Hi all, After help from HEF and alrman, today I tackled the annoying front propeller shaft // torque converter output leak. This was about the last on my hit list of about twenty annoying leaks on this machine and it looked to be a couple of days, but no CASE are easy to service and this was all over in a light day. The leak saw oil spray out of the universal, run down the housing and drip on to the front propeller shaft, which spread over the torque converter and sump, making about one drip about every five minutes or so - very annoying. The manual describes the seals involved here and I had already changed the main oil seal without benefit, so something was pushing high pressure oil through this seal still. :Banghead After buying in another main seal I decided to fit the inner seal // part 9 in the schematic. After removing the propeller shafts and universal spline coupling I hooked out the seal I installed recently and spent about an hour coaxing the bearing circlip out. Once I had that circlip out, the shaft came straight out fairly easily without any further dismantling! The seal ring behind the bearing was pretty loose so I hope it was the culprit of this leak. I made a main seal driver, hence the images making the alloy tool. Cleaned all the parts, soaked the seal ring in transmission oil for twenty minutes and slid it onto the output shaft, back in went the shaft then a new oil seal, o-ring and tighten up // put tools away. Here's hoping it seals now and we can get some work done.
Hi all, A result, have spent about a third of a day running about and fixing a few problems with the 580SK, after that no oil! Did find that the line below [the output shaft] to the transmission cooler has a union leak, couldn't find that with the stream of oil from above. Getting there, enamel CASE Power Tan paint and hardener has arrived so will start to look even better when I get to wear some of that paint back off! With the warmer weather hitting here, today I tackled the cooling and getting an aircon technician 60km away isn't easy, but with the heat that is caught in the cab, its probably going to be necessary.
Another tip for you Nev, If it already hasn't been done - make sure you paint the roof of the cab with some white paint - it make a huge difference to a/c operation
Those turning things are real handy. Looks like a South Bend maybe a 14"?
Thanks alrman, now I know why the roof has fairly new silver frost right over it, aha! Thanks!
Hi Iron@Dirt, Its a 26" Premo, probably modelled on a lot of others' around the World. Originally made in Sydney [at Redfern by Brackenbury and Austen] long since gone. DOM is about 1957 [same as me!!] belt drive over back gear, precision Timken bearings in the head, 1" through the spindle, with 10" swing in the gap, 26" between centres, No2 in the tail and No4 in the head. Have done a lot of work with it over 26 years now [wow is it that long], amazing what it can do with a bit of creation. Cheers!
Hi all, Have had a chance to finish a run of work on the Station (Ranch) here and return to the workshop to look for any weaknesses. Unfortunately the torque converter was still leaking a steady flow of oil onto the front yoke, which spread a fine spray around inside - messy if left. To tackle this job I decided to do a transmission filter and oil change. In that was a horrid suction line leak into the charging pump from the transmission, I had tried to fix this but when I looked again it was weeping oil so must be sucking air and dirt. Without oil it was easy to pull this suction line and the screen in the transmission. I was impressed how easy the screen is to remove and their was no debris or anything in it at all. The thing I did notice was how thick the oil was, it was a dull red/brown coloured product (HY-Trans - TCH?) for the climate of Northern Australia - Brisbane. Around here we have a lot of Winter days to 10°C and Mobil have a recommended product MobilFluid 424 which is thinner in viscosity. I wasn't impressed with these coupling hoses when they were removed, it is a bit alarming how much air was going in to the left one! Using an equivalent Pirtek product and some super clamps, now the whole area is clean and dry for the first time. After pulling these hoses, with a new filter and oil the machine was like a different beast altogether, gone were the sputtering noises when cold as air charged through the system plus the burps // other random noises - all gone. The big change is the power, it wouldn't move much in 2nd gear when cold, now totally different am really impressed with the benefit of the sealing and thinner oil, am a gear lower on some hills and the stall tests are spot on. After running for a couple of hours, the main oil leak I went after was still there in the front propeller shaft. I removed it again, then the front yoke. I noticed an irregular groove in the seal surface so I checked it for truth, but it was ok. The last thing I did was to fit a 1½" SKF Speedi Sleeve and refit - all gone that oil leak! Hydraulic oil change and a new filter, some spray painting, new cutting edges and we are ready to go!
The paint I have seen for sale is Alkyd Enamel and I don't think it has hardener, low tech, old school enamel. A gallon is about $54US. What paint did you buy that has hardener?
Hi yes it is a spraying enamel (non alkyd) and the pint of hardener is separate. The ratio is about ¼ pint of hardener to ¼ gallon of paint, but I have found less works quite ok too.
If it's like the hardener I've used, it's actually a "toughener". It's stuff you can mix in the paint to make it scratch resistant. If you let a little leftover hardened paint dry in a cup, it'll come out like rubber.
hi i'm new to this site so hello to eveyone. i bought a case 580k which has 9000 hrs on it. i started doing some much needed maintenance. changed trans/hydraulic cooler in front,replaced all seals on 4 hydraulic cylinders. i took out bottom drain plug on torque converter housing and quite a bit of oil came out. i don't think there is supposed to be oil in the housing. do anyone know what might be leaking. this is a phase 3 case with the shuttle being associated with the transaxle. any help would be appreciated thanks in advance
Their was no drain plug in the TQ, only remnants of the old plug in the housing, which was plastic and had taken a knock from something in the machine's past so the hex was broken away, but the thread came clear easily, leaving a damaged female in the housing. I have 1" NPT tap so cleaned the thread next, then drilled a 1/16" hole in a 1" brass NPT plug and fitted it. Hours of work later and their is no oil in the plug or inside anywhere so I suspect yours might be a leaking engine rear main. Good on sealing those cylinders, it is quite an 'oily task' but well worth the results to keep the oil in and the dirt out! My machine has fifteen cylinders and I have fully serviced twelve of them. Like yours they leaked and although there is less hours, time and rough operating conditions had them leaking badly all over the place. The worst part I found was the rod wipers were faded away due to work, time and dirt, this meant when I cleaned the glands, many had dirt tight into the gland packing, not good! Did you find the glands came away freely? I had no problem with a couple of gland spanners I have and for the boom cylinder, a special larger temporary one was made out of crude parts around the workshop. One problem I do remember was keeping the split gland packing in the piston during fitting. What I mean is the ones with an in-line split in the grey packing, it tended to walk out of the groove when it was being installed and get damaged. What I did was to cut a tin can down that was a reasonable fit over the piston. Then I just squeezed it closed over the piston (full length) and held it closed with a cable tie. When reassembling the gland packing compressor I made just slid back up the piston rod where I could cut the cable ties and slip it off. Four cylinders gave me trouble, but the compressor I made had them assembled in a minute or two it was so easy. Good luck and we need some images of your machine too! :cool2
Hi au.case i did have a bit of trouble getting pistons with the split packing back into cylinder. But next time i will try your idea.i made up 2 spanners which really worked good on the glands. But as for the leak coming out of drain plug in tc housing, i'm not sure. I will have to save the oil and try to confim if motor oil or not. Thanks