Just bought this truck so I'm starting a thread because I know I'll have tons of questions. My first "real" truck even though it's just a class 7. Starting with some preliminary info: 2004 International 7300 4x4 DT466 Allison MD3060-P
First question is about the transmission shifter. How do the mode and Allison symbol buttons work? And, more specifically, how do the modes D1 through D5 change how the transmission works?
Well that transmission is a strange one {there's no park mode}.
Park is the yellow handle on the dash I guess
Mine is Allison, but earlier. No park either.
Same type of shifter?
Mine is RND321 only. Park in Neutral
Happy reading. Google can be your friend. https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/transmissions/3000_4000_operators.pdf
Cool, thanks. I guess your Google fu skills are better than mine
Some interesting info in that manual Next question: it needs a hitch plate and pintle hitch. Recommendations for plate thickness and hitch capacity?
1/2" plate, Premier Brand hitch. Online catalog.
The Mode switch may or may not change shift points lock out gears ect depending on how it was programmed Nice looking truck
Look at mine if you like. Mine is 5/8" steel. Due to unusual dump geometry, mine is mounted to the dump body. I have very heavy duty dump hinges plus a 1-1/2" pin at front of body to hold front of body down. Hitch I just bought to freshen up my truck came from Weaver Distributing. I also have a 3" receiver below the pintle for other trailers, also from Weaver. I assume they have a website, but I have a catalog. I usually call. Don't get the best informed employee first, but I always get a call back quickly.
Thanks for the info guys. My 550 has a 1/2" plate so I figured I'd need thicker for this truck. Or at least higher grade steel. Looked at Premier and Weaver. Now I have to decide!
Now I'm intrigued to see how you have it mounted to the dump body. Maybe I'll have to take a Sunday afternoon drive over the mountains to take a look sometime. One thing that surprised me about the pintles is that they don't seem to have more than 6000 lb tongue weight rating until you get to 30 ton capacity or so.
I may end up going with a 30 ton like that one. I'm sure it would exceed anything the truck is capable of. I was originally planning to get a 20 or 25 ton but as mentioned they seem to all have 6000 lb vertical load limit.
Unless you like it banging back and fourth-air hitch.
Congrats on the truck! I like the 4x4, it'd be nice sometimes to have a small 4x4 dump on some of our work sites. As other's have said 1/2" - 5/8" plate and 30 ton pintle, the bigger the better on hitch IMO just for the safety factor. The weight of the larger hitch is negligible so might as well have the peace of mind.
My truck is 28000 GVWR, trailer is 23000 GTWR. I can't imagine wanting a lighter hitch.
An air comp hitch would be sweet. But 45 ton seems to be the smallest with that option. My trailer has a GVW of 24446 lbs. I could technically use a 15 ton hitch. It's possible someday I'll have a bigger trailer but I can't imagine ever trying to tow more than 40000 lbs with this truck. I'll probably end up getting a 30 ton regular pintle hitch, mainly for the higher vertical load rating. If only the air ones weren't so expensive... P.s. any thoughts on swivel?
I'm not the expert, but I've driven over some pretty rough terrain, never needed a swivel. I'm not sure how much articulation is possible without. Mine is two channels vertical from the dump frame which extends rearward a couple feet past the dump pivot. A diagonal brace spans from this channel to dump frame. A box of same channel surrounds the hitch plate. I'd like to move mine forward about a foot. It'll clear the trailer jack as long as I'm level. I feel moving the hitch closer to the axle will improve the hopping. Went to Plainfield NH yesterday, 16000-17000 LB backhoe, route 12? was terrible rough, rear hop was pretty bad. Got to VT side of the river, it all went away.
Time for some fab work
I've been told the swivel is to prevent the truck from rolling over if your trailer flips over. Sounds like a lot of Yankee ingenuity went into the hitch. Did you build it?
"I've been told the swivel is to prevent the truck from rolling over if your trailer flips over." Slow down for corners. In a perfect world, you won't flip the truck either. "Did you build it?" No I bought a 1976 C65 from the most terrifying city I've ever been in. I guess this was installed by the dump body dealer. On this "new" truck, it sits taller. Other hitch geometry might behave better. I feel it wants to be closer to the rear axle. In fact, I'd consider a gooseneck on this one.
Some goodies showed up today.
50 ton should do it! I hope you never see anything close to that. 15 years ago an excavator bought a new to him excavator. He was on his way to pick it up, I asked what size? He replied 20 ton, that's all you can tow behind a tandem dump. For a number of years that seemed to hold true, lately I see a few triaxle trailers labeled 25 or 30 ton. I presume that is gross weight. A 25 ton trailer must weigh close to 10,000 LBS but I don't know that.
I put a 3" receiver in mine also. The trailers I might tow with receiver hitch wouldn't exceed 10,000 LBS, but the dump body overhangs quite a lot, I'll need an extension to tow the camper or any other trailer with much stuff mounted on the tongue. I kind of doubt I'll ever use the receiver.
I decided I wanted an air compensated hitch, and the 50 ton was the cheapest. I really liked the look of the premier brand ones but they're so expensive. This one is overkill to say the least. I probably won't tow small trailers with this truck but wanted the option just in case my other truck is down when I need to tow the mower or boat, etc
Ready to work (almost)
This truck has a direct drive hydraulic pump off the front of the crankshaft. When it's real cold it puts a lot of load on the starter trying to turn on the cold engine oil and hydraulic oil. Any ideas of how to disconnect the pump for starting purposes? I've seen a similar system on a skidder, where you flip a lever to disconnect the hydraulic pump, start the engine, then shut it back off and re-engage after engine is up to temp.
I wanted to add a pump front of engine. The Abbots bought a used Town truck with one, it seemed the way to do it. I'd swear their IH is belt drive? I couldn't do it because the core of the radiator is directly in line with the crank. I ended up with PTO pump. It wasn't easy to find. I made the mistake of used PTO units. I bought three, all damaged in removal from the donor. Ultimately, I bought new from Fleet Pride. I believe $1300. covered PTO, pump, controls & shim kit.
The radiator core is above the crank on this one. Chester town trucks have special radiators with a hole for the shaft. Apparently it's difficult to work on them. But I believe their pumps are able to be destroked somehow. There is an electric circuit going to the pump which is to control the displacement I assume. I also have a PTO pump for the dump body. Must be it didn't have enough flow for the plow and sander circuits as well.
If your not using the front pump at all just pop the driveshaft off its four bolts holding it to the crank pulley I have never seen a plow truck with 2 pumps and cant imagine any good reason why but if your not plowing it might work out great for you By the way I never disconnect the front pumps at -25f they make some noises but crank right over plugged in of course
I do use the plow, so I can't completely disconnect it. As far as I can tell, this truck was originally spec'd for NH air force. Not sure why they set it up this way. There is no block heater, DT466 has no glow plugs or preheater of any sort that I can find. It started fine at 5 F, no go at 10 below. Switching to a lighter grade oil would probably help.
With help, blow a heat gun into the air intake. Do it a while before trying to start. Simultaneously heat the batteries will help. It's so much less violent than ether. My Case 580 Super N calls for 0W-40 oil year round, thinner than water.
I drove a municipal plow truck in the late 70s and back then the front pump had a cable to engage and disengage it. Sounds like they aren't doing that anymore?
Are you planning on putting in an air tailgate actuator? If you do this is what I use: https://mpparts.com/part/automann-179-sc30rl-tailgate-chamber-with-long-push-rod-179sc30rl Also, good for you getting the air pintle. I never had a problem with the truck being slammed back and forth when I had a standard pintle, however a friend of mine told me once about when he was pulling wiggle wagons and stopped into the scales they pulled him aside and pointed at the pintle connection and he said he saw with wide eyes his pintle latch was open but the air actuator had held it for 40 miles
I had an early 90s international plow truck with a DT466 and Allison transmission (MT653). Mine had a block heater for those extra cold days. Hit up the Google machine, or call your IH dealer and get a block heater for your truck. They are very simple to install and make a world of difference in reliably cold starting the engine. My truck was mechanical injection, and started really quick down to about 20F. Below that and it cranked a little more before starting, but always started.
Doesn't appear to be on this truck anyway. But it sounds like a good simple way to do it.
Yes I was planning to upgrade to air tailgate at some point. Thanks for the tip. I originally wasn't going to get the air hitch but changed my mind before I ordered parts. I'm thinking I'll like having it.
I found a block heater listed online but it's out of stock (big surprise). I'll try calling the dealer tomorrow. It just surprised me that it didn't already have one since it's been in NH & VT all it's life. Supposed to be 12 below zero (Fahrenheit) at 7 tomorrow morning. We'll see if she wants to go or not. Haven't been driving it regularly so the batteries probably aren't topped up.
So it seems that zero Fahrenheit is where the oil gets too thick for it to start. So I picked up a block heater today. Along with some other goodies
I'm not convinced it's about oil getting thick. New oil is pretty resistant to thickening. I've heard some experts claim -10 lead acid batteries give out 40% of their power compared to summer. A diesel engine gets ignition by compressing the heat of a large cylinder of air into a small space. Same value of BTUs in smaller space, temperature rises. Sometimes it only needs a small supplement of heat. Some engines get grid heaters in the air intake, amazing how well they work. I've used a heat gun down the air intake, even a hair dryer helps.
I'm thinking it's the hydraulic oil that puts so much extra load on it when it's this cold. The pump whines something awful when it does start at cold temps. I did think about adding a grid heater but didn't spend a lot of time looking for one. I need to get a cordless Milwaukee heat gun for when I don't have access to AC power
Getting ready to mount the fenders. Any tips or guidelines for drilling the frame? I may be able to use 2 pre existing holes but the others will need drilled.
