Hello, I just bought a 1996 JLG 45HA 4X4 articulated boom lift. It has the Ford gas/propane engine. Serial #024262 0300022807. Overall it's in OK shape for its age, but needs some things repaired. I find the JLG engine and hydraulic oil charts difficult to interpret. I live in the Willamette Valley in Oregon which gets 4 seasons, but is mild overall. Very few below freezing days and a few days near 100 degrees. What should I use for engine oil weight? Would Costco AW46 hydraulic oil made by Citgo be OK to use? What is the gizmo(circled in red) mounted to the left of the engine? It's disconnected. Do I need it? The horn is missing along with the tilt warning light. The tilt mechanism has a loose wire. Is there more than one tilt mechanism? I'm guessing this should be repaired for safety reasons? The service manual is hard to understand because they talk about parts and pieces without any pictures. For example, how do you check and change the gear oil in the drives? Thanks for any help and guidance, Steve
The trailer was slightly overloaded. I had a 1/2" air gap between the tires and trailer sidewalls. Got it home in one piece.
Did I post this in the wrong area? Where did all the experts go? Steve
Motor Oil: 10W/30 or 10W/40 should work just fine in a mild climate, not extreme cold or extreme hot Hydraulic Oil: AW32 or AW46 will work fine I don't recognize the gizmo mounted on the engine, not sure what that is or what it does, looks like it's possibly connected to an oil pressure port. The 5 degree tilt sensor is to alert the operator that the machine is on a slope and therefore could be unstable to operate. Yes, you should fix that. There should only be one tilt sensor on the machine, typically they work either an indicator lamp or an alarm, sometimes both Gear oil in the drives refers to the oil in the planetary hubs on the drive wheels. You should see a plug on the outer cover of the planetary hubs. Drive the machine so the plug is at the bottom, remove plug and drain the oil. Then drive the machine until the plug is at mid point, 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock, fill the hub with gear oil until it is at the level of the open plug hole.
To wager a guess about the gizmo on the engine, if the engine has a mechanical fuel pump it may be a fuel valve (gasoline). It blocks flow of gas to the carb until the engine has been cranking momentarily until it builds oil pressure to open the valve. Is it necessary? Probably not. Is that a duel fuel engine that runs on propane as well?
Yes, it looks like the gas fuel lock in the parts manual. It's taking me a lot of hours to get familiar with all of these parts since I don't know anything about this machine. It's a dual fuel machine, but the propane tank and several hoses and other parts are missing. I don't know the history and there may be more missing and bad parts. I will tackle getting the propane system up and running at a later date. Below is the main boom pivot bushing. What would cause the brass bushing to break apart and flatten out like this? No broken welds or other signs of damage. You can't see it, but the other end of this bushing is the same way. Like a tremendous amount of pressure smashed the bushing flat and caused it to deform and widen. I can't imagine a lack of grease would cause this? The bushing on the other side is in better shape. Also, the pin is secure and not rotating. I will replace the pin and both bushings. I hope the prior owner was not using it as a crane. Thank you for your response. It is greatly appreciated!
I'm not sure what caused damage to those bushings, but I'd replace them ASAP, and maybe it's just the pic but those upper wear pads for the telescoping section don't look so good either. Make sure the auxiliary power unit works and works functions from the platform, a machine that age with old weathered hoses could pop a hose at any moment and with the engine running it could dump a lot of oil quickly, you might need the aux power unit to get you down.
I'll clean up the pads and post another picture of them. What would cause this problem: When the tower boom is up and the main boom is horizontal(empty basket- I'm staying on the ground until repairs are made) the machine shudders(slip-sticking) when the tower telescope is being extended. The whole machine shakes(pretty aggressively). If the boom is mostly vertical it will stop. Do I need to lubricate the wear pads? The auxiliary power is working. I will be replacing the weather checked hoses. Who has the best pricing on JLG parts these days? My parts list is growing daily. How do I adjust the model "SF" Precision Governor? Currently the idle is about 1400RPM(should be 800) mid-range is 1,500 and high is around 3,000. The engine randomly spikes after stroking the controls and peaks for a few seconds to 3,400RPM. Is the idle suppose to be backed off on the carb and all RPM's are controlled by the governor? Also, the engine instantly dies if I stroke any hydraulic control before it is completely warmed up. It will do this a time or two then stop. Thank you again for the great advice! Steve
Stalling until the engine warms up is a normal thing for all gasoline powered lifts. You pretty much have to let them warm up on ground control (circulates the hydraulic oil) for 15 to 20 minutes before using them. That gizmo you showed with the hose going to it was a shut-off valve for the gasoline when the lift was dual fuel. Sometimes an oil additive in the hydraulic system will stop the shudder. They don't recommend lubricating the boom wear pads, although as long as you aren't a sand blaster, I don't see a reason not to. Crane booms are lubed and they are virtually the same thing. I'll see what I can find for setup procedure on Precision governors when I get back to work on Monday. I know I have one. We had three 40HA's with that same engine. I remember the throttle kinda blipped when you stepped on the pedal, but high engine only functioned in drive.
