Hi fellas, we have 259D and when we use it for a while like 1hr later it will slow down if it has just a bucket, but will crawl if any attachments like power rake on it. It operates like a champ before this happens. Machine serial: FTL21717 We have the following event codes present E459-2 Machine Engine Rated Horsepower Output Changed Engine power rating mismatch E568-2 Machine Unexpected Left Motor Forward Speed Detected Check the motor speed sensor and wiring E569-2 Machine Unexpected Left Motor Reverse Speed Detected Check the motor speed sensor and wiring E570-2 Machine Unexpected Right Motor Forward Speed Detected Check the motor speed sensor and wiring E571-2 Machine Unexpected Right Motor Reverse Speed Detected Check the motor speed sensor and wiring Things done so far, replaced air filters, oil filter, fuel filter, fuel screen.
E459 is the first one you should tackle. Keep an eye on your messages. For the other 4 Events pull the track motor speed sensors from both sides and make sure the nose end of the sensors are clean and undamaged.
understood, I’ve been watching the messages and no new messages logged, these just stay there. If you would be kind to let me know as to where those track motor speed sensors are located please
The clue is in the name...... on the track motors. The doodad with the cable hanging out of it.
What have you done so far as regards checks of the fuel system.?
Thank you for the diagram, is track motor reachable by lifting the cab, and also do we have to unbolt it or visually check it, do you have diagram that zoomed out a bit so we can tell where exactly it’s located in relation to skid steer.
The speed sensors are priority #2. The 4 Events for them will NOT cause the machine to act the way you say it is acting. See my question above about the fuel system. That should be your main focus for now. They are those turny things with teeth on the oustide of them that drive the tracks, that's why they're called track motors.
Ok I will raise the cab tomorrow and give this little fella all deserved bath in the afternoon!!
Oh just noticed your fuel system question. We ran the machine until fuel was gone and shut off due to starvation, then replaced the fuel water separator filter, inline little fuel filter. Then filled the tank with freshest diesel that Country Fair can offer. Anything else needed?
Couple of things that spring to mind. 1. While the tank was low you really should have let the machine sit overnight then drained all the water and sediment from the bottom of the tank first thing the following morning. There is a bung accessible from undeneath the machine. 2. The head of the secondary fuel filter/water separator is famous for the small ports in it getting blocked up with crud. Remove the entire filter head from the machine, then refer to the RH diagram and pull all the connections, elbows etc, out of it. Blow through the head passages with compressed air and do the same for all the connections, verify that the check valve #3 is operating correctly then reassemble. 3. It's worthwile testing the pressure relief valve #5 to make sure it is relieving correctly. IIRC the relief pressure is 1.5psi or thereabouts. 4. Does the electric fuel pump run when you turn on the key before starting the engine.?
Thank you for being so pationate of others’ problems. People like you contribute to society greatly! 1. Next time when it runs low on fuel we can empty it. Or we could dump the fuel. Bung located by removing bottom plate where it drains oil? I thought hydraulic discharge port is there? I remember when we first time oil changing and removed wrong bolt and hydraulic fluid came out. 2. Will clean it with break cleaner then compressed air! 3. I don’t have a way to test it. I guess I could blow on it, if it’s 1.5psi it shouldn’t that hard. 4. Fuel bump does prime/run before start
Answers 1. Next time the tank is low would be fine. Tanks on machines like yours tend to accumulate cr@p for the simple reason that generally no-one takes much care of how clean a container they use for the fuel they dump into the machine. 2. That would work. 3. It does not take a lot of pressure to get it to open if my memory is correct. EDIT: IF you have any questions about it then post back. It's just a matter of finding the info. 4. Good info. That ticks one box. Regarding the E459 I think you already have all the info you need to get into that.
Sounds good, got good amount of home work. Will report back in a few days! Thanks again Nige!
we’ve just flip opened the cab and checked underneath, little bit of dirt got washed but there is no way for us to get to the speed sensors, do track motors need to be removed in order to get to the sensors?
Someone else with practical experience needs to answer that but from all I know they can be accessed on the machine. It may be a case of feeling for the single bolt that holds the sensor in place because it's unlikely you wil lbe able to get eyes on it unless maybe you use a mirror. Either way the speed sensors are problem #2 on the list. First thing is fixing the E459 Event.
