This spring I purchased a Case 580D to use for numerous improvements and maintenance work around my property. The hope was to "school" myself in its operation, get a few smaller projects done while slowly making repairs to a machine that hasn't seen a lot of TLC. I've managed to lay my hands on a workshop manual, owners manual, and a detailed parts manual as well. Thought that before I started asking questions I'd give the specs I've been able to locate on the machine. Based on the 9058315 serial number I believe its a 1981 Vintage 2 wheel drive with a fully enclosed cab. Engine model number is 207D 4318435 The backhoe is a model 35A 5450910 Haven't been able to locate and or read any other identifying numbers though I did measure the loader bucket and it's about 80 inches wide. I've done a lot of small repairs , brakes, starter, battery and am slowly working on getting the instrument panel and associated gauges and indicator lights functioning but not everything is fixed yet so I've been really cautious about fluid, oil, levels as I don't have the benefit of the lights to help me identify a problem. Having an issue with coolant loss and I use the term loss as opposed to leaking as the radiator, hoses etc. are all good. Off and on I've had to keep adding fluid so I started paying a bit more attention. Yesterday I ran the machine moving material for about 2 hours, prior to starting up coolant levels right up to the top. Prior to starting up today it was low by 1/2 gallon, filled up with 50/50 and started her up moved material for about an hour then set machine up to dig some more fill material. Before I started digging with the hoe I looked everything over and noticed I had a slight drip of coolant coming from the radiator overflow tube ( about a drop every 5 seconds) as well as either smoke or some kind of vapor coming from the valve cover breather tube. ( a pretty significant amount in that it was a steady stream of vapor or smoke) I got back on the machine and dug for about 5 minutes than hopped back off to check things out regarding the drip of coolant and the breather tube smoke. I noticed that there was a big pool of coolant as well as a lot of "fluid" of some sort on the ground too so I shut her down. In the heat of the moment I just briefly looked to see if coolant or fluid was "spraying" out somewhere but couldn't see anything. I haven't checked fluid levels on anything yet but spent some time looking through the shop manual as well as on the forum trying to find some troubleshooting info as to what the problem is So hopefully someone out there might have some thoughts as to the best place to start looking. The workshop manual is great on replacing of parts and pieces but in my opinion lacking in the troubleshooting aspect of things. I'm not an automotive/diesel mechanic but have a pretty fair skill set and aptitude. Thanks for any help Russ
Take a close look at the radiator cap rubber seal and the surface of the radiator the rubber seals against. The rad cap is supposed to maintain a seal until the overheated water develops enough pressure to compress the spring and vent the steam out the overflow hose. So you must have some issue with the cap not sealing.
It sounds like there is no overflow reservoir, like you'd have on a car or newer setup. With no overflow reservoir the radiator is NOT supposed to be full, one inch below the bottom of the neck is the typical "full" level. The top of the radiator is the only expansion space in this case. If you take the cap off it and start it up cold, there should be no movement visible in the fluid. If it's bubbling, that's bad news. Vapor out of the breather tube is no big deal, yet. Unless it smells sweet, or there is brown gunky foam at the top of the dipstick, or the inside the valve cover, oil cap etc.
Listen, I'm brand new here on the forum and know nothing so far about heavy equipment. So my thoughts are probably worth zilch. I have a bit of experience with car engines, though. If you're losing coolant but not leaking it, and you have a mysterious vapor coming from a crankcase breather, is it possible you're leaking fluid internally, either through a cracked block/head, or head gasket? The coolant is getting inside the lubricated part of the engine? The vapor from the breather- could it be steam from boiling off coolant inside the engine? Is your oil milky-looking at all? Sorry if this is totally off base. It's just the first thing that came to mind. David
So I'm going to change the oil to look for any possible head or gasket issues, no obvious signs show up on the dipstick and the oil level is good. I checked out the radiator cap as well as the surface on the top of the radiator it seals against and that surface looks okay but the caps rubber seal is pretty chewed up El Hombre so I'm going to replace it seeming as it's a pretty inexpensive starting point. Maybe you could take a look at the pictures I took of it, it seems like it would be fairly easy for fluid to find its way past the seal and out the overflow tube but I don't have a point of reference as top how far down the sides the rubber is supposed to go. Thanks for the input Delmer regarding proper fluid level as after digging through the manuals the full "cold" level is supposed to be 2 inches from the top of the opening. Any ideas why this system doesn't utilize an overflow reservoir? I wonder if under normal operating conditions, proper glycol ratios, fluid levels, thermostat and water pump functioning the system isn't supposed to push fluid out of the overflow? Seems like the radiator is pretty good size and if that 2inch expansion space might be adequate?? So anyway I'm going to keep a close eye on things and get the new cap and cross my fingers. Thanks Russ
That sealing surface looks fine, that cap could work fine for another couple decades. They didn't have an overflow because they don't need one with a big top tank for expansion. Keep it simple. So had you filled it right up to the top before? I wouldn't bother with an oil change unless you're close to needing it anyway. The moisture will condense on the dipstick because it sticks out and is colder than the rest of the engine. You'll get chocolate foam there, or in the valve cover.
The only way coolant can come out of the overflow tube is through the cap. Replace it, but like Delmer says, don't fill it clear to the top.
Consdesation out of the blow by tube (valve cover) is generally a bad sign. New cap is a reasonable place to start. Would probably fit a coolant temp guage even if only temporary to monitor what's going on. Overheating a 207 will cook the liner O rings and then they leak coolant into the crankcase. Not a death nill but more work to repair.
Check out this stuff, it's available at Napa etc, it can detect exhaust leaks in your rad that are coming from broken head gaskets etc.If it hits for a "positive" you can try some stuff called "Blue devil", it works. https://www.google.ca/search?q=napa...e7G2s6ZyAIVUQeSCh3KWwC6#imgrc=rbcjD4kd9M_yaM: That rad cap "seal" doesn't look bad to me, unless it's not releasing pressure as it should, in that case you would see your rad hoses ready to burst open.
Before you start it in the morning loosen the drain plug on the oil pan till there is only a thread holding, if you have any antifreeze in the pan it will drain off first as it settles to the bottom. If antifreeze comes out at all quit running it till the problem is fixed as Ethylene Glycol will tear up your rod and main bearings and ruin your crankshaft.
I will hold off on the oil change as its not due for another 30 hours and the dipstick shows no signs of anything but "normal" oil color. Yes I did fill it right up to the top so I'm guessing that would account for some coolant to come out the overflow until enough space is created for expansion. I've been paying close attention to the coolant level after the last time I filled it and left the inch or so for expansion and it seems to be maintaining at that level and no overheating!! Is the "normal" function of the radiator cap to compress the spring (once excess pressure) and then break the "seal" allowing water out the overflow tube then after pressure drops "push" back down and reseal? The way it seems to be operating is once water starts coming out the overflow it doesn't stop until it either overheats or I shut the rig down. Thanks for all the help Russ
I'll take your suggestion melben and see what comes out. I did order a new radiator cap just in case Thanks Again
Yes, if there's no space for expansion then it will leak past the cap, unless the hoses have enough give or it leaks. No coolant leaving since is a good sign. HOWEVER, you didn't mention overheating in the first post, that's not a good sign. It should let out only as much coolant as it's overfilled, not cause overheating. The new cap will keep the system pressurized to raise the boiling point, and might fix your problem. Or it might be something more serious. Keep a close eye on the temperature until you get this sorted out. If it blows off coolant with the coolant starting at the proper level, then let it idle until the temp goes down enough to check the level again before continuing.
Will do and Thanks Delmer.