Background: I recently traded a forklift for a 530 ck backhoe that has a split synchro in the shuttle gearbox. I discovered later that it also has a torque converter. I wasn't (still am not, but I'm learning) familiar with the torque converter option. I pulled the cover for the shuttle gearbox and coaxed the synchro together to try and move the machine to a place where I could disconnect the backhoe in preparation of splitting it. The clutch pressure gauge showed low pressure all the time, but after adding fluid, it is in the green zone with the clutch pedal released. It drops when the pedal is depressed. The Problem: When I depress the clutch pedal (and wait a few seconds) I still can't engage any gears in the transmission (grinds like a manual trans car without the clutch depressed). From the manual on the case-o-matic, it appears that hydraulic pressure is necessary to keep the multiple clutch disks engaged, so it doesn't make sense to me that the torque converter "clutch" doesn't disengage since I see the pressure drop on the gauge. Does anybody have any suggestions what could be going on?
Buy you a I&T shop manual it has a trouble shooting on these T/C on 530 i got a manual for one and its help me more than once over the years
Well, I'm gonna jump in here and show my ignorance. My 580CK also grinds the gears when I put the manual transmission in gear. I can't tell you if this happens all the time, that is, if the fluid is warmed up or cold. But, now on to my ignorance: I am not familiar with the term "case-o-matic." Also, I think that the 580Ck had two different shuttle transmissions and I'm not always sure which one everyone is talking about on these posts. So, there it is, my ignorance laid out there for all to see. But, I am curious if the fluid temp. makes any difference in the behavior of your 580CK. .02 packratc
Well, maybe I can recover some of my dignity or show even more ignorance. From what I gather the COM is like the old fluid drive in 40's and 50's Chrysler products. I have one sitting out here in a 49 Dodge. Am I right there? As kids we used to call them "clunk-o-matics" as they would make that clunking sound when they shifted. Please excuse me from getting in on your COM thread. But, I still wonder if fluid temp. makes any difference. Mea Culpa, packratc
Packratc, I think you are correct that the COM is a fluid drive manual clutch; my dad used to call them manual automatics or something like that. The COM uses a torque converter with two clutches in place of the regular clutch. One of the clutches is a lockup like in the torque converter of modern automatics. Apparently the other allows complete disengagement of the torque converter from the rest of the drivetrain, just like a standard clutch would do. The part that confuses me is that it appears that the clutch that completely disengages the t/c (also referred to as the multiple disk clutch, since it has mulitple cluch / friction disks like a motorcycle clutch) uses fluid pressure instead of springs in a pressure plate to hold the disks together and prevent slippage. Because of that, it seems to me that when the pressure is released it should allow slippage. I think the fluid temp would probably allow the clutch to slip if the pump was marginal, but I don't think it could cause the clutch to stay engaged.
Thanks bmorey, for you reply. I'm just trying to learn all about these high-dollar toys. I've read about the power shuttle, the rockford, the twin disc, the hydrostatic drive, the mechanical shuttle, the dual range transmission, and the traction clutch. I still don 't know squat. Is the COM the dual range transmission? It's not important that I know all this except that I like to know what folks are talking about when I read their posts. My 580 CK just has the old power shuttle and I think that I'm glad that it does. Incidently, I bought one of those cheap discs on-line that has pretty pictures of all these things and it's been worth every penny. Thankd\s, packratc
New to the forum to find info on same problem. Mines a 530ck with same ( i think) hydraulic clutch and torque converter/direct drive switch. Mine has a box with hydraulic pistons that work the clutch and tc/dd. Took apart this box and found a broken spring. Replaced with similar but no fix. Ordered shop manual from ebay. I'll keep up on your thread and reply if I find anything. Definitely trying to keep from splittting this thing.
I also ordered a manual that came pdf format so I could download it. It has good info for sure. I started thinking about the Chrysler fluid drive system, and realized that by all accounts you had to back off the throttle to shift. That hadn't occurred to me, so I tried idling the engine and engaging the clutch and I was able to shift into gear, and the tractor moved when I let out the clutch pedal. I'm still going to have to split mine to replace the synchro, but at least that is an obvious mechanical problem that I can see. It gives me some reassurance that it will probably work after I fix that problem, and hopefully won't end up splitting the tractor twice.