If possible, stay away from the top inch & bottom inch.
Good to know. After a little more looking, I may be able to remove one of the studs that holds the overload spring perch to the frame and use a longer bolt for both the perch and fender bracket. Any reason not to do this?
I think frame rivets must either be put there hot, or headed under extreme hydraulic pressure. Blacksmiths use the word "upset" The shank of them are squeezed until they are whiskey barrel shaped, to be very tight in the hole. They are not easy to remove, and impossible to replace as tightly with a bolt. I think I'd opt for new holes mid rail. Keep them small as possible. Frame bolts are strong, likely greater than grade 8. They have flanged head & nut, fine thread. Most are serrated to grip the frame & not loosen.
I,m pretty sure your engine has a grid heater. There should be a preheat light in the instrument cluster.
Good points Willie. But these don't seem to be rivets or bolts. They look like a pressed in stud like used for the wheels. I wouldn't consider it for the main spring perches, but this would just be one of three for the overload spring perches. I take some pictures later on. Mekanik, here is a picture of the dash when keyed on. I'll investigate the intake plumbing next time I have the hood open.
Pipe from turbo to intercooler Pipe from intercooler to intake manifold Where would a grid heater normally be?
Pics of spring perch/stop bolts or whatever they are
Those are huck bolts.
You do not have a intake pre-heater.
Good to know what they're called. Your thoughts on removal and replacement with a regular bolt?
Could/should I add one? I think it would be advantageous in situations where I don't have access to power for the block heater, or time to allow it to warm up. https://www.rattlintruck.com/i-1626-sure-start-inline-universal-grid-heater.html
I don't think I would bother. The DT466 starts easily when cold.
That is true. Thanks for the advice!
I'm not a truck mechanic. I really don't know anything about removing factory hardware like you are asking. That said, a light hand with a torch on the bolt, or a grinder, would remove the huck bolt easily enough.
Understood. Thanks!
I wonder how they are tightened? Don't look as though a wrench would fit nut or bolt.
They aren't a true bolt. You have to have a special installation tool to install that swage locks them together.
That's pretty cool.
I'm finally getting back to working on this truck. I've seen some trucks with a spacer between the truck frame and the dump body frame. Sometimes steel, sometimes rubber. Other trucks, nothing at all. What's the reasoning for any of these options?
Mainly to stop wear on the top of rail, sometimes it's because the pin bosses were installed on truck first and box bought later.
That makes sense, thanks
On the shifter, you are setting the maximum gear, it will drive like the auto in a pickup otherwise. Put it in 5 and forget about it. If you think it's not downshifting enough on hills you can shift it down to get more engine braking. If you pick too low of gear it most likely won't grab the gear or basically act like it's in neutral till the engine rpms would be in range then it might grab the gear. I don't think the 3000 has a deep reduction first but if it does it won't use 1st at all unless you put it in that gear. On the pto does yours have a front engine pto?
When I bought the C65 with Heil Dump body It had wooden strips installed as a padding between. I believe it wasn't routed for rivet heads, they just compressed into the wood over time. This being VT, salt was pretty hard on the truck frame. The wood kept it wet much longer than it would have stayed wet otherwise. I bought the 1976 truck 29 years old from a summer only business in PA. Frame looked very good. 15 years later in VT, it didn't look near as good. I shy away from anything where two layers are sandwiched together. Where something does have to bolt to the frame, I use rustproof grease between layers.
Ok, that's good info. It has a hydraulic pump on the trans pto, and also a pump on the front of the crankshaft
I agree, less places for salt and moisture to hide is better. Once I'm done with all the fab work I will give it a good dose of NH oil.
What does the crank pto do? The crank pto is on all the time, you will have to see what kind of pump it is. If it looks like a normal pump look at the pressure line to see if there is a tee and a valve to the tank. If so you open that valve and the pump can't build any pressure and just flows to the tank. If there is none you can put a tee and a valve to the tank to 'turn off' the hydraulic pump. Works but not the best. If the pump doesn't look like a simple normal one it should be a variable displacement pump, which is the correct application for a crank pto pump. There is a lever on them operated by a push pull cable, air, or electric to vary the displacement from full to minimum. At min it will flow about 1 gpm to keep the pump lubricated and this is essentially off. The lever may not be visible from the outside.
Modes on the trans I don't really know about, economy probably makes it shift later. I'd just keep it in power mode you don't want a auto to be on fluid drive much it heats them up and burns them out. Keep trans 220 and under, 240+ bring money with you.
Sorry I've been meaning to take a picture of the crank pump but keep forgetting. There are no controls on the pump, only two hoses. I'll have to look at the pressure line. This truck was built in 04 so I doubt it's a variable displacement pump. I'll have to report back after I get a chance to play with the modes on the transmission. It doesn't have a trans temp gauge so maybe I should look into adding one.
This pump is for the plow and sander. The trans pto pump is for the dump
I figured it was for the plow. If it were mine I'd try to install a tee and valve in the new tees side to the tank so you can "turn off" the pump. I dislike running hydraulics when your not using them.
There are two U-joints in the shaft driving the pump. neglecting them can be catastrophic.
Looks like a conventional gear pump, open center. Oil not doing work flows to the tank. These suck engine power, but are otherwise trouble free. I wanted it for my dump system but geometry prohibited it. I ended up with PTO with married pump for dump hydraulics.
I've made slow progress on this truck over the summer. Finally have hinges built and lift cylinder roughed in. Still need to build the doghouse and modify the cab shield. When I wanted to test my work, the cylinder leaked badly (used craigslist deal). So I took it back off and was able to get two of the stages apart but can't get the brass nut off the biggest one. Any ideas? It won't even budge
Torch and pipe wrench? Air chisel? My only ideas but I am kind of a hack...
I must be kind of a hack as well because I tried all of those! The brass is just so soft it's deforming and won't move.
Ratchet strap? Lol probably can't get enough torque. Maybe a chain tong
Too bad its brass or I'd say weld something to it
Did you try to shrink it?
I guess I need to get a longer handle chain wrench. And maybe try shrinking it. I assume you are referring to dry ice or similar?
Take a torch and heat it up, take a smoke break and let it cool down and the metal will shrink, then try it.
I'm trying to understand the brass. I see female thread inside the steel barrel. I presume there must be male thread outside the barrel & Female in the brass, but I don't see them. Do you know the brass comes off? Might repack be accomplished without removing the brass part?
Cfherrman, I did try heating the steel barrel and letting it cool. I'll try it with just the brass. Willie, I was able to get the brass nuts off the top two stages. The threads you are seeing are from the next stage that is pushed back into the lowest barrel. Here are some pictures to help clarify
It looks like there is a lock pin drilled and staked in place.
Yes, there was a brass pin there. I drilled it completely out so it shouldn't be restricting removal of the nut.
Can you borrow or rent a big chain wrench?
I think that will have to be my next option
Finished a job a little early today so spent some time this afternoon building a wrench. After about an hour of pounding on the wrench handle with a 3 lb hammer and heating the barrel and reinforcing the wrench several times, I was able to get a little over one full turn on the nut. It is VERY tight. Regular work for a day or two will give my arm a little time to recover for the next round.
Wow, good you got it moving
Well I gave up on that Mailhot cylinder. I did finally get the nut removed, but must have deformed the cylinder wall in the process because the barrel gets hung up when I try to pull it apart. I installed a new cylinder from Northern tool, which I'm hoping will have enough force to dump a full load. We will see. More recently I've been working on the pintle hitch and trailer wiring. I need to be able to tow an electric brake trailer, so now I'm installing the brake controller. I'm trying to find the best location to install the double check valve that will supply signal air to the controller. The diagram that came with the controller is very basic and I'm not very familiar with air systems. Does anyone have some pointers on where to plumb this in?
Also, I'll need to plumb the pintle plunger at some point. What's the proper way to do that? I've read about some guys tee-ing into the lines that release the parking brakes, but I wasn't sure if that's the correct way to do it.
Your trailer is a bit heavier than mine. Mine gets signal for the electric brake control from the brake light switch, not from truck air.
I really don't think you need to cut both lines and install a double check valve. The two delivery ports are one for rear axle application and one for steer axle and trailer application. I have installed a few air over electric controllers using the rear axle application line to activate them. If you had a trailer air service line then that is the one you would connect it to. Normally the trailer emergency air goes to operate the pintle plunger. You should be safe tapping into the air that releases the rear park brake chambers. Be VERY careful working under that elevated box!
Probably not much heavier. But I don't like the basic brake controllers that are just on or off. This one senses the air pressure and applies the trailer brakes proportionally.
Ok, that makes sense. Maybe I'll put a ball valve in as well so I can shut it off if need be. Thanks, I use a prop when working under the raised box
I've had several styles. Current one increases trailer brake the longer brake lights stay on. Others have had a pendulum to increase braking based on how steep the hill is.
There is a HEF member that was working underneath a truck that had a slightly raised bed. He cracked a hydraulic line or valve while he was using his other hand to prop himself against the frame. Bed came down and crushed his fingers. This happened within the last couple years, 2019 or 2020 maybe. Definitely use a prop everytime the bed is up.
I remember reading about that. Not worth the risk
A number of years ago a local contractor was doing the same thing except he was leaning over the frame rails. I know several members of the fire department and they said it was the most gruesome sight they had ever dealt with. Left a family behind. I stress this over and over with my crew, NEVER allow yourself under anything suspended by hydraulics. You can't undo the damage done by a moment of carelessness.
Wow that's a shame. Did he lose his fingers? Or just crush them badly?