I can quit stressing about the engine stalling now. Waiting for it to warm up did the trick. Thanks. I think its prior life was for sandblasting. Underneath the damaged bushing in the picture is a ton of valves(what do they operate?), hoses, and electrical. There was at least 8 inches of black coarse sand that was like concrete. It took me a few hours to dig it all out. The area around the swing motor is buried in sand too. My latest problem is how do I track down my tower down function not working from the platform? It was working and it now quit. May have something to do with all the sand removal. I was super careful digging out all the sand around all of the components. I swapped PQ controllers and it did not fix it. The ground control switch works fine up/down. So does this mean my problem is electrical? I'll try some lube on the pads after I get the machine cleaned up. I not sure of the exact model of the Ford engine, but it does have the E-301 controller with the SF actuator. The main thing I would like to figure out is if I should back off the carb idle screw and let the actuator arm control idle? Currently the carb idle screw is setting idle and the actuator adjustment bolt is backed off and not controlling the idle. Then I would like to figure out how to set the high idle from surging over 3,000RPM. Thanks again for the help, Steve
I did a reply earlier today on my phone and lost it all. That black sand is called "copper slag". it's the answer to sand blasting without getting silicosis. I would be looking over the valves very carefully, checking for a broken wire to one of the coils. Including ground wires. With everything buried in wet sand, wires rot pretty quick. As I remember, that governor setup was sort of a 3 step thing. base idle, a slightly higher RPM while the controls were active, and then full throttle when the drive controller is fully stroked. I would use the carb idle screw to set a base idle. You want the governor to increase throttle as required to maintain RPM, but not to have the ability to kill the engine.
I'm not up to speed on the electrical yet. The PDF electrical drawings I downloaded from JGL's website are too blurry to read. I'm amazed at how complex this boom lift is compared to my 580C backhoe. If a wire to a coil was damaged would the ground control switch still work? Or am I looking for a bad connection from the platform to valve? As you can tell I don't know how these systems work. Steve
It's been a long time since I've worked on these, but seems I recall the E301 controls idle rpm and high speed rpm while providing throttle as required in both modes according to load demand. As for the carb idle stop screw, it's supposed to be backed off allowing the E301 and the actuator to control idle. If the idle screw is used it will cause a negative mechanical feedback on the actuator. The E301 has to be adjusted correctly for all this to work properly. And again, it's been a long time and I could be wrong, but I think they offered a separate "mid range board" option to allow the throttle to rev slightly above idle for working boom functions.
If a wire to one of the valve coils is not making contact, the function will not work from either ground or basket. The basket wiring and the ground control wiring meet at the main terminal box. From that point, there is only one set of wires. Always the first thing to check when something in the basket doesn't work - check in on the ground controls. If it works on ground, you know the problem is in the basket. if it doesn't work on ground either, you know the problem is between the main terminal box and the control valves. (or in the main terminal box) ton of bosch style relays in there. I can see Willie59 being right about not setting base idle with the carb screw now that I think about it. Possibly I used to set the carb screw low, about 500 RPM, just enough that the governor can't bounce the throttle plate completely closed.
OK, that points me in the right direction. So to summarize my tower down feature that is operated by the PQ controller quit working. I swapped the wire harness with another known working PQ controller. Still no tower down. The ground control tower down toggle switch works fine. So I now need to check the wiring from the basket all through the boom and tower, and back to the ground control terminal? Do I just find both ends and do a continuity test? Is there just one wire on this function? Steve
It's fairly uncommon for just 1 wire to break in the main boom harness. Although it could happen and JLG will usually leave a few spare wires that can used if it does happen. Most of the time, it will be a bad connection on one end or the other.
