Unit 0300209719 Model 50338300 Spec 1357663 Would anyone happen to have a page or two on how to set up the governor to run the rack? What is the injector height?
I have an overhaul manual for 53 Series, injector height is determined by type of piston and type of injector along with gear train timing. Do you have trunk type pistons, crosshead pistons, turbo charged or non-turbo'd. Some use N45 or N 50 injectors . Some use a whole bunch of different injectors for turbocharged trunk type piston versus crosshead pistons. I do not have the parts book so determine by piston type and design of engine. Better post more information, and if you have never set the governor linkage including the idle and buffer screw, be aware that in 3 seconds the motor will be grenading if not 100 % and injectors stay full fuel. Good idea to find an old guy who did lots of them, and if the peerson does not know what the vise grip pliers are for just run and don't look back. Any seasoned 53 mechanic knows what they are for. But each to their own. Simon C
Heavy on the vise grips, most of time it can be seen where used before on rack.
Tenwheeler are you in northwest GA ?
Need 2 pairs if it is a V-block, one for each side. Only thing that can help unstuck an injector in full fuel with engine running away. Blower flap is not guaranteed, and have seen from experience. Simon C
Walking a good distance away and observing from there works too.
This is exactly what I was going to type before I read your post.
It’s one of those procedures that can’t adequately be written down. There isn’t words in our language to describe it. Despite whatever level of reading comprehension. It can only be shown. Once you see it, then written prose makes more sense.
I am the old guy but the last one I turned a screw on was an 8V 92 about 20 years ago. Only books I have are for 92 and 71 series. I AINT SKERT! Have about 6 height pins but none are close to where these are set. That tag is all the info I have and the injectors are 60's as per the tag. All advice and sharing from your manual is greatly appreciated!
East Central on the Savannah River.
Has no flap.
A man named Grady and Kennedy helped me years ago. Grady was not much on reading but he knew 2 stroke Detroits large and small. I understand what you mean and agree. Words also cannot explain what one sounds like in 3 seconds as well. I watched around the corner of a shop door when Kennedy shut one down. Person that started ran like hell.
So You have 5E60 Injectors according to your tag on the valve cover. Is it a aluminum valve cover with a one piece silicone seal. The book in front of me shows that injector for cross head pistons. So the correct injector height is suppose to be 1.480 for a 3-53T. Your engine will have smaller pulleys in the front compared to trunk type piston engines. The reason I said that is because some guys changed over to the new non-leak valve covers with old trunk type pistons. A couple good pictures would tell a lot. I have all the tools for tune up and governor adjustment along with the special piston pin tool. Any more questions. Simon C
It is an aluminum valve cover with small pulleys and spin on filters. Looks like a late production engine to me. Army surplus that looks like an all original low hour unit. It is too far away for pictures but the last two injectors came in today. They could not get it to start after a vacation. I put an electric fuel pump on the engine supply line to prime it. It had two fuel leaks on the lines before the pump. Repaired those, ran and removed electric pump. It would not start. Tried some starting fluid. Pulled the valve cover and found an injector plunger stuck down. Replaced that injector. Planed to sneak it in without messing with everything else. Found the other two injectors control rods not behaving properly and ordered two more injectors. Will start from the beginning daylight 30 Thursday? THANK YOU SIMON!
Punch & hammer light taps check & sweet words to her bump her over or have a fire extinguisher ready to feed her after paln A & B fail to stop it
Hope you used a torque wrench on the injector hold down clamp as the correct torque is a tensioning of the hold down. Those should have spring back style fuel racks not like the rigid type ones. The last 53's built lasted quite well in the days I worked on them and were not leakers either. I am guessing that you have a double weight limiting speed governor, not a variable speed unit. What kind of machine is it in, skidder or forklift, or crane. Simon C
Watch ol2stroker on YouTube, he has some good videos on it
Torque wrench box was empty. Working on too many things at the same time. It was under a truck at the shop. I will double check it. It is a spring style rack. Limiting speed - yes. It is in a trencher. Someone stole the wheel off a grist mill and hooked up to a Detroit to dig ditches. I will get you a picture.
