I’ve got an 87 310c with the power loss problem related to the plastic ring in the injector pump coming apart. I have a reseal kit for the pump but I can’t figure out how to pop the gear off the front of the pump shaft. I’ve removed the hood and I’ve tried hitting the shaft with a brass punch and brass hammer bu there is simply no room to swing the hammer. I’m about ready to call a mobile mechanic...is there a secret to this or will I need to remove the entire radiator an remove the entire front cover? I tried removing fuel lines and sliding the pump back like I did on my old 310A. The pump slid pretty far back but wouldn’t come off.has anyone here had any success doing this?
Welcome to HEF USA1
Thanks Diesel, That is exactly what I was looking for! I couldn’t see the 2 screw holes in the gear. I’ll go out and have another look. They must line up as shown in the picture when the injector pump timing marks are lined up. I should be able to make a puller or I’ll search the web. Crazy thing is..I’ve been searching for a picture like that in all of my Deere manuals and found nothing. Thanks again!
This is what I see when timing marks are aligned at injection pump and flywheel. No holes...should I forget the timing and just turn flywheel until I see the threaded holes in the gear?
What the pump #.. DB2-****
If that pump had a spring under that cover, then when you remove the injection pump, the shaft stays with the engine and the pump slides off of it.
That’s what I’m thinking.. I did a couple not to long ago and that’s how it went.. drive shaft stays in the engine.. But they change things so often I figured I’d look it up.
U said it “slid pretty far”.. If that’s the case, the dr shaft seal is probably caught up in a groove in the pilot tube.?? Pull it back while turning it back and forth.. wiggle it.. Oh, 1 more thing.. (Just being a smart azz) if u can’t figure out how to get it off, how the he!! do u expect to rebuild it.?? It’s a hellofa lot more complicated than those 3 nuts u took off… Seriously tho.. if u run into any questions that u can’t find the answers to on the rebuild, give me a shout.. U can reach me faster if u use my other email .. My screen name at aoldotcom Good luck
Per the picture in post #4 , the shaft is certainly drilled for the spring and thrust pin.
These are the numbers on the pump. The pump does have a spring loaded plunger sticking out of the front of the shaft. I was able to slide it an inch or two past the shaft seals and I saw that the shaft narrows way down but it gave massive resistance at that point so I slid it back on. As far as rebuilding goes, I resealed my 310A and that works fine. If you are willing to help me out, let me know what I need to do and I’ll send it to you for repairs? Let me know…thanks again for all the info!
When I get back to my place I’ll try removing by wiggling and turning again and let you all know how it works out
Ok, pump is out. Thanks for all the info. Any thoughts on who to send it to for rebuild?
@thepumpguysc is the go to guy for pumps. Reach out to him. No personal experience but many here have used him and he his active and offers good advice.
I’d love to tackle that for ya..
pumpguysc did one for me. It looked so dam good I thought he returned a new one ! Wherever you send it, drain every drop of oil and fuel out of it and double wrap in super heavy plastic bags that don't leak before you put in a box with packing material.
It doesn’t matter how many times I say it Timkerer.. I STILL get pumps FULL of fuel, wrapped in 1/2 sheet of bubble wrap, in a box 2-3x bigger than the pump.!! Boxes soaked thru, holes in the box.!! THEN, there’s the guys that LISTEN.!! What a pleasure it is to open up one of those shipments.!! It puts a smile on my ugly mug..
Mike does a great job, follow his directions when you get it back and you're good. I won't even mention that he takes bad checks.......... Joe H
Sent it to TPG and he is taking care of it. I think I will have it back next week already! It’ll probably take me longer to get it back in than it took him to rebuild...I’ll let you guys know how it works out...thanks again!
You’ll have it in plenty of time for the weekend..
Ok, only fair to provide an update after all the help you guys provided...special thanks to thepumpguysc! I received the pump back very promptly after tpg finished rebuilding it for me. I re-installed the pump last Friday night and finished putting everything back together Saturday. By Saturday noon we were all primed up and back in service. Grandson came over on Sunday and dug a half dozen holes to make sure everything was doing what it should. All buckled up and back in business! A few notes for those that find themselves in similar situations... 1. The reason this whole thing started was the darn flex ring in the governor assy inside the pump looks like it broke in 1/2 and rainy pieces got caught in the return line check valve. TPG sent the old plastic pieces back with the pump and installed the upgrade. 2. I was lead to believe by a few books and a few people that the pump needed to be removed WITH the shaft. This created some confusion and delays in the disassembly / removal procedure. Now, I don’t know about later models but MY 1986 310C does NOT have a captive shaft. I simply needed to slide the pump towards the rear of the engine far enough to tilt it out and away from the shaft which remained bolted to the gear in the front engine cover. 3. On reassembly I simply followed TPG’s instructions and left the throttle arm tied back (TPG ties it back before he ships it back to you) until I had the pump fully forward and bolted in place 4. When reinstalling, I was very careful not to allow the cup (umbrella) seal that faces the pump to get turned over. I took my time and carefully tucked it in place as I slid the pump over it. So far I don’t see any rise in my engine oil level so I think I got it correct. 5. It takes time and patience to get prime again by bleeding fuel lines. Once I saw smoke at the exhaust I new that old girl was about to come to life! Thanks again to everyone!