I am working on an 83' case 580d that has a new injection pump. It is not getting fuel to any of the injectors. I have timed up the injector pump twice just to ensure that it was timed properly but still no fuel. Spraying starting fluid in it will make it crank up and run as long as you are spraying it in there. The owner stated that it originally was running and just shut off and would not start up. Another person said the problem was the pump and they bought a new one. I installed it but I am still getting not fuel. When i remove the fuel lines fuel is barely squirting out of the pump. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks everyone.
Welcome to HEF @silent_death84 ! The 580D has an electric fuel shut off. You have 12V at the wire to the pump cover? Does it have power while cranking the engine? There is a good supply of fuel from tank to the pump?
Start at the tank, work your way through the transfer pump and filter, to the injection pump. I don't know Case, but in general it's not unusual to have a screen in the tank, and if there's no screen it's not unusual to get some junk stuck in a bad spot in the fuel supply line blocking the flow. Have you bled the injection pump? how about the lines to the injectors? If you have good fuel supply to the injection pump, and it's "barely squirting" out of the INJECTION pump, then connect the lines and loosen them at the injectors until there is no more air coming out, only fuel. Then it will run if it's timed right, etc. The timing doesn't matter to the fuel coming out, it just won't start or run if the timing's off too much.
alrman - I do have 12 volts to the fuel shut off while cranking and it has a good fuel supply to the pump. Delmer - I have bled the injection pump and I will try bleeding the lines again next week when I get back over there.
If the pump has been sitting around for a while, the internal linkages or metering valve could be sticking, not allowing fuel. @thepumpguysc is the guru for this type of problem, he should chime in soon..... Is this a Roosamaster or Stanadyne pump? He'll want to know.
stanadyne pump and it was just put on less than a month ago.
Remove the fitting from the top of the pump, the ENTIRE FITTING, right down to the alum. cover. that's the return fuel. Loosen the line going into the back of the pump, that's your inlet fuel, and crank the motor. The fuel SHOULD BE squirting out of the rear fitting going into the back.. IF NOT, you have a bad supply/lift pump or a clog somewhere from the tank TO THE inj. pump.. IF you have fuel, tighten the line back up.. MAKE SURE you have 12volts at the solenoid on top of the pump..or 10v or better.. There are sensors that will cut off the voltage while cranking SO MAKE SURE you have voltage WHILE CRANKING.. Loosen ALL the lines AT THE INJECTORS and crank the engine.. fuel should be squirting out.. if so, tighten them back up.. Once you have fuel AT THE INJ. LINES.. the motor should start.. Once its started, screw the fitting back in the top of the pump, WHILE ITS RUNNING.. IF it stays running, GOOD.. IF it stops, you have a restriction in the line going back to the tank.. OR your fitting in the top of the pump is clogged.. Good luck & let us know how it worked out.. BTW> Did you put the pump on?? How did you time it?? Was the pump drive shaft still in the engine when the new pump was installed or did it come w/ a new dr.sh.??
Thank you thepumpguysc, I will try that and then I will get back to you on the outcome. I really appreciate the help. I did put the pump on for him and when they removed it they removed the whole shaft from the pump. When I timed it up I lined up the dots on the cam gear with the pointer on the idler gear (making sure it was at tdc by the sight hole behind the starter), then I removed the cover to the timing window on the pump and made sure the timing marks were lined on it, then before I inserted the shaft I made sure the dots were lining up right on the shaft and the inside of the pump. After that I inserted the shaft (making sure the dot lines up to the pointer) and used a lip seal tool ensure that seal did not tear or fold back while inserting it.
KOOL, sounds like you got things covered.. 1 thing people don't know is a clogged return line will keep 1 from starting.. That's why the removal of the return fitting 1st thing.. Was it an "exchange pump" or did yours get rebuilt?? If it was exchange, the inards might be stuck.. happens ALL the time.. Then the top cover has to come off and hope to hell its JUST a stuck metering valve and not stuck plungers..
I think he said it was rebuilt
I usually bypass the whole fuel system by using a cheap 12 vt electric pump and fresh supply of diesel out of a clean container , run it to the supply side of the pump and hook up the return line back to that container , run the electric pump and bleed air from each fitting until you get only fuel , you should see the return line delivering fuel back to your container. now you should be able to start your machine and run it , this should eliminate the air from the system , the tank screen or supply lines and tell you if your injector pump is working properly / timed right etc. at this point you can begin to isolate and identify the problem ,