I just purchased a 1970 Case 580CK TBL. The previous owner completely gutted the wiring for the instrument panel and lights, except for the fuel gauge. I'm looking for an inexpensive temperature gauge, oil pressure gauge, amp meter, and ignition switch. But the parts that I've found on Ebay don't reference the 580CK and the dealer parts are way too expensive. Does anyone know where I can get these parts? I'm particularly interested in finding an oil pressure gauge that is compatible with this tractor. It is a 188 diesel with a standard clutch. Thanks, Ed
Throw some Autometer or AEM gauges in there or at least give it a try. I don't see a reason why an aftermarket gauge like those wouldn't work on it. You could use a piece of aluminum to mount them in the stock location.
The generic gauge packages you see at auto parts stores will work; you need to match up or buy adapters to get the sensing end to fit in your beast. They seem to have standardized on the 2" gauge diameter. You have a choice of all electrical senders, or the mechanical ones that actually bring the oil up to the gauge or the hot water too. Electric tends to be cheaper than mechanical. Unless you get top line stuff like VDO or Stewart-Warner, check into those first to get a feel for what the best costs. Get a voltage gauge instead of an ammeter. The ammeter requires you to run a 10ga wire from the alternator, thru the ammeter, and then over to the battery. Ideally you want that wire to be as short and have the fewest connections possible. The volt meter you can tap into a wire that has full battery voltage, lots easier. You'll learn a lot about various thread forms when you start messing with water and oil ports on the engine. If you can pull off the engine what you already have, use that at the store to match up what will work thread diameter wise from what options they have.
Thanks for your help. I decided to go with gauges from an auto parts store and will be using a volt meter and mechanical senders. I tested my original fuel gauge and it seems to work, so I ordered a new sending unit online. Now I'm working on the wiring (gauge, fuses, connections, etc.). It doesn't look to difficult, but it's all new to me!
i own the same tlb but mine is power shuttle when i got it there were auto gauges amp,water,engine oil pressure and they work fine . the fuel and trans pressure are original and work now so you will be fine with the auto gauges. I know the fuel gauge and sender have to match in order to work i read that on a post on here this is a awesome sight these guys really try to help i know i have learnt a lot just reading the differentpost and asking questions anyway good luck
ebath......Howdy. I have posted alot of pics and info. on the restoration of my 1968 580CK, including one on removing the dash and installing gauges......which may be of help to you. Here are a couple pics: You probably see the push-button switch on the right hand side, to the right of the ignition key. This is my new air pre-heater switch as I prefer to push it when I need to pre-heat the air intake, instead of turning the key to the left. The blue and green toggles were put in existing holes (I think where dash lights used to be), and now operate flasher lights and the overhead flood lights. Below you can see that I put a new oil pressure gauge up under the left hand side of the dash.....there was already a screw hole that I could use, and it fit perfectly there. I kept the original oil-fed gauge up in the dash, and just wanted a new one working to see how accurate the old one was......it was reading a bit high. I have a ton of pics of the entire dash removal/redo process.....let me know if you have any questions that could help you in your work. Dwight
Thanks Dwight, I think I have the gauges figured out, but I'm not sure how to wire the ignition. I bought a universal ignition switch to replace the existing push button starter. So, I need to wire the ignition to the starter and the gear selector and I don't know which terminals to connect together. Here's and image. Any help is appreciated. Ed
I have a 188 diesel in my 530 ag tractor and it runs near 75 lbs oil pressure cold idling and the same when hot at just above an idle, this has been my experience with those engines over many engines and many years, I would buy an oil pressure gage of at least 80 PSI or 100 just to be safe. I have heard of people trying to chase what they thought was a high pressure problem on a perfectly good engine. They run high oil pressure!!!!