Aside from an obvious spot where boom cable is damaged, another common failure of wires in the boom cable is wires broken from cyclic bending in the powertrak as the boom telescopes in/out over and over for years, eventually this bending of the wires breaks them, you can't see it when this happens. As OFF stated, JLG typically had either spare wires or wires for optional functions that are not being used to get you by, but eventually you'll have to replace the boom cables if that's what's causing your problem.
On the Ford VSG-411 motor and the E-301 governor controller what cause a rich fuel mixture(I think)? The plugs are dry with black soot. The exhaust is a little back at idle and I get puffs of black smoke on RPM changes. Is this carburation or electronics? The valves were way out of adjustment. Intake and exhaust clearance should be .009 and .012 thousandths of an inch using a feeler gauge. Mine was around .018 to .020. The motor sounds better, but I hope the flat tappets and camshaft are not worn. Steve
Found another problem... I can't find any good wiring diagrams and I have no idea if the yellow wire should attach to the alternator. The short lead on the alternator(circled in red is hot). The yellow wire is a few inches short from reaching it. I traced the yellow wire back to the electrical bus mounted on the back of the engine above the hydraulic pumps. I don't want to hook it up not knowing 100%. I would hate to burn up an expensive component. Could this have anything to do with my high RPM surge? Steve
I think I found my problem. I saw some electrical tape wrapped around a big cable( with a good size kink in it). It's located in the cavity where the lowest tower cylinder sits. I decided to pull it apart and inspect it. It got pinched by the hydraulic cylinder and turntable motor. Lucky find!
I repaired all the wires in the above picture. That fixed all the platform controls. I'm trying to get the propane side fixed. The vacuum delay valve(1st pic) is in the picture circled in red. It is mounted on vacuum tubing between the propane vacuum safety switch and the intake manifold. It T's off to the ECS MAP sensor(3rd pic). This part is not in the JLG parts manual or in the Ford VSG-411 manual. I called two JLG parts dealers and they can't find it either. Have you seen one of these before on this machine or did someone add it on? Steve
I'm not a spark engine expert, I have no idea what that gizmo is, baffles me that anything is inline between the intake manifold and the MAP sensor. I'm sure there's a purpose for it, but I have no idea what its purpose would be.
I was working on a Nissan forklift today that had one! That one says "DIST" on it, so it was originally designed for the vacuum advance unit on a distributor, probably in the 1970's, Ford, automotive. You can run without it. You only need it for heavy/extended full throttle use when the engine vacuum drops to zero and might cause the propane lock valve to shut the fuel off. I might even have one, a new left over from a VS411 drop-in engine assembly we bought for a 40HA about 20 years ago. That would be a Ford Power Poducts part, JLG wouldn't have a listing for those. Strange looking propane system, I'm used to Impco stuff. Where does that vacuum hose go? I see there's a "T" in it. Is that the same hose going into the spark module?
Willie- It's called a vacuum delay valve. The link below explains how they work. They are color-coded to represent the amount of vacuum delay. Mine is white/black which says it has 63.5 seconds of delay. That seems crazy long to me, but then I don't clearly understand it's function in this application either. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_delay_valve OFF- If you have one consider it sold. I can only find it used online off of old vehicles. Yes, the vacuum hose from the "T" goes into the Universal Electronic Spark Control(UESC). An experienced Ford Power Products parts guy said today he has not seen one and can't order it. He also said Ford was not responsible for the propane system. So he said to get it from JLG. But JLG said to get it from Ford. Very frustrating. Steve
On yours, the part number stamped D32E-AA tells us what it was from. D = 1970's 3 = model year, in this case 1973 2 = means it was used on the Pinto E = the part of the vehicle, in this case - Engine A 1600 cc version of that engine was used in the Pinto from 71 to 73, so it sounds about right.
Thanks for the explanation OFF, I did not know that, learned something new today.
In our trade Willie, There is way too much information. no way one man can know it all.
True, and in my case I intentionally try to forget everything I know about spark engines.
