Anyway, Recently I finally address the out rigger cylinders. I had them repack and repaired. The rods were bent so the machine shop had to make me new rods. Got hem home and installed on the tractor. I boltsed the lines and cylinders back up and started the old beast. It fired up like puring perfect. Let it run a for about 20 minutes and tried my outriggers. Tractor still really low on Hydro fuild so I just liffted them off the ground so I could more the tractor. Once I got the tractor moved I tried to operate the outriggers. and the backhoe. The motor cut off. I started it again and then it cut off. Since then I have changed the both fuel filters the primary and secondary. There was a lot of crude in both of these filters. Replaced them and cleaned the canister holder. With starting fluid the tractor fires right up and then cuts right off. Like it's not getting fire/fuel. I read there are no Glow plugs on the 580B. Can't seem to figure out why it starts and then immediately cuts right off < 10--20 seconds. I open the valve on the upper fuel filter and diesel comes out. At this point I now have 9K in this thing. Sort of acts like a short or somthing. The wiring is terrible on this thing but it's run in the pass with that wiring. lost 580B owner. Really getting depressed on this tractor. Thanks Del
Well, I can narrow it down some for you, it's almost certainly not electrical. I can't remember for sure, but if a B has an engine stop cable, which I think it does, there is NO WAY it can be electrical. If a B shuts off with the switch,(I don't think so), then the only electrical component that keeps it running is the fuel shut off solenoid on the injector pump. IF it has one of these you can run a wire straight from the battery to test it, and it should click when power is applied. If it shuts off by pulling a cable, ignore all of the above, there is absolutely nothing electrical that can stop it. This is almost certainly a fuel issue, either a lack of fuel to the pump, or the return fuel can't get out of the pump. A lot of times when it starts and stops, it could be a return issue. Pull the return line off the pump and see if it runs, and if fuel pours out. Then, blow backwards through the fuel line into the tank, to see if it is clogged. A lot of old tractors have a needle valve in the bottom of the tank, I usually end up replacing them with a ball valve as I find them to be the most likely to clog place. After you do this let us know what you find, I'm sure we can walk you through this.
If it has the old Stanadyne injection pump then you are due for a rebuild. Roosa Master is another name for this style pump and it is common to Deere, Allis, Case older equipment among others. There is a fitting in the top cover of the injector pump, that fitting has a return hose to the fuel return rail off the nozzles, or directly to tank, take this fitting out and see if there is a clogged mess inside the check ball inside the fitting. If there is, take a paper clip, a scratch awl, a small pointed any kind of tool a nd get it clear enough to allow the ball to lift and reseat then re-install it, may take a little cranking but should start. This is a TEMPORARY fix, there is a fibrous coupler inside the pump that comes apart with age, the remnants of the coupler are what block the relief fitting, the excess head pressure is what shuts off the fuel. A Stanadyne/Roosa Master rebuild at a reputable shop will run around $600, to set the pump look at your manuals, should give guidelines on remove/re-install and how to not roll the shaft seals to keep oil in oil and fuel in fuel with neither mixing together.
DMiller is correct.. its important to find out WHAT PUMP you have. Theres a nameplate on the injection pump. Its way easier to just remove the fitting on top of the pump and run it..just to see if that's your problem. Its going to be messy with the return fuel running out onto the ground but if you put a catch pan under it, it will be fine.. but then again, we don't know if its a Roosa Master or CAV pump.. The reason it starts and then shuts off is.. housing pressure is greater the inlet pressure.. if you cant get fuel out of the pump[clogged return line/fitting] you cant get fuel in the pump.. hope this helps.
Thanks, I pulled the fuel line going from the second filter to the fuel pump, when I turn the valve on at tank flows through the filters and through this line leading into the pump. I then took off the output line and pulled it once the first line was re-installed. I get a little fuel leaking out at this point. I turned the tractor over and a get a bit more fuel but not enough to run the tractor. The line coming out towards the front on top of the fuel pump appears to be the return fuel as it routes back to fuel tank. Just a spit or so but not a flow like I thought. I only remove the line routing from the top of the fuel pump to the fuel rail which runs back to the tank. I'll remove fitting tomorrow and try again. I'll clean it tomorrow and locate the tag on pump as well.
Hey guys well appears to be a Roosa M. M for the master. See post below. I could not find the delete key on this post
Hey guys well appears to be a Roosa M. M for the master. I've been watching some tear downs of this style fuel pump on youtube but I'm just not comfortable with a rebuild of this pump. Today I removed the inlet fuel adapter connector looking for that filter screen. I did not see it or I failed to remove the next nut to get to it. I've read some about a check valve but again either I did not dig in far enough or I failed to see what I was looking at. I've since watch more detailed breakdown video's on youtube of Stanadyne fuel pump an I plan to take another look at it this week if I can after the hand surgery I'm having tomorrow. I might have to wait a few weeks. Anyways, I removed the outlet adapter fuel fitting and blew air through the line which came out the gas cap. I did not try the fuel lines yet but plan to tackle that later. Thinking it's the pump. To remove it do I just remove the three bolts on the backside? Http:\\ www.kbtdel.com\images\580B\IMG_0635.jpg Http:\\ www.kbtdel.com\images\580B\IMG_0636.jpg Http:\\ www.kbtdel.com\images\580B\IMG_0637.jpg
Do yourself a BIG FAVOR and time the pump FIRST .. BEFORE you remove it.. Shut off the fuel.. Remove the side cover..2 screws,, rotate the engine over, BY HAND.. until the 2 lines line up in the window.. THEN.. remove the 3 bolts/nuts and pull back on the pump.. Seeing you didn't provide any pump #'s.. its hard to say weather the drive shaft will stay in the engine or not.. EITHER WAY.. line up the lines..
Thanks, Do the links above indicate pump numbers?
Yes,.. dbgfcc431-43aj
Just pulled up the parts list for the 43AJ.. the drive shaft will stay in the engine.. just time it and pull back.. BTW.. don't bend the injection lines.. its easier to loosen them at the injectors to get them out of the way.. good luck.
Thanks, I'm having surgery today on my right hand, torn ligament between my right thumb and hand. Right now I can use it about 75% but hoping for 100% once I heal up. Pending how that goes maybe I can pull the pump in a week or so.