Ed......Before I did my restoration, the Gear Shift switch had been bypassed so the operater did not have to always reach down and put the shifter into "S" before starting. I wired it back the way it is supposed to be, but already am finding it a bit annoying to always have to mess with the tranny just to crank her up, and then have to reach down again and put her back into the gear she was just in. So, I may end up bypassing that switch again, in the pic for those who dont know which one: (switch is right in front of the gear shifter base, and has two wires running to it) If you want to bypass this switch, just tie the two wires together, and it will think that the tranny is in "S"/Start position. If you are going to put a standard starter key switch in, are you going to leave the air intake warmer element unhooked? The key is supposed to send juice to the intake heater when the key is turned to the left. Not sure if your standard key switch you plan to put in has a left position. Also, I think the wire running from the key to the air intake heater is larger (maybe #12 or 10) since it draws more juice than the others......so, make sure the key switch will cover that load. I just mounted a 30 amp push button switch to the right side of the dash instead of using the key switch. Regarding the key switch, is the original one totally worn out? I found that the original on my tractor was still in great shape....just cleaning it up, cleaning the terminals, and some wd40 on the inside, and all was good. Also, the Push Button was still in great shape too......the rubber boot was worn and cracked, but underneath the chrome button was perfect....so, I just re-used this 50 year old switch. But I imagine the wiring would still be the same as the wiring diagram in the Case manual.......you are just deleting the push button switch, and that wire would be running to the new switch contact that is the far right position of the new switch. I assume this is the far right position with the spring load that forces the switch back one click when you release it. So, in your diagram, Im guessing that the grey colored Ignition terminal is where the wire from the solenoid connects to your switch. Im not sure what "ST" stands for in the diagram......is that Ground? Now Im confused too.......... Do you have the Case Manual and wiring diagram to help?
Yep, Melben is right. My original Case Oil Pressure Gauge was reading up near 80 psi, and it is an actual oil line running from the engine to the gauge. I was concerned that the oil galleries were getting clogged and that was causing the pressure to read high. So, I took the valve cover off and watched as the engine was running, and she was pumping a decent supply of oil up through the galleries and to the top of the rockers.....so, I dont think there is any clogging going on. Just normal high pressure. I also bought a new Oil Pressure Gauge and installed it under the dash, and it also reads around 70-75 when the Case gauge reads close to 80.
Dwight, I'll probably bypass the Gear Switch Shift since I find it annoying too. The original key switch was removed, so there is only a push button start. I'd like to install a key switch so I can run a separate Accessory circuit. I have the Case parts manual and service manual, but they show all the wires running to two wiring harnesses. They don't show the connections from the harnesses to the solenoid, battery, or lights. Ed
Ed......because I had a big mess with my wires too, I had to do a continuity test on each wire to make sure where it went. Using tape to mark each wire was critical, and lessened the amount of hair I was pulling out. Here is the back side of the original key switch....it has 3 lugs. As I recall, the left notch was supposed to be for the air intake heater, the middle was "off", and the right click was the ignition and sent power to the starter switch.
Dwight, I probably won't be using the manifold heater (because a new sender is so expensive) but I do have a block heater attached that connects directly to 120 volt. I don't have a multi-meter. Can you recommend a brand/model to buy? Ed
Ed.......For this use, you could just go to Harbor Freight and get a cheap $5 meter. I found that it was helpful to use an alligator clip and a few feet of wire when testing each wire for continuity. Just clip the gator clip to a wire under the dash area, and then route along the tractor to say the solenoid area, and then use the meter to check that wire. Then, tape each end and mark so you dont forgot.......its so easy to get those wires crossed, especially when they have all been painted yellow, or faded over the years. Block heater......good job. I just installed one, and managed to do it without removing the fuel filters.
Please do not disconnect the neutral start feature on the gearshift. I had a friend and classmate killed by a Case forklift. The feature that assures the transmission is out of gear at startup is invaluable, I am getting a 530 AG tractor ready for use that has the same system and the first order of business was to renew that feature to operation. In my opinion disabling safety features, especially neutral start is very foolish, I'm surprised others have not pointed it out as well.
Melben......Sorry to hear of the terrible accident in the past. You are right.....the safety is worth MUCH more than the 2 seconds I save by not shifting to "S" before starting.....I will keep it hooked up. I guess its too easy for someone to stand beside the tractor and try to start it, and then the tractor takes off and runs over someone. Sorry for making negative comments about the safety feature.
