So I live a couple miles from a gravel pit. I'm trying to get this thing going. I need a lot of gravel. It has a low miles engine replacement from 25 years ago. It runs good. I went to replace the master cylinder because it was missing. The brake line was rusted in half under the cab. So I figured I might as well replace all the brake parts. I can get the wheel cylinders and have the shoes relined if I can't find them. So my issue now is the rear brakes drum I pulled off is shot. The numbers on it say Budd 90908. Google doesn't bring much up. It is a 15 inch drum. Does anyone have a better way to look these up to see if I can find some sitting on the back of some shelf somewhere? Thanks for the help.
I have a 20 year old Webb catalog with cross reference--90908 goes blank or no longer available.
Back in those years Dodge used some Budd drums on some of their trucks and are impossible to find new. I have a ‘70 D300 with Budd drums. I found a scabby used one. The best solution may be to swap a complete axle assembly from a GM or Ford but they will likely not have the Budd wheels. Unfortunately, there probably are not many wreckers that will have a Budd drum for that truck. How bad is your drum?
Really bad. I talked to an industrial brake supply place. They measured everything and found a Webb part number. Which is also not available from what I could find. WEBB #61554f. Maybe someone can find one or 2 of them sitting on the back of a shelf somewhere. Im about to start looking for a different rearend. This is a 2 speed and has like 7.17 and 9.79 gears or something crazy like that. Sounds like I probably won't have much luck getting a 10 lug rear to match. Darn the luck because the rest of the truck is in pretty good useable condition.
Well, I replaced the brake cylinders and am ready to put this thing back together. What is a good procedure to tighten the bearing nuts. I watched some videos and they are all over on how to. So I'm thinking torque to 200 ft lbs. Spin the drum. Torque to 200, spin the drum. Torque to 200 spin the drum. Back the nut off 1 turn then torque to 50 or 100 ft lbs. This is where the videos differ, then back off 1/8 or 1/4 turn then check end play. .001" to .005 " is the goal right. Thanks for the help
With a inner/outer nut type--run inner down to zero, go past roughly 50 lb ft, back off, then back zero, back off 1/8 turn, install locking washers and outer nut torquing to 225 lbft. Which will put it close to zero endplay once outer nut is torqued. If you don't mind replacing wheel seals set it at .005.
I needed a truck but I started off with something more common a 1963 Ford f600 . I then found a couple more I bought for parts. Its been a good deal I did a lot of work on it and use it a lot . I have a newer Chevy that I could pull a dump trailer with . I have thought about buying a dump trailer to get rid of one truck but I am not sure how it would work out or how I would like it. I wish I could rent a trailer to see how I would like it but I guess as long as the Ford is running I will use it.
I had a dump trailer for a while. Never did use it much, because it may be okay for some things but moving a lot of material and wanting to do it reasonably fast, is not what a dump trailer is good for. Good part was after spending a bit of money for steel to fix it up, I sold it for a good profit. Almost enough back to completely pay for the 1998 GMC Topkick 6500 I picked up. Now I can haul my backhoe and haul a good load of gravel, if I need it. Way better keeping that running and moving than a dump trailer. I will admit, dump trailer was handy for moving stuff and such but it offers a poor replacement for a dump truck.
I am using my truck on my own jobs so maybe a dump trailer would be different? I just think getting rid of a truck would help out on expanses and stress.