Just accuired a 2019 259d with 120hrs. At full throttle engine rpms drop down to 1600 with very little load and when turning. Is that normal? Seems underpowered.
Post a Serial Number please. It would be nice to know exactly which one of the dozen or so models of 259D you have. What have you done to it so far in the way of checks/maintenance.? Also with rubber bands for tracks your machine isn't classed as a Track Loader it's a Compact machine. I'll ask someone from forum admin to move this thread to the correct location where it will get more exposure.
Sorry for the wrong location. I didn't scroll down far enough to see the compact section. Whoops. I have not done anything but grease it so far. Posting here to see if there really is a problem before chasing something that is normal.
Do you have an Operation & Maintenance Manual.? If you are going your own maintenance that really is a must. Again a Serial Number is needed to identify the appropriate one. They are around $50 and can be downloaded from the web if you want one right now. I would suggest that you first take a look at the fuel tank drain, it probably hasn't been opened in years so the tank could easily have water and/or dirt in it. After that depending on S/N (can you see a recurring them here?) there may or may not be a screen in the fuel line between the tank and the fuel transfer pump. And all the above is before you even get to the fuel transfer pump and the water separator/filter. Is it black-smoking at all.? If it is then you should take a look at the condition of the air cleaner elements
Ok. Finally got back to the skidsteer. Machine serial number FTL20867. No black smoke out of exhaust.
Try these steps in order. 1. Drain any water & dirt out of the fuel tank. Best done after leaving the machine parked overnight on level ground. There are two possible drain plug locations as shown in the illustration below. It would be better if the tank was close to being empty for this because it can be a somewhat messy procedure unless you are quick. 2. Drain any water and dirt from the fuel filter/water separator. See Steps 2-4 of Page 1 of the attachment. See where these two steps get you before proceeding further. 3. Replace the inline fuel screen (#7 in the illustration below, if fitted) and also the main fuel filter/water separator. The inline filter Part Number is 416-5884 The main fuel filter is a 363-5819 and needs two O-Rings, 4L-7711 & 483-6423 to replace it. See attachment for complete instructions.
It sounds as though you do not have an Operation & Maintenance Manual. If you are doing all your own maintenance it really is an essential. Click this LINK , you can get a pdf version on CD for $49 or in paper form for $57.
Thanks Nige. I did get the manual just have not had time to look at it. We did use it again today and the symptoms got progressively worse so does seem like a fuel supply issue. Hopefully will have time tomorrow to look at it. Will give in update when I have it fixed.
In that case I cannot suggest strongly enough to start draining water/dirt starting from the fuel tank and working towards the engine. You really need to get into the maintenance side of that manual sooner rather than later to give you a better diea what you are doing.
The engine really shouldn't bog much, certainly not down to 1600. The D model Cats don't let the engine bog, if the load exceeds the power available they cut flow to keep the engine rpm up.
Figured out the problem. The electric fuel lift pump isn't working. Closest dealer wants $230. Are the aftermarket pumps any good?
Flip a coin. Maybe you could find a good aftermarket pump, maybe not.
You said the pump wasn't working. Did you check to see if it was getting power.?
Thought of that after I left for home. Will definitely check that before installing a new one. Though it seems like a somewhat common problem with the original pumps going out.
What I would also suggest is get the pump off and take a good look inside it, and inside the filter head while you are there. The systems on these machines are known (at least here on HEF) for suffering from blockages caused by failure to ensure clean fuel is put in the tank and also to do any basic maintenance such as draining out water & dirt from the tank and every other component North of it.
I put this in my 259...working like a champ. Grab 2 and put the extra in your tool box https://www.autozone.com/fuel-systems/universal-fuel-pump/p/mr-gasket-universal-fuel-pump-4-7-psi-35-gph-electric-diesel-12d/441280_0_0
Update on issue. Finally took it to dealer. Injectors are bad. 5k to replace them there. Should I buy aftermarket and just replace myself?
120 hours and bad injectors.... Not buying it. Is the 120 a typo?
No it is not. 120 hrs.
Like HMC I am more than a little skeptical that all 4 injectors could go bad with only 120 hours of operation. 1 maybe, but not all 4 at the same time. If you bite the bullet and agree to the dealer replacing all the injectors for $5k get it in writing beforeheand that if injector replacement does not fix your problem then you will not only get your $5k back but you also get to keep the new injectors. See what they say to that.......
I should have been more clear in my description. They are telling me one absolutely needs replacing and two more should be replaced. At that point may as well replace the fourth one. Labor is essentially the same for one or four.
That makes things somewhat clearer. Did they tell you exactly HOW the injectors were tested.? Are they proposing to use Reman injectors (if available) or new.? I'd still ask them to put their money where their mouth is and guarantee you a fix by replacing the injectors or your money back.
At minimum, somebody needs to verify supply pressure by teeing into the line from the last filter to the high pressure pump. Deeming injectors bad without that test is just plain wrong. As is not verifying that the rail pressure relief valve isn't dump rail pressure early. The supply spec is either 3 or 8 psi. I'll have to dig to verify that value, but, having been around common rail fuel injection since it's inception, I believe the ONLY way to kill the injectors that early is to have run severely contaminated fuel through them. Everything here points to a low pressure side supply issue. With any supply issue, the high pressure side is where all the symptoms show up. As to doing injectors yourself, they need to be programmed (calibrated) by the dealer or equivalents software.