Nige is the man ..heed his wise words. Speed sensors are a pain to get to...best to remove tracks...or keeping tracks on, slide the whole track assembly away from machine to gain access.
I've pulled the sensors in the field many times without removing the tracks. Its a PITA but doable. Much easier if you can slide the track frames out a few inches on the axles. Seems odd to me to get speed sensor faults on both sides and both directions at the same time. I have seen the wiring for them get damaged. Usually its right where the harness passes thru the hole in the frame.
Ok good news fellas. Machine is fixed! It was 2 injectors that gone bad. Here is a brief notes. Symptom: Machine bogged down after warm up, almost crawl with hydraulic attachments. Troubleshooting: - wash machine and wash radiator with tool from Amazon - Didn’t fix issue - Checked all connections and cables, fuses. - replaced all filter, fuel, air, oil - Didn’t fix issue - checked fuel pump if priming at start up, it primes - After engine warms up and start idling irregular I’ve pulled the injector plugs one by one while engine is on and determined injector 2 and 4 didn’t make any noticeable change in engine sound, which made me believe injector issue. Machine will throw warning and these will be logged as events. - pulled injector cover (referenced video below) and replaced 2 injectors and calibrated=programmed injector using CAT software and tool bought from Amazon. Now machine is back to normal. CAT software and tool also helped me to find out our tilt sensor is bad and that got replaced too. Here are the links Wash radiator Tool: https://a.co/d/2wcmuwM Injector replace video I’ve found on YouTube (be careful on foot pound torque referenced in the video, it’s not accurate) Also small coolant line on top of injector cover can be cut 3/4” on top left and stuffed with one of the harness bracket bolts that is removed during injector wiring harness removal to avoid coolant leak. Longer tube that’s left can be lifted up and tucked somewhere vertically and will not leak coolant. Also 3/4” removed from tip did not make any difference once you reinstall the coolant line. CAT tool Amazon.com Injectors: Buy from CAT dealer, it’s $900. I found out that Denso injectors for Kubota for $275 works but they will not register with ECM programming with CAT software to allow adjustment in volume/frequency to be optimal for the engine (there is a long write up regarding how each individual injector from factory has variance and it is adjusted by codes programmed to ECM) CAT part number is 608-2959 and equivalent DENSO part is 1J770-53051. I suggest programming it in first before installing it. Use small amount of grease to keep the copper washer falling from injector.
ET accepted the Denso numbers from the injector when I changed one on a 289D. It was only asking for the numbers, not a trim file like other Cat engines I have changed injectors on.
I get “The required conditions have not been met” error! What gives?
I'm sorry I can't help further, it was late last year & I didn't keep a picture of the injector. I know I had to try a couple of times because I wasn't reading the number properly with my failing eyesight. I think D, O & 0 look pretty similar.
I’m not saying it’s your problem but we’ve had multiple 259’s do the exact same thing yours is doing and all of them were busted wiring harness’s on the motor. I never specifically asked where the problems were but they all average around $1800 for the repairs and it fixed all of them. They would throw random codes and then loose power, might be worth looking at the wiring on the motor and seeing if you see a spot they could be rubbing on.
The first time I repaired a 289D with the low power after running for a while, it was due to no.4 injector fault. After replacing it, we put it on a test bench & it would stop injecting after a couple of test cycles. The next time it played up, it was due to the E459-2 fault code that was caused by a broken wire on the earth for the ECM power relay coil.
Was the machine throwing a code before you replaced the injector? Haven’t a problem with machine after running a couple hrs starts to die when moving then climbs back up in rpm’s like normal. No codes on machine
No, there wasn't any fault codes. The injector would just stop injecting & cause a miss on one cylinder once it warmed up. It would normally have to be stopped and cooled down before it would start working again. Mine wouldn't come good again while it was still being used.
Thank you for the response. Have you tryd running injector cleaning in it before replacing injector? I plan on emptying tank today putting fresh fuel and Archoil 6400 injector cleaner, Praying it cleans it out lol. Also how did you figure out which injector was bad? Thank you!
No, but we were able to replicate the fault on a fuel pump test bench with clean calibration fluid. After a couple of test cycles to warm up it would just stop injecting. I had a laptop, so I could do cylinder cutouts while the fault was occurring & work out which cylinder wasn't operating.