Hello, I have a 310 that will crank fast but won't start and run. The day before it was hard to start but ran good al day. Today she will spin but not run. We have bled fuel system, changed filter. Changed pick up pump. Now we have been told that it is fuel solenoid in pump. Applying 12 volts to solenoid doesn't make it click. What else could this be.
Use a test lite or volt meter to MAKE SURE your getting 12v TO the soleniod..if not, check key switch and fuses.. Remove the fuel return line connector on top of the pump top cover..NOT JUST THE LINE BUT THE ENTIRE CONNECTOR. [you should see a small glass ball in the end of it] The solenoid "should" click with 12v applied..you may need to remove the top cover.. Once you get it "clicking".. try to start the engine without the return line connector... Let us know..
Thanks I will do this later today. Really appreciate the help. When should I get fuel and when should I not get fuel (around glass ball) or tubing.
1st the connector with the glass ball should be removed..entirely..you should only have a hole in the top cover.. Your probably not going to get fuel to flow from the top cover unless you get the solenoid to work..if you cant get fuel in, you cant get fuel out..the solenoid prevents fuel from entering, actually it moves the metering valve to a "no-fuel" position..
Ok, so I can crank engine. I get fuel to the injectors. This is how I bled the system. Does this mean I am on the wrong track maybe.?
If you have fuel AT THE INJ. tighten the lines and see if it will run..WITHOUT THE RETURN CONNECTOR.
Thanks I will get this done. And let you know. Thanks for your patience. It is greatly appreciated.
Ok did this. Still no go. New solenoid put in yesterday. What next sir.
Correction 410g. Hey does the seat have a pressure switch, will this start with out an operator in the seat.
I assume you had the top cover off to replace the solenoid.. So your familiar with removing the 3 top cover screws..The engine SHOULD START with the top cover removed IF the metering valve is free..and you have good compression..and the engine is spinning over fast enough..What color smoke do you get from the exhaust while cranking? IF THE ENGINE FIRES WHILE THE TOP COVER IS OFF..YOU HAVE TO REACH IN AND PULL THE LINKAGE TO SHUT OFF, TO GET IT TO SHUT DOWN..TOWARDS THE BACK OF THE PUMP
Black smoke while cranking, can I do this alone. Or will engine over speed.
YOU CAN DO IT ALONE..Once it fires.. push the throttle to idle..its going to be "messy" cuz the fuel is going to "spew".. YOU ARE TRYING TO START IT IN FULL FUEL, RIGHT?? WIDE OPEN THROTTLE..
Usually don't have to do wot, I will try. And you caught that I have a 410 not a 310.
didnt catch that...since your all over the inj.pump...can you give me the #'s off the name plate on the inj. pump?
H4 db4 429-5564 10918483 're502376
OK..The DB4 is prone to "cam ball" failure..BUT lets not jump the gun yet..When you had the TC off..did you see ANY SIGNS of water or rust?? Was the metering valve free..its the valve that sits in the pump that the govenor arm hooks to..with the little [diameter] spring on the right hand side..of the BIG spring in the center of the pump. IT SHOULD move back and forth with your finger.
Moves nice. Should I try to start it now. Without top cover. I dont see rust. Or anything looks clean.
Should I still try to start without top cover.
YUP..just be prepared to shut it down if it starts
Doesn't run. Hey how do you time this pump.
Ok well. Gonna pull pump tomorrow and send to shop to have it looked at. Will let you know what happens next.
Just checked the pump breakdown..the drive shaft is keyed to the drive gear, some are not, which requires engine timing to be set before pump removal.. Your going to need a PULLER to get the gear off the drive shaft..the gear will have 2 holes in it to allow the puller to be screwed in..good luck..TPG
Thanks for your help.
Just too muddle things up here.....shouldnt a 410 G have a DE-10 in it, not a DB-4?
The numbers off the side of the pump shoud be posted. What would this change?
The pump numbers should be in the tread. What would this change exactly.
Sorry, my mistake,looks like you have an early 410g Did you ever confirm 12 volts at the the shut off solenoid while cranking? Fuel at the injectors does not mean the solenoid is powered.
Replaced injector pump. Still no go. Loaded it and sent to dealer. Will let you know what they find.
Spray starting ether into the intake? At least that would eliminate compression and some other mechanical issues. I have a refillable sprayer that I could fill with diesel and spray that into the intake while it's cranking...
"replaced the pump"..that was probably an expensive guess?? should have sent it to me..oh well..maybe next time.
I didn't read all the posts, but from the first few I read it almost sounds like you got a bad batch of fuel, because you first mentioned it was hard starting but ran good all day, then the next day it would not start, did you happen to add more fuel for the next day when it would not start? Just a thought? won't hurt to check it out. Good Luck with it...
I have a 310g that won't start and I am looking for the fuel cutoff solinoid
P#>> 26214 {Stanadyne**
An old thread but I know this is an old thread but this is how I was led here. Yes my 310 sat for a while and the fuel filter filled up with rust I changed it a few times but now I have to manually pump the air out of the system every time I start it. It will start then die after about 10 seconds and have air in the system. I open the bleeder on the filter base pump the air out, pump pressure on the system after cranking 5 to 10 seconds it will start and run. It seems to me that the fuel it running back into the tank or something like that creating an air pocket. If someone has an idea I would appreciate it.
310 A, B, C, D..??? Follow the line from the filter back to the fuel tank.. between the 2, you'll find a supply pump or lift pump.. its probably full of rust and crud, holding the valves open.. allowing the fuel to go back to the tank.. You might find a water separator also.. drain it.. take it apart & clean it.. Depending on what injection pump is on your hoe.. it may have a check valve on top of the inj. pump going back to the tank.. return line.. IF the check ball is smashed out of it, that can contribute to the bleed back also.. Good luck & I hope this helps.. The lift pumps aren't expensive.. make sure you get the rubber grommets that go on the lines too..
Thanks, 310G I am trying to figure if there is a check valve somewhere, in the filter base or lift pump that may be stuck open or if just change the lift pump and go from there. Thanks again I will change the lift pump.