Here is his thread. The member is @determined HeavyEquipmentForums
Since the brake controller will be in the cab, it makes sense to tie into the brake circuit close to the treadle valve I assume. Here's a picture of the valve. I'm not sure which line to tie into. Any suggestions?
I would be hesitant of disturbing the push in connections on the foot valve as they may leak afterwards.
Ok, so better option would be to cut the line downstream of the valve and add a tee?
Yes figure out which line comes from the delivery port to the rear relay valve. A 1/4" line will be more than adequate.
Hitch installed. Hitch plunger plumbing and trailer wiring done
Waiting on parts for the brake controller and tailgate latch.
Ok, today I got the brake controller wired and plumbed. But I'm either a complete idiot and connected something wrong or I'm not understanding the purpose of the check valve. Or maybe both! When I apply the brake, the controller activates like it should, but with the check valve in the line, the built up pressure can't escape when I release the pedal, and the trailer brakes stay activated. It seems like there shouldn't be a check valve in the line, and then the pressure in the line to the controller can bleed off along with the pressure in the service brake lines. Can someone set me straight on this?
First time hooked up to the trailer
Can you post the installation instructions?
I like that setup. Short, maneuverable. Something like that would work well for me. Do you have a plow for the front of the truck?
Yeah, just a one way plow. Isn't much good for plowing driveways. I'm hoping to find an all angle plow for it at some point, or put some fisher push plates on it for my XV2
Did the check valve come with the brake controller? can you post a pic of the valve and how its installed. Was the truck plumbed by the factory for towing an air brake equipped trailer?
It didn't come with a check valve. It said to use a two way check valve but you had suggested that I could just use the delivery line for the rear brakes since this truck doesn't have trailer air. The instructions say to use a regular check valve on older trucks with a single air system so I just plugged one of the inlet ports on the double check valve. But then I had the problem with it just accumulating air pressure in the controller line. I took out the check valve altogether yesterday and it works fine without it. I just can't comprehend why they call for a check valve in a single air system. I guess it would probably work properly with the double check valve if my truck had trailer air that I tied into as well.
Your right With a dual air system if there was a failure and you lost pressure in one system the double check valve would allow the side that worked to apply the trailer electric brake controller. I can't understand why they would want a check valve with a single system.
Ok thanks for your input, I'll just go without the check valve. I can always apply the trailer brakes manually. Now I just need to get the trailer brakes adjusted so they don't lock up when it's empty...
Dog house is built and got the headboard reinstalled finally.
Installed the tailgate chamber this morning. What's the best place for an air source? There are spare ports on the air tanks, but something I was reading mentioned that some trucks have an air distribution box under the dash. I didn't see anything that looked like that on this truck, but maybe it has one somewhere else?
Most that I have worked on use a pressure protection valve at the tank then run the lines to your switch The pressure protection valve serves to protect your air supply in case the accessory circuit fails it will shut off flow at a preset low pressure point
That makes sense. I found a union in this white line that I'm planning to replace with a tee. It looks like it's connected to a pressure protection valve to me:
Any ideas where I might get more switch inserts for this switch panel? It has a Pollak part number on the back: 32289. But that seems to be for the whole panel. I just need the individual switches.
The switches are already installed in the switch pack, you just need the plastic rocker and the insert that tells what the switch is for. However to make the switch work you need to have dealer involved because the switch pack is multiplexed to the body controller. International calls it custom logic that needs to written and programmed into the body controller so the switch will work for the application you need. You may also need to install a RPM or "remote power module" to get the output connector if there is not a spare one. It would be simpler and way less expensive to just put a good old toggle switch in the dash somewhere.
Gee! I hadn't realized that beast was 4X4! I have a new respect for it.
Yes, there are 6 holes in this panel, the first two obviously have switches in them, the middle two are like you say with the switches already installed on the circuit board, but the last two are empty so I could put a basic rocker switch in there. I was just hoping I could find some that matched the existing switches. Sounds like international went out of their way to make it overly complicated...
Keith, On your truck(s), do you have additional springs that hold the latch closed, or is the internal chamber spring strong enough on it's own? It seems pretty strong to me, but I'm not sure what it'll do with a full load.
I only use the internal spring. I set mine up with a tensioner as well, so that when it is in the closed position, it is pulling with some strength on the dogs to hold it closed nice and tight. I had this setup on 2 trucks. A bobtail, similar to yours with a 6 yard bed, and a 10 wheeler. Never had any problems even when using it as an onsite truck and way overloading it. Also, it works great for tailgating, even with all the weight of the material pushing against the gate with the bed up, it doesn't move.
Great, exactly what I was hoping! Thanks
I'm thinking about swapping to a manual transmission, but not sure how much torque the transfer case can handle since a manual transmission would likely have deeper reduction than the Allison (thinking about an 8LL possibly). This is the transfer case on this truck: I did some quick searching but couldn't find any info on this specific model. Maybe my next step should be calling Meritor.
Why ? you have low for deep reduction
The gears are too far apart. It'll be hitting the rev limit in one gear, and then upshift and the revs drop below the turbo and it can't keep up. I figured an 8 or 10 speed would give me closer ratios. Not set on the 8LL
There should be a aluminium tag somewhere on the transfer case that will identify it. With that info you should be able to find all the info on Meritor's website.
Hmm, automatics have torque multiplication from stalling the torque converter. I really don't think it would be fun to do a trans swap like that
So the automatic is essentially capable of a deeper reduction than it's lowest ratio when starting from a stop? It probably wouldn't be a fun project. I'm just trying to determine if it's even feasible at the moment.
My old C65 Chevy had two speed rear (Eaton), Can't remember low gear ratio, but very low, 8:1? & 5 speed (Eaton) 427 gas tall block GM motor. New Top Kick, very similar size. Towing a backhoe up the paved hill on Danby Mountain Road parts are 15% grade. Old truck would run out of gas in the carburetor if the tank wasn't full, until I found a cracked O ring on a fuel filter cannister. When it WAS running right it'd be a high stress situation. Low/low full throttle, I wasn't sure if it was going to make it. More than once I'd unload at the bottom of the hill, & drive the backhoe to the top. Being near the top is a frightening situation when the truck won't pull it! "New" truck is the same size, 500 LB more GVWR, empty truck 300 LBS heavier. Turbo diesel Cat 3208 10.4 liter is rated same HP as the 427 in the old truck. Axle is 4.99 approx. Allison crawls up slowly, but without effort. Only concern is traction, as The Allison goes to low gear & the torque converter then makes up the difference. My engine has most torque under 2000 RPM, so I keep engine at 1800-2000 & it does the rest. I agree, some situations a manual transmission is better, & I love going through the gears, it's fun! In truth Allison is a great transmission & nothing climbs like an Allison. Allison demonstrates their ability to start halfway up a steep hill. Quite remarkable how it can feed just over zero speed to the wheels to get started without the sudden surge of power that'll break traction.
Yes but I have limited understanding of it and it also matters of your torque converter, there will be some situations where a manual would get you up a hill from a stop but the auto won't make it without a run up. Is your transfer case connected to the trans or something s there a drive shaft in-between?
This truck has a axle gear ratio 5.86. I have not yet been able to find out the transmission gear ratios yet. The engine is rated at 215 HP, 560 ft lbs torque. I was using it on a job a couple weeks ago (first job I've actually used it for other than plowing), and it really had a difficult time on the hills, even empty. On one hill that isn't even very steep, it would drop down to 35 MPH in a 50 MPH zone when empty. Turns out I had a brake dragging so I'm sure that's some of the problem, but I still think the gears are too far apart for the power (or lack of) the engine has. Maybe instead of swapping in a manual transmission I should be looking for a more powerful engine instead...
There is a short driveshaft between the transmission and transfer case.
Really I think your truck is fine. You could probably look at some mods for the dt466 I'm sure there is a bunch out there if you could get it to 300 HP.
Divorced
Found it! Haven't been able to find anything on their website for the 4208GS version though. Maybe it's old enough that they don't have the info readily available for it. The info I've found is for the 4208XL and 4208 10X.
Hopefully after this brake job I will have better luck on the hills. If it can maintain 50mph empty on the gentle hills I'll quit whining! I am interested in the engine mods though. 300 HP would be a nice improvement over 215.
I met a guy who pulled modified tractors. He used DT466, said he gets 1200 HP from them. Claimed it is the toughest crank & he buys them cheaper than any other engine. That said, he lied about everything else he told me.
Lol that's funny. Dt466 is a really good engine I bet there is plenty of mod support and info out there.
Almost ready to reassemble.
Brake job is done, now I need to test it out and see if it can go up hills without losing so much speed when empty. It does seem a bit more "free" when moving it around the yard.
Well, it still is struggling quite a bit on the hills. I was talking with a local guy who has a 4400 that is the same year and also has the DT466, but his has a manual transmission. His does much better, I think because there isn't so much RPM difference between the gears. Though it is also possible that his 466 is higher rated than mine. I think I either need to increase the power somehow, or change the transmission to get more gears so I can take advantage of the power that I have.
I find manually shifting my allison's in steep hills does help. But the reality of it is- you have similar short steep hills in VT as what I have here, and its not going to drive like a car. A drop from 50 to 30mph on a hill doesn't surprise me at all. Realize that the "dump truckers" in your area are probably similar to here. They probably only weigh another 5,000 or so lbs more than you empty, but they are running N-14, 3406, 12.7 detroits with 1,400-1,800 ft lbs of torque in those big block engines. Empty- they will accelerate like a car. The 466 and a allison is a good engine and transmission combo in a medium duty truck, changing to a manual isn't going to help that much. If you are really wanting upgrades, you would be better off spending your money on a "cut down" bigger truck, than trying to make your 466 something its not. Guys here will take a tandem dump with big block power, and cut down to single axle with short dump for their site trucks. Hp doesn't matter near as much as torque specs when your discussing hill climbing. And there's no replacement for displacement. (Bigger engines put out more power).
