Had a problem with sudden engine rpm loss. Would run great then would fail to come off idle until it stalled, then would fire up and run good for a while, then same thing. Decided to overhaul engine, it had had a miss, smoked quite a bit and I was just wanting it in better shape. Installed new sleeves and bearings and got it all together, thinking I might still have to do the pump. And sure enough runs great, fires right up then decides it doesn't want you to accelerate anymore. Took the top of the pump off (should have done this a long time ago) and it had lots of rubber pieces in there. I know there is a problem with seals going bad on these pumps was wondering if they are pretty easy to change and mostly if you have to remove the pump to change them...I have real good access to the pump and am quite nimble, finger-wise. If the pump has to be removed can someone give me the procedure for making sure the timing is correct, what and where to mark, how to set timing? mike
removing the pump To remove the pump, scribe a line or make a mark at the pump housing to front cover at it's mounting flange. Clean engine injector area and pump area good to keep dirt and dust to a min. Shut the fuel off and remove the fuel lines and filter base, unscrew the injector lines at the injectors, I pull the exhaust manifold off and leave the injector lines hooked at the pump. Remove the window plate (two screws) plate and gasket from the side of the pump, Turn the engine by hand and line up the two lines in the window, and reinstall the window cover, remove the return fuel line at the pump, throttle, stop cable/wire. I tie the throttle lever back with a tie strap, needed more after a rebuild but it's a good practice to do. Remove the three nuts and washers that hold the pump to the front housing. Slide the pump straight back off the shaft. Once off you will see the two black butterfly seals on the shaft that have to be replaced and a look at the end of the shaft you will see a dot. Looking into the pump you will see the drive and a dot, they have to match up when you reinstall along with the line you scribed. I do not time most roosa master pumps to engine most of the time, scribe the line, and slip it off and look at the dots. There is a updated part for those pumps and it's well worth the few dollars to have a good pump shop install it with your rebuild. The pumpguy can help you, if he is on line. Care must be taken on the reinstall of the two shaft seals, I have a slide tube to install the seals and a seal compressor tool to assist when sliding the pump over them. The tube inside that the seals seat needs to be replaced if heavy wear groves or it may fill the engine with raw fuel, this can also happen if you nick or roll a seal on install. The pump timing is at 8* BTDC, pump part # A148069 with a convertor and A51631 with a clutch. More if needed and should have other members chime in also.
EXCELLENT INSTRUCTIONS SHEEP..!!! Personally I don't pull the manifold, just "maneuver" the lines out of the way.. BUT your way makes for easier installation.. The updated part your reffering to is an EID weight retainer.. P# 29111 and WELL WORTH THE MONEY.. The rebuild shop will most likely soak your hsg. in acid or sandblast it.. MAKE SURE to make your mark deep enough to see when it gets returned.. Most important thing is to line-up the lines in the window BEFORE REMOVING THE PUMP.. Good luck.. TPG
Thanks sheepfoot...sounds like it's pretty straight forward, glad I do not have to pull off the front timing gear. Pulling the exhaust is a 5 minute job that seems worth the time spent. Didn't quite understand the "pump part # A148069 with a convertor and A51631 with a clutch" is that for the seal kits? I'll keep you updated.
Thanks thepumpguy...and I am assuming that the line-up of the lines in the window is a must before install.
mike4237, The C backhoes used to different fuel pumps from the factory depending on if it had a mech shuttle shift (unit with a clutch) or a power shuttle (converter driven) shuttle F/R. The difference was about 50 hp. at 2100 rpm, and 2050 rpm at the rated speed on a clutch unit while the converter unit had 55 hp. at 2100 rpm and 2100 rpm rated speed. Those numbers are the two different pumps, 5 hp. and 50 rpm for the clutch unit.
Well sheepfoot I guess I have a converter driven...no clutch pedal, just stop unit, shift and go. Do have a question before I disassembly more...is this correct? Should that shaft be coming out of the pump? If so I will also have to pull the fuel filter housing, (not a big deal, just making sure)
Mike ... Yes .. That is the shaft with the two seals sheepfoot described. The seals keeps the engine oil and fuel separate. Either one fails or is installed poorly, and you'll have fuel in your oil or oil in your fuel. You did open the little window on the side of the pump to line up the two lines ? If not ... put the pump back into place and do it...
Thanks hosspuller...pump is out and on the bench. And yes I aligned the marks first.