So, I had to get the CAT dealer technician to come work on the dozer. Found out the engine isn't the original CAT engine like we thought it was but is using the CAT injector pump. The guy we bought it from said all he did was had the engine rebuilt. The CAT tech said this is a Japanese engine. The engine code on the left side of the engine shows 2W7165X with the letters further over to the left showing UKNDR. I didn't get the information about the engine as my brother was there with the CAT tech and forgot what else he said. The CAT tech though got everything back together and fired up the engine. He says it has a skip on the 3rd cylinder. He said it could be either the injector or the valve. What would be the best way to test this? Compression Tester or what?
What you're looking at is the 2W7165 cylinder head Part Number and the UKNDR Date (of Manufacturing) Code for it which dates it as 1994. All that indicates to me is that the engine in your tractor has had a replacement cylinder head fitted at some point. Not surprising on a tractor that's 40+ years old. It gives no indication whether any other parts of the engine may be original or not. All D3 & D3B tractors were built in Japan so to find a Japanese-built engine in one is I guess not surprising. Is there an engine S/No plate on it anywhere.? What's the tractor S/N.? You were asking about a Service Manual at some time in the past. Did you ever get hold of one.?
There should be an aluminium tag like this one below, on the upper rear of the engine block. The engine serial # starts with 45V. The tractor serial # tag should be on the vertical face of the RHS of the support plate for the dash and gauges, just forward of the grab handle. It's a small aluminium tag as well. This is what the tractor serial # tag should look like, up close.
Ok, no plate but the block has 45V4707. My dozer tag is listed below
That makes sense. The engines listed for D3B 79U-prefix tractors start at 45V17160, so 45V4707 is somewhat older than that. Looks like it is not the original engine after all. The tractor S/N 79U5180 would relate to the 45V19145 engine S/N on the machine data plate. There is no detailed information on engine 45V4707. It simply comes up as a "3204 machine engine" of some sort but no clear idea in what model of machine it might have been orignally installed. Sorry I can't narrow it down further than that.
Well if it's skipping, what is your idea of what the problem could be? It's not smoking from the exhaust. I'm honestly thinking it's the injector.
Engines 45V1-45V17159 are the older PC engines. The head on this one has been changed to DI and yes the injector/s would be a good place to start checking.
Shop that did my 3204 said they have never had any issues between US and Japanes engines and most components are interchangeable.
I can't seem the find injectors for it online. I've put my engine code and the type of engine in and those injectors look different. What's a good way to test the injectors and valve? Compression kit and a fuel pressure kit?
I missed this before, my apologies. The 2W-7165 Cylinder Head on your engine is from an 03Z-prefix 3208 engine. Does the illustration below (ignore the fact that it's got 8 cytlinders for now) look like the injectors in your engine.?
I would have thought that the injectors would need to go to a specialist fuel injection shop to be tested. You could likely get a pressure gauge and an adapter that would fit into the bore where the fuel injector fits to test compression.
An engine leakdown test is more effective than a compression test. Cat don't ever give compression pressure numbers.
No, the injectors look like it goes to a 90° and then connects to the fuel line. Picture below showing this
What's the best thing for using that? Something like this? https://www.harborfreight.com/cylinder-leak-down-tester-64918.html
Have you done an engine valve adjustment check yet.? That would be one of the simplest things to do for a start.
What you're looking at is outside the valve cover. Have you removed it and looked inside.? In the illustration below #3 is the elbow in your photo, everything in the rectangle is out of sight underneath the valve cover.
Here's a link to a Service Manual in case you haven't got one already. It's priced at less than half the cost of a new one. https://www.ebay.com/p/1863338617
Your motor is a bit different but post 90 shows mine under the cover HeavyEquipmentForums
The Harborfreight leakdown tester is adequate, but it's designed for small gas engines in autos. A better unit is this diesel engine leakdown tester (below) which includes adaptors for a range of diesel engines. It includes adaptors for the 1100 series and 3208 V8 engines. The 3204 engine is basically one-half of a 1100 series or 3208 engine. https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W89729-Leak-Down-Compression/dp/B00AMPQCJQ?th=1
And I just hook this up to the injector while the dozer is running to check the valve and injector output?
