Wondering if anybody out there has removed the rear drums/hubs from a 740 Champion grader? The drum has one large nut in center of a spindle which has a keyway. I managed to get the nut off, then built a puller with 1" fine thread threaded rod. I also warmed around drum with torch but did not succeed. The unit is returning to me in the short future for another go. Just wondering if anybody out there had any advice. Thanks.
Large hammer on the puller screw. Use appropriate protection. Also a rosebud tip on an oxyacetylene torch may be required
Sounds like it is gunna be a hot slug fest. thanks for the reply DB2.
I'd skip the heat, seems like the axel/spindle retains heat longer than the drum (different materials) and keeps a tight fit inside the drum. There's 2 ways to do this that I am aware of without getting the special tool, one guy had taken an old spindle nut and welded about a 6" chunk of similar spindle material to the end of it, (something hard, solid, and heavy). I think he spun it on until the nut bottomed out against the piece he had flush welded to the nut, then wacked it had with a 20lb sledge, and that separated it. I ordered some 18" bolts from Fastenal to fit the threaded holes in the drum, then made a plate that they slid through that allowed enough room for a 20 ton jack between the spindle and the end of the plate, I think I used some thick wall 2" tubing to make that plate rigid, crank the jack up and then give it a whack and it separates pretty easy. A note on reinstalling, I'd have to look up the torque value but when you reinstall the hub I think it needs to get cranked to 2500lbs or something like that I'll see if I can find some pics of how I did it. The welding a good chunk of iron to an old spindle nut method would probably be your easiest though
Hey silveroddo I like your 20 ton jack idea, I made a socket for the large nut and used a torque multiplier to remove that 2500 ft/lb nut. I then made a puller with 2 pcs of 1" coarse threaded rod for the holes in drum and then a 1" fine thread grade 8 in center of a steel crosser. I put as much pressure on it as I could then hammered on center bolt with sledge but it just started to crush the grade 8 threaded rod. with your jack idea I think it is possible to get more pressure on spindle. as for the heating of drum I would do it if I had 2 large rose buds and all things in place to pull, but I do not have access to those right now. thanks for the info.
I don't know, but I would think that would be a tapered fit? Might want to leave the nut on and just leave a 1/4" of slack or so, if you put serious tonnage up against the spindle end and whack it with a hammer, the whole works may jump off and do you a serious injury. Used to pull Dodge light truck hubs off of old 50's era cars and pickups, watched a guy pull one with the correct puller, heat and one good blow with the sledge... hub and puller ended up about four feet away from where it started in a heartbeat. After that we left the nut on, lol.
The way Galion said to remove their hubs was 1st remove the nut, 2nd weld a heavy plate of steel ,3/4 or so,on top of the nut, 3rd twist the nut on the spindle until the plate hits the end and get it snug, 4th jack up the opposite side, 5th hit the plate with a heavy sledge as hard as you can and it will pop off the taper. Oh and don't take the tire off the hub you are taking off, leave it on the ground until the hub is loose. I know it sounds all wrong, but it works, if you think about it, really it does make sense.
What size was that axle nut?
The last one I did I used a 30 ton potra power