1977 JD 410 - won't start with the push button. I can start it with a screw driver across the solenoid. Pulled floor plates and dash - checked for loose and worn wires. Looked at the starter and nuet-start switch, wires and plugs seem fine.
The push button itself could be bad or the neutral switch could be bad or out of adjustment. You could test these by using your screwdriver across the terminals technique. Also the starter solenoid could be the problem.
Just be very careful if jumpering around neutral switch to start as you could get it to start while in gear and have it run away on you. DoNOT bypass the neutral switch except for a very breif test. It would be better to use a continuity tester or volt meter to check operation of the switch while still in the system.
Put a voltmeter on the solenoid terminal and a good ground, then activate the start button. If you have full voltage, there is a problem with the solenoid. If there is no voltage there, then start by-passing the transmission neutral switch or other switches in the circuit until you get current to the starter terminal. Do not ignore the warnings already mentioned about getting injured when jumping safety switches !!
I checked and found no voltage at the plug for the push button. So sounds like I should start checking the neutral switch.
When you used the screwdriver on the solenoid, did you go big terminal to big terminal? or big terminal (from battery) to little terminal (from switch)? The first one tells you whether the starter is working, the little terminal tells you the solenoid is working, and if the solenoid works with voltage, then the switch etc. must not be supplying the voltage. Voltage at the push button tells you nothing unless you know the wiring diagram. Check for voltage at the little terminal on the solenoid. Don't run yourself over doing it, use a wire with alligator clips run to your meter.
power feeds push button before going to neutral switch
I have an electrical drawing from a 310 of similar vintage as your 410, so not sure if it is the same, but here is how the 310 is. The source of voltage starts at the Battery with a red wire, goes to the Alternator, Alternator to Circuit Breaker as a red wire, Circuit Breaker to Ignition Switch as a Brown wire, Ignition Switch to Push Button (wire color not noted on drawing), Push Button to Neutral Switch as a black wire, Neutral Switch to Starter Solenoid as a white wire. So if you don't have voltage at your push button, (make sure the ignition switch is in the ON/RUN position) check to see if you have power to your ignition (key) switch.
That's how I've been starting it with the big terminal to the small terminal with a screwdriver. So the solenoid should be good - it has 12.4 volts. I didn't know that the push button feeds the neutral switch. So if I have no volts to the push button then I should check the key switch and a circuit breaker if I can find it. Not sure I've seen a circuit breaker.
Yes, I would check to see if there is voltage at the ignition switch. If there is, turn the key to the on position and check for voltage at the push button.
I have no voltage at the plug with the key in the on position...
I have voltage at the key but none at the push buttons plug with the key in the on position.
It sounds like you have isolated the problem area. I'm guessing something with the key switch. You could confirm this by connecting a jumper wire from the push button switch (the side that comes from the key switch) to the hot wire that feeds the key switch, then push the button. As others here have warned, you need to be sure the machine is in neutral and isn't going to take off on you. Also, you're jumping to a wire that is always hot, be careful not to short anything out.
OK finally got the Hoe in the shop. Yes - the button worked with the jumper from the hot on the ignition switch. I'll play with the wires today to find out if it's only a bad wire.
Plenty of power at key switch but still none at the push button. Are you sure it's "Ignition Switch to Push Button, Push Button to Neutral Switch, Neutral Switch to Starter Solenoid." ? I thought it should be Ignition Switch to Neutral Switch, Neutral Switch to Push Button, Push Button to Starter Solenoid...
No, I'm not sure how it is on a 410. The drawing I'm looking at is for a 310. You will have to physically trace the wires from switch to switch to confirm how it actually is on your hoe. But everything you've described has narrowed the search for the problem down to the ignition switch. You jumped around it and the push button worked. One last test to confirm if the key switch is bad. Find the wire that goes between the key switch and the push button and disconnect it at the ignition switch. Test for voltage at this terminal on the key switch. There should be no voltage when the key is off, and there should be voltage there when the key is on.
good and correct info chroniekon,, why anyone think a MFG would run to neutral switch and back to start button is beyond me? extra wiring would be required for that spider web lol
THANK YOU FOLKS - that did it. Bad plug on the neutral start switch. Probably would have been easier if I knew this switch was under all the deck plates ( damn seat weighs bout 400 lbs ). I thought the switch was the thing on the bottom section of the steering/dash tower that I couldn't reach unless I pull the hood to unbolt the tower. But like someone mentioned earlier, I think it was just a relay. Again I didn't want to pull the tower unless I knew that was where the problem was, and the OHMS meter idea really did help. So I took a good plug off the unused start fluid push button a spliced it on the neutral start switch and now I can start her safely in the cab and don't have to stand between the wheels with a screw drive on the starter while trying to remember if it was still in neutral or not. Thanks again folks - without your help I probably would have ran a hot wire to the push button and bypassed the neutral safety start switch.