I'd definitely look into raising boost, cheap and effective.
Mine is a whole lot different than your truck. Mine is Cat 3208 10.4 Liter with low boost turbo rated 250 HP. I'm not sure of the torque I think about 800 Ft Lbs. Empty the truck with my fat ass weighs about 14000. I'll skate up 11/30 from Manchester to Bromley at near speed limit empty. At 28000, it's flashers & 25 MPH. With trailer & 16000 backhoe I might be down to 15 MPH part of the hill. It is not a Corvette! I've considered adding boost to the engine, my transmission is rated for 250 HP. Maybe a whole different truck but this one is paid for. I think I'm going to be patient on the long steep hills when I'm loaded.
Can you post or PM me the last eight of the VIN. I can look up the engine power rating you might be able to flash a higher HP firmware into the ECM.
I don't expect it to drive like a car, and I agree that going from 50 to 30 on a hill is normal when loaded. But doing that empty seems a bit anemic. I should have been more specific about changing the transmission. I agree that going from a 5 speed auto to a 6 speed manual wouldn't help much, but going to a 10 or 13 speed should help because the gears would be closer together. The main problem with the Allison is the gear spread is too wide. The engine hits the rev limit before upshifting, and then after shifting it's back down below the turbo and has very little torque and can't maintain speed. This is the way I understand it, but I could be way off.
4J087948. Thanks, that would be great. I wonder if since it's a Gov spec vehicle the power/torque rating would have been set up differently than a civilian vehicle would have been.
I don't have a boost gauge yet so I don't know what it's making. I think the truck empty is about 15000 lbs. There is no way it would go up 11 from Manchester to Bromley anywhere near speed limit empty. Loaded I would probably be 15 mph also. Maybe less. I'm not sure what my transmission is rated for but some quick searching brings up 300 HP or more depending on the year or other variables.
From the Navistar site: ENGINE, DIESEL {International DT466 Standard Torque} EPA 1998, Electro-Hydraulic Fuel System, 215HP @ 2300/2600 RPM, 560 lb-ft Torque @ 1400 RPM, 2600 RPM Governed Speed, 225 Peak HP (Max) I believe the highest HP rating for the DT466e was 230 HP.
Thanks, I figured this was the standard torque version. I've read that the high torque version has ratings up to 300 HP, but also has different hardware (pistons connecting rods, injectors, etc).
I believe the HT570 was a DT466 with a longer stroke crank to give it more displacement and power. The early electronic DT466 was never a powerhouse but they sure lasted.
Maybe I'll just slap a SMV symbol on the tailgate and leave the powertrain alone! Anyway, today I'm working on installing a 2-1/2" receiver tube. The question is, do I leave it sticking out behind the hitch plate, or recess it flush with the surface?
I like the clean look of flush but, I kept mine out so I don’t have to lay on the ground to put the pin in.
In reality, I probably won't be using it much so I'll probably have it flush. Not a big deal to reach around to access the pin if it's only a few times a year
Pretty important the weld be either gapped, or a filet. Mine sticks out enough to get the pin in.
I was planning to use my Hobart 140 with 0.023" solid wire, should be good for 8 tons
OK never mind.
A little less of a sore thumb with the yellow paint covered up now!
Next project: engine braking of some sort. This truck has no exhaust brake or transmission retarder. From what I've read, the DT466 cannot be retrofitted with a Jake brake. The service brakes do work well but I would like to add an exhaust brake for a little additional braking. Any suggestions?
Does your trans keep the torque converter locked when your slowing down?
Yes, until it gets to first gear I believe, or maybe until it gets below a certain speed, I'm not sure exactly.
Looks like PacBrake might work for you.
I installed an exhaust brake on a DT466 a couple years ago. The dealer charged $400 to have the custom logic written for the body controller. We re-flashed the body controller. The install of the brake and associated parts was simple enough. The customer felt that for the cost it was not worth the tiny bit of engine braking that resulted. I installed exhaust brakes on two Cummins 8.3 mechanical engines as well. The Cummins required heavier exhaust valve springs installed. Both customers felt that for the small amount of engine braking it was not worth the cost.
Thanks for the recommendation James. And Mekanik, thanks for the first hand experience, exactly what I was looking for.
I can't say what happens internally. If I understand my transmission is similar to yours except you have an extra gear below mine. In both cases top two gears lock up if within 5% of input shaft speed. In mine, I come down a very steep hill fully loaded, it rises to 2500 RPM in bottom gear & won't speed above that. Wednesday Roger called, Did I want some barnyard cleanings. His sin Ben loaded 11 yards of dirt & manure mixed. I'll estimate by tires & springs 9 tons. I made two trips. Bromley road is steep as a calf's face, tractor trailers do not make it. The truck roars to maybe 3000 RPM then something recognizes how steep & engages. Seems to slow to 2500 RPM not more. I inched down at perhaps 10 MPH without touching the brake.
Does yours have a transmission retarder? Redline on my engine is 2600 rpm.
I bought it from a fire department West Weathersfield. I have no information except it seems to wind out to higher speed as much as 3000 climbing. I've seen figures but may not remember accurately. I feel redline is 3200, peak horsepower is 3000, & peak torque is 1700? If I'm very patient ( paved hill Danby Mountain Road) it's 1800-2000, it'll climb no problem, lowest gear, plenty of torque converter. The other day, Bromley road falls 400 feet elevation in half mile. It was sort of a surprise to see it rise to 2500 RPM but not speed up beyond.
Probably doesn't have a transmission retarder. Mine doesn't either, but it would be nice.
Just make sure you watch the trans temp
I was offered a set of 24.5" wheels and tires. I currently have 11R22.5 tires. First, I'm wondering if the wheel mounts are the same between the two sizes (I assume they are but this is my first truck so I'm not sure if center hole sizes are standardized. I know on pickup trucks they vary quite a bit). My quick tape measure comparison seems to say they are the same. The 24.5" are 285/75R24.5 so they should be almost exactly the same height as 11R22.5. Any reason not to use them?
I guess I need to get a transmission temp gauge...
Yes you do
Got my sideboards finished and installed
Blew a seal in the steering gear today. It's a Sheppard M100. Any tricks to getting the pitman arm off?
You can usually pull them with a claw puller. There is a special puller for them. There are timing marks on the shaft and arm.
Thanks. I ordered the hex bit so once that comes in tomorrow I can try to get the bolt out. What's your recommendation for fluid to use in the power steering system. The dealer just told me "regular power steering fluid, not transmission fluid".
What was in there? If it was red I'd just use ATF.
There wasn't anything in there after the seal blew out The remnants were pretty dark like used gasoline motor oil. Definitely not ATF. I picked up a gallon of "regular power steering fluid" from Napa today.
ATF, Hydraulic oil, power steering fluid will all work. There should be a filter in the reservoir. It wouldn't hurt to replace it, it's probably original.
This sucker is tight
Thanks for the tip, I didn't know there was a filter in there. I ordered a new one.
Once you get the puller bolt as tight as you dare give the end of the puller bolt a good whack with a hammer. The arm should pop off. If you clean the bolt head that holds the pitman arm on it should have the torque spec stamped into it.
Tried that. Also tried rattling on it with an air hammer, and heating it and everything else I can think of. Maybe I need a bigger hammer
They can be a real pain to pull off. Don't get carried away with the heat though.
What does carried away mean? Red hot? Even if I ruin the arm, I still need to get it off or I lose the core refund. I'm almost ready to start at it with a cutting wheel on the grinder...
You do not want to heat discolour it as in turning it blue. A new arm is not a lot of cash if you have to cut it.
Finally got it off! I heated it to about 1000 °F and with just the puller it wouldn't come off. Then a friend came by with some cold chisels and we drove them between the gear case and the pitman arm. The combination of that and heating to about 600 did the trick. Now I won't have to pay the core charge, or buy a new arm. Thanks for all the help Terry!
I would be replacing the arm. The heat may have damaged it.
Ok. At what temp would you say the blueing happens?
Blue on steel is 575° Idk cast iron or cast steel
Pitman on these is Forged not Cast. Change it.
I asked the dealer about it because the pitman arm is 2 days longer to arrive than the gearbox. They said no need to replace it I'm not sure I want to take that chance.
My thought is this is not under great strain, Cast steel gets heated every day. Big old chunk with no particular reason to build it out of extreme steel. I'll bet it is cast steel with no heat treat.
Maybe I should put the $400 dollar question to a vote!
Reman gear, new pitman arm. Redneck torque wrench
You know how to bleed it and set the stops?
It came with comprehensive installation instructions, so I do now!
I was changing front tires today and noticed a little play in the ball joints. Are there any special tools required to replace them on this truck?
Forgot the picture
Another one
Is the movement in the pivots or the wheel bearing? Or maybe both. How much play is there pivots? If memory serves me correctly they are tapered roller bearings. A small amount of play is acceptable. How are the front tires wearing. Does the steering pull to one side? Can you measure the play at the outer edge of the tire with a dial indicator?
What I noticed was vertical movement of the knuckle in relation to the axle when I jacked it up. Probably almost 1/8". I haven't been able to determine if there is movement in other directions yet, but the tires have been getting cupped and the steering does tend to wander.
Not gonna like how far tear down is required to get into these bearings.
Found this http://graphicvillage.org/meritor/MM0170.pdf May be too new a series for what you have but generally are all similar Will most likely be a Torrington Style Thrust bearing inside the bearing head, these are NOT Ball Joints. Grease worms eat these up.
