2000 John Deere 160 LC Seems to be a fuel issue. It’s been fixed 2 times before by putting new filters on but the amount of time that it had lasted has slowly lessened. Priming the system seems to take forever. Next on the list is to drain the tank and as the water separator seems to be catching water and some other dirt. Is there any filter screens on any of the lines that could be clogged now causing an issue? No visible fuel leaks that could cause air to get in the system. Today I swapped the filters again, got it running after an hour of trying to get it to prime. Ran at idle for about 10 min. Shut it off then about 30 min later, ran it for about 5 minutes, bogged down and shut off. Any help is appreciated!
It would help to know what machine and/or what engine. Sounds like it could be a lift pump or other fuel pump gone bad. You could try blowing air through the fuel lines.
2000 John Deere 160LC 4 cyl. Pretty sure it’s a 4045 motor.
There are no filter screens in any of the fuel lines or fittings. May be worth putting a piece of clear fuel line close to the inlet of the fuel transfer pump and check for air bubbles when trying to prime. The primary/water separator filter head o-ring/seals are known to dry up.
well, it is probably not helping, but from my personal experience, check fuel quality. Once I have used fuel that stored too long, well it turns out to be a disaster.
Is the seal between the water separator filter and the clear bowl? It will suck air and not leak fuel. Looks like a clue here.
If it has a supply pump bolted to the side of the inj pump, pull the inlet line off the bottom of the s pump.. it has a filter in it.. (banjo bolt). the line is below the hand primer.. If the supply pump is bolted to the engine, they’re cheap enough to replace..
Air intrusion is frustrating. You mentioned trash and water in the separator. Time to drain the tank , remove and blow through each hose individually at each end to clear debris and check for flappers. Reseal your water separator and change the final filter. If any length of hose looks suspect, (external cracks, really mushy) replace it. Any banjo screws or fittings should be closely inspected for jammed up debris. Elbows of the fuel tank, either off the bottom or standpipe off the top should be removed and blown through to check for obstructions. Some manufacturers put a sump plate on the bottom of the tank. Do not remove unless you have the new o-ring in your hand. It won't go back where it came from. They swell up to seal better.... Remove the plate and check for a suction strainer, clean it thoroughly, then blow dry. Make sure fluid passes easily. That it's not rusted closed inside. Remove and inspect your overflow valve, make sure the spring is not broken and that the ball seals properly. I hope these suggestions with what everyone else has advised are helpful. Good luck