Does my propane system look like the original hardware? Is the screw with the spring the only adjustment on this system? How do you synchronize the gas/propane systems for idle? The machine runs great on either fuel at the ground control or basket(higher RPM's). I just can't balance the idle settings. If the gas side idles at 800RPM then I switch to propane the machine dies. If I set the propane idle(screw on governor actuator arm that mounts to the Zenith carb) then the gas side idle is too high. Also, the last picture below shows how the vacuum line is attached to the brass "T". Steve
Yes, that Beam 60 is original equipment on that machine, and I wager that is the "original" regulator on your machine. And yes, on that particular model Beam 60 that adjustment screw did both start assist as well as idle assist. If you can't get it to work right I wager you need to replace that regulator, propane regulators get all funky inside over time and no adjustment will make them work right. You could try and rebuilt it, but in my experience over the years I've never had good success with that, hit or miss at best. I got tired of all the misses and started replacing, I don't have time to tinker with uncooperative components. If you do replace it, they've done away with idle adjustment/control on newer regulators for emission (EPA) reasons. The only adjustment on the new Beam T60 regulators is the start assist. They still call it an idle adjustment screw, but that's really not correct, it's a screw that helps open the propane delivery diaphragm when cranking the engine to start when air flow across the propane venturi is low. Once the engine gets running there's sufficient air flow across the venturi to work the delivery diaphragm both at idle as well as under work load. And I can't say for sure, but it looks like your regulator has the internal propane lockoff.
I certainly do see an electric lock valve on that system too Willie. Must be to make the dual fuel work.
Willie are you talking about something inside the regulator? Or the large round valve(electric #10 in the picture) just upstream of the regulator? The machine does take about 5 or more seconds to shut off while on propane. The unleaded gas side turns off almost immediately. Steve
While I'm waiting for parts I'm on to the next problem. So the 4 wheel drive system is not working correctly. All the low speed, high RPM(3,000), creep, and high/low pump speed functions seem to be working OK. When I put it in the high-speed mode(toggle switch) and then feather the PQ control it killed the engine several times and the machine did not move. The few times it didn't kill the engine the machine would slowly move and it sounded like a pressure relief was kicking in. Plus it sounded like a lot of gear noise once the machine started to move along. Low speed doesn't make any sounds. The engine was under a major load too. This is on flat dry grass. The service manual is useless. Steve
Item #10 is the propane lock valve, it doesn't get power until vacuum is applied to the Microvac switch from engine cranking via hose #22. But the port where nipple #18 screws into the regulator looks like the port that applies vacuum to an internal lock off diaphragm so if you're replacing the regulator then you'd want to make sure the regulator you get has that internal lock off. I can't explain why they use two lock off devices, but I know it's common, Genie does the same thing. And it's normal for the engine to run until it dies when you shut it down while on propane, this purges the propane that's in the lines after the lock off solenoid shuts off. That way if you switch it to gasoline the mixture isn't getting mixed with propane. Moreover, if you're switch fuels, it's best to have the engine at idle and move the fuel selector switch to the middle position, this will shut off the fuel that was being supplied, whether gas or propane, and purge the carb of that fuel, then switch to the alternate fuel and fire it up.
Thanks for the great explanation Willie. What are your thoughts on my 4 wheel drive from my post above your response? I drained the torque hubs and the oil was probably the original. It was pretty thick, a little low, and one was slightly milky colored. The magnetic plugs had the usual paste on it and one plug had a few metal chips(not good). But they all turned freely and sounded the same. So I'm confused, I thought I read somewhere on HEF that with the torque hubs disengaged(plate flipped around with nipple pushing the shaft in) the brakes would still be on. For towing purposes you had to release the brakes? Should all of my hubs free spin with the torque hubs disengaged and the engine off? I was surprised to see two different styles of hubs. The front of the machine is one style and the rear is another style. The model numbers are W1BJ4E324 AND W1BFN0324. Is this original? One pair had 2 oil drain plugs 90 degrees apart. The other pair had 4 oil drain plugs. They were 90 degrees apart, but the extra set of plugs were behind the flange the rim bolts to. It also appears the oil is separated from front to back. After I drained the oil on the front side I discovered the rear plugs. This oil drained separately so there must be two cavities in this style of hub. So I don't think there is anything wrong with the planetary gears. How do I figure out if my high-speed stalling is electrical or hydraulic? Steve
If everything i inside the torque hubs is proper then when you push the disconnect pin in with the nipple plate then the planetary is disconnected from the input drive shaft, no brakes, no connection to motor, wheels will spin, but not freely, you're still turning the planetary gears inside the hub. That's why they recommend a max towing speed although I can't recall what that speed is. As for the high drive problem, not sure what's causing that problem.
