I got this unit used. but the swing L and R is how i would expect the arm to go up/down. so when you push the control to the west, it moves the arm. to the east moves the arm. to the north swings L and to the south swings R. anyone know what ones i have to swap for the hydrolic feeds?
Whats the serial most likely a greymarket machine with a 4 pattern valve on it somewhere. If not the lines can ve switched will need the serial to tell you where
See the attachment for details of the pattern changer valve (if your machine has one).
ty!!
so you are correct, they have it messed up. but underneith where i will swap the hoses - i cant tell what hozes i need to swap.
Before doing anything please can you take a look at the two illustrations below. Do your machine controls conform to either one or other of these patterns.? Or if itdoes not conform to either of them, which pattern do you want to have.?
is this one, but its reversed. i think the hozes underneith are messed up from the last guy. prob didnt mark them. or it could be at the hydro pack, swapped wrong there. so currently, when i go to extend dipper - i get swing. all work, but its like teaching my brain a new thing every time i get into it. so figure id fix it.
OK, gotcha. Do me a favour, take a look at the main control valve where the pilot lines from the joystick valve connect. By any chance does each of the pilot lines have a different coloured plastic sleeve on it, right next to the fitting where it connects to the control valve.?
no luck on any color, but it looks like someone changed these hyro hoses at some point.
i see 6 of them comming into the joystick.
Those don't look like original hoses. The coloured sleeves would have made it easier. Note those sleeves are normally at the main hydraulic control valve end. Stand by. Time to put on the thinking cap....... Are there any letter markings on the underside of the joystick pilot valve.? These should be something like P, T, L1, L2, L3 & L4. In order to help look up information do you have a Serial Number.? Even if you can post a photo of the S/N plate that would help.
no serial, but i think the unit is a 2004 year from looking at other ones that were for sale. the plate is missing and i dont see any stamped numbers on the frame like i would in other cases. ill try to get a look, but i think i have to take off the hozes to get at the bottom of the joystick valve pac - its tight in there.
You shouldn't have to. The letters should be cast into the lower housing of the pilot valve, one right next to each port. Either on the bottom face or on the side. Unfortunately that's not much help. All parts and service information derives from the Serial Number.
i got this image from the bottom of the joystick. it does have number
That's what we were looking for.....!! Here's the Code for the ports:- P - pressure (input) oil to the valve. T - return to tank when the controls are in neutral. 1 & 3 - Stick in/out 2 & 4 - Swing left/right The issue I have is that there is no clear indication anywhere which one of ports 1 & 3 is "stick in" and which one is "stick out". Ditto for ports 3 & 4 for swing left/right. All I can suggest is that you swap the hose currently connected to Port 1 to Port 2 and vice versa. Maybe then test (carefully) and observe the results. If it does what you expect then swap the hose currently connected to Port 3 to Port 4 and vice versa.
That should be "Ports 2 & 4". My mistake.
im gonna do the swap today. should i be swaping 4 hozes? or just 2? my plan was to move 1/3 over to 2/4 and the 2/4 over to 1/3
My suggestion would be don't swap too much in one hit, it could lead to trouble. As I said earlier, I would only swap two hoses as a first step. Remove the hose that is now connected to Port 1 and connect it to Port 2 and vice versa. Then once you have done that you should VERY carefully test the pilot hydraulic functions to see whether or not the swap produced the required results. If it does - happy days. If the functions do not work as expected you may have to come back here for more advce/suggestions.
solved: i did the port 1 to 2. got progress. did 3 to 4 and was what i needed. controls operate perfectly now. thank you for all of the help. finally most of my repairs and fixes are done!