here started by juskatla and I know we talked about that cylinder....do a search for juskatla it's a really good thread to......go with the gland nut wrench on eBay it will do what you need it to you don't really need the small one....and here's. A major thumbs up for Dale at tractor stuff just awesome to deal with you will be glad you did. .
Kauf, 1man is right on that it is the load leveling cylinder. Mine has been off for years. In short, the transfer of hydraulic fluid through the leveling cylinder keeps the bucket floor level as you raise the loader arms and helps prevent you dropping that log or boulder into your lap when it gets high enough. I intend to put mine back on along with all new hoses but you can work the loader without it. Somewhere on here we did some discussion on the issues with the load leveling cylinder contributing to the damage of the bearing area at the top of the loader frame where the arms attach. It is also suspected of being involved with the common break in the right side loader arm just below the cross piece. This are is plated up on many, including mine. The experts consider all this damage is a result of inexperience in operation and design issues resolved in later models. My 68 Case Project thread is stalled for now but I'm getting back into it and will continue to post pictures and update my findings. If you want to share your efforts with all of us, consider starting another thread for your work, so that others can easily find and benefit from your experience. Above all, have fun as this is a learning experience for a lot of us, supported by the pros who mad this these machine their life's work.
Hey xpack, Good to hear from you again. I was pining for the good ole days when you and '68 had us all cracking up with your wild tales of suggestive debauchery between Abe and Marie. it's the kind of thing you can't script - it just sorta happened and it was funny as hell. Glad you're back. We got a half a foot of snow last night. I tried to put the block heater in the "C" since I finally got the plug out of the block but the heater wouldn't screw in because the thick layer of hard sediment in the passage way wouldn't allow the heating element to turn in the hole. I knocked some chunks of it out and went down and got a 3/8 NPT tap to chase the threads and some heavy duty thread sealant so wish me luck. kaufmath, As far as that load leveling cylinder, my CK has it and I've never had any problems with the loader arms. My "C" and "K" have both had the loader arms welded before I got them but neither of them has that cylinder so that wasn't the cause. I also think that any damage is more likely related to inexperience and abuse. I'd put one on if it was mine. I've seen a couple parts machines in the past couple years around here for sale in the 1 to 2K range. They didn't run and had been sitting for a long time. You can offer to sell any parts you don't need if you get one.
Grady......Yea man.....Xpac is back, and that means more little blue pills, more Miller brewskies, more lit Camels, and that Chrome Bird popping them, chugging them, smokin them, and having a free-for-all in Xpac's shop.......that Marie LaVoue will be chasing that bird around with a broomstick, putting a curse on him most likely. Youre right about a used Case parts tractor......wish I could find one for a couple hundred bucks to scavenge as needed. Good luck getting the block heater in....I tell ya, on frigid days, letting the ole lady warm up a few hours is the same as us having a good hot cup of coffee in the morning before we head out......a must.
ok, sorry for the delay guys. it takes me quite some time to get even small things done on the machine since it is located 20 miles away. questions for the experts: 1) What kind of tool do you need to remove the rear right 'nut' on the hi-lo shifter plate assembly on the 580ck. here are two picture of it from 1968's collection from another thread, but even the parts manual doesn't identify what kind of 'nut' this is. like a torx? anyone know? the one next to the dipstick hole, the red-dipstick in the 2nd picture below. its not a standard nut. trying to remove this plate to replace the woodruff key. View attachment 163094 View attachment 163097 2) What kind of fluid is supposed to be in each of these areas? ATF/Hydraulic fluid on the left I'm guessing and 80-90 on the right? (photo credit to Dwight and thanks) View attachment 163096 3) which is 'hi'. lever up or lever down?
Not sure what the problem is but attached pictures are not showing making it hard to give an answer.
questions for the experts: 1) What kind of tool do you need to remove the rear right 'nut' on the hi-lo shifter plate assembly on the 580ck. here is a picture of it from '1968's' collection from another thread, but even the parts manual doesn't identify what kind of 'nut' this is. like a torx? anyone know? the one right next to the dipstick hole, indicated by the arrow in the picture below. its not a standard nut. I am trying to remove this plate to replace the woodruff key. 2) What kind of fluid is supposed to be in each of these areas? ATF/TCH fluid on the left I'm guessing, and 80-90 on the right? (photo credit to Dwight and thanks) 3) which is 'hi'. HI/LO lever up or HI/LO lever down? Mine will only move the tractor in the up position currently, but I'm not sure which I'm getting.
Kauf.......Yep, I remember that wierd nut on the Hi/Lo cover, and at first I thought someone had lost the original one and just thrown in something they had laying around. But later I found out that this is the correct Case bolt for that one particular hole. At the time I was working on my CK, I realized why they used it, but I cant quite remember the reason now.....maybe it was to keep the bolt away from the red dipstick top so it would not be in the way of a wrench? If my memory is correct, I think it took a 12pt 1/2 or 7/16 socket, but not totally sure: Here is a pic when I had the cover off......the hole in question is the lower right, beside the large dipstick hole:
Kauf......The correct fluids: In this pic, you see 2 covers off, and a part of the 3rd cover to the right (which the seat post is bolted to). Here is a pic of the 3rd cover opened up when I flushed it clean and added fresh 80/90 wt rear end oil: So, this is what I recall as to what fluid goes into each one (and please correct me if I am wrong):: 3rd Chamber (all the way to the back of tractor): This takes 80/90Wt gear oil 2nd Chamber (4 speed tranny): This takes 80/90Wt gear oil 1st Chamber (Hi/Lo Range. Is this also called "Torque Tube?"): This takes Case TCH fluid (hydraulic fluid) Note: There is another Chamber in front of these three. Here is a pic: I guess this is called the "Torque Converter?" This also takes TCH or hydraulic fluid. Let me know if I am wrong on the above fluids.
Kauf, On mine, low range is lever up or forward and hi range is lever down.
I checked the mysterious bolt on the Hi/Lo cover, and it takes a 12 point 3/8" socket.