I've owned it 2 years and less than 20 hours put on it in that time! 1770 hrs approx on meter. Used it about 2 months ago for 3 hours and no problem with engine. A week ago it was used for about 1hr and then I Shut it off after using and opened engine compartment to shut off the power switch. There was Oil all over engine,rad etc.. . No oil not showing on the dip stick! I added oil and started it. Removed oil filler cap and intense blow-by coming out along with lots of oil! Also Puking oil out the dipstick tube. Understand this was not a gradual degradation of the engine and there's been nothing previous to this to indicate a problem. It sounds fine when running. No strange noises. Starts normal. Possible hole in Piston or broken piston?
Anything is possible but check the easy things first, make sure the crankcase breather is not blocked, if ok do a compression test and that will indicate bad piston, stuck or broken piston rings etc.
X2 on crankcase breather Not sure if this is right. .. https://www.messicks.com/parts/new-holland/5801542914
Also check the air filter. Engine needs to breath properly in all respects.
Rare but possible for the turbo to push boost past the impeller shaft seal into the crankcase.
All good recommendations coming in! If anything Rare is going to happen to anyone, it's me.....! I wish it to be something simple like a plugged crankcase breather and or filter. If it's something bigger, I hope it's the Turbo Seal instead of something catastrophic in the engine!
if you had a dead hole that thing would be shaking and down on power. I'm with Coaldust on this one. BTW don't forget to make sure the oil drain tube is clear on the turbo.
Thank you. Had me baffled that engine performance is normal. Nothing was alerting me to a problem. I imagine the engine could have seized up if run much longer. Will be checking everything closely.
I'd like a plugged breather for $400
Can I disable the turbo somehow to rule it out?
I have the Manual on my phone and PC now so that should be helpful.
I think I need a service manual. This is called operators manual. 221 pages. Useful info but don't see the Crankcase Ventilation in it. Still looking. Not very user friendly in the PDF format, imho.
hd66: I have got the same problem with my Case SR250. Did you ever resolve your issue? It is not my turbo or oil return line, or air filters. All new. Am about to begin the replacement of the "blowby recirculation filter", whatever that is, (crankcase ventilation?) as recommended in the operators manual at 2000 hrs. I am well below that at 1400 hrs., but after obtaining a new "blowby filter" at the Case dealer, I can see how easy it could probably become blocked and plugged well before 2000 hrs. I bought a 2 volume Case SR250 service manual, and I cannot find anything in it about "blowby recirculation filter" or its function. Thanks ahead for any feedback on this.
FYI you can easily disconnect the turbo. Plug the oil feed line that feeds the turbo. Plug the drain line that goes back to pan. Start the engine at idle with no manifold on and you will see which cylinder is causing grief , if that is the problem. I did it recently to a Komatsu D155 dozer engine to find out which cylinder was not firing properly. Not even that noisy with plugs and muffs. Hopefully your crankcase vent is plugged, or tubo seal is gone and not big hole down side of piston. Hope it helps. Simon C
I've done nothing so far. Where's the blow-by re-circulation filter? I might toss it out and not use one! Have not found a diagram of it yet.
Usually there is some kind of hose that comes off of the Valve Cover that either goes to vent out bottom of machine, or goes back into the air intake to reburn. Not sure on your unit, but operators manual may have something on cleaning out or servicing of crankcase ventilation. If you find a hose coming off the valve cover and send it out towards the air , you can see how much real blow-bye there is with the engine revved up and hydraulics running over relief. Engine needs to be warmed a bit and revved up and under load. Simon c
hd66: I have found NO info on this filter on internet. Only mention of it is in Operators Manual under 2000 hr maintenance. (Section 7-45?) No mention of what it is or what it does...... it is located on the lower right on back of engine, on what I believe is timing gear cover. There is a "picture" of the cover to be removed in op manual. You need to remove turbo air cooler & hoses above radiator, the radiator & hoses, fan shield, and fan blades to get to it. (3) 10 mm nuts holding on cover. I did not remove attached hoses on cover, it pushes out of way pretty well. I took mine out this morning, (wasn't too bad a job getting to it other than all the oil all over everything from it spitting it out dipstick!), Filter is held in place by a decent sized snap ring on a spindle. Had to invest in a heavier duty snap pliers. Hope to get the snap ring reinstalled tomorrow, and start putting the radiators back on. Going to wash and flush out everything with solvent to try to get the oil out of air system. Filter I took out is obviously part of the oil system, as it looks like an old dirty oil filter after a period of time. It does not look "plugged", Element seems to be a polyester fiber. Is not very big, coffee cup diameter, maybe 1.5 in. thick. If I get it replaced and back together, going to run it up to temp incrementally, checking oil and coolant regularly, before working it hard. If this does not work, it has been suggested that I try a motor flush cleaning treatment by Amsoil, Cenpeco, or the like. Might consider doing it anyway, as obviously something is gumming up the system, and needs to get out. Why they put this "blowby filter" in such an inaccessible area to check and service is a mystery...... Will let you know if this works. Good luck on yours. Thanks for starting this thread.
