I have a 2006 Volvo ECR58 Straight. I bought it with some of the wiring rigged up, however the excavator ran well at time of purchase. Current stats: Battery and alternator - 13.6v Fuel - 1/2 tank Throttled at half speed Auto-idle - shut off 4 cylinder Yanmar Aftermarket fuel shut off solenoid Here is the current issue: I can start the engine just fine. Once the engine gets up to operating temperature, the engine shuts off on its own for a fraction of a second, then fires itself back up. It happens sporadically as I have tried to narrow it down by putting it under load, crawling or operating accessories, and it still does it. Here are some possible factors that may help. It only seems to do it when the engine is idled up. When at a flat idle, it doesn't seem to do it. Also, if I don't touch any controls, it may shut off and not turn itself back on (within a fraction of a second). Although, if I engage the hydraulics, ie. Simply traversing or extending the arm or boom or bucket, it will kick itself back on. I think it may be something with the fuel shut off solenoid going out on me, but I'm not sure. Here is a link to the solenoid I have installed. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2027750495...8veruskw&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=FB_MSG Please help me figure this out. I clearly dont know enough about diesel engines to eradicate the issue on my own. Thank you for your time. Matt
Good day Frm my information you have a relay which is actiavted by pin 11 of the VECU in the form of a ground signal. To trouble shoot you could given a independant ground to the relay thus by-passing the ECU. Please see attched Kind regards Uffex
Thank you so much. I will try this and update this forum with results. Thank you again for the photo as a reference. Matt
I didn't quite get to this today. However, I did want to gather more precise information about what is happening to the machine as it is doing this. I had something interesting happen for the first time today. I had the machine at about half throttle until it warmed up in use (as usual). Once it reached operating temperature, it didn't die, however it sputtered almost until it shut off, but I raised the throttle into it's highest position. Only after i did that, did the engines RPMs reflect as if it were at half throttle. I also have installed a digital volt meter installed, and immediately as it began to die, the voltage dropped from 12.2v to 11.5v. If the system isn't receiving the entire 12v+, then I can at least understand why it is shutting down. However, I do not know what would cause this. Is this the alternator maybe crashing out mid use? Or is this potentially a bad battery that does not hold charge? **For the record - the battery did seem to drop in voltage as the engine was warming up to operating temperature. When initially the excavator is turned on, the battery reads 13.4-13.6v at half throttle. Then it will fluctuate between 12.8-13.2v for about 5 minutes, then drop to 12.2-12.4v after an additional 5 minutes. Could this all be a bad battery or alternator not supplying enough voltage to the system as it operates? (Also, volts dropped from 13.2 to 12.5 when 3 LED lights were turned on. It seems like a fairly high drop for LEDs...) I will try bypassing the ECU this weekend, but I'd like to see thoughts on this prior to doing that if possible.. Thank you, Matt
Good day Matt If the voltage remains above 12.2 my suspicions would be inclined to establish first if the relay is at fault > check the lines for both continuity and ground > it maybe that the temperature sensor is miss informing the ECU is also a possible line to follow (hot shut down). Great you keep us informed. Kind regards Uffex
Update - First of all, the fuel cut off solenoid was replaced today. The old solenoid when removed from the housing turned out to have the nipple of the solenoid cut off entirely by the previous owner. (Clearly an issue) I found the schematic you attached above and was able to find the same one in my e-manual. My new issue (as embarrassing as it is to say) is I don't believe I've located the correct relay. There is only (1) relay that has the same quantity and color wires going to it in the area as my e-manual references it at. It has: (1) yellow, (2) white, and (1) red/white. The same as the e-manual references and your Screenshot above. I have 12v going into this relay from the white fuse wire side (top left in schematic of RE2701) also 12v to the #1 terminal from the ignition switch when it is in the ON position (bottom left in schematic of RE2701). However, when the ignition switch is turned to the start position and held, the relay does not stay energized for more than a half second and it de-energizes, leaving me with no power running through the relay and the wiper disengaged from the open contact. The configuration of the terminals is unique to all other relays in the relative area of where the e-manual references. However, when I looked it up online thinking it would be easier to replace it if it were cheap, the relay I found is annotated as a "preheating relay" which is labeled as RE2301 in the schematic. (See attached photo) Yet, this is the matching color and quantity of wires. Unfortunately, the numbers on the wire identifiers wrapped around the wiring harness via zip ties at each connection point are worn off. I am not sure if there is a better depicting image I can reference, however the relay in the photo is the relay that is engaging the fuel solenoid when I manually pinch the wiper in the relay to make contact with the "open" terminal. Therefore, either the relay is mislabeled on this site and other sites as well, the relay I was messing around with (that looks just like the one shown in the photo) was the wrong one, or I've confirmed my incompetence. Is there a way to confirm or deny the relay in the attached image is the correct relay? Also, if the schematics are incorrectly labeled, what relay should I be testing? I apologize for the lengthy responses, however I am attempting to be thorough. As for the heat sensor, I believe that will be my next issue. Thank you for the time again. Matt
