I have a 2004 314 cr with a cat engine in it. Was running/starting fine untill i tried to start it one day when 5 degrees out. cycled glow plugs it cranked over fine but didnt start in first 5 seconds of cranking so i stopped and recycled glow plugs again. went to start and nothing happened . checked the batteries and they tested fine. even tried jump starting it with another 24v system and nothing. I am assuming the rear bottom pan needs to be removed to access starter. Problem is I parked it backwards and now belly pan is above the front blade. Is it possible to remove pan and access the starter sitting this way or can the machine be turned somehow to make it easier?? Looking for some advice as to where to start at first. Thanks again.
You might wanna confirm power (both primary and crank) before tackling the starter.
Ok. To remove counter weight all I have to use would be my 259d loader. Would it lift it or do I need something bigger??
Thinking back, and tripping over the 314C fuse panel outside my door everyday, check your fuse panel for terminal corrosion. Systematically pull every fuse, one at a time, looking in the holes for deterioration of the terminals. Start with the 30 amp fuses and work your way down. I'm fairly certain mine was a 30 amp. The rain water drips in there and corrodes the terminals. When mine occured, I simply tilted out the panel and spliced in a inline holder. Until I had more corrosion issues.
See where I have the aftermarket fuse holder...that fuse hole had a rotted terminal and, the machine wouldn't start...314CLCR w/ PCA s/n...changed entire panel a year later as more terminals rotted...made rain shield for top/ back to prevent reoccurrence.
I removed all fuses and relays. all looked good. Even swapped relays around. When i crank it all i get is a clicking sound as if a relay or something is trying to engage. Waiting for cat dealer to get me a service manual. Getting buddy to bring crane truck to remove counter weight to access the starter. Got to get this thing going since its been kicking my butt..
Before you think I'm a nice, helpful, guy, just know that you've jinxed me. Dead batteries, and, after swapping, intermittent alternator output. 2 1/8" socket for four counterweight bolts. 16mm socket for two coolant recovery bottle bracket. M30x3.5 lifting eye bolts to rig 4 ton counterweight. As you can see, the starter has only two nuts and washers mounting it. And I'm looking for the ass that required two spacer washers on the bottom pivot bolts of the alternator.
Oh, and may I suggest replacing the fan belts whilst you're in there. Left is single for ac, and right two are alternator belt pair.
Thank you very much for the info. Changing belts great idea.
Replaced starter. good to go. Corroded fuse holder was all that was wrong with heater fan also. Thanks again heymccall.
Do you think you could access the starter from the access pan? I have the same problem. However I can access the bottom pan? Do you think I can access the starter from the bottom pan? Or is taking off the counter a must ?
How do you know for sure the starter is faulty. Have you done some testing and diagnostics or just going to change and see what happens. Just asking as we are not there. Simon C
Already had a mechanic replace all the relays, solenoids, and batteries are charged. No turnover when I move the key.
New relays, solenoids, batteries, does not guarantee there is a good control circuit to the starter, nor does it guarantee the battery cables are all good. I highly doubt all the relays, solenoids, were all bad. Did the mechanic have the schematics or was it just throw some parts at it to see if it starts. Not trying to make fun, just wondering if a new starter may not be solution. What exactly did he test to change all those parts. Simon C
See the circled white wire. That's the starter trigger wire. Either test under the black cover while someone holds the key in "crank", or test at the starter relay. You may be able to remove the cover bolt (at the arrow) to test the white wire at its terminal.