I have a 2000 LS180 with the 3.2 liter in it. Two things, I am changing the oil. Drained the old and removed the filter. About 5 quarts of oil came out. Looking on the web (Ritchie Specs) shows 4.5 gallons of engine oil.....is this correct or is it 4.5 QUARTS ??? I know to fill and look at dipstick, just want to be sure before starting up. Also, mine came without a block heater. There appears to be a freeze plug on the right side of the block sitting almost horizontal. Is this where the block heater would be installed ? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks !
4.5 gallons for the engine is wrong. 4.5qts sounds a little low I was thinking it was 6 or so qts. It sounds like the right spot for the heater but haven't seen one in a while. These engine are normally easy to start into the single digits without heat or spray.
you were looking one line to high on Ritchie, rad cap is 4.5, oil is 2.1 gallons
I was looking at the wrong machine , I was looking at l180, the ls180b does say 4.5 though it doesn't sound right at all.
frogfarmer, here is a photo of the right side of the block. As you can see, just under the oil filter is what appears to be a freeze plug. I am ASSUMING this is on the cooling side with the proximity to the temp sending unit that is to the left of the freeze plug. Yes, it does start in single digits and I never sprayed it. I just like to be over cautious and ensure the block is warm and oil temp is adequate at start up to get to where it needs to be as soon as possible. $40 for the part is well worth it. stovein....when I drained the oil I was expecting 4.5 gals to come out, but only just more than a gallon did and the stick showed full BEFORE draining. Just being overly cautious before turning the key. Thanks for all of the input everyone !
Does it have the plastic pocket on the back of the seat where there should be a owners manual?
It has the plastic box but it is just like my head, empty
That is not for the heater.
That plug covers the oil pump drive. The water jackets are higher in the block.
thanks frogfarmer...I will look tomorrow....
I have several of those engines in tractors and none of them have heaters. One did have a heater installed in the lower rad hose but the cows ate the wires. They are very strong and can take a little spray but rarely need it. I have one with over 10,000hrs and when its 0 degs F It gets a shot after the white smoke starts.
I will take your advice.....it has 385 hours on it, didn't want to harm it. It sits inside an unheated building, so never colder than 20deg. But just like being over protective. Have a great weekend !
The block heater is on the left side of the engine looking at it from the radiator. This is the same engine as what came in the 3000 Ford tractors for years as gasoline or diesel. The freeze plug under the oil filter is where the distributor would go. The block heater works very well given a little time to work, plus it has a solenoid to put heated fuel into the intake manifold for cold starts. They are tough, well built engines which can stand a shot of either unlike a rice grinder. 2 gallons of oil will fill it. 11 gallons empty in the hydraulic system. If you need specs, I have my owner's manual. Also, look at a parts diagram on the New Holland parts page.
wrwtexan Found the freeze plug behind the starter...that is why I didn't see it the first time, or second ! Appreciate all of the input from everyone ! Have a great weekend !
We had a "mechanic" put five gallons in a SS engine. Ran fine for five minutes. After that it did not need diesel to run and never ran again after it locked up.
Seemed unrealistic since my RVs 300 Cummins doesn't even take 5 gal and the oil pan on it is bigger than my LS180 engine. That's why I came to you guys ! Again, thanks for the help. Now, gotta get ready for the 500 !
I installed the block heater today in my LS180. So for anyone wanting to do this...here is my 2 cents worth. The actual job took about 15 minutes. I did spend over an hour boom up to boom down though. Never removed a freeze plug before and if it were not for bad luck, I would have none at all. So off to Google I went and searched FREEZE PLUG REMOVAL. There were about a dozen or so videos out there. They made it look easy....but I still afraid I would push the plug into the block, it would then seal off a port for the water jacket and I would ruin my engine. So after about 30 minutes of watching the self help videos, off to the garage I went. Removed the Fuel Filter as the plug was partially behind it and the starter on the left side of the block. Took a flat end punch and hammer and tapped on the lip of the freeze plugs bottom edge. This caused the freeze plug to act like it had a hinge pin on it in the middle of the plug and the top flipped towards me, grabbed it with a pair of channel locks and a little tug and out it came. WOW, all that worrying for nothing ! Took some fine steel wool and cleaned out the sealant they used to keep the plug in place and from it leaking. Put alittle petroleum jelly on the o-ring that came with the block heater and pressed it in. Tightened up the screw that locked it in place. Refilled the antifreeze, replaced the fuel filter, and ran it for about 20 minutes. Topped off the anti-freeze after the thermostat opened up and ran it some more. No leaks. Again, thanks for the insight for the other issues I had !