Does anyone know any nifty little tricks to get the top mounting bolt nut started on a 96 310D. I managed to get the starter off but have not managed to get the nut started on the top bolt, neighbor suggested a midget with tiny hands but I have been unable to find one. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Midgets can be tricky, sometimes they eat, drink and gamble much more than you could imagine!!! Harbor Freight has some nifty gadgets for holding bolts and nuts in odd positions.
Tape the nut/bolt to a piece of hose. Use the hose like a flexible shaft to start the nut/bolt. When it grabs the threads just pull the hose off. Tighten with a wrench. This is also a fine way to avoid cross threading. If the hose won't start it, it's cross threaded or damaged.
I replaced my starter (on my 1992 310D) about a year ago. I remember the frustration of starting that bolt. I did it with my fingers. My trick was to pass a thread tap in the hole and a die over the bolt to be sure it scews in really easy. Try it in the hole before you mount the starter. Then with the starter on I was able to hold it in with a finger of one hand while turning it with a finger of the other hand. Or you can then try a magnet or hose like hosspuller said or just a stick taped to the head of the bolt. While I'm here I need to tell you that I bought a new starter because I thought my 9,500 hour starter was all worn out but all it needed was new brushes. The bearings were still perfect.
96 JD 310D starter removal and install Thanks for the tips gents I will give the piece of hose thing a try since no midgets are available in my area. Deon there was no doubts about the starter needing to be replaced as the nose piece broke off and wedged behind the flywheel, although it has been a barrel of fun trying to get it fixed I will sure be glad to get back to grubbing brush.
I have the same problem with a jd 410hoe. I've tried the stick trick, themagneticpickuo tool and my fingers aren't long enough. The bolt is offset from the top of the starter is the whole f#%#g problem. Anyone have any more ideas or tricks? Please
Back when I worked on a fair number of Deere machines I was in the habit of relocating the mounting flange on most of the starters I installed. On most machines and with most starters, there was room to go one or two bolt holes rotation on the mounting flange, moving the solenoid out far enough to gain access room. Not all starters are built that way though. Had a particularly nasty job on a 510, we had been busy and had the local starter rebuilder in his mobile van rebuild the starter and reinstall it in the field. This 510 usually chewed through a starter every few months. Anyway, he had reassembled so tight there was absolutely no way to remove that top nut with the tools I had in my service truck, he must have had a pretty unique starter wrench. I disassembled the starter from the rear forward, finally removing the solenoid, armature, and drive leaving the nose cone bare and good access to the nut. We finally got a Denso starter for it and that was the end of that chore.
I don't think there are any adjustments on this starter. I took the bolt loose with 9/16 wrench and then finished with my fingers (barely touching the nut). The stud is offset from the starter. If I could just get one thread started, I could wrench it tight....... But that's the prob. If I could find someone with long fingers .
Ok, i got the mfn nut on the top bolt on my jd410, tried everything, ended up holding in place with my finger and some chewing gum and starting it with another finger. I was still lucky to get it on though. Hardest damn place to get to. Oh well, just glad its done.
I have this ugly looking snap on wrench in the toolbox specifically for JD starters. I think it's made for harley head bolts or something, but it's the same as the JD wrench. JD found some bs reason to put one stud around the back where nothing will fit. I found a picture of it online. Greyson
I couldnt open your pic but i think i have a wrench like that. Is it 9/16 curved box end and has 2 bends in it ? I made mine for a 4230 that had 3 bolts on it. I saw one at a dealers and it was almost identical to the one i made. Even it wouldnt work on this one.
I two had this problem, on two completely different john deeres. i bent a wrench to fit, works but you can barely get an 1/8 of turn. socket with ext. doesnt work. for some reason on both machines the top stud came out with nut. i cut a slot in both studs and can use a screw driver on both only need the wrench to tighten and loosen
I'm guessing the solenoid is only an inch or so away from the mounting nut, so there's not enough room to get a flex socket on an extension onto the nut?? When I first started wrenching for a living, I got the #1 spark plug out of my dad's Chevy 396; it was under the AC compressor and he had left it in there for about 40K miles. Took me about 5 minutes of playing with all my sockets, universal joints and extensions to get it out. Gap was open to about .050".
Seems Deere has two starter wrenches ... the JDE80 and JDG2046 About $25 and $60 Yikes !!