I struggle with this stuff but here it is.
Sweet bucket wheel haven't seen em in a long time.
This is the governor. It was all clean before I ran it with the valve cover off. I still need some help please!
The old injectors were set at about 1.540, using a dial caliper. I was reluctant to make that big of a change but found other similar settings on line to Simmons 1.480 and went with that. I even had that gauge. Installed an electric fuel pump before the primary filter and let it run while I put all the tools away. Took that pump out of the system. and cranked it at about 1/2 throttle. It came to life shortly and I kept it down at a lower speed " no tach " and checked all the fuel lines for leaks and worked it on up. Brought it back down and it shuts off with the throttle as it is pulled back. Push the throttle back up and it fired right up.
It runs great a the top 85% of throttle but if left running at lower speeds it starts to act like it is running out of fuel. If down around 750? RPM it will shut down. No one can tell me if this is a new thing or prexhisting condition. Ran it at higher speeds and shut it off. Hours later it was hard to start. Will go back with clear fuel lines and gauges. Did not take the top off the governor. The gasket would have broken and I did not have thin paper. Backed the buffer screw out. Tied the shut down full open. Throttle did not seem to make much difference 1/2 maybe. Ran the rack. Did not find an idle screw like I expected. It is probably the screw on the back of that long housing but I did not want to be a knob dicker. Any good advise and or copies for this unit out of the shop manual appreciated.
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The right side of your picture is the governor adjustment for high idle internally with shims. The screw sticking out is the buffer screw. It needs to be backed out before adjusting the fuel racks, then with the engine running you turn it in very gently until it goes up about 10-15 rpm, just enough to take the hunting out. go up a hair too much and it will run away! The engine should idle okay with it set properly unless you have a fuel supply issue of some kind. 1.480 is the correct setting for the injectors with the valves down. Not sure what else to say other than watching the injectors back out of full fuel when it is starting and watching that all the injectors are even in every position. Simon C
"Even" key note.
It's be a long time ago but I was working on one of those but it sounds like the injectors are not adjusted against the governor all the way.
Cereal box gasket for the governor. Side of the box over tap around & cut it out boom save $12.50
Thanks but I already have one in my truck. You must have worked with Ralph Williams also. He taught me how to do that in about 1978.
When the injectors are just sitting there, are they all inwards the same for start up. Have not done one for years but, need to have snap on the little U that the fuel rack arm goes into. Put your vice grips really solidly on the clevis where the governor linkage hooks up to the fuel rack with a pin. That is your protection device to be able to pull the fuel rack out of fuel when adjusting the buffer screw and testing for performance. By passing the governor with the fuel rack disconnected from the governor can be done, but those vicegrips best not fall off or it is all over. Have done this test before to prove if the engine runs okay without a governor hooked up. If it won't run okay without the governor hooked up, you can rest assured it won't run correctly with it connected. Don't be doing this test unless you are fully prepared and not been drinking. Simon C
That is the newest looking Cleveland I've ever seen. All the ones around here look about a half generation newer than Fred's Flintmobile. That 3-53 would be a big improvement over the dual fuel 'binder engine I've worked on (notice I didn't say fixed). But I don't think anything can dig a ditch more efficiently than a Cleveland.
This is a really nice looking machine. Looks like it was never used and shows 246 hours? Where do I start? Clear your mind grasshopper! I went through everything from you guys and everything else I could find. Went back and replaced the ratty looking line from the fuel tank, Primary fuel filter and cleaned out the check valve before I tested anything. Began from the beginning. It is a tight spot to work in. Used a mirror to look at the front two injectors levers. Got it running and did a little tweaking. I had forgotten how sweet these engines could run, just like a well oiled sowing machine. Wide open, anywhere in the middle, or low idle. I appreciate everyone's input!
Might be USN #(Navy) on hood & Oliver drab makes it looks ex gov & hours might be true. Got a peach to play on