Interesting, thanks for finding that! I just assumed they were ball joints but I've never worked on a driven steer axle this size before. I guess I need to just dive into it to see what I find. I guess I should add some dewormer to my grease mixture
I have no experience with that particular axle, but on many types of 4wd front axles they use small king pins top and bottom, with bearings as perviously mentioned. Under the king pin cap is a stack of shims which is used to set the bearing preload and as a means to take the vertical slop out as they wear. Usually is a 4 bolt cap, with grease fitting in the king pin. On older equipment often the previous owners have already taken all the shims out to try to get the slop out when everything is worn past spec.
I ain't a mechanic, but that gap doesn't look good. Maybe if one took those 4 bolts out from below it on that plate of steel after 24 hrs of soaking in PB blaster and some heat with a nut to weld on later after you snap the bolts to get the there stud out you might find after coaxing a king pin of sorts and maybe some shims or something should of went there. Might be part of the problem, I guess......
Two types-closed and open knuckle yours is open. The PDF DM provided is close enough. Onne issue is the dirt in the axle tubes to clean before assembly. The bolts normally come out it's getting the frozen upper and lower pin bosses removed, and some come apart easy.
Thanks for the info, supposedly the parts will be in today. Apparently the dealer's system gave them the wrong part numbers for my VIN so they got the wrong bushings. The upper pin came out easily, lower isn't budging. Time for the cutting torch.
Yeah there's a $300+ thrust bearing that goes in there. The bolts came out easily, but the pin is seized in the knuckle. Soaking with penetrating oil and lots of heat hasn't worked yet so I'm going to try to cut it out today.
Didn't have to torch it out after all. Driving it around for a couple days without the bolts in probably helped loosen it up
Lol nice
I kept a rag in the axle tube seal so it stayed clean. Put a magnet down it also and didn't come back with anything significant. The oil looked really clean also so I think it's ok. Decided to put a new seal in while I was there anyway.
New lower pin and thrust bearing. $1200 for those two, not including the bushing and seals. It seems the cap ("expansion plug" according to Meritor) that keeps the grease in was either not installed correctly or somehow got dislodged over the years. The grease was just escaping out the top and not getting to the bushing or the thrust bearing. (New cap shown in previous post and above bushing in this picture)
Double post
Hope you used lots of anti-seize.
I actually used gasket maker where the lower pin mates with the knuckle. Figured it would seal out moisture and likely last longer than anti-seize. Bolts are getting anti-seize.
What I'd like to know is how to keep the brake shoe pins from seizing in place. Is this good enough? What about the dust shields, are they necessary? They pretty much disintegrated into a pile of rust.
In some ways having dust shields makes more issues, traps dirt and moisture. I use to remove them on drop axle/steer axles. Traps sand in winter. Easier to inspect.
Perfect, exactly what I was hoping.
"Range Inhibited" and the number on the shifter console flashes. I get this message sometimes when I put it in gear after starting it. Let it idle for 15-30 seconds and it'll go into gear normally and work fine until I shut off the truck. I thought it was doing that to allow the transmission to warm up/circulate oil etc. But often it does it even when the truck is warm, and sometimes it doesn't do it when it's cold. Any ideas? I'd really like to find an operator's manual for the transmission that explains this and other features. It's an Allison MD3060P.
Range inhibited is programmed in the system controller. Depending on the application. The bucket and boom trucks I used to work on would give you the range inhibited message if you tried to engage the transmission with the outriggers down or the PTO engaged. The newer Internationals require a brake application being made when engaging the transmission or you get "range inhibited". You might be engaging the transmission too fast after releasing the park brake. If you engage the transmission with the park brake applied do you get the range inhibited message?
Once it's past it's "waiting period" it'll go into gear regardless of whether the service brake pedal is pressed or the parking brake is engaged. I haven't tried it with the PTO engaged. Normally I only engage the PTO when I'm ready to dump a load.
Today it hasn't yet given me the range inhibited message for a dozen or so starts. Seems weird that it does it sometimes but not others.
If everything is functioning as it should I doubt there is a serious problem. The engine ECU, IDM, ABS module, TCU, ESC, and instrument panel all communicate on the data link. There could be a problem with the data link but I doubt it. I would start at the batteries and clean all the terminals and fuse holders and connectors in the battery box. There should be one in there with a fuse for the transmission. Then at the top left of the firewall there are some ground studs and maxi-fuses where the ESC gets its power. ESC is the body module or electronic system controller. Clean and apply dielectric grease to all the connections at that area of the firewall and see if the Range Inhibit message goes away.
Ok, I will try that. Thanks
Here is a link to an operators manual for your MD3060P transmission https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1208&d=1251681881
Thank you! That is very helpful
Time for some broken stud extraction...
Oof, that sucks.
Those-the hub is best removed, set up in a bridgeport, in most cases it's easier to just replace the entire hub with used. International brand drive axle or Eaton, Rockwell?
I didn't realize it would be that involved to remove the remains. I figured a left hand drill and fluted ez out would do the trick. Or welding a piece of tubing to it. Now I'm wondering why it broke. The rest seem fine- I didn't remove them but put a socket on them and none of them were loose like this one was. I assumed it was a Meritor axle since that's what the front axle and transfer case are, but when I looked briefly this morning I couldn't find markings on it. I will need to clean it and look more thoroughly, or maybe try to get the build sheet from the dealer.
So, it is a Meritor RS-19-145 with a "no spin" differential.
I would sure try to get the broken stud out before replacing the hub. They can be tough to get out sometimes.
What is this little sensor in the AC line? There is another sensor on the other end of the same line that seems to be a pressure sensor. This Dorman pressure switch is what it looks like. Not the same as the one in the above photo.
They are thermistors or temperature sensors there are two of them. The originals that came installed from new all leaked badly after a couple years. Navistar makes a thermistor kit with updated thermistors that don't leak. The system has to be evacuated to replace the thermistors.
Depending on ratio-I know where one is setting.
The other is on top of the accumulator in the first picture? The dealer gave me a price of $173 one, and they didn't mention a kit.
5.86. From what I've gathered, you are on the other side of the country so it might be too far away.
The kit part number is: 2606229C92 It comes with new connector bodies and terminals and shrink tube. I only ever replaced the thermistors and reused the old connectors with a 100% success rate.
Thanks, I'll have to get the system evacuated and then see if this fixes the problem.
I seem to be having an electrical issue recently that I think is affecting the ignition circuit. It may be related to the range inhibited problem but I don't know for sure. Occasionally, since I've had the truck (2 years, 5000 miles & 300 hours approximately), it will have a split second skip when it's running. Last week, I had left it running while I was loading some gravel and when I got out of the loader I noticed that it wasn't running. I thought that was weird but it started right up and I didn't think much of it. Then later it cut out completely when I was driving down the road. It kept doing it intermittently, sometimes stalling completely and sometimes recovering. When it does this, there is a lot of light grayish smoke coming out the exhaust from unburned fuel apparently. At first I thought it was a plugged fuel filter but it's too abrupt cutting out and recovering to be that (I did check the fuel screen before the filter just to be sure. It had a little crud in it but not enough to cause it to completely cut out). I cleaned all the electrical connections on the left side of the firewall, but it has done it briefly since then. I'm wondering if maybe the CPS is on its way out. I checked the wire connection to it and it wasn't loose, but haven't investigated that further. Any other ideas of what to check? Does this have an electric lift pump? I didn't see any evidence of one.
Cam Position Sensor can cause it yes. Give the three wires on the connector the ten pound pull test, the wire can break inside the insulation where it meets the connector. There should be a small clip with a tiny zip tie holding the wire near the connector to a bracket near the CPS. if its missing the wire can fail over time. I used to replace the CPS periodically on the trucks I looked after as a maintenance item.
Can you scan it and see if there are any faults?
Thanks Terry, I'll check those things. I think I can borrow a Nexiq to check for faults.
That was easy
In doing some reading about these, I'm finding that the new CPS may need to be shimmed, which may require a special dial indicator to measure the thickness of shims needed. Does that sound right?
I put them in the bore in the front cover and if the flange on the sensor contacts the front cover the bolt goes in and the connector goes on. If there is a gap between the sensor and the cover measure it with a feeler gauge and add an extra .005" for clearance. I have yet to see one that needed a shim.
Turns out the dealer didn't have a new CPS, and didn't know when they'd be able to get one. Turns out I had a good used one from my 7.3L Powerstroke that fits and seems to be working fine. I've run the truck for a few hours since then and no hiccups so far. Another thing that I think was related was an issue with the tach. There have been a few times over the last few months when it has given erratic readings, but the engine still seemed to run fine so I figured it was loose wiring in the dash or something like that. I didn't connect the dots in my head that this was probably also caused by the failing CPS.
Discovered a grenade. So:
Now I need to find what appears to be a unicorn- traction tires for the driven steer axle.
I used to look after a small fleet of mostly Internationals. I ran Michelin XDN2 tires on the steering axles of the trucks with driving or non driving steering axles. They wore well and worked great in the winter. That would be my suggestion.
Those do look like really nice tires. The tire shop owner didn't recommend siped tires on the steer axle because they can be squirmy when cornering. He recommended Ironhead IDR311 or similar. While I may use this truck in snow occasionally, I don't plan to use it for plowing so snow traction isn't the highest priority. It will probably see a lot more use off road and in muddy conditions. Is there any difference between steer and drive tires besides tread?
Casings--sidewall flex. Those IDR311 should make for interesting driving on steer. * RY023 Yokohama.
That makes sense. Unfortunately I don't think the RY023 would be very good off road.
When I got the truck it had winter deeps all the way around. Anything should be an improvement as far as handling goes.
