I have to replace the hyd pump on my 580K. Any instruction would be most helpful. I have to do this myself for financial reasons, so, any tips would be greatly appreciated.
If the hydraulic oil looks decent and does not smell like something burnt take care to keep it clean when you remove it. Pour it through a paint strainer before you put it back in the tank. Change your hydraulic filter after the new pump is replaced. Inspect the pump to engine coupling carefully for excessive wear and replace it if it needs one. It may be a good time to change the fan belts if they are looking worn.
Thanks for the good advise. Other than the hyd lines, do you know the parts that need to removed prior to taking out the pump?
my shaft seal is leaking on my pump it looks like you can pull it out with the radiator on as in the manual a bumper plate and a bottom rad cover plate comes off and the pump is right there . but i'll pull my rad/ oil cooler off to get at it easier . pump over 50lbs i gonna put on a electric fan kit $100 change belt . i heard some people put on a second belt and wire tie it it so if n when the first goes the second is on so you don't have to pull the coupleing off also my motor mount is bad . my oil is a bit brown but no smells . while its all out a good power wash can't hurt . my a/c crapped out so i'll pull the evap/ comp/ hoses n chuck em . money pit looks like total 16 bolts to do
Thanks, your info helps. The front of your machine looks different then mine. Right up front there is a weight that needs to come off then I'm wondering if it will look like your pictures. Is it necessary to remove the engine cover? This is all new to me. I'm just a back yard mechanic so I'm trying to get as much info as I can before I start. All input is appreciated!
the more you take off the easier it is... I just took the one off my 580 super k to get at the gears up front on the engine. I took the engine cover off . biggest PITA was getting all the hyd oil out, it was a very messy ordeal. took the radiator and the hyd cooler out and the pump is as exposed as you'll get it. there is also a suction screen on the frame that you should take out and clean or replace.
More good advise. Thanks! What have you found to be the best way to drain the hyd fluid, keeping in mind that I want to save it. Also, after the new pump is in does it need to be primed or will it self prime?
If you raise the hoist to get better access to your pump, block the hoist up to prevent injury or death.
engine cover removal 2 bolts on each side front remove with cover in closed position after . disconnect the wire cables on rad post and the manual don't state this but undo the spring assst support rods i didn't and broke one $50 oops i put a few milk crates in front and i gently tipped the hood over onto by myself or get abuddy heavy slide forward n out put it on a a pair 2x4's plug up the all open holes on hoses for safe measure / w/ rags or wine corks you get dirt in there oops if i'm right in a car oil goes thru filter then into engine . don't it look like its backward on this setup ?? frame tank /strainer /then pump ? filter in front of stering col ..on returns? my manual is ok but i come across little things that they miss on removals
Thanks everyone for your helpful info. I'm feeling more confident in starting this project. Just found out I have a torn Rotator Cuff so it's going to slow me down a bit. Surgery in January so I can get the important things taken care of first.
bobbyblades, As high pressure filters that would be required to filter pump output are expensive they are rarely used on mobile hydraulic systems. It is assumed I think that any wear or contaminant ingress occurs downstream of the pump and will be caught in the return to the tank, leaving only clean oil for the pump to suck in. Engine oil systems being low pressure it is easy to filter the oil after it comes through the pump, all the return oil falls like rain by gravity back to the sump, where the pump pickup strainer happily keeps the elephants from passing through the lube pump.
radiator came out best whole unit w/ hyd coolers n a/c condenser motor mounts gone ?
Since you're that far in ... Replace the fan belt too. Darn shame if you have to replace the belt later on. You'll kick yourself for the price of a belt.
yup on the belt...... love to meet the engineer that designed that setup, there has to be a better way.
I just got the pump out today. Will take your advice and change the belt. I don't want to do this again, especially for a belt. The parts guy at Case suggested an aftermarket pump. I found one at IHM parts in KY for $718.00 + freight. I also ordered a new coupler. Looking forward to my parts arrival. It's going to be a lot easier going back together. Thanks again for all the advice on this thread!
