I just had it running today Saturday April 25th at 5:30pm for about 15 minutes. I just replaced all radiator hoses, thermostat, and put new antifreeze in it today. Then I went to start it up at about 5:25pm It had been sitting for about 6 weeks solid without starting it up, so the battery was very weak. I cranked it over a little, then waited. Then came back each time and after a few times the battery seemed to have "woken up". So then it finally fired up and ran no problem. When I went to shut it off, I did not throttle it down first before turning off the starter key. That it is the way it is supposed to be done it says it in the manual. I just forgot to do it that way because I am out of habit, haven't been running the machine much all winter. But, it didn't make any bad noises and I quickly turned the key back on and then throttled it down the correct way to shut it off. Later when I came back I noticed that when I turned the key there was NO action at all. Based on reading other threads it seems like I need to check my fuses, possibly replace my key ignition, or it's a bad solenoid on my starter. If anyone has any suggestions I would really appreciate it.
Check battery relay, should be very close to the batteries, they can and do go bad. May also be the reason it was cranking slow, bad connection. When you turn the key switch to "on" the switch sends power to the battery relay and it should "clunk" in connecting the batteries to the starter and everything else. Some are in the ground cable, most are in the positive cable going to the starter.
Hello Trax, Thank You for your input! Tommorrow is Monday so I can start calling to price out some of these parts. When I turn the key, yes there is a clunk like you mentioned. I checked it again this afternoon. I should be able to find the battery relay in the diagram in my manual. What about the typical starter motor test where people use a wrench across the bolts of the starter motor or something? Is that a bonehead thing to do? In any case, I will definetly be exploring tommorrow and be back with any updates and findings. Thanks Again.
Yes, but that doesn't mean that it doesn't work. You may not be getting power that far though on a Japanese machine with more relays I'm not used to. The slightly less bonehead way to do it is to use a test lead and voltmeter hooked to the big terminal going into the starter and see if you get power when you try to start it. That tells you if it's the starter or wiring. Then hook the test lead to the battery and repeat to see what the battery voltage does. You can check all through the battery cables that way to find a bad connection if that's what made your battery "wake up".
I just wanted to give an update. I turned the key to "on" position, then I put a wrench across the two solenoid bolts on the starter. There were some sparks and there was a sound like a motor, but no actual cranking of the engine. Also when I leave the key in "on" position, the buzzer starts going off after about 5 seconds and so I shut the key back off. So far I have not been able to locate the battery relay. There are two parts labeled "relay" in my manual but they do not offer more description. Cat dealer: Battery relay is $145, New starter switch $215, new keys $12 for 2, new starter is $1400 (gee thanks) I did find a local place that can possibly rebuild the starter if it needs it, but of course I have to take it off and bring it in. I have to do the things Lantraxco and Delmer said about tracing the battery line.
Okay, sounds like you have power to the starter and the motor spins. By crossing the two main terminals you get power to the motor but not the solenoid which pulls the drive in to engage the ring gear, look for a smaller third terminal on the starter with a wire connected to it and jump power to that. There's undoubtedly a starter relay between the switch and the starter, the Japanese love relays, that may be your issue. BTW, not trying to sell you anything but I probably carry replacement battery relays, starter switches and keys that will work. Many of the Morooka machines have Mitsubishi engines in them so some of the parts interchange. And I'm cheap, lol. Just google Lantraxco and Morooka you'll find my store.
Hello Trax, After I read your last reply, my neighbor came over, held the wrench from big bolt on solenoid to the small middle bolt you described while I turned the key to on position. The starter engaged and started turning the engine over. I stopped at that point and turned the key to off. No problem about selling me parts, I welcome it and I just went to your website. Looking at what is listed as a battery relay on your site, I have something just like it right in the battery box that is connected to the negative battery terminal. Do you think this needs to be changed? Or is it the actual starter switch? I took the seat out to get at the starter switch more easily, plus to clean the cab well, and while I was in there I took out the old school radio which had its face ripped off anyway. So basically now I am just wondering what to move forward with. Maybe I will try calling the number on your site. Thanks, M-D-14
Sorry I missed your call, kind of running in and out lately. If the starter is turning healthy, the starter, cables, and battery relay should be okay. You can check the starter switch with a meter or test light, the terminal you want will usually be marked with a big "C" (for commencer?) and should go hot when you turn the key to the start position. Alternatively you can remove the wire from the "C" terminal and carefully touch it to the "B" terminal, usually dead center, make sure the key is in the on position so the battery relay is on. When you touch the starter wire to the battery wire terminal, the starter should engage. If not then you have a wire or fuse or starter relay problem. Starter relay will usually look like an old Ford starter relay only smaller. If you find two, one is for the glow plugs and will click in when you turn the key to the left. Hope that gives you some more clues, it's been twenty years since I worked on anything close to that model.
I definetly know where the starter relay is now, it's mounted on the engine about a foot away from the starter. I will try to find the b and c terminals on the ignition and do the tests you described. If it is the starter relay or ignition do you have those in stock, if so how much? Or you can contact me at [email protected] Thanks
Trax, I held a piece of wire from B to C and the engine turned over. According to what you are saying this means my ignition/aka starter switch needs to be replaced. Thanks again for helping me troubleshoot. Also, I need to charge up my batteries also, they are very large, do you think they are 24volt? I should be able to find out in my manual. Can I take them to firestone for a charge? Thanks Again
The batteries will say the voltage. 99.99% they're 12V batteries (six caps or cells) but they might be wired in series for 24 or parallel for 12. You can charge them individually with a 12V charger as long as you can figure out what you're doing. If you can't figure it out, ask first.
I installed the new starter switch/ignition and the problem is still the same, there is no action. When I jump terminal B to C on the ignition, the engine turns over. Does anyone have any new suggestions? Thank You in Advance.
Take a test light or meter, see if you have good power at the B terminal, then when you turn the switch to the start position you get power to the C terminal. Then check to see if the Br terminal stays hot when you turn the switch to the start position. Either you have two bad switches or the battery relay is dropping out when you try to start it would be my guess.