So, I gathered some parts because the right side loader arm pivot point has a lot of play in it. Probably from hours of the Hydra-level cylinder putting pressure on it? I disassembled it and found the loader frame was egged out pretty bad. When I slid the pin into the opening it had a little over an 1/8th of an inch around the top and sides and about a quarter of an inch on the bottom. During operation the pin moves up and down about an inch. The left side had about an 1/8" all the way around and really doesn't seem to have a lot of play while operating. I purchased everything new that I thought I might need. The draw bar, washers, nuts, 4 bushings for the loader arm, and new pins. None of this will fix the real problem though, the egged out frame. I wrongly assumed there might be a bushing in there, but it doesn't appear that way. My questions are: How much play should these parts have when assembled? What is the best fix for this? Weld and ream? Is it worth fixing? What is the torque spec for the draw bar? Just follow spec for bolt diameter? And a semi-related question; What is the lifting capacity of a 73 580 B CK? I've tried searching around the net but have come up empty handed. Thanks for your help! Lawrence
Okney, I've never had one of these apart, but seen many that were getting pretty sloppy. There is a piston guide inside the leveling cylinder that seems to swell with age and gives that cylinder a very jerky action. Yes no doubt the leveling cylinder contributes a bit to the wear. I've attached a couple of pics of a 580CK loader off CNH. It appears to me that #9, is the actual pin(part#D52278) and the loader arm bushing is #2 (D30935). If so then the hollow pins must slide into a sleeve welded in the loader frame, same as the pin mounts below for the cylinder ends. Not one of Case's better ideas. Later Case redesigned this with a long straight through solid pin, that is bushed in the frame too I believe. Originally these 2 pins were possibly a tight fit in the frame. My 580BCK service manual does not show this area in detail. I'm guessing that the nuts on the tie rod need not be torqued, but rather snugged. The tube can be removed by spreading the frames apart. The frames are both oil reservoirs and makes welding a replacement sleeve in more complicated. You would have to have a sleeve(s) made up by a local machine shop, or see if it is available from Case(D52277-boss). An alternative is to have the sleeve bored and a liner installed, or weld the bore and bore it. Many backyard mechanics slide shims in or will weld in the bore, and use a bull nose stone on a grinder, to get a 'better' fit. Maybe others like Ando will have ideas too. Phil