I'm having absolutely no luck wiring the starter circuit. Mainly because I don't have a clue as to what I'm doing! Somehow, I need to go from the battery to the starter, then to the alternator, and then wire in the keyed starter switch, and then the neutral safety switch. But I have no idea which poles to connect to on each device. The key switch has 5 poles, the starter has several, the alternator has several, and the neutral safety switch has two. I do have the parts manual, but it just shows the wires dead-ending into wiring harnesses. Is there somewhere that I can get a wiring diagram that actually shows how the wires connect? Thanks, Ed
Ed im not sure if this will help you or not.But i will try heres how i would wire it, 1) run the positive cable from positive on battery to big terminal on starter solenoid 2) find the (s) or start position on the ignition switch and hook one wire on this terminal, hook the other end to one of the neutral safety switch terminals it dont matter which one 3)hook a different wire to the other terminal on the neutral safety switch, and hook the other end to the small terminal on the starter solenoid i think it is the terminal closest to the engine block. Make sure you have power hooked to your ignition switch to do this you will need a wire from the positive side of the battery to the (b) battery terminal on the ignition switch . once you get this hooked up we will need more info on alternator to help with that its not that difficult i hope this helps
ebath......Well, sounds like you need to concentrate on just the key switch/starter button first.....get that right, and then go to the gauges. You have a digital camera and able to post some pics of the new switch you are using? Also, a pic of the starter/solenoid and the voltage regulator? And do you have the dash off, or trying to wire with the dash in place? Once we see the switch, and the terminals on the back, maybe we can help direct what wires go to the terminals.
Thanks, I have the dash off. Here are some pics...
Well, those pictures didn't work. Let's try again. Ed
Hey Ed i would wire it up the way i explained it in prior post then see if the starter turns it over.At this point i would concentrate on the starter circuit then go to the charging system and to be honest with you that looks like a really old alternator with a external regulator and what i see a lot of people doing with these is installing one of the one wire gm alternators it is a lot more reliable than the old ones and most starter/alternator rebuild stock these for about $100.00 or go to a auto junkyard get a 2 wire gm alternator and there is a fairly straight forward way to wire this up or you can take the 2 wire to a starter/alternator shop and they can make it a 1 wire.There is probably someone on here who knows your alt but i havnt dealt with one like that,Mine is the 2 wire with the built in regulator and wasnt charging when i got it as it was wired wrong i have since corrected it and it works great. when your wiring the starter system like we talked about make sure you have a ground from battery to the transmission,engine,ect and make sure your starter is getting ground.Let us know if this works for the starter.
Tomorrow i will get you a pic of my alt and give you an little description of what im talking about
Ed....I think I still have the old generator on my CK, and the voltage regulator is mounted under the fuel tank. Your new switch appears to have 3 terminals on the outside, and one in the middle. The lower left terminal is a hot from the battery (or it might be coming from the solenoid). The upper timinal "ACC" would be to supply power to your gauges. The "IG" would be the wire that allows power to flow to the solenoid and other ignition systems. (let others explain this better) The middle one "ST"......would that be the wire that runs to the solenoid and tells the starter to spin? Someone else can give you a better explanation, but this is what comes to my head right now. Did you get a chance to put tape on the wire ends and use a meter to verify both ends of the wires? That really helped me to prevent getting wires crosses. You may want to just run the wires to the new switch and test everything before mounting it up in the dash.
The wire to the neutral start switch from the ign switch should be hooked to the IGN terminal so it is hot when the switch is on, If it were hooked to the st terminal it would require both the ign and the ns switches to be used together to start it. If the ns switch is inoperable , there are shim washers under it that MAY bring it back to life , try removing one or two, this can be done with a continuity tester. If the old prestolite alternator is being used the exciter wire from the dash lite goes on the small nut with the other wire from the regulator. I believe the factory light had a 75 ohm resistor strapped across it as well. The other wire from the neutral start switch goes straight to the small inside terminal on the solenoid.
Here is the one of the gm alts i spoke about
Thanks to everyone for their help, I now have a lot of information to digest! My son is an auto tech who has a multi-meter so we are going to test the connections as soon as our schedules align. I think we'll try "xpackdeals" wiring suggestion first. Once we get it started, then we'l proceed to the charging circuit and then the gauges. Since the original alternator still works, I'd like to continue using it for now. Thanks again. I hope to report some progress soon... Ed
ebath im sure it will work this way to get you started but i would question melben some more about what he is talking about with the neutral switch hooking to the ign terminal.I understand what he is saying about not going threw both switches im just not sure how to wire it exactly the way he is talking about.He would be the one who could break this down for you he is very smart on these tractors.I hope to see you got her going and i would also do as 68case says leave everything hanging until you have it all working the way it should then install everything.any how let us know.
