I'm looking at a International 4300 Transtar tandem axel dump that appears to be in fair shape. However it has not been run for two years. I am near Anchorage, Alaska so winters can be cold, 20-30 below. In looking the truck over when it was 20 above i noticed a coolant colored slurry of ice in the radiator. The batteries are dead so I couldn't try to start it. What is the likelyhood of the block not being cracked with this kind of senario. Does this engine have freeze plugs. What would they look like if the engine has froze solid in the past. What's the best way to tell if that block/head is cracked? Thanks, especially to our senior members who might be familiar with this old engine
Yikes! I'm not an older/more experienced member, but I'll give you my 2 cents anyway. Weak coolant can freeze up softer than pure water, so even if it's solid, it's not creating the pressure that water would. Maybe even more so if it freezes over a longer period of time? the ice crystals form of the purer water and the remaining glycol concentrates in the liquid that's left, sort of an educated guess? Another thing that could have happened is the ice formed at cooler temps and hadn't thawed yet by the time you looked at it. It does sound bad, but the radiator was still holding so most likely the engine hasn't frozen hard enough to crack. The best way to tell is to get it started, warmed up, and pressure test it. I'm not positive I've ever seen a block cracked from freezing, and I've seen plenty of engines overheat from being frozen up, and a few radiators burst.
If it hasn't been run for 2 years, it has been frozen and thawed a few times. If it was broken badly, there would be nothing in the radiator. Pull the dipstick and see if the oil is overfilled or milky. Loosen the drain plug and see how much water comes out before the oil. If you loosen the plug down to the last few threads the water should come out but the oil won't or will ooze out slowly after the water. An oz. or so of water wouldn't be too worrisome, as that could be from condensation. Put a socket on the crankshaft bolt or bar the flywheel over one full turn before you try the starter because if there is water in a cylinder and you turn it with the starter you can destroy the engine. If it won't turn all the way around, pull the injectors and turn it. In reference to your last line, AARP isn't pestering me yet, I guess it won't be long. ?
Mitch, Thanks for the great advice from you and Delmer. The dip stick is not overfilled. I pulled the drain plug and there was no coolant or milkyness. I'm concerned about water in the fuel. Prior owner ran the truck very little and knew nothing about maintanance. I haven't been able to locate maintanance info on this engine. I've found the fuel filter but suprisingly it has no drain for water. Other than draining the tanks and replacing the fuel filter any ideas on getting water out of the fuel system? I'm going to try and crank it up in a few days but it has no block heater so I'll be heating it up with oil pan heating pads and external heaters. Thanks again for the valuable advice. DBS
If there was water in the fuel filter then it would have rusted out by now, leaving a tiny pin hole in the bottom of the filter to suck air as you try to prime it. That's assuming it's a spin on filter mounted threads up, and assuming the former owner didn't keep the tank topped off with ULSD and change the filter before storing it, which he did right??? I wouldn't worry about water contamination at this point, you're in good shape if you can't find water. Bugs, leaves, rust etc. are more likely to plug up the fuel system somewhere before you have to worry about a little water that you can't find now.
It wouldn't hurt to change the fuel filter before trying to start it, because I have seen them get gummed up while sitting, but I wouldn't be worried about it if it is inconvenient. One big plus to changing the filter is that you can fill it up with fresh fuel before putting it on, which may or not help a lot, but it won't hurt. Then the engine will be trying to start on fresh winter fuel. It wouldn't hurt to check the fuel tanks for water that has gotten in while it is sitting, but water that has gotten in while it was parked won't be in the filter. I carry water-finding paste on my service truck that you just put on a stick and dip in the tank. The paste will change color if there is water in it. It's only like $5 for a tube that has enough for a couple hundred uses. If they don't have it in a store there, any oil co should have it and will probably give you enough to check one truck. Alternately, you can take one end of the crossover line loose if this truck has one and drain a little fuel and look at it. I've started these engines that have sat for 2 yrs or longer many times and normally it just takes batteries and a shot of ether, and they wake right up. I would definitely reccommend turning her one turn with a wrench first though, just to be on the safe side. Good Luck, Mitch
Mitch, Thanks again, I've never used ether on a diesel. Do you just spray it into the air intake as you are cranking the engine? Thanks, DBS
That works best, or if you are alone, you can spray it for a second or so, then crank engine. If you spray too much, it can make a knocking sound, or stop the engine from turning, and you have to let it evaporate for a few minutes. I read the back of a can yesterday, (yes, I was bored letting some batteries charge :beatsme ) and it said spray for 3 seconds, then crank, but that seems like a lot.
Found a truck sitting for 6 years, drained fuel and fuel filter, replaced added 5 gallons new diesel, turn over cam once and she fired right up. I think the biggest lesson I learned was turning over the engine once by hand will definitely help A LOT