+++ on the coupler... The other option is to put the new belt around the crank pulley but tie it out of the way. When needed, cut the old belt off and bring the new belt up & around the driven pulleys.
pump got some wear in it rust too . got a be better way to drain oil lost a gallon or two with the bucket shuffle man it drains quick gotta get more kitty litter ihm parts ?? will try them too i found ebay $800 $22 ship/ found what was left motor mounts in the 1/2 pail dirt n gunk that collected under the pump damn if u could pull those bushings out get more time on that pump should i use that oil again ?? does anybody take back pump cores for $
Why not? Bushings is bushings, see if you can find some through your local bearing house or hydraulic repair outfit that match the shafts, you can always have them cut to length or the OD machined down if need be, as long as the bearing surface on the inside diameter matches the shafts and they're steel backed. Pulling them and pushing new ones in is a piece of cake. there's a small handful of seals and one bearing in there. Assuming the rest of the pump looks good, the housing and the gears. I've had good luck finding a tap that will just grab going in, thread it until it stops, put a nut and a piece of pipe over it and turn the nut. I have just run the tap on through in some cases, but if the casting is thin you might push the back of the housing out instead of the bushing moving. About the oil... er... how do I put this? NO! Unless that's some special elixir, hydraulic oil should be the color of golden honey at the darkest. Clean oil please and fresh filters.
Definite no on reusing the old oil, especially with a new pump. You should consider doing a complete system flush when you get it running.
yup on draining the hyd oil...... I got a bath and lost probably about the same amount.......
pump just came in im curious on how one puts a second belt in or tie down so it doesnt get into the moving parts
Zip ties are your friend.... Your machine is much closer coupled than mine. But still looks do-able. The idea is you have the full length of the belt to be snaked around a single point. The pump coupling... All the other pulleys can be accessed without removing them. (the fan pulley is mounted between one blade and rotated.)
I got my pump in today and will install a new hyd filter and load in the new fluid tomorrow. Does the new pump need to be primed or is the system self priming?
mine has a few ounces in it but i will try add some more give it a crank before i mount it for good measure open the pressure side split clamp to get a little air out after its installed and filled tank with oil. then do a couple cranks while holding loader down and look for movement maybe run motor just a few seconds till im sure we got flow still waiting on motor mounts and electric fan
getting there ok we got ace brand yellow. rustoleum yellow seems each store only stocks one can so don't complain but i'm color blind anyway ....... i gave it a crank , got hyd pressure up in a few seconds . cycled a few circuits , ooohhhh lots o power and speed/ just noticed in the hyd level window has light foam in the oil.??? it should go away after we run it normal use?? new oil n filter as prescribed doctor . smooth running especially with the new motor mount yipppeeee.. hand brake and a front axle seal next and see if get lights working too i got wiper power/domepower /heater blower power/ but no outside lights /drl/blinkers/hazards ??? fuse block got power going out . found the main relays too . wasnt in the engine comp three inches left of fuse block . got to pull up the plastic console pia!!
I would say if it was mine I would put oil in the pump and in every hose, tube, hole, as much as possible. I'll be getting my 3rd on Dec 2nd.
did bench test /pull alotta air
A large volume of air is a necessity for any radiator. But I would never paint the radiator core. It will restrict the heat transfer. Just a word of warning if you happen to have a high engine temperature.
the black paint on it was almost all gone but i didnt go crazy with the spray if i tilt it you case see bare metal on fins . my car rad is painted ? just maybe slow down corrosion i see how it goes , the ac unit is gone so we better off the replace shroud 3x price of fan kit . it should be good for my needs .
up and runing got it set and it holds at 170 deg at the fillcap / i think the thermostat is not there or stuck i got warm top hose in the first few minutes and wired so it runs after shutdown for about 6-8 minutes till cooled down a bit sweet,,,, this fan rated at 1200 ish so i say if you do a fan go for 1600cfm at least min // i had so much trouble trying t install rad with the support allready on machine ( access to 8 mount bolts in front just a pain ) pull the whole unit off with oil cooler n support frame i think easier than you can play with it on a workbench
rdb50r, hows the new pump coming?
i went out and ran it hard pulling some stumps got temps up to 190 ish / get the paint stripper out // should have got a stronger pull fan .but its just a yard machine :drinkup
190° is a very acceptable temperature. As long as you have a good radiator cap and it holds the proper pressure you are in good shape.
When I was tightening one of the lines to the cooler I cracked a previous braze job so hyd fluid leaking. It's out being rebrazed. Otherwise I had full hydraulics as soon as I started it. Once I get the leak fixed I'll be in good shape. Thanks again to all that helped me through this project. It was easier than I thought given the good direction from you all.
I thought maybe you got hijacked Glad you got it going.