OP, if you find an online schematic for a late 60's GM car or truck with an automatic transmission, follow the wiring for that on your hoe. It'll have the battery, neutral safety switch, ignition switch, solenoid and starter, just what you need to wire yours. Even the alternator will be in there...
My tractor now starts using the "xpackdeals method" !!! The neutral switch, ignition switch, battery, and starter solenoid are all connected. But nothing else. One small problem is that I must turn the ignition key manually back from the Start position or the starter keeps turning. I may need to find a switch that springs back automatically. Now, I guess it's on to the alternator so I have a charging system. Does anyone have any ideas on this? Thanks, Ed
ebath, The wire that you have connected to the start terminal of the switch should be hooked to the IGN post on the switch, the way you have it now the start position on the ignition switch must be used in conjunction with the neutral start switch. The starter should be activated only by the gearshift lever movement. On my 530 I used the start post for the engine pre heaters as the preheat post was dead on my switch. Please advise us as to what alternator you are choosing and we can tell you how to get it wired. The 10SI Delco is the most popular and will mount ok and wiring is so simple a cave man can do it !!! It can be set up as a 1 wire alternator but an excitation circuit is easy and better for low rpm excitation.
Thanks melben, I don't understand your comment that "The starter should be activated only by the gearshift lever movement." I'd like the starter to be activated by depressing the clutch, putting the gearshift in "S", and turning the key in the ignition switch. Can you help me understand? I'd like to use the alternator that is already on it: Prestolite ALK7314. I believe it is original and it is supposed to work.
ebath......I think what Melben is saying is that the safety switch that allows the juice to flow when the gear shift is in "S" is the only switch that should be necessary to allow the starter to turn........that is, the "S" safety switch and the push button starter button are "gates" between the battery juice and the starter motor. (Actually on mine, I also must turn the key switch to the right position, and then push the starter button). I agree with you......I like to push the clutch down before engaging the starter.....not sure if doing this reduces the weight on the flywheel and puts less strain on the starter?
It sounds like ebath is trying to wire this up without using the separate push button switch to engage the starter but by using just the ignition switch only.And im sure it can be done without having the power thats needed to feed the starter solenoid feeding threw the neutral switch im just not sure how to do it.But im trying to understand how to wire this like this and one thing is for sure ebath you will need a ignition switch that returns to the on position as soon as you let go of the key you dont want a switch that stays in the start position until you turn the key back. I am not familiar with you alternator but i do know the older charging systems were not as reliable as the alternators that have the regulators built in i had did a old farmall cub a while back and wanted to keep it original and lets just say if i would of just put in a 1 wire alt it wold have been cheaper and way more reliable for that application i wanted original but for my backhoe i wouldnt do anything but the 1 wire or 2 wire to eliminate the external regulator if there like the old ones it seems like they always fail right when you need them. My neighbors 580b had a 2 wire gm alt on it that wasnt charging we took it to a local starter rebuild shop and they rebuilt it and added something to make it a one wire alt and for a complete rebuild and to convert it to a 1 wire it was only $35.00.With the 1 wire all you need is just that 1 hot wire running to the nutted terminal on the back of the alt.and of course ground which you get from mounts.I think you would be very glad you did this if you want reliability and easy to hookup .Unless you just want originality
xpack/ebath.......I have the original generator on mine, and it has those small oil ports on each end. The regulator is mounted close to the fuel tank. If you change over to a new style, you will greatly miss flipping up those miniature spring tops and putting a few drops of oil on each end of the genny. Mine genny also has the tachometer gauge mounted to the back of it.......when you swap out to a new style, where do you mount the tack cable?