Good day Matt Please see attached may help out, I am colorblind and I believe the guy that makes the wiring has the same affliction, I never trust those color schemes its as well to follow the cables through. Please check that you do not have an alternator fault. It could be the cause, if the hour clock runs with a stopped engine and the key on sure sign of alternator faults. Kind regards Uffex
So, to verify, I will go home and turn the key to the ON position and check to see if the hour meter increases. If this hour meter does increase with the engine not running, what specific alternator fault does this indicate? For the record, I replaced the alternator with a remanufactured one about when I started this thread. I had the alternator tested at an auto parts store locally and it was putting out 14.2v. (I'm not sure if that tests the voltage regulator, but I figured this may be useful information.) I read the voltage output on the machine after installation and it does NOT put out any voltage. This was another one of my questions I would eventually be getting to, however if they are all interconnected and I can solve them all at once, I will not complain! I will also verify the Safety Start Relay relay and the main relay to ensure it is in working order, but seeing as it runs with the old (nipple cut) fuel shut off solenoid that the relays should be in working order. Matt
Good day Matt The fault with the alternator is that of blown diodes, it rather sounds as if your issue revolves around the alternator, I suggest we get that sorted first. There is information on the web regarding faults of this nature I seem to recall Delco Remi publication if I find I will post it. Kind regards Uffex
I looked around online for that publication and am not sure if I was looking at the right one. I did go back to the fuel cut off solenoid relay and double checked the voltages at the relay and the switch. The attached diagram shows power to terminal "15/54" as constant in the ON position. However, when I checked the power at the switch, it is only receiving power when in the start position. Could this be a cause? Again, the relay and switch at 15/54 do not have any power until in the START position. The cut off relay only has power from the main relay, as shown in the diagram. All of the other connections have no power until the key is in START. Matt
So I believe I just corrected this. The hot wire coming in from the battery to the switch was on the wrong terminal. Although, it ran with it on the wrong terminal before I switched out the cut off solenoid. So what I did was replaced the new cut off solenoid with the old one that had the nipple cut off and no wires hooked up to it, and it fired right up, no issue. I still only have about 3v to the solenoid. Frustrating... Matt
I have an ECR58D also. The machine is powerful and I like it. Mine has a TAG manufacturing aftermarket thumb on it. The thumb is tougher than the bushings and pin at the end of the stick. I keep breaking and bending the main pin at the end of the stick. Anybody got a factor thumb lying around? Dont need the cylinder.
Good day Matt Im not so sure where we are if the issue is resolved attched cable connector info. Kind regards Uffex
Well, this is a good news post. I trusted your input with not trusting the wire color. Turns out, whoever owned this machine before, swapped the wires in the harness on the fuel shut off solenoid. The red was the white and white was red. After figuring that out, I swapped them back and it fired right up. What I sigh of relief. I also checked the voltage output on the alternator and it was working! They must be tied together in the ECU or something as you mentioned before. AWESOME ADVICE! THANK YOU! Then, once I had it running, I got it back up to operating temperature and it died again. I had purchased a new temperature sensor while waiting to work on the fuel issue again in hopes it would fix the issue. It did not. Like I said, I got it back up to operating temperature and just as I was having hope, it died. So we have solved one problem to find ourselves back at the original problem. (Still happy about the fuel shut off though.) Now I'm wondering what I need to do to repair this issue. Again, the engine starts, runs and goes until it hits operating temperature on the gauge. It has a new temperature sensor, however has stop leak in the antifreeze. I am draining that and replacing it with 50/50 as shown in the manual. Could this stop leak prevent the antifreeze from doing its job and cooling the engine? If so, could replacing the antifreeze potentially fix the issue? (Im aware as well that the stop leak was there to fix an existing problem that I will have to diagnose once the regular antifreeze is in there.) Other than that though, is there anything else I can look at right away to see if there is a malfunctioning part or system? Thank you so much, and words don't do it justice, but I appreciate the help more than you know. Matt
Good day Matt Distance diagnostics is never easy but having trawled all the possible sources of information i have found what I believe may well be your trouble. I must confess I have never attempted what Im suggesting, on the fuel pump you have a wax stat, I would if possible dismantle and fix it in the default position and try the machine to see if that solves the problem.See attached. Kind regards Uffex
Apologies I posted an incomplete illustration.You may need to vent the fuel system after change. Kind regards Uffex