Work in a wheat field.
Though not on a powered steering axle I have 10 tires like this tread pattern on my Mack. They wear, grip, and clean well and really don't round over on the steer axle. Mine are 16ply and General branded. Ironman I-301 11R22.5 H/16PLY - Walmart.com Arrives by Tue, Feb 20 Buy Ironman I-301 11R22.5 H/16PLY at Walmart.com www.walmart.com As TS mentions look for a tire that is steering position rated as the sidewalls are different than tires designed for a drive axle. All position tires are a compromise between the two but wear acceptably well.
We don't have any of those around here, maybe even none in the entire state.
Here's a good example of where I take this truck. (I know, I need a track dumper)
Surely could use something more open and aggressive on the steer in those conditions.
Do you have tire chains and a locker?
How about tow chains and a dozer! It does have a no-spin rear diff. I obviously took it a little too far that time, but it helps illustrate the need for good traction steers.
Tire chains on the rear will do more than anything on the front, just don't break a drive line
Front ends are also not too stable and subject to sliding out when tires are packed solid.
Exactly why I'm looking for open shoulder tires.
Had 4x4 and 6x6 trucks at the utility, were considered slow transport use and local where were untuly at highway speeds with same tires Fr and Rr. Generally had to back in where needed as steer plowed like was no bottom. 6x6s got rear rubber tracks. The powered steer axles proved out pretty useless with weight of the trucks.
Aggressive tread tires tend to cup when used on a steering axle especially one with a short wheel base.
It's not a jeep.
Where can I get one of those!
Spud's Sales-Rosebud MT.
Search Results www.govplanet.com They have auctions all the time just have to search when they have on up on the block.
I wasn't actually serious... But it is interesting some of the things they have listed on there
That's why I posted it. There is a lot of stuff that goes through that auction house.
Dido Inc. in Dorset has one, a few towns have them on some loan program. They are capable of a whole lot more weight than nameplate allows. I don't know if you can legally increase the weight they are registered for.
Mil Spec is generally a Half to a quarter of actual functional capacity. Tandem even single wheel trucks quoted at 5 ton, beds sized accordingly as that 5 yard without side rails, Never challenge the suspensions of them. Same truck commercial manufacture rated to 20t easily. Capacity charts I suspect not revised since WWII or Korea.
Is this where the expression " tight as a drum" comes from?
Nope but sure fits the occasion!!
DM, I must say I didn't believe grease worms were real until today: The driver side thrust bearing was getting pretty loose, so I decided it was time to do it (last year I did the passenger side, driver side was still fairly tight at that point). When I pulled the upper kingpin that little guy was hiding in there, no joke.
Still couldn't get the drum off but managed to apply $2000 worth of parts anyway.
A suggestion Cannot put the memory to any specific point in time or company was working on. Remove ALL the studs to remove the drum keeps popping into my head.
It's worth a try. But I can't say I'm too anxious to tear it apart that far again!
I finally have a chance to replace these thermistors. Do you happen to know how much refrigerant this system takes?
It takes 36 ounces. or 2.25 Lb's. If you climb up on the right front tire and look down inside the HVAC air intake you should see a cabin air filter. I would replace it if it looks dirty.
"If" it looks dirty? Haha it was nasty. Thanks for the tip, I'll order a new one. Before I saw your reply, my friend at the auto shop found a chart online that listed 1.88 lbs for 7300 models prior to 2007 and 2.25lbs for 2007+. So we put 1.88 in it and it seems to be working for now, I guess I'll know next time I use it on a hot day. Thanks for your help, it's always appreciated!
My next crazy idea for this truck is adding a trans temp gauge. I found this on eBay: If I can find the correct connector wire, it looks like it'll go right into one of the blank spots in the gauge cluster: I don't expect it to be plug and play, but if there is a temp sensor on the transmission, would it be possible to program this gauge into the system so it works properly?
I have never installed one. depending on your transmission it may be plug and play. The transmission temp sensor is internal. The instrument panel will get the transmission temp from the J1939 data link.
There should be a Check Transmission light in the cluster that comes on if the transmission overheats so I suspect the gauge will work.
If not just add a sender from the cooler loop I guess
I can't figure out if I need Diamond Logic Builder to program the new gauge or not. I do have ServiceMaxx but I don't think that does anything other than engine diagnostics.
I'm not 100% sure but you probably need Diamond Logic Builder and a dealer password and Navistar to supply the "flash file" to make the gauge work.
I've been reading more of the body builder book and it does seem that DLB is required. I guess I'll have to check with the dealer to see if they are willing to do this.
In the meantime, I installed a boost gauge and it seems to be topping out around 20psi. Does that sound normal for this setup (non VGT)?
Now I finally have good rubber all the way around
What is the machine behind it? Why so many hoses?
That's my Mecalac. Hoses are for bucket coupler, lock valves, 4 aux lines, and bucket and arm cylinders
You've kept us in the dark! Incredible!
I mentioned it in this thread: HeavyEquipmentForums But I do need to start a proper thread about it
So the new gauge came and I installed it. It appears that it does need to be programmed because after the normal needle sweep, it starts turning clockwise until it pegs and keeps trying until I unplug it. So I'm trying to get an appointment to get it programmed into the controller.
The process might be a bit of a chore. I am guessing but I believe the dealer will need to create a case file with legacy support in the service portal. The support department will edit the file in the software that runs the electronic system controller then the dealer will re-flash the system controller and the gauge should work. That updated software file is stored by VIN on Navistar's main frame computer. If you ever need to replace the ESC or It needs an update the gauge will still work. They will need you VIN and probably the part # of the new gauge. We had Navistar add an exhaust brake to the ESC file a few years back. We are a sub-dealer. The dealer charged us around $400. Make sure and get an estimate first.
Today's office.
International for yuh.
Don't even need my passport for International travel
Still stuck in a Corn Queen here.
First time hauling one of these.
Repairs or trading up?
Summer hibernation
Would not think much use for a Snow Slope Dresser in Vt
Only from December to April
Yeah, but the State still spreads brine or salt every night from November to May
A Prinoth Trooper, The electric utility I worked for bought one to replace a 1995 Bombardier. The Prinoth was a lemon. After breaking down repeatedly and leaving the techs stranded, once they had to snowshoe down the mountain eight hours to get to the truck. They refused to use it. It had a Cat Acert 4.4 a re-badged Perkins in it.
The truck seems to have developed a leak in the AC evaporator core. The steel lines are getting a little rusty also so I figured I'd replace the lines/hoses at the same time. Got a quote from the dealer and the hose assembly from the evaporator to the condenser is $559! The hose from the condenser to compressor is $318, and the evaporator is $485. Does anyone know of a good aftermarket source for International AC parts?
Can you get IH part numbers and run them on internet search?
Time for a red dot.
The A/C lines don't give a lot of trouble. There is an aluminium receiver dryer at the firewall near the A/C unit. It has a steel band around it. the electrolysis between the steel and aluminium causes the receiver dryer to leak under the steel band. I bet that is your leak. You did replace the thermistors a while back if I remember correctly.
Not sure if your vehicle specifics and if items you’re looking for available… I’ve never used Rockauto but May as I need a/c parts for my ‘98 Ford Ranger
I will have to give that a try. I think the quote from the dealer included part numbers.
That's an option I hadn't considered. I may have to look into it at some point
I was only planning on replacing the lines because they have a lot of surface rust on them. But maybe I will just add rust inhibitor and hope they last another 20 years. I will have to take a closer look at the receiver drier. When we checked for leaks we pressurized the system and it was leaking from somewhere in the evaporator housing. We didn't see any leaks from the receiver drier but we weren't specifically looking under the steel band. Yes, I replaced the thermistors last year. Thanks for your input, I'm always impressed by your knowledge of these trucks!
I use Rock Auto on a regular basis. They have some parts for my truck but not the AC hoses. If you try them out, check here for a discount code first: HeavyEquipmentForums
No more muffler windows
Quick weight loss. About 1000 lbs Now I definitely need a bumper
Now it'll go fast up the hill.
I wish!
That's a pile of money right there
How much?
Been awhile since I've seen prices but as is used and working I bet it's over $1000
And probably to get a new system installed at a dealer is $20k
Plow pump set up was independent from the dump cylinder?
I hope so! Otherwise I'll be using a hand crank to dump the box
I thought you were going to use that telehandler
Pump 1k Tank 500 Lines 500 Install 500 Valve 500
Maybe I will try to sell it at some point.
Used wet kit (hyd.) are usually $1,500 or so in my area. But that's usually one that has the gearbox to hook to a eaton transmission. Not many guys run the front crank set up. The concrete trucks used to, but those were much bigger pumps.
There is a chrome front bumper for an International on CL over here.
When I was equipping my fire truck with hydraulics I looked at an IH truck newer than yours. It has a belt driven hydraulic pump for dump. I explored that, also wanted AC. Mine has several V belts from the crank pulley with no room for more. Other trucks have a drive shaft from the end of the crankshaft extending under the radiator to a pump mounted under the bumper. My radiator is in the way. I bought two different used PTO units. Both were damaged beyond reasonable repair. Both salvage yards ended up refunding my money. I bought a married PTO & 20? GPM pump with all the hardware needed it came to $1400.
Depends on the front pump, the nice ones have a swash plate of some sort that turns it on to full gpm or off to 2 gpm
This one? Peterbilt and International from Bumper - heavy equipment - by owner - sale - craigslist Peterbilt Front bumper $75 International Front bumper $75 nh.craigslist.org
I think this one is just a standard gear pump. I assume it was put on the truck when they built it in 2003.
Yep, no brackets but looks pretty good.