What are the basics of the brakes? Can low speed or high speed overpower them? Are the brakes disengaged they same way for high and low speed? How do you isolate the brakes or verify they are off?
I doubt you problem is with the brakes. The brakes are spring applied, it takes hydraulic pressure to release the brakes to overcome the springs. This pressure comes from the forward or reverse drive pressure sent to the lower frame, ports A or B at counterbalance valve. Internally inside the counterbalance valve ports A and B are connected to a brake outlet port, a shuttle valve prevents free flow between ports A and B, but the shuttle allows pressure from either ports A or B to be applied to that brake port and send that pressure to the brakes to release them. My point, if the drive is working fine in low range, releasing the brakes, then they would be releasing in high range as well, still the same oil coming into ports A and B. But I'm not sure what's causing your problem as I haven't seen this before.
Thanks for clarifying that. I've studied the wiring and hydraulic schematics, but they are handwritten and blurry. Plus they don't tell you what most of the symbols stand for. Some of them I found on the internet, but others seem to be their own hieroglyphics. When I flip the toggle switch for high speed what does it turn on? An extra pump? What does the 2-speed valve do? What about the step control valve that has a high drive cartridge? When the engine dies from being overloaded I think I hear a pressure relief valve being activated. I also noticed on the Vickers valve stack(4 ganged valves mounted by the hydraulic tank) the pressure relief screws are all in about the same position except for one valve(closest to the hydraulic tank). It is backed way out on both sides which I'm guessing lowers the pressure for some function.
First we have to get out terminology on the same page. A proper 45HA (at the platform) should have a proportional drive controller to control drive forward and reverse. Aside from that, it should have a toggle switch for pump output volume and another toggle switch for wheel motor speed. The drive controller controls the output of the Vickers valve section that controls drive motors forward and reverse, being proportional it gives you variable speed of the motors. If you flip the creep switch, that simply reduces the output of the drive controller signal to the Vickers control valve to provide a maximum slow speed. The Vickers valve gets pressure at the P port from the front pump section via the accessory valve. When you flip the pump volume switch it sends additional oil from the middle pump section to the P port of the Vickers valve, additional oil flow, which will slightly increase the speed of the drive motors as they now have more oil flowing through them. If you flip the wheel motor speed switch it powers up a solenoid valve that sends a signal to all four drive motors to change the position of the swash plate inside the motors changing the displacement as they're variable displacement motors, which again will change the speed of the drive motors. I wouldn't mess with anything on that Vickers valve, those things require special procedures to make adjustments to them.
I don't think there is any electrical wires down to the individual motors, so this "signal" is fluid to the four motors? Since my PQ controls seem to be original and quirky I'm going to buy a new one to see how it behaves compared to my old ones. Maybe this will help troubleshoot? I'm just amazed at how much technology is crammed into this machine compared to my backhoe and skid steer. It's a much bigger challenge to repair.
While I've got the machine blocked up in the air to fix a flat and paint the rims is there any testing I can do? Should any hydraulic pressures be taken for diagnosis? Steve
Been too many years since I've worked on those machines, I don't recall the test procedures for those machines.
Looking in the parts manual the basket control came configured with a PQ controller for driving and the steering was a toggle switch(my configuration). They also show a PQ controller that is a combination of steering and drive function. Is this something I can upgrade to since I need a new controller? Or is it a lot more involved than simply plugging the toggle switch wires into the controller? Not sure how the dual purpose control works, but seems like it would be a lot easier to drive and steer with one control instead of using both hands on different switches. Steve
Yes, it should have a PQ controller with the steer control on top of the controller joystick lever. Get your parts number from the parts manual and contact Hindley Electronics in Bowling Green Ohio and get a quote for a replacement controller from them.
Mine has separate steering toggle(lower left)and separate drive PQ controller(lower right). I would like to upgrade to the PQ controller you are referring to. Just wondering if the wiring is as simple as hooking up the toggle wires to the new PQ controller or not.
