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3304 engine weight

Flhr62 ยท 2016-03-27 17:40

Spun a rod bearing in my 963 21z serial #. Tried polishing crank in the machine and replacing bearing. Did not work. Would like to know what the weight of the motor is so I can try to figure out how I am going to get it out?

Replies24
  1. #1Nige2016-03-27 17:47

    3800 pounds. If you have already removed anything from the engine then it would be less than that.

  2. #2Flhr622016-03-27 19:00

    Wow. How do people usually get them out in the field? May have many more questions before this is over. Thank you

  3. #3sealark372016-03-27 19:06

    In the old days, (1982ish), we swung the heavy engines and components between two autocranes on our service trucks, if the customer did not have hoes or loaders to help. Regards, Clark

  4. #4GregsHD2016-03-27 20:08

    Even a fully dressed 3304 doesn't weigh much more than 2000lbs.

  5. #5Jonas3022016-03-27 20:38

    a portable gantry crane and a ratcheting come along gets our 3306 out easy enough wouldn't be to handy in the field but could be done otherwise loader, hoe, lull, rent a crane you still might want a come along in line to to the fine lifting and a loader that doesn't settle a lot

  6. #6Cmark2016-03-27 21:48

    Nige is right, SIS says 3800lbs but I agree that does sound heavy. I've looked at at couple of other machines with a 3304 and they all seem to be around the 1600-1800lbs mark. My guess is that 3800lbs is either a typo or it may be the weight of the engine and tranny combined. By the way, you should consider pulling the engine and tranny together. The engine is not particularly easy to get out and in by itsself. There's very little give in the tranny mounts to allow for alignment and if you loosen them off, the tranny tips over and you have to prat around with jacks underneath to get it in the right position.

  7. #7Nige2016-03-28 04:22

    I took the weight straight from SIS without thinking too much about it, the engines I usually work with run from around 14,000 pounds upwards not 4,000. The procedure does say to separate the engine from the transmission while removing the engine so I can only assume as Cmark says that the 3800 pounds is a typo and it should in fact read 1800. To remove the engine and transmission together will be a weight of approximately 3500 pounds as near as I can tell.

  8. #8Flhr622016-03-28 09:58

    That's why I asked. Manual says over 3000, internet says around 1500.

  9. #9CaptainAnalyzer2016-03-28 11:25

    I have more pictures on my laptop, but this 3304 spun two rod bearings and seized when an operator ran it very low on oil and was operating on a 45* angle. We disconnected engine from transmission and I cannot see the engine weighing more than 1500lbs.

  10. #10GregsHD2016-03-28 11:49

    I was going to say that weight sounded about right with the trans attached. These old 963's are a treat to work on compared to newer models, just be thank full of that!! If you're still worried about weight strip the head and accessories off the old engine before picking it out.

  11. #11CaptainAnalyzer2016-03-28 15:19

    When the cab flips forward one has a remarkable amount of room to work around the engine.

  12. #12Flhr622016-03-28 15:21

    Thanks for the pictures Captian. Although I think it makes me dread it even more. Wish mine was on flat concrete like that. I'm kind of on the side of a hill angling down. Seems like the manual said to roll the cab all the way over. Looks like you just jacked it up as far as it would go.

  13. #13old-iron-habit2016-03-28 15:40

    Any way you can get another machine to pull it to a better place or better yet load it out. Its hard to do a quality job working in tough conditions. A little more spent up front might be cheap in the long run. Sounds like you are on the second go round already. Working hoisting equipment on a side hill is not the best usually either.

  14. #14Flhr622016-03-28 16:17

    Thinking about starting it and moving it. Only need to go about 30 yards to get to flat and level. Kind of scares me though, any opinions on that? Have a 11000 lb 75 hp farm tractor. If I release the brakes would that be able to get it moving?

  15. #15GregsHD2016-03-28 23:13

    I would say since you installed a new rod bearing and if you have decent oil pressure it should limp that last 30 yards, keep the rpm down and don't put much load the engine. That size tractor should be able to pull if it will roll free. Since you're on a hill side I wouldn't recommend pulling the sun gears, unless you had an equal or bigger machine and good strong chains!

  16. #16CaptainAnalyzer2016-03-29 09:10

    I agree with GregsHD, don't pull the sun gears unless you're on level ground. A motto I like telling people is; "don't end up on YouTube". I wish I still had the picture of when I arrived to the scene the machine was stuck in. Right side track was buried, engine seized, with a full bucket of mud... ._.

  17. #17CaptainAnalyzer2016-03-29 09:12

    Had to pull a PC-150 out of a pit and send it there to wrangle the b*****d.

  18. #18Mobiltech2016-03-29 09:58

    I just replaced a 3304 in a 950 loader that had a rod out the side of the block. Used blocks are hard to find in the 3304 size. The engine only weighs about 1500 pounds. Takes about 2.5 hours to pull one out of a 950 in the field. 963 would be a little harder.

  19. #19Flhr622016-03-29 14:35

    Thanks for all of the information. More questions soon to follow I'm sure. Think I will mow next week so I'll give you guys a couple of weeks off. The loader is on our farm over in Alabama. Only get over there about once a week so this may be kind of a slow process.

  20. #20Flhr622016-03-29 14:38

    Would I come out better buying a reman, or rebuilding what I have?

  21. #21kshansen2016-03-29 15:14

    That's a hard one to answer, a lot depends on what other damage there is other than the crank and rod. Rod probably needs replacement or possibly resizing the big end. With any luck the crank can be polished or reground one size under. Not knowing the condition of things like cam, head, pistons and liners leaves a lot to the imagination. Also the intended use for the machine once it is back online. Makes a big difference if it is going to be worked 40-50 hours a week year round or load two trucks a week cleaning up around the farm. With a failed bearing I would lean towards doing a very through job of cleaning anything that sees oil, oil galleys, pump and filter housings. Cooler I would play it safe and just replace with new or reman. One good thing is that is a very basic engine, only thing that can be a little tricky I have heard is the timing of the balancers, but there are people here who can explain that job easy. I've done several 3306 engines but they don't use the balance shafts. Guess it all comes down to how soon you need it back to work and how much time you want to invest. If it was mine and I only wanted to use it a few hours a week I would be looking at either Cat Classic or other after market parts. There are good quality parts at very reasonable prices available for these engines.

  22. #22Nige2016-03-29 15:30

    A damaged block would lose the Core Deposit for the Reman option, so the cost would be the same as buying new. Reman Price + Core Deposit = New Price..... Check out this thread - the owner had his block refurbished by a machine shop. Maybe yours is suitable for a similar process. Look at the last couple of pages HeavyEquipmentForums

  23. #23tctractors2016-03-30 15:17

    The 3304 with turbo fitted clocks in at 1990 lbs, no turbo knock off around 40 lbs, so the lift kit needs to be able to cope with 1 U.S. Ton on the 963 early you can pull the front bare and slide stuff about. tctractors p.s I know its already been said on the weight thing, I am just adding a bit of back up.

  24. #24kshansen2016-03-30 19:47

    Maybe I missed it but do not recall the OP,flhr62, mention a problem with the block. Was thinking it had a spun rod bearing. But agree if you have a good machine shop available to you it's amazing what can be fixed. I recall having an engine, old Waukasha gas job, that spun a main bearing. Local shop, that unfortunately no longer exists, bored the bad main out about 1/8 inch over sized then made an insert that looked like a bearing insert out of some steel tubing, or maybe it was cast iron, this was locked in place with a couple brass dowels. Then after shaving the main caps a little they were put back on and crank bores were line bored to standard. Ground crank .010 or .020 undersize and engine was reassembled and was good to go.