Unfortunately that chrome one has too much curve. The ends would rub on the tires I think. This is more what I was thinking of
Track over it with the Mecelac, that should take out some of the curves. Lol Oh, didn’t realize you were a chrome whore. lol Whats that saying about chrome, not getting you home. lol
That's true, I'm not all about the looks but chrome is definitely longer lasting than any painted metal. As long as it doesn't rust for a good long while, I'm happy.
How about aluminum fabricated?
I wish I had the proper equipment and skills for aluminum welding
I'll coach.
Great! I just need to get the equipment. I suppose a spool gun setup would be relatively cheap. There's no rush now - I picked this up at the scrap yard when I was there for a fuel tank bracket: It's not chrome so TS should be proud of me! I paid $70 for this and the fuel tank bracket and a few small odds and ends. The fuel tank started leaking a little over a week ago, which prompted the removal of the central hydraulics system. I hate road salt. The rear bracket was rusted through in a couple spots and very thin everywhere else. So I found one at the scrap yard that wasn't rusty but was tweaked a little bit. I can live with that. $630 delivered:
Truck looks a lot better and more usable without that plow mount, looks like you're getting it fixed up well. I gave up fighting the road salt. Got me a couple clean rust free southern trucks and a new trailer, and they stay parked basically from mid-December to mid-March. If there's any salt on the roads they don't go out. Has sure saved me a lot of money and grief, probably more than I was making on some of those marginally productive winter jobs anyways. Only thing that goes out in the winter is my F250 (aluminum body) and 15K trailer and I wash them both thoroughly/weekly. That said, I know this isn't an option for many people, especially if you have salt for nearly half the year.
Yes--that looks nice mater.
Not sure why someone painted an X on the bumper but if I can't get it off I'll paint over it.
This truck started it's life as a salt spreader so it was right in the thick of it for a while. I've done what I can to keep it off the roads when it's salty but sometimes it can't be helped. Once the rust starts, it never stops. I wish accessories and parts could be bought made from stainless steel.
I have a Miller spool gun. Been sitting in the box years unused. I'm not a big fan of spool gun welds, I much prefer TIG. Aluminum has an oxide layer you can't remove with chemical, only wire brush effectively removes. TIG, especially square wave TIG is better at cathodic etching. Makes a prettier weld. Your new tank is TIG welded.
Wire Brush and or Scotch Bright pads for De-oxidizing surfaces. My Miller gun has seen two spools of use since I finally unboxed and attained a Argon Bottle.
My fabricating friends use the spool gun to tack weld, then tig
Aluminum requires AC, correct?
The new tank has different port sizing and configuration than the old one: And it has no tube to direct the return fuel to flow down the side of the tank, so I had to make one: Looks better now:
With 10 gallons in the new tank it still reads low...
Better to read low than high.
I don't know why these keep breaking. This is the third one I've had to replace. It was the most difficult to extract by far.
Maniacs I mean Mechanics install the nuts with impact wrenches and badly over tighten them.
1956 Power Wagon ould shear off all axle flange studs at once, I'll guess too much torque. I cleaned the surface real well, took it down to shiny metal. No gasket, coated the flat surface with red locktight. Hasn't happened since.
Yes it takes a technician to properly torque those nut sacks.
I pulled this rear diff apart to reseal and there's a bit of fuzz on the magnets. No chunks that I saw. Anything to be concerned about or is this normal?
Typical
Nice rebar, I usually cut the heads off long bolts, but "any port in a storm". Looks like normal gear wear fuzz to me. I can smell the 80-90 from here.
I wanted to get it as much space to work as I could but didn't have any round bar on hand. This takes 85W-140 actually. But yeah it smells a lot!
Wait until have washed clothes 2-3 times and can still smell it on them!
MIG uses DC.
What does that mean??
Get gear oil on my clothing, then as I washed my own the soap would not remove the gear oil odor. Only uniform service clothes that were severely chemically cleaned would not retain the smell of gear oil.
It’s funny that gear oil, whatever the weight, doesn’t smell that bad, till it gets used. Someone should do a study on how long it takes, to smell nasty? Lol
Used final drive oil is the strongest I've smelled. The oil in this differential really wasn't that bad.
1 tube of ultra black No leaks so far This buzzed over while I was filling with oil
Allison MD3060-P Quick Guide MODE button → Economy (earlier shifts) vs. Performance (holds gears longer). D1–D5 → Limits highest gear: D1 = max braking/climbs D2 = slippery starts D3 = hills/stop-go D4 = secondary roads D5 = normal driving (default). Use Performance when towing, Economy for fuel savings.
#4.
Are they breaking on the same side every time? Did you replace all of them when the first one broke?
Both sides. I've just been replacing them as they break
Just practice work!!
I made a drill guide and that helps a lot. Once I drill through the broken piece, it usually comes out with an EZ out. One of them wouldn't and I had to drill it to size and use a tap to clean out the thread remnants.
Can this fitting on the air tank be used to connect an air hose for filling tires, using a blow gun, etc?
Yes it will let you use the contents of the wet tank.
What's that type of quick connect fitting called? I tried searching for air line connectors but almost everything that comes up is for shop air fittings which are obviously much different. It almost looks more like a hydraulic fitting.
Its a Parker test fitting. A hydraulic shop is your friend.
You could just unscrew the test fitting, and install a female milton coupler. I would replace all the studs at once, both sides. They will be easier to fix before they break. Then you would know if you have something else going on that is breaking the studs, or if they were just all overtightened.
Let’s just back up, a little bit. But, have you tried the new Grape Flavored AC Delco part #88900401) 75W-90 synthetic axle lubricant? Same performance, new grape scent. It’s the bomb.
I don't know the coupler, mine has a conventional coupler. They don't last real long. I probably have to replace them every few years. Quite handy, I had a front tire on the backhoe come off the rim. I didn't have the hose for unknown reason, had to drive a few miles to get it.
Winter sneakers on the steer axle
Looks good! when I came through the Rogers pass last winter I talked to some tanker drivers using those Michelins on their drives, the traction is really impressive. I had open shoulder fairly aggressive drives and had to chain up to get out of parking area at summit. (14" came down overnight). They could just ease into it and gain momentum...
Good choice. The XDN2 might have been one of the best all-around, winter condition, vocational tires available. I hope the replacement is just as good. How long before someone gives you crap about putting a drive tire on a steer axle? Lol
I typically put steers on a drive lol
Well, it's a driving steer axle, does that make it better? His truck is 4x4
It is a drive axle.
And a steer
So, I called the "local" dealer today and they said they thought they could do it but they didn't know how much it would cost until they looked at the truck. The problem is that they are in another state and this truck is registered for "intrastate" only. They apparently don't have a mobile service option. Seems like they don't know really know what I was asking them to do.
Not sure if it helps: I changed my MCS150 from intra to inter to take some stuff cross-country. I used trip permits to get through the non-home states. (You can change back after)
About five years ago we had a customer want an exhaust brake installed on an older international DT466 or 530 I don't remember which. I created a case file with what we wanted and a list of the parts we would be installing. If I remember correctly they charged just over $400 Canadian for them to update the ECM file.
Maybe I should make the trip there! It sounds like they are a little more competent than this dealer.
Meanwhile I'm trying to fix a few other issues. Occasionally, when I flip the switch to shift into low range, this valve leaks continually, even after the shift is complete. Other times it doesn't leak at all. Maybe it's sticking inside? Can I take it apart and clean it, or just try squirting some air tool oil into the line?
Some air tool oil might work. Take the 3/8" on the left of the picture out and fill it from there. The solenoids aren't hard to replace depending where they are located.
They are great on every surface you can imagine, except for gravel. They wear off like a grinder wheel if running a bunch of gravel miles.
Good point. I saw a new set destroyed after two summer on the Denali Hwy.
These are real good winter/summer traction tires, we average 200,000 plus on a set of drives. Yokohama 527's. *
They are winter only use. I'll be putting the Ironman 402s back on once the snow is gone.
Hopefully you get to use them up before they weather crack
For sure.
They are used, maybe 65% remaining tread. 2017 YOM if I remember correctly. I keep them in a shed protected from sunlight when not in use.
I would never, and I mean this, never would I ever put a 10 year old Michelin anything on a steer. I've seen and had too many Michelins blow out for no reason, even ones being ran since new next to another Michelin. Just an example, l bought 6 Michelin steers from a guy that had ran them on a trailer. After he blew the second one, he took them off. I put 4 of them on the 3rd axle of the quad group on my RGN. That group never gets more than 62k on it, which is 15.5k per axle loaded. Last summer, one of them decided to leave the chat in an explosive way just sitting in the yard empty, on a 70°F day, after the trailer had been sitting for over 3 days.
I get rid of steers after 6 years
At a time when 14 ply 10:00-20 traction tires were hard to find, I found 4 that I needed at EC Crosby & Sons in Mount Tabor. New, unused they sure looked good. I didn't get a week out of them. They broke like egg shells. Not sure how long they had been in storage, clearly too long.
Oops, tailgate troubles. The previously stretched chain hook finally let go.
Found an air gap causing hood issues No more gaps:
All that work just so I can check the oil
Oil and Coolant and washer fluid and clean the windshield!
Probably does need washer fluid, the light blinks a little when going down steep hills
Rust never sleeps. Nice fix
Nice tidy repair!
Delivered some limestone to the lavender farm today.
Looks just like the rock we have here. The first pile appears to be what we would call #57 and the far pile #8910. Is it the same nomenclature there?
No, it's basically screen size by inch. The close pile is 3/8" stone which is what I got, the farther pile is probably considered sand. Looked like 1/4" minus. My first time at this quarry.
WCS?