Ahh, that's the old school PQ controllers, been years since I've worked on those. I'm not totally certain, but I don't think that type of PQ came with the steer switch on the lever, later models did, but their circuit card is different than the ones on that model. I don't know if the later model controllers would work on that machine. I'd say just stick with the steer switch on the left.
I'm sure that new PQ controller body I'm sending you will work. It's got the steering rocker switch on the knob. The wiring from the steering rocker switch is totally separate from the wiring for the rest to the controller. Only Three wires, power in, right & left output. It's got to work.
Here is my latest struggle. How do I get the worm gear off? Is it a tapered press fit onto the shaft? Key or no key? It looks like the three tapped holes are for a special puller? The top piece was hard to get off with a torch and pry bars. The key and bore were rusted solid to the shaft. The smaller worm gear(#107) that is driven by the motor ate into the aluminum housing. So the platform rotation has a ton of slop in it. What is the bracket(#13) for. Mine is gone. What are the 4 roll pins(#108) for? Thank you in advance, Steve
Also, any idea how the pin at the end of the boom comes out? It has a hex on one end and the other takes a through bolt(missing) Someone welded a bolt to the outside of the frame and the end of the pin rather than do a proper repair. I ground that mess off and I need to rotate the pin to align the holes. Is it threaded? It would be nice if the service manual had some basic instructions on how stuff goes together.
You want to start with the basket? Your #13 bracket is a like little reaction arm and it needs to be there. That's the part that always used to shear off whenever someone ran the edge of the basket into a non-movable object. Is you basket really floppy? Turns which ever way the wind blows? Also, you see #7 in your diagram? Those are cupped washers, and as they are compressed, they apply force to the clutch disc and tension to the basket rotate. Take that big bolt out, see if the washers are still there and stacked properly. See link, they act like a spring. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer Your pin is held in by the lock bolt. That hex on the other side only provides a way to rotate the pin so that the lock bolt can lined up. The way it sits now, you should be able to drive it out. You might want to try rotating the pin before you try knocking it out, just to see how hard it's going to be.
OFF, Sorry for the confusion, but I posted the wrong parts diagram. The bracket goes to the low mount style platform. I have the standard platform so I don't need the bracket. The thrust bearings, shims, cupped washers, and regular washers all disintegrated. The small worm now slides back and forth about .5 inch. It is sliding in and out of the hydraulic motor coupler. Is the large worm wheel installed on a taper? It won't budge with plenty of heat and prybars. I think I will machine a steel puller plate with drilled holes to pull on the 3 tapped holes of the worm wheel. Steve
I can't get the worm wheel to budge using penetrant, rosebud, and a custom made puller. If I use much more heat I will melt the aluminum housing. I don't want to cut and ruin any parts yet because the shaft($340) and gear($420) is a lot of money. When this assembly is working properly does the worm wheel spin freely on the shaft besides the friction brake tension?
Has anyone ever serviced one of these torque hubs? I have a leaking rear seal, and a little metal debris in the gear oil. So far everything looks great on disassembly. I removed the stubborn flat snap ring(retains outer bearing) and then the spacer. Looking at the service manual and parts manual the hub should slip right off. As you can see in my picture it won't budge at all, but I don't want to reef on it until I get some feedback on why it may be so stuck. Shouldn't the inner race be a light press fit at most? Thanks in advance for the help, Steve
Other than the bearing races being a very snug fit on the spindle, I don't see, or know of a reason it shouldn't pull off there. You should be battling that outer bearing only. The inner bearing should just pop the seal and stay on the spindle. Nice puller setup, have you put some force on it yet?
OFF, I put a fair amount of force on it and was expecting it to move. I'll try it again with more force. I was panicking that I didn't have a big enough puller until I figured out I could sneak behind the gear to hold on the back side. Crazy story: I was driving late at night on a county road. Saw an object in the middle of the road and it was too late to dodge it. So I ran over it with my Camry and it was an awful sound. I pulled over and went to check it out and it was the big puller I'm using in the picture! Both the car and the puller survived. I'm guessing it fell out of a service truck. Steve
I used this controller to replace my drive controller. No issues so far, works better now. https://www.ebay.com/itm/JLG-Joysti...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I don't see why your gear or hub should not come off. You can try to put the hyd motor back on the basket and see if that will break the gear loose. The gear should spin on the shaft, and the clutch pressure moves the basket. Unless this went bad at sometime and somebody did a repair so the gear is fixed to the shaft. I adjusted mine, but never had to take it apart.
