The boom will not move. It has two cylinders. One seems like it's trying to move when I move the handle either way. All other cylinders and the rest of the machine work fine. What is the problem? Valve in the handles? Nut holding the gland inside one of the cylinders fall off? How do I test to narrow it down?
I would pull the cylinders to make sure the gland nut didnt come off and then trace down to the backhoe control valve if they check out ok.
Is there a way to figure out which one is the problem? I doubt both cylinders dropped their gland nuts.
Pick a cyl and remove the lines and put plugs in the hoses. If you disconnected the bad one, the boom will go up and down.
Can one cylinder move the boom? Because when I operate the handle I can see one of them trying to move. Is it not moving the boom because oil is bypassing through the cylinder with the gland that's off? There is a line that connects both cylinders together.
One cyl will move the boom, just don't try to dig with it.
Put the swing lock pin in for safety sake and have someone hold the boom in raise with good throttle for a few minutes and see which cylinders lines warm up, that will be the bad cylinder. It is a simple and reliable troubleshooting tool, used it many times and you don't have to buy it from Snap on.
This maybe a dumb question but is the boom unlocked from its travel cradle ?
That was a good one! It is unlocked.
Sorry
Just curious, is this a new to you machine, did it just start doing this. Could the hoses be mixed.
I've had it for 10 years. The boom worked fine a month ago. I'm the only one who works on it. Never touched those two cylinders.
Took both cylinders apart. The gland fell off the chrome shaft on one cylinder. I can't get the gland out because it is cocked and jammed in the housing. Any tricks to getting this out? I'm thinking about cutting the cylinder housing and re welding it to get it out.
V the end cap off. But if you have to press the the piston through the tube is probably no good
We had 10 to 15 rebuilt tubes on hand years ago do to the rental fleet and sales dept for the B,C,D,E machines with the 35 hoe. You can lay it down and use a pipe or large pry bar to knock the high side back, then try a rod with a small L bent to work it out. Most of the time the bore it trashed and the tube will need more than a good hone. Most hyd shops can tube them for half the cost of new. If you cut the weld on the yoke end get your measurements before cutting. The piston bolt is most likely the cause of it cocked to the side if it's at the bottom of the tube.
I see broken tractor listing tubes for $495.00, if you call your dealer ask also the shop manager if they have rebuilt units in the service dept. May get lucky and a good price.
The tube is bulged out where the gland is jammed. I didn't realize it until I looked at the other one. It looks like I'm definitely going to have to replace that. How do I know if the chrome part is bent? To bulge out the tube like it did, I'm assuming the rod is bent.
You can only lay the rod down and run a strait edge beside it. Any good flat surface, let the eye end hang over and roll the rod and see what the max bow you have in it. Also if the bow is to the rt or lt of how it would be working mounted, or arched up or down how it would be working. Have straightened some but most break/ bow/ end up with a hump. They can also cut the rod eyes and make you a new rod. 0 -150 thousand would not give it a thought, 1/8 and more i would start looking. Everyone will have there own thoughts on this depending on wear to the gland and piston with the rod in and strength to the rod while putting force down at max reach.