ebath, I do not understand your confusion on the post where I said "the starter should be activated only by the gearshift lever movement" The neutral start switch is a momentary switch designed to be the main start switch, the lever does not have a position it locks in for start, you push against a spring when using the gear lever to activate the NS switch, having to do multiple functions to start the engine is redundant. AS I previously stated, YOU DISCONNECT A VITAL SAFETY FEATURE AT UR OWN RISK IF THE STARTER CAN BE ENGAGED OTHER THAN BY THE START POSITION ON THE GEARSHIFT. Voltage should go directly from the IGN post on the IGN switch to a terminal on the NS, and then from the other terminal of the NS directly to the solenoid. However, If you desire for some reason to have to do two or three things at once, for me personally, turning the IGN on and activating the NS via the gearshift lever is easy. A push button was not ever used and was probably installed to bypass the NS. If using a nonstandard switch without a preheat function the push button could used to activate that solenoid. I am sorry if my original post was not clear enough. If the original Prestolite alternator is functional the exciter wire fastens to the terminal with the wire coming from the regulator and the big terminal either directly to the Battery terminal on the starter or back to the dash if an ammeter is used then from the ammeter back to the Battery wire. The energizer wire from the IGN terminal on the switch would have a warning light in the wire that mounts in the dash and voltage goes through the bulb to the little terminal of the alternator. In a factory setup the bulb wire and socket assembly would have a 75 OHM resistor strapped across the bulb to keep the charging system functional in case of bulb failure. Personally, unless originality is paramount to you I would simplify the system by doing away with the ammeter and using a voltmeter in its place, the voltmeter is just as telling as to system performance and eliminates a heavy wire to and from the gage, a voltmeter is a very low current draw and simply goes from IGN terminal to a good ground. With a voltmeter you can tell that the system is working by seeing if the voltage stays in the 14 V range with all the loads applied. It may be of some interest to you guys to go over to YTMAG site and access the CaseDB forum, there is a fellow creating dashes with individual gages instead of a cluster and they look very nice. 580CK, In most instances the bushing seized in the tachs and people very seldom had them repaired, occasionally they could be loosened up and relubed but as time went on and generators were replaced with other gennys without the threaded armature for the small drive or the gearbox pattern in the end plate the tachs became useless. On the CaseDB forum mentioned one of the suppliers has a modern alternator with the generator style tach drive installed but I always wondered about the accuracy as most times a pulley change has to be made to accept the alternator to get the belt tension. Maybe accuracy is not as important than just seeing everything working and that's ok too. I believe in extremely cold weather it may be beneficial to depress the clutch to start because of oil drag in the gearboxes possibly but depressing the clutch pedal causes a force to be applied to the crankshaft thrust bearing is a standard shift and on a PS unit I think there is nothing to be gained. On as standard shuttle just putting the shuttle in neutral will free up the whole drive train but the input shaft. I guess whatever we think works for us.
here is where my tach is hooked up,Im not sure if yours has this on your block or not 68 and i have never dealt with your setup on a tractor this size but i have played with that system on a few smaller ones and they were not as reliable as the conversion to a alt.They might better be on the case 580.
68 Case, your machine will dot have the drive fitted as shown in the pictures. Older machines are driven off the generator and converting to an alternator will require either an aftermarket tach, abandoning that function or coming up with a creative solution in order to mount the alternator and still keep the tach driven off a stripped out/ modified generator drive. A separate pulley for the new alternator could be fabricated. I have the same issue and wanted to get an alternator mounted but have other issues to deal with first...
Melben.......Wow, you covered alot of good details in that last post.......how on earth do you keep all these facts in your head?....maybe you have a super computer upstairs with a ton of RAM memory chips. My genny and tach set up is working fine, and I hope to never have to alter it. Interesting what you said about the tach not being accurate.....I never thought about that. Hey, if the tach stops working, then I know the belt is broken.......thats a nice feature. I oiled the entire cable, top to bottom, and I probably should take the little gearbox apart and put some fresh lube in that too. I had no clue that these 580CKs did not come with a starter push button from the factory......so, the operator just pushed the gearshift lever up into "S" with the key on, and the starter would whirl over.....interesting. My gearshift does kinda lock into the "S" position, so I guess the return spring is shot on it. Depressing the clutch when starting.....as you said, whatever works, and whatever gives our rig good karma to fire up on those cold days.
Xpac.....I found an old pic of the genny/tach set-up. Your tach set-up came later, and is not a part of my engine block. So, looks like I better keep my eyes open for a replacement genny gear box for my tach, just to have on hand. My engine is screaming for some of that case orange paint......on my list to do.
