Will someone whos done it on this particular backhoe tell me how they accessed the torque convertor drive plate to flywheel bolts. Even the shop manual seems to suggest you attach the convertor to the flywheel then install the shuttle to the engine. Just want to hear from someone who knows for sure. It seems there might be some differences in the configuration of mid 1970s 680e hoes. Starter hole isn't it and no access elsewhere. If i posted this wrong Im sorry and wont happen again
Remove the sheet metal plate that is on the bottom--front of the flywheel housing. The machine serial number would help. It is on the RH side of the steering column. The only differences that I know of in the 680E's are the machine serial numbers. The parts manual will show you most everything you want to know.
Ok I thought I included that info 1978 case 680e Sn#9127843 had no experience with this particular model till now but I've beena heavy equipment tech since 1993. I've experiences a lot and this wouldn't be tbe only a/t I e seen where you hang the t/c on the f/w and then raise the Trans up to meet it. But I just wanted to hear frome someone else with this setup in particular because I am sure you ain't doing jack threw the bottom access or starter. Maybe there's a he I ain't seen Or...
I have never mounted the transmission on the shuttle until after the shuttle is installed onto the bell-housing. Most important - is that the flex-plate is centered before tightening their bolts. (Maybe there's a he I ain't seen Or..) ----> Could you explain that please ?
For clarification ---> do as the manual sez, Remove the shuttle, the torque convertor and flex plate stay on the flywheel. A new flex plate is mandatory. IMHO Cut the heads off of some long bolts and use them to guide the shuttle back onto the bell-housing. It will help minimize the chances of the torque convertor damaging the oil seal in the shuttle.
Sorry, breaks are only 10 minutes. Didn't want to put off responding back but with how long it takes me to do that .I might ought to have. Would have gotten it said rite and clearer. Already got the new drive plate. Cooler flushed super well and figured I'd flush out the shuttle best I can. I already done it twice without seal damage. I thought for sure it was the seal even tho I saw no damage the first time. When it was still puking the second time I had to l00k for ever. Super small Crack on the pilot. Had to pressurize the converter to even find it. I just figured I'd ask if there was another way. There's several places on the different sites the AI search results was using to form an argument about how it should be installed and they were the same model. Anyway, I'm not so sure how I ended up having my conversation with AI cause I didn't intend to, but it's really frustrating to try to explain to a non being that thinks it's mechanic, how something's done or why is it impossible?
Are you referring to the cooler in the radiator ? Did you clean the filter screen in the shuttle ??
AI answers are not trustworthy for an answer to anything important.
I did clean the screen, and no that is correct. Didn't go into it thinking it had a cure. Thought it may offer a list of places where I could find information faster then doing so by other means. I'd have to say it did that . I had forgotten I joined this site some time back.
Cracked pilot ? That is quite unusual. Crankshaft bore in good condition ? I'm betting that the flex-plate that wasn't installed properly and caused the crack. Perhaps others have an opinion as to what could have caused the crack.