No Remove injectors, then rotate cylinder to be tested to TDC. Attach Tester to injector port and apply air pressure. The gauge will measure how much air is leaking past the closed valves and rings. 5 to 10% is great, more then that there is an issue. The tester will have instructions
Nige suggested checking valve clearances too. I would do this: 1) pull valve covers and adjust valves, and do the leakdown tests at the same time. 2) have the injectors bench tested while they are out. 3) If it is tight and the injectors are right, then it's the pump.
If it’s a pronounced skip but u can’t narrow it down.. Start the engine.. Loosening an injector line at the head should help u narrow it down. The faulty hole won’t make a serious change in engine sound. Good luck.
The tech took off the third injector and the engine smooth out. That's why I am thinking it's an injector versus a valve
Not necessarily. If a valve or valves on a particular cylinder are leaking for whatever reason the firing on that cylinder is going to be bad whether the injector is working correctly or not. Loosening an injector line only identifies the cylinder, not what's actually going on inside it. I still suggest that you should run a valve set before proceeding further. If it does fix the problem it will be at very low cost and you're happy. If it doesn't you've lost nothing but have eliminated one possibility of what the problem could be. I can't get my head round people who go straight for the most complicated & expensive fixes without first eliminating the easy stuff.
If u can afford it, change all of them.. Another thing.. cat didn’t make the injectors.. Stanadyne did.. Pull the faulty one and look where the inlet tube meet the body.. there should be a 5 digit number stamped into it.. you’ll probably been to wire wheel it .. U might get a better price than going thru cat..
Nige is correct..(as usual)
What's the valve lash for these engines? I'm seeing "The intake valves set to 0.015 thousanths. The exhaust valves are set to 0.025 thousanths."
Correct.
I haven't gotten around to it yet, but do I need to open the TC 1 hole up on the bellhousing and put a bolt into the flywheel to get top dead center on the number 1 cylinder? If so, it doesn't matter what stroke I am on?
Personally I’d roll the engine over in the direction of rotation until the inlet & exhaust valves were both partially open on one cylinder (one is opening, the other closing) then set the valves on the mating cylinder. So if the valves are rocking on #3 you set the clearances on #2, etc, etc.
Been busy, but saw a tool that goes in place of the starter to the the flywheel. Do I need that tool or can I turn it by the crank
Depends on how hard u wanna work.. And if they want an arm and a leg for it.. I won’t touch a Cummins without that tool..(30.00)
Well, I got the flywheel tool in. Started taking the valve cover and other parts off. For some reason there is moisture on the camshaft near the rear. I'm not sure why there is. You can see some milky colored water. The oil in the oil pan is fine and non-milky colored. What do yall think?
Check your oil pan to see whether it is pressed metal or a cast iron pan. If the pan is pressed metal, dirt buildup holds moisture against the pan, and then this causes pinholes in the sheet metal, allowing water to enter the pan when the tractor is shut down. I have this problem with my 931B that I'm restoring - the pinholes were so bad, I couldn't even braze them up. Every time I brazed one up, another 3 would appear. I ended up having to cut the entire bottom off the pan and fabricate a new temporary pan bottom, and braze it in place, so I could fire it up. I've purchased a good used cast iron pan to fit to the engine, but I have to pull the engine out to fit it. I have to pull the engine out anyway, as I found 2 pieces of piston skirt in the bottom of the pan! Despite that, the engine runs great, but I know it needs to be torn down, because that one piston is obviously coming apart. The alternative is that you have a leaking head gasket, thus allowing coolant into the oil. An analysis of your engine oil should show the presence of coolant, if the coolant still has antifreeze in it. Otherwise, if no antifreeze shows up in an oil analysis, then that is just plain water that is getting in somewhere.
The shop that did my engine found a used cast iron oil pan to replace the stamped pan that had a root go through it. Root went in the hole in the belly pan for the oil drain. They had to cut some bolts shorter because the cast iron pan used non standard length bolts. Not a real big deal but weird they required special length bolts. I made a cover for the drain plug hole in the belly pan.
You guys have had some strange weather in your area latley...very cold temps at times then warm again...condensation? I live in central Maine, it's not uncommon to find some condensation under the oil fill cap and such at various times of the year due I believe, to warm to cold to warm temp swings.