Justatla......Well, my genny/tach are still working....keeping fingers crossed. Melben did mention above that someone had an alternator set up with a drive for the tach cable, for sale on the CaseDB forum. I will have to check out those links. Since we are talking about generators here......here is a pic of how my voltage regulator is mounted. Seems like something is missing, or maybe it is mounted incorrectly?
ebath after reading melbens post i think you are accomplishing what melben is saying as his way is still going threw the neutral switch with power so IT MUST BE IN S POSITION to receive power to the small terminal on the starter to start it. I would leave it as is but put in a ignition switch that returns to the on position on its own that way the power isnt sent to the starter after you let go of the key.I believe the biggest thing is make sure you run this wire threw the neutral safety switch which it should be according to how you said you wired it and like melben has said that switch is a momentary switch which means you dont want to crank your tractor for long periods of time allowing it to overheat. When i start mine i just put it in (S) position and turn the key to crank it over as soon as it starts i let go of the key and it disengages the starter. If you wanted to verify your hooked up safely pull the kill cable so it wont start and put it in gear with you on the seat and bump the starter it shouldnt do anything at all if your wired right then put it in (S) position and try it it should turn over then you know your wired right and your neutral safety switch is working.Im with melben i wouldnt bypass that switch which i dont think you have. I wish i could help you with that alt i just dont know much about it but if you do decide to convert to the gm i could help you there. Take care and i hope you get her figured out.
Oh yea 68 thats different than mine i am with you on that i would keep her going as long as i could until it became a pain then maybe see about that alt with the tach drive.And to be honest the biggest thing that failed on the smaller tractors was the regulators there were just so many things that could go wrong with them and they usually did.
melben, Thanks for your detailed explanation of how the start position on the gearshift works. The reason that I was so confused was that I've driven three different 508ck's and every owner taught me to put the gearshift in "S" first, then turn the key or depress the push button start. Apparently all had been rewired differently than original and the return springs must have quit working (mine has). I'll review all the recent posts in the morning and see if I can make some more progress. The weather is supposed to be beautiful! Ed
Guys, You all got me to thinking about the later Bs so I went back to the parts book and looked the starting circuit up, evidently there was some change between the ag side and ce, the 580 B does indeed have a starter button on the dash and a neutral start circuit switch in the cap, Since you fellows are telling me that the lever does not push against a spring to engage the starter but stays in the start position till pulled out I an only figure that the system was changed from the earlier tractors. I am sorry for any confusion I may have caused by my not being familiar with the change, If your cap does not have a spring loaded start position then wire it up so the Ign switch start position engages the starter but only with the NS switch in circuit and the same can be said for the push button. Again , sorry for the confusion and especially to ebath for causing him confusion. Mel
Melben.....No worries mate......now I am glad that I dont have a failed spring in my gear shifter at the "S" position. Its impossible to retain all the changes Case made year to year in ones head. However, what you said made sense to me, because when I removed the ignition key/starter button from the metal bracket, I noticed that it looked like the starter button hole was not factory made, since it was not a nice smooth circle cut-out, but kinda roughly made. So, I was thinking that the starter button to the right of the key was done later.
Melben thanks for the explanation i was begining to think my 1970 ck had a busted spring as well glad to know mine is normal I have enough to fix/paint/rebuild on mine without the unknown suprises.Thanks again
1968...I also thought my starter button hole was not factory made because it was not a nice, smooth cut. But I reinstalled the push button starter today in conjunction with the key switch and the neutral switch. Now everything works great! I was also able to connect a new volt meter and the old fuel gauge. They both work great too! Next week it will be the charging system, oil pressure gauge, and temperature gauge. Then it's off to the hydraulics guy to replace the seals in the backhoe controller. Ed
Hey Ed i just went to advanced auto today and purchased a temp gauge for my shuttle oil temp which is the same gauge you would use for water temp and it was on sale for like a $1.80 off they are like $16.00 total it is mad by bosch and has everything you need to hook it up they are the mechanical type gauges which are simple only wire you would run is for the backlight if you want that hooked up.they also had the oil pres gauge on sale.Glad to hear your making progress...
ebath........thats funny....maybe Case had someone drilling out that bracket, and thats just the way they came from the factory.....not a smooth punches hole, but a rough drilled one. Hey.....does your fuel tank have a ground terminal on it? Xpac showed a pic of a ground lug under the tank, but I have not been able to find it on mine. If you have the backhoe valve controller off, and only need to replace the seals in the 6 valves, its not that difficult to do. But if you want the hydraulics guy replace "all" the Orings in it, then thats a bigger job. Are you able to send pics of your progress? You have the entire dash removed while doing all this?
