Hi to all. I have a Case 580D with extend-a-hoe. I have had it for 3 years and probably put 100 hours on it digging and pushing trees. Generally, it runs pretty good, but there seems to be a spot in about mid range rpm's where it runs a bit rough. I don't know much at all about working on the machine, but I have a traveling mechanic who is a great tractor man. Unfortunately, he lives 90 miles away, so when he comes down to work, I try not to distract him from working. He has come down five or so times to fix various things. However, we have discussed the engine running rough only briefly. I know he is on this forum a lot, but do not know his user name. Anyway, I'd like to see about smoothing out the engine a little, but would like to learn some possibilities as to what is causing the problem. So, I'd like to ask you all what are some of the possible causes of my engine running rough. I need to add that the problem is not really affecting the tractor's ability to drive and dig. Any help would be appreciated. Last time he was here, my mechanic checked all the filters. They were okay. jfe
Take a good look at the engine mounts. The rubber thickness should be almost the thickness of your finger between the engine & chassis frame.
Ruff like in missing or ruff like in shaking all the case backhoes I've had run ruff like in shaking until 1,000 rpm or more.
Rough as in missing.
The absolutely first thing is as alrman stated, mounts are suspect, oftimes the engine will move far enough to allow the muffler to hit the hole in the hood, if you watch you can probably see the engine walk. A lot of times the rubbers are completely deteriorated and the mount sits on the frame. On the older machines using the Stanadyne pump if the pump picks up internal wear the advance mechanism which works by pump charge pressure will quit working and the advance will quit, that gives a distinct roughness at high RPM. Usually that is a high RPM problem.
Mel is exactly right.. Runs good at idle and misses at mid to full.. With the engine off.. loosen the mounting bolts that hold the injection pump on.. Twist the pump about a "dimes width" in the OPPISITE direction of pump rotation.. BEST THING to do is MARK the original location of the pump.. that way you know where you started from incase it didn't work..
Gentlemen, thanks for the information. I will pass this along to my mechanic and hopefully we can get the engine problem resolved. jfe
Joe, Funny to have found you now. As melben stated and I think we had discussed the last or previous time I was down, I believe it to be internal to the pump. It starts to well to be off much. My thought is the governor dampener ring may be failing. I have done the pump static timing adjustment many times (while running) which is the same as tuning a gas burner distributor. It will load down at either extreme of the adjustment and I try to find a sweet spot in the middle where it starts well and doesn't sound labored while running. A big pair of arc joint pliers works best for doing this. If we need to, I can take it to my injector shop in Sulphur Springs. Wes
Hi Wesley. Glad you saw the post. I'd been intending to text you to take a look at it, but just been too busy. You may have to come down here, as the tractor won't turn over. Sounds like a loose connection somewhere, maybe. It just clicks when the ignition key is turned to start. So far, I have cleaned the battery terminals, but problem persists. Battery test shows 12.7 volts. I ran it a couple of hours the other day and parked it. When I tried to start it a few days later, it just made clicking noise. jfe
Thank you very much Melben, Billrog, thepumpguysc, and alrman, for taking the time to help me. Wrwtexan is the mechanic I have been using for a couple of years now. Thanks to him as well. Next time he comes down, maybe we can get the miss out of the engine. Again...thanks to all of you. jfe
If your ground strap to the battery is attached to the frame on the other end, then get a long battery cable made up and attach the negative ground end to the bolt that holds the starter on. You will be surprised at how much faster the engine turns over to start. This solved all of the starting/charging issues with my 580 C.
Thanks, tortie. I'll get that done, and hopefully that will cure the starting problem. jfe