Yes sir. Funny, it still comes up as SLC on caller ID. How long has it been since they have been SLC?
Several years. It was White Pigment Corporation, owned by a local farmer when I was a kid. Stone was a waste product, they gave away. I don't know why, but some of the rock they blasted was unsuitable for pigment. They had Euclid quarry trucks & cable shovels. There was an elevator, dumped 6" rock into trucks. Owner of Swanton Limestone Corp made an offer: I'll take over, pay you a bigger salary than you have ever made. He built the crushed stone business, built a helicopter pad across route 7. His helicopter was parked there much of the time. I first bought material there about 1990, 1-3/4 drainage stone was $2.50 a ton.
Gotcha. Our nomenclature is due to screen size it goes through. #57 is what falls through 5, 6, 7 screens. BTW - Those prices are CHEAP! Our 3/4" drainage stone which is #57 is $25.00 per ton across the scales.
Prices are usually directly proportional to accessibility. I'm guessing you can't just go mine rock anywhere where you're from, just like in my region. Three-quarter or 1.5" crushed rock varies from $15 to $25 per ton, maybe higher if it's been through the wash. Class 5 or 13 is at least $6 per ton, can be as high as $10.
Oh no we are in the middle of limestone country. There are seven large quarries in a 30 mile radius. Problem is the limestone is very high quality and most of it is turned into cement or industrial purposes. One lime plant turns out cosmetic and food grade calcium. This lime goes in a lot of stuff from chicken feed to toothpaste. So construction aggregates get to compete that. Vulcan Materials is HQ'd here and owns the construction aggregates in the area and pretty much dictates pricing. We buy most of ours from a local company that gets the lesser quality limestone overburden from the high grade calcium facility and crushes it for state spec'd stone.
Ours is right at $19 and channge per ton for Inch Base, either bleding being done too hurriedly or poorly as getting more inch clean than base fines. Quarry running 24/7 for Data Center materials so expect fatigue and expedience affecting them. New mat under Blue and remnant of third load stockpiled. Two full loads came up the drive from the highway ~18t a load
Got a good start on Steps for wife for Sleepy Time. She just tried them and approves. Back Section folds flat to steps part steps and long leg ends angled and grip well into existing.
My father was 6'1". My mother was 4'11". He carried a stool with him to help her climb up to the running boards on the 1/2 ton pickup. The Jeep was another matter! He had a three foot stepladder for that.
First snow storm and that loose stone will all get plowed into the ditch.
Need to drive over the first 6" of snow to pack down a nice ice shield to keep the gravel in place.....maybe....fingers crossed....So I tell myself every fall.....
Yeah, until it warms up to 40 and turns into 6" of slush and then refreezes into a tire track toboggan run.
BTDT have the scars...."Pick your rutt carefully". Have you any experience with these rubber cutting edges ? Some of the snowplowers doing residential drives use them.
No, never tried those. Might be worth it if we keep getting these warm winters. Or else just roll the snow like they did in the old days
Top & East face of the green mountain range have always amazed me, under all the snow, the ground doesn't freeze. This has never been true of plowed driveways. I live at base west side of Green Mountain range. We don't get as much snow. Everything freezes, even under snow. It has warmed noticeably in recent years. Year after year even driveways don't freeze. It was cold enough, the water froze under the parking lot at the Town Office. Didn't get it thawed until late March. Rigged a hose from a hydrant, ran it above ground & spent a bunch of time with a weed burner torch thawing that. I did once have a small Fisher plow on a GMC S15 (Chevy S10). It had a 1" thick white nylon cutting edge. It gouged a little less than steel in soft driveways.
Have I mentioned my feelings about road salt?
At least Floor Pan in my old Junker was solid. Rockers and Cab Corners as well much of Door Bottoms GONE.
Man, we've been warm here, but the heat hasn't sucked enough of my sense of humor. I'm not laughing with you, I'm laughing at you.
No need to mention, I have feelings of my own. I have even stronger feelings about brine the State slimes the roads with every night October to May.
Some people's sole purpose in life is to provide entertainment for others. Glad I could help, haha.
We've been getting nice, cool nights lately. It makes a big difference with how tolerable the daytime heat is.
Up at 3 as usual today, sitting on deck drinking my pot of coffee. 66 at 55% humidity here after a week of awakening to start of day at 77-80 and 85+% humidity. Got Bush Hog readied, be headed literally to back forty this morning for some mow the weeds down time.
Those are some gorgeous temps in your forecast. We're going back to summer next week, and I can't wait for fall
In another year, you can Fred Flintsone your driving.....
Can't reach the ground with my feet
...presently......a wee bit more rust, and the seat will be lower....
Still not low enough. The top of the frame is about the same height as my belly button.
@DDoug may not have been only talking about the rust on the floor pan... Have you checked the frame? That may be lower to the ground in another year...
Thankfully the frame is still solid. Needs to be blasted and painted, but still solid.
Water gets under the floor mat and it stays there until it rusts the floor away. The cab structure doesent seem to rust as bad and the doors also don't rust. Cut the rusted metal out and make panels to fit. Its not a bad job.I couldn't tell you how many I have done.
Seth took the rubber mat out of mine several years ago, but I just noticed a couple tiny perforations in the floor. One more project I didn't need!
I've told this story too many times: Before we were married, the lovely future Mrs. B. was a college student. I was building a house without a mortgage, money was tight. I bought her a clunker car to get to school. I've always called her an automotive hypochondriac. There was always a funny noise, imaginary problem. One weekend it was "The seat sits funny." I had work to do, paid little attention. Sunday night she hopped into the driver's seat, in a second she was sitting on the ground, couldn't see over the dash. I spent the night replacing the floor. She left at 5:00 AM.
Salty snow comes in on boots and then the warm air from the heater makes rust very happy. The driver side rocker is quite bad, the passenger side outer seems fine but the inner needs to be replaced. Some of the cross members on the driver side need to be replaced also.
What's the purpose of the raised areas? Would it make much difference if I just made it all flat? The doors aren't rusty, but the paint has been falling off in sheets
Frame below the driver seat:
You could leave out the raised sections but you’d be like sitting in a low rider. Lol
Floor pans were at one time Flat, manufacturers added structure to seats or other floor mounted parts to put at correct height. Easier to stamp the pans, also raises fasteners out of debris settle points.
Need to get a tall shifter and tinted windows to go with it. And spikes on the lug nuts.
The raised areas are less than an inch higher. Gives the salt water somewhere to collect.
Is there something special about International paint formulas? I tried the two local auto parts stores and neither can mix this color. Code 6680.
My old Dodge Brothers trucks had wooden floors. Of course they also had the gas filler in front of the driver seat. I've never been a smoker, plenty of drivers were!
Last Friday, me and another guy drank all 3 gallons of water I brought by 11am. I had a salt ring on my pants. I'm ready for snow
This is odd, it won't let me reset the trip hour counter. Normally I reset the trip miles and hours at every fill up but this time the miles reset but the hours won't.
Because truck was not included in Y2K. Don’t forget the fuzzy dice!
Try disconnecting the batteries for a minute then reconnect them and try reset it again. I see the engine is running. Try resetting it with the engine stopped before disconnecting the batteries.
You saying if it was built before 2000 it would be fine? This truck seems to have many electrical issues... None of them seem connected but they probably are somehow.
It was a few days ago now but I think I tried resetting it with the engine off and running and neither worked. The next morning I went out and it reset normally.
Early Electronics, flip of a coin if work or toss a fit.
Yuk: Doing a service today and the fuel screen was a little nasty. Also, I can't seem to get it to prime with the little primer thing. I've pumped it hundreds of times and don't seem to be getting any resistance. Does it only work if there's fuel in the screen bowl?
I guess the belt was about done
'nother problem: it's been shifting badly at times (Allison MD3060 I believe). I can pull up what appears to be an error code on the shifter display. It only shows one digit at a time but it flashes the following sequence: d-1-2-2-1-4. From what I've read the first two digits "d1" designate the diagnostic code number. The next 4 digits are the code itself which from what I've read is the input or engine speed sensor. Does this sound correct? Is it common for the sensor to go bad, or is it more likely a wiring issue?
We're having troubles with a allison right now. It seems speed sensors are a common problem. Unfortunately my problems are internal to the transmission. Speed sensors are right on the outside. So they are easy to change.
Does anyone know a trick to get this sensor out without destroying it?
Wishful thinking
Well, it’s out!
Sometimes the primer push button has to be pulled out each time making for a longer stroke to actually prime. This has been the case on a few of my machines in case you have not tried yet
It was a wedged sensor in a great tightness, in a word, irremovable.
O Rings tend to ‘seal’ set after some time as well these are plastic, tends to weld in place.
The aluminum (or whatever alloy the transmission housing is made of) corroded and swelled enough to clamp tight on the plastic.
What I ended up doing is starting it and pumping the primer while it was running. It coughed and sputtered some but smoothed out after a bit. The primer was coming fully back each time, it just wasn't pumping anything for some reason. Probably airlock.
Well since installing the new sensor, it's been shifting much better and so far hasn't given the "range inhibited" message like it's been doing: HeavyEquipmentForums The error code is still showing, and I haven't figured out how to clear it.
The code cleared itself so hopefully that problem is resolved for good.
Making a little progress
You could just slide a different truck over the top, and reuse the tires. They aren't rusty.
Where's the fun in that? No chance to get covered in glass dust from head to toe from blasting or get cuts on my hands from SS slivers or burn my fingers on the hot metal when I don't pay attention to which end I just welded...
The rust is heartbreaking! Haven't done much of that work in a number of years. There was a time I had something in progress most of the year.
A lot as my SD Ford was like.