1968...I don't see a ground terminal on the fuel tank. Everything seems to be rubber mounted. I sure hope there is a fuel tank ground, because I'm grounding all of the gauges to the fuel tank! Let me now where the ground should be and I'll take another look. I'm going to have my hydraulics guy remove the controller and then determine what needs to be done. I'd like this to be a one time thing and I'm ready to bite the bullet on the cost. I can probably get some pics of my progress, but I couldn't figure out how to easily disconnect the fuel shutoff cable, so I've been rotating the dash around the steering column to redo the wiring. It's made for some interesting contortions and some difficult picture angles. Ed
heres a shot of it ebath they have red tape on them
ED......Yea, the fuel shut off cable was a bit annoying, but I managed to get a wrench up under the dash and loosen the lock nut on the cable, and then unhook it at the injector pump, and then slide the whole cable through the dash and out. Mine was wearing out, and a new one was pretty cheap. Under another thread that Xpac is doing, he shows a pic of his tank and the two "grounding lugs". When I saw the pic, I realized that those two lugs are what the half round tube ( which the electrical wiring runs inside ) bolts to the tank with. Look under your tank, between the ignition key area and the front of the tank, and you should see the half round metal conduit which the wires run inside. So, I can loosen a nut and make a grounding wire to fit on it, and then tighten the nut back on. However, I will double check to make sure that it needs a ground......do a continuity test with volt meter to see if it is already grounded. I cant remember if you said you had taken the backhoe off or not. When you look at my thread with pictures showing me working on the tower, you will see how much easier it is to get the tower assembly off when the tractor is out of the way. I would say it is almost impossible to remove w/o taking the backhoe off.
1968... I did lower the half round tube in order to route the wiring through it. Before I put it back in place, I'll attach a grounding wire. Thanks for the tip. I have not removed the backhoe. I'm going to leave that one to the discretion of my hydraulics guy. Hopefully he will choose the method that results in the lowest labor charge! It's going to be raining and cold here through the weekend so I won't make much progress for the next several days. Ed
Hey Ebath are you paying someone to rebuild your backhoe valves just curious because my neighbors got a 580b and we removed the backhoe then then the valves and sent it in and had it done it cost him $300.00 and from if yours is just leaking i think thats what 68case's was doing and i believe it would be a lot cheaper for you to do it yourself and id doesnt appear to be that bad if you pull the valves off the backhoe and just so you know its not that bad of a job to remove the backhoe as long as you tractor runs i can have mine off in about 30 min..Hows the charging system coming maybe you could post some pics of your progress.
Xpac/Ed.......Well, once we have done the backhoe removal, it doesnt seem that bad. However, having another person to help is almost essential, to help put blocks under the hoe, to help loosen the main hold-down nuts, etc. Also, if those large nuts are on tight and you need more elbow room to get to them, I found having the fenders off was a big help (but not critical). I did a seperate thread on "how to remove the backhoe", which would help if you decide to do it. The other big thing, in my opinion, is to take plenty of pics of the hydraulic lines where they go into the control valves before you remove anything. That way you can always look at the pics if you are confused at putting it back together. Also, you gotta mark the hydrualic lines so you know where to put them later (for me, I used T-1,2,3,4,5,6, and B-1 through 6 for Top row and Bottom row, and went left to right). Maybe the hydraulics guy has done all this before and wont charge an arm and a leg. However, you can save a few coins if you have a buddy and can do this yourself.