Fixer, Thanks for the response! Lots of corrosive Oregon rain I'm afraid. Because the gear was not able to slip, every time the basket ran into something it wore the small worm into the aluminum housing by about .375". So I need to get it apart and make some spacers. The hub oil was decent and no water damage. I've never seen that much press fit on a tapered roller bearing to a spindle. It has a very stiff split ring to keep it all together anyway. My overall opinion is JLG just make everything too tight of a press-fit for all pins, bushings, etc. The rain welded it all together over time. Steve
That is one rusty machine. I wish mine was 4x4, but I've managed to get by without it. When I set my drive pressure, I think I set it a bit on the high side of 3k, just to make sure. They don't have a lot of power in the high speed mode, but when it gets moving it seems like you are doing 60mph lol!!
Lug nut mystery.... Ordered several new JLG 1/2-20 lug nuts(part #3300012). They showed up in original packaging, but they are a 60-degree cone. The parts manual does not show any other version of lug nuts. My rims appear to be original since they have 3 different colors of paint like the rest of the machine. The date stamp on the rims(9 hole pattern) is the same age as the machine(1996). The rims are stamped "16.5X9.75 DOT 06/95" and the tires are 12X16.5. I read that you should NOT mismatch the tapers because they will work loose. I checked the rim countersink with a protractor and it is definitely 90-degrees. So what is going on here? Where can I find the correct one? I haven't found any online, but there are lots of 9/16 & 5/8 inch ones available. Thanks, Steve
On the top of page 2 of this thread, I was looking for a new vacuum delay. OFF was kind enough to send me one from a stash of old but new parts. I decided to dissect my old one. Inside it's mostly an empty cavity with a prefilter, destroyed gasket, and a very fine mesh screen that slows down the vacuum. It was pretty goopy inside with probably 23 years of fuel vapors passing through it. While looking for some other engine parts I finally located a good JLG part number if one ever needs this gizmo. It's called a vacuum delay, but JLG calls it a fuel separator filter part #2120112. Steve
Have a JLG 45HA. I have a question about steering. Pump pressure is only 500 lbs.at steering port. Is pump pressure regulated by restriction at steering control. I adjust it in and out and it changes nothing. I put on a new steering control about 5 years ago and it worked good.
I have a couple of questions on how the propane system works. What does the adjustable large screw with a jam nut do on the intake? The hose is coming from the propane regulator(Beam Model 60). Does the filterlock have a replaceable filter inside? Does it ever need to be serviced? I rebuilt the carburetor and want to finish any other loose ends. The Ford VSG411 and the JLG manual do not address the propane system at all. Is there a manual on how to calibrate this system? Thanks, Steve
Hi Steve, That locking screw is for setting the fuel mixture on the propane. Pretty crude system really, doesn't allow for any variation of fuel with load or engine speed. The proper way to set it would be using a CO meter (measures carbon monoxide) in the exhaust and shoot for about .2 PPM. under load. Now, in the real world, you want to set it for the best power under full load at full RPM (driving). If your engine stumbles/misses/dies under load, open up that screw about 1/2 turn at a time until the engine is performing properly. Don't just go crank it all the way open because propane has a very narrow window of flammability. Too rich doesn't run, it won't light. Very frustrating situation to get into. I've never seen a manual that addresses propane from either Ford Industrial or JLG. All propane systems have a filter or two somewhere, there's a lot of garbage (wax) in propane. Good luck! Dave
Torque hub question: I reassembled my torque hubs and the 3 gears have to be timed. The manual says to do a roll test with their roll check tool. Basically use their special tool to spin the hub(both directions) at least the same amount of revolutions as the gear ratio(mine is 24). Since I don't have the tool would it be the same to spin the hubs instead of the input shaft? Thanks, Steve
Hoping to get some information on a 1992 HA45 I just purchased- Has 25HP Kohler I do not believe it is original- I now have everything working both base and platform- Motor governor is still iffy- no idle - full rpm at start-up- speed solenoid works to hihger (overspeed) rpm. I am going to replace carb and re-set. My question for today is: How do I adjust flow (speed) to various operations? Specifically- slow down swing and speed up boom extend. Thanks for your help- This site has been very helpful for my restoration work!