I have a 99 773 f and I am having trouble with the hydraulics engaging as the unit is trying to start and when this happens the extra load on the engine keeps it from starting. I have to do an extreme amount of adjusting of the steering arms while I am cranking the engine to allow me to find a "neutral" point for the engine to crank over hard enough to get it running. Even then, if it has not reached a tru neutral or something like that, the hydraulics can start to engage and the engine kills. Once it's running the unit will not kill but I have a major creep. I have adjusted the steering arms... and no real change...? I am not convinced this adjustment is the problem at all but I am open to all thoughts on this one because it is a real pain right now. Is there any online service manual information to help me do a better job adjusting or diagnosing the problem Any Ideas :beatsme... I need to work on this myself... Thanks, Rodeo
the two black linkages that run from the bell cranks to the hydrostate are for your tracking left to right to keep the machine running straight when you fully stroke the sticks where they connect to the aluminum pintle arms make sure the arms are not loose on the pintle shaft the pintle shaft is the steel piece inside the aluminum arm you will see it when you have the machine off and pop the cab up move the steering levers up front and look for the arms to rotate on the steel shaft if they are you need to pull the arms off and look at the shaft by pulling the 3/8 bolt that has the spring on it off and then pull the black neutral plate off then pull the 3/8 bolt out of the side of the aluiminum pintle arm and use a pry bar to remove the arm off the shaft look where the bolt goes through and see if it has wollerd out the grove in the shaft where the bolt goes also check the shaft for being square if its not square it will do no good to replace the arm as the new one will wear out like the old one in less than 20 hrs of use the best way to fix it is pull the pump and replace the pintle shaft in it dealer costs about 1800 to 2000 grand to fix it in northern missouri its pretty easy to fix if you need more details ill look for the post in the future and try to help you out
Thanks for the possible answer (s). I will be working on it this saturday so I will update this thread. More thoughts on this the better. so keeep em comin I definitely have to work on it myself if your price range is at all accurate for our market here in MN
BobCat Mechanic, Thanks for the advise. When I opened it up this time I understood more about what I was looking at. The aluminum pintle arm for the left side was loose on the shaft, So I had to pull the neutral plate and I removed the arm to investigate the shaft condition. The shaft was fine so I reinstalled the arm and made sure the linkage arm was snug to the bushing but not over tight before I tightened the Jamb nut, I did this on the other side as well and checked the arm to shaft pinch bolt tightness as well. I then had to put the neutral plate back on. The one thing that I left out was that I had tried to remove the neutral plate by loosening the pintle arm adjusting stop bolts... not realizing at first that they did not hold the plate down. Needless to say I had to go thru adjusting the stop blocks. I raised the machine and put all for corner axles up on jack stands to get the tires off the ground. I was able to hold the steering linkage (disconnected from the Steering arms at the mid joint) in its neutral position so that the wheels stood still. We tightened both sides while in this neutral position while pushing the stop blocks up against the pintle arm "stop knobs". We got all but a slight backwards creep out... but thats as good as I could seem to get it. There must be a trick to get the block adjusted correctly. So if it's something you could explain... It would be appreciated. But I am totally at ease with driving it the way it is. I did the best I could with little experience, and I think the parts were all fine except I replaced the Pintle arm to steering linkage bolt with a Grade 5 that had a long enough unthreaded shank to fit the bushing. So a total of 80 Cents is a good investment in safety and dependability.. imho In all of this I believe the loose arm was mostly the source of my problems. And the added vibration probably caused more of the additional looseness I saw as I went thru it. I will probably pick up the front linkage bushing and shock dampeners to try to keep the steering tight and not loose feeling. Again... thanks for the advice and the "good word picture" of where I needed to head... in starting to look at this problem. It's a good day when you put something back together with the accomplishment of trouble shooting and repair / replacement behind you and then IT WORKS !!! I hope this thread helps others out along the way too. Any help on adjusting the stop blocks would be fine or we can talk again over a cup of coffee about hunting or fishing. Merry Christmas Rodeo
did you replace the arm or just reinstall it because if you didn't replace it with new it will just work loose again and you will be in the same boat again also where the neutral plate goes on the 2 studs with the rubber bushings inside the neutral plate make sure those 2 studs are tight if they are not then you will fight the steering trying to get it neutraled sp but replace that arm and bushing if you have not yet the bushings in those how you replace them is get a 3/8 carriage head bolt "the flat head bolt with the little square shank right below the head" you either need one that is threaded all the way down or you need to run a die down it to thread it the rest of the way you need about a 3 or 4 in bolt i belive maybe a little longer but get a socket that is the same size as the bushing maybe a little smaller and a larger socket that goes over the out side of the bushing so you don;t crush it and a large washer what i usually use is a 14 or 15 mm cornwell impact socket to push them out and a 1 1/4 1/2 drive socket on the other side so i don't crush the bushing then just tighten the nut down until the bushing is installed same for installing i usually use a 17mm socket and the 1 1/4 socket there you can press the new bushings in the bell cranks without removing them from the machine if you where wondering the pintle arms you have to remove the arms to put those in. as for the fine adj on the neutral after you replace the pintle arm on the left side get it close will holding the sticks like you said you did before and way to go on the safety aspectof it on getting it up on jack stands some people wouldn't have taken the time or thought of the machine running them over when they started it with everything loose but anyways then take and tighten the bolts on the neutral blocks just tight enough to keep them from moving bu the weight of the linkages then take a small ball pein hammer and smack the bolts right or left according to which way they need to go then when you tighten the bolts try to keep the wrench at a 90 to the neutral blocks to keep from pulling them out of adj as you tighten the bolts thats the jist of it let me know if you need any more advice or help with it
Actuator on 773 I have an older (8-10 years) 773 with advnaced hand controls. After running the unit for 5-6 hours (moving snow and back draggin most of that time) the error lights on the tilt/lift handle will flash 5 times and I am dead in the water. If I let it sit for 20-30 minutes I may get 15 minutes of work out of it. I took the unit to my local dealer and the diags. they ran said both actuators are bad. Any advice or assitance would be greatly appracited.
Hi guys, New member here, just tryiong to get my posts up so i can start a new thread on a Bobcat 553 Advantage series i work with. It doesnt quite track straight in forwards or reverse, it pulls the the left in reverse and to the right when moving forwards. Also i cant find the fusebox Thanks guys Dush
I think i have the same problem with my 763...sounds like an easy fix Thanks for the great info !