1968/xpac, I'd love to rebuild the hydraulics myself so I could save some money and learn something new. But my business is so busy right now that it would be impossible. I'm completely slammed for the foreseeable future! My hydraulics guy is about a mile away and works on most of the agricultural tractors in the area. My neighbors all highly recommended him. Plus, he also welds and I have a couple of welding projects for him. I bought this backhoe to move logs and lumber around my sawmill. Starting in January, I'm going to be getting a lot of trees, so I need to get the backhoe set up with a thumb and some pallet forks very soon. Otherwise, I'm looking at a whole lot of manual labor! Ed
yea you will want forks for sure and i get the time thing to
Ebath.......Yep, makes alot of sense now......have the expert tackle the work, and he can have it done right and done quick. You have much more important work to do. Excellent to hear you have a sawmill. I used to help run my cousin's old-style ***** mill, and I think it had a 4 or 5 foot blade on it. Used a 6 cylinder detroit diesel for power......here is a pic: I hauled alot of large walnut, cherry, and oak logs to this mill, and enjoyed the hard work of making my own lumber.
Great thread. I came across this and it inspired me to looking at my scary dash wiring on my 1971 580ck. Lots of melted wires and it's a bit amazing to me that all my headlights worked with them that way. But it probably explains my battery drain. That's a different story. So I am redoing the dash and have an OIL light on the dash. The wire was melted and not going any where. Where is the oil pressure sending unit that this goes to? I have a water temp above the starter motor but don't see an oil pressure unit?
Overkill.........On my 68CK, I have an oil line that goes straight up to the oil pressure gauge. It is located down under the injector pump on the left side of the tractor engine. Some might have an electric sending unit, but Im not sure.
Thanks, I spent some more time with the flashlight and found it late last night. It is on the left side of the motor under the diesel pump and hidden behind my make shift block heater. Mine has the electric sender for the idiot light. I assume yours uses that some port for an oil line to the gauge for a pressure reading. I have seen some of these tractors with a oil pressure gauge and idiot light. Does yours have both? Where does the oil line that goes to the gauge tie in? Is there a Tee and second sender, or do they make a sender with both? Thanks again for your fast reply. Doug p.s. Your rebuild posts have been a great resource to me and countless others who own these TLB's.
Here is where my oil pressure line comes off the engine. I put a "T" there so I could run both the old Case Oil Pressure Gauge, and a new one.....just to see if the Case gauge was reading right. I cant remember if mine has the idiot light also.....I dont think so. The Idiot light is still there in the dash cluster, and it just stares at me and reminds me that Im an idiot.....haa haaa, heeee-hawwww. :roll
Overkill.....Hey, thanks for saying my posts/pics have been helpful to you and others.......glad to be of some help, as there are many on this site who helped me through some rough areas of the tractor rebuild.
you may not even have a sending unit, mine has an oil line directly to the gauge , probably had a sending unit at one point by this old machine has been through numerous owners and each one rigged it their own way. I am currently re wiring the whole thing , new amp meter, hr meter , volt meter etc. my wires were all burnt as well . If you have a sending unit it will be a small round device with 2 terminals on the top, will be in an oil output area somewhere on the block.
Does anyone know where to look for the location of the engine temperature sensor on a case 580ck? I found the old lead hanging free and cannot locate the port.
On mine it on the right side of the engine (diesel) a little in front of the fuel filters at the bottom of the lower one.
Here’s what I’ve found. It appears as though the previous owner had it attached to a T-pipe and then plugged it. The cable doesn’t reach further than that. Am I correct or should I keep looking?
That is the tachometer cable you are holding, SS. And it doesn't have the core cable protruding from the sheath.
So it’s basically a useless cable then. I’ll open up the gauge panel and see if I can find the cable that leads to the gauge. Thanks T.
I found the serial number on the side of the tractor and it leads me to believe that it is a 1969 model and not a 1970. Can anyone confirm: 8359050
Yes it is, produced mid-year.
I’ve had some time to look for where the engine temperature sensor goes and I’ve found a spot on the right side of the engine block. Can anyone confirm that this is the correct spot? I’ve attached pictures.
Can anyone confirm the brake oil seal part number for a 1969 case 580ck? The one I found is A49796.
anybody know? just purchased a 71 580ck and every gauge is null and void
Welcome to HEF, PW, Impossible to answer a question that describes gauges as null and void. Null and void means cancelled. Could you repost the question in a different way ? Are you saying none of the gauges are functional ??