Bought it last year. Did some work to it. Put 100 hours on it replacing the drain tile around our house. Started it half a dozen times over the winter. No problems, other than 2 more cylinders leaking and king pins are still shot. I've put maybe 10 hours on it so far this summer, always check fluids before using, and often after too. Last week I checked everything, all good, and used it to load some dirt into the truck, ran for about 45 minutes. After I parked it and got out, I noticed an oil trail the last 50 feet into where I parked it. Looked it over and checked the oil, and the dipstick was full. It was thin and clean (I did just change the oil again this spring). Since the only choices are Fuel and Antifreeze, I assume the pump was leaking fuel into the crankcase. I'll pull the plug to check for water when I get a chance. Injectors were new when I bought it last year. Was this a common problem for the 580c engine, I believe it is the 207 if I remember correctly? I don't remember any other coolers or anything that could pass hydraulic oil or transmission oil to the engine. Would the shaft seals mentioned in the manual be the problem, or would this require a pump teardown? I've taken apart a few pumps, but never tried putting any back together. Is a pump rebuild something worth trying myself? I was ASE Master Certified for Med/Heavy Trucks, but not equipment and we always farmed out our pump rebuilds. I've rebuilt many components, starters, alternators, transmissions, axles, engines, cylinders, pumps, turbos, etc. so I'm the complexity isn't a problem. However, I don't have any special tools that might be needed, or any special test equipment, which is the same reason I haven't rebuilt any auto trannys since I quit working on trucks full time. What do you think? I suppose I could take it off and take it in to get tested. I bought a skid steer this spring, and the plan was to sell the backhoe this fall after I was done with it, but I can't sell a backhoe producing oil.
Try to see which you have in there first, water or diesel, then go from there, no point in pulling the pump before knowing that. No way for the Hydraulic oil, Transaxle oil or Power shuttle oil to get into the engine, without something really, really wrong going on. The power steering pump fluid could get in there, but the front of the thing would have to be pretty much ruined for that fluid to get in there and I'm sure you'd have steering issues long before it got to that point, so I'm just covering that one for the sake of completeness. Both water or (hopefully not and) diesel could be causing the engine oil to be high, and both are kind of common issues. The engine is a 207 yes, and it's a wet sleeve type, so those rubber o-rings can fail and you'll get coolant in there. That's what was wrong with mine when I bought her, and the oil also looked pristine in it, so I had to tear it all down as whoever had it before wasn't into the preventative maintenance thing, and I needed to see what I had gotten myself into anyway as well as look for any future issues. Same deal with the pump's butterfly seals, if the one closest to the pump goes bad then it just dumps diesel in there. If there was a good bit of diesel in there you should be able to smell that. If you do remove the pump, feel inside the end of it where the seals ride and if you feel a groove that's at least one thing that will need done to it as ti will just make reinstalling it over new seals a possible new seal killer.
Do you have a transfer pump on this engine? That's the first thing to check, loosen the nuts but leave the lines tight, pry it away from the block and use the priming lever to pump fuel and see if it leaks.
there is no mechanical pumps on these motors. Its most likely diesel leaking from the shaft seals on the injection pump. Antifreeze would make the oil milky color
Yup, no lift pump, its gravity fed.. The brass pilot tube in the front of the inj. pump has gotten grooved.. IT IS replaceable & done at the time of rebuild.. Only 2 things cause it> dirty fuel or dirty engine oil. The tube is epoxy'd in.. IF your JUST going to replace the pilot tube{NOT recommended} you'll have to measure the protrusion, heat the outside of the housing & pull it out.. Epoxy the new one, in the grooves on the new PT & press in, to the dimension previously recorded & let sit for 24hrs. The P# for the PT is > 16320.. The special 2 parts epoxy costs 62.00 a set.. OR just pull it once & get it rebuilt.. "WE" just happen, "to know a guy"..
PGSC rebuilt mine. he did a very good job on it and for a great price . Turnaround great as well. Thank you once again buddy. Maybe youll rebuild this one in your new shop
Sorry I went camping, got home last night. Finally got a chance to look at it. It is confirmed to be full of diesel. I've only had it a little while, but done a lot to it. Repacked most of the cylinders, replaced water pump, thermostat, belt, many other seals. I cleaned the fuel tank and radiator really well. Flushed the oil, twice. Cleaned it all up. Pulled the pump off and am going to take it in to a local shop to be tested tomorrow. Unless you have a better idea? Let me know how much a rebuild of this pump usually costs.
Depending on the area & problem, a rebuild will cost average 650.00.. if you get it done thru this forum, around 400.00 + shipping.
Give it to pumpguy thats my advise
X2 on that advice. Pumpguy will go through the entire pump. He did mine and it looked factory new when I got it back.
X2X2on that advice from this point in space.... Did me right on mine, and all the "free" pump advice/info you would need. He is The Man!..... or...The Guy!!
Thanks guys.. its nice to be appreciated..
Finally got the pump back on after TPG's rebuild. It ran great. Looking forward to getting my digging done.
PG does great work ...