Hi all! I've acquired this used backhoe recently and getting to "know" it, and what doesnt "work" has been interesting. Google searches bring up threads for this forum, but havent found any that apply to me yet. But I'm glad I found this forum because it sounds like there's a lot of knowledgeable folks on here. I have the Operator and repair manuals, but they seem to be lacking in the wiring diagram department. I can work on my 20 year old car and truck, and small engines. So, I found the fuse box and got my test light to explore. Oh, the tach works but the led hour meter is blank...and the repair manual is vague to say the least. Or, I'm not searching the index correctly. But, it starts right up, default indicators turn off, and works great. Even 4x4 works. The horn/flasher/turn/brake 20amp fuse was blown, so I put a new one in and turned the ignition on...and it sparked immediately. The L front turn bulb (1156) was dark metallic inside but filament looked intact. The other front, rear, and brake bulbs look good but not tested yet. I removed all turn bulbs and disconnected horn and horn switch. New fuse sparks immediately. Get continuity from fuse terminal (P19 red power lead wire) to ground (G20) on each turn signal lamp. Am I doing this backwards? Should I be placing red lead on power wire at turn signal lamp and common lead to a good chassis ground near the lamp? Decided to open the halogen work lamps (4 in front, 2 in back) and the white plug connectors are burnt brown but not melted. Dont know if it got hot in its past life, or me putting in the new fuse is charring things more and more? Removed all halogen lamps from connectors, front light switch, turn signal switch, rear light switch and new fuse sparks. Dang. Removed plug connectors from under control panel going to roof harness. Still get continuity beep from G20 grounds at turn lamps to fuse terminal (no key in ign when testing continuity). Traced P19 from fuse terminal down to where it enters frame via rubber grommet. Also a second P19 lead from horn button down through same grommet, but not going to fuse terminal that I can find yet. Nothing exposed or melted... Laying on the ground, I can see the bundle coming out of plastic conduit from the cab, and splitting into a wrap going to the steering column area (which has to have P19 x2 because I looked at all the other red leads not wrapped and none are P19), and 2 or 3 plug connectors going to transfer case, and yellows, purple, and greasy blacks or browns going forward (maybe engine compartment?). I found P19 at the hazard switch by the steering column. Disconnected, inspected the cannon plug (soaked in hydraulic fluid, no corrosion, pins good so far) and removed wrapping from grease/dirt infested harness from canon plug down to about where the top of the battery box (with black pre-engine cover removed) let's you see it dissapear toward the rear where it enters the cab via that rubber grommet under the control panel. Wrap appears to be intact down there. I cleaned and inspected the wires in the upper portion and cant find P19 because I think it rubbed off all the way along this portion between the battery box cover and cannon plug. But all red leads appear intact and not melted. I removed the flasher relay and still get beeps at G20. I'm just missing hearing the beep I guess. I know there must be a power line shorting to chassis or ground...but its buried somewhere. I go to the front where the single horn lead is disconnected and trace it about 3 inches until it disappears into a tightly wrapped larger harness at the rear of the engine, which I did by feel since I havent removed top engine cover yet. I guess I really thought it would be a rusty bulb causing an easy to fix issue. I'd really like to have a real wiring diagram at this point. Before I start removing what appears to be wraps tightly woven in good condition. And a second opinion. I popped the top of the cab to verify wraps, wires, shielding, and grounds are tight, not corroded, and intact. They look good. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. The repair manual says nothing about a computer, which I've been keeping an eye out for, since the parts guys said I could remove it, bring to them, and they'd pull the hours off it. Anybody able to verify this tractor would track hours via computer/ecm? And where and procedure for removal? And repair or replace tach and hour meter with analog hour meter? As the led hour meter tach combos are discontinued. Anybody have a wiring diagram for the fuse circuits and hour meter wiring so I can check them at least? And there are diodes on the L and R purple leads for the turn signals near the steering column. Do these cause issues like this? I pulled one off and dont get continuity through it. Never tested any before though. Is there a test for diodes? Thanks in advance!
Diode test is here https://www.fluke.com/en-ca/learn/b...f,resistance measurement required for testing .
Update: Two brake light switch plugs were shorting out. Not sure how they are supposed to go, as the manual is vague. But, after several configurations, the fuse doesnt pop, and the brake lights, horn, and turn signals are operational. I used an old motorcycle turn signal with bulb connected with one wire to load side of fuse terminal (I soldered red flat connectors to push down into the flat fuse terminal) and the other bulb wire to a 2amp trickle charger. The bulb stayed light on the circuit most of the day as I removed things and opened wraps to chase power leads, etc, until the brake light switched were removed (the bulb went out finally) and I cleaned the grease off them and found a configuration that works to install them.
Bummer. The fuse pops when brake pedal is depressed. I thought I pushed the pedal down hard enough during configurations, but I guess I didnt. Got it all wrapped back up, bulbs and lenses back on, headliner back on. And it pops. And now it wont start...hmmm.
Anybody have a 2000 310SE and can share a pic of the connector plugs and wiring for the brake light switches? Are they series or parallel? I may have bad hydraulic pressure switches. The grounds were melted through the connectors on both switches. I dont want to replace them until I know how it was supposed to go.
Sorry, don't have a picture, but looks like they are wired up parallel.
Can you tell if the red wires are forward? Making Brown wires rearward. Thx
Got a pic. P19 is the red wire. L46 is the brown wire.