Thanks for all the details and the best wishes dealing with my Skid Steer! Will save me time knowing the details. Nice to have someone else dealing with the same issue on the same model Skid Steer. I definitely have to get at that filter. Will look for the cover pic in my manual. Not looking forward to changing the filter. Hope you get a good result.
I looked again today, and it's section 7-63. Got my snap ring back on and reinstalled he cover, but that is as far as I got today. The filter seems to have two oval openings opposite each other on the inside, that I assume need to be positioned directly over what look to be corresponding holes in the spindle that the filter slides onto. Had to push and tap the new filter on pretty firmly to get it past the snap ring groove. There are little collar inserts on the 3 10mm bolt holes on filter cover. One of mine slipped out on reinstall, but I was lucky to fish it out from below in all the oil muck. Watch them. Never did this before, but am going to try to attach image. I took this with the new filter installed and snap ring in place. Cover is at right hanging loose. Hope this helps. Hope this solves our problem!
Picture is good and the technical points. Nice to see location of filter. Can't take mine apart where its located now. Is there a breather tube running from Valve cover down to the filter housing? I see a hose coming out there and goes downward but can see where it goes. Do I need to lift cab to get at any other vent hose or is there just one?
I took a closer look with a light and followed the hose with my hand. My Rad obstucks most of it. Seems to go in to the filter housing near the bottom. Where does it exit? It needs to exit somewhere and go to the air cleaner I am guessing? The hose going from valve cover to filter housing needs to he blown out with air and maybe cleaner of some sort run through it to loosen gummed oil. Diesel would probably be safe on the hose. Same thing with where it exits and where that line goes to. The hose would need to be disconnected so junk could come out and not end up in the intake! Could pull a piece of rag through hose if it's removed
Good questions. I have not taken the time to track down where the (actually) two hoses go to. That side of the engine is absolutely packed solid. I'm pretty sure the injector pump is back there, but with the fuel tank in front, it is very tight. I did not lift the cab either for this or when I replaced the turbo recently. Several mechanics I trusted all were unanimous in that my problem was a bad turbo oil seal. I felt like I was confirming a cancer diagnosis with multiple doctors. Old turbo vane shaft was a little loose when moved. Took a while, but I put in a new turbo unit, around $700.00, and all seemed great for about 4 hours of use. I feel like I'm now replacing parts without being sure of problem, but sure wish like hell I'd been aware of this filter when I replaced turbo, as this housing was staring me in the face for weeks then. Going to see if I can track those hoses down. Thanks for allowing me to rant.
I know the frustration with these issues. Very helpful to have someone dealing with same problem in same model. Even others suggestions from their experience with other machines is very helpful.
I'm using this SR250 occasionally at idle occasionally and not blowing out the oil. Will blow out the oil if engine run at higher RPM so avoiding that. Highly likely the turbo seal is leaking pressure in to the engine.
The turbo would have to be badly gone to push oil out the dipstick, but is possible, especially under high boost pressure. More likely a cut in one cylinder wall which would come up with a compression test. Could pull turbo off or check impellers to see if lots of end play. Pull air intake and exhaust pipe off to do a proper check. Simple no real cost test. That is where I would start. Simon C
Thank you. I will soon be moving it to a place I can work on it and will do the Compression test.
Let us know what you find for future reference. And just for info., have seen a small Kubota powered Bobcat with 100 hours with hole down side of liner, that still ran. Compression test will rule that one out quickly. Simon C
Been a while since I replaced that "Bypass Blowby Filter" on my SR250, and so far have not had any repeats of dipstick oil pressure release...... even after pretty hard use with extreme mower on hillsides, and a lot of bales moved and stacked. Paranoid, I'm constantly checking oil levels, and looking for leaks now, but probably should have been doing more of that previously anyway. So far so good. I recommend anybody else with this problem to check it out. Happy wrenching.
My bad, it's actually called the "Blowby Recirculation Filter" in owners manual under 2000 hour service recommendations.
Glad it was just a crankcase blow-bye filter. Thanks for posting. Seen a Cat 950 B freeze the filter in minus 40 C and pushed all the oil out the same. Part of on-going maintenance. Simon C
Can I cut the hose and vent it to atmosphere?
You can vent to atmosphere on some engines. It depends on how much crankcase pressure your engine is developing. The higher the pressure the more oil will come with the vapour and make a very dirty engine compartment. If a new filter does not fix it , you have a problem on your engine that needs to be fixed. Have seen where a hose was sent to bottom of machine to vent outside, as long as the hose does not freeze off in winter. Did you ever check out the turbo for end play. How much is the new filter? Simon C
Knew some guys at the 24 hour Numb bum ice race. They were in the lead against an American dream team consisting of former AMA champions in several different types of racing. They were riding a XR600 Honda and the crackcase breather froze and it subsequentially blew oil all over the place. They were so pi$$ed they just loaded up snd went home. They had some cardboard or something in front of the engine to try and keep it warmer but -20C and 90+kmh on the long straights was just too cold for a 4 stroke. The dream team was very impressed that a team of 2 riders was so fast and sad they had to drop out of the race.