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85 JCB 1400B tranny oil cooler question

Dan518 · 2017-11-30 21:21

Hello. I recently fixed a problem with my machine not moving forward. I noticed that my transmission fluid is getting very hot. At least to the touch. I have a radiator type cooler on mine that sits in front of the engine radiator. I removed the cooler and hosed the fins as well as the engine radiator fins so they are both clean and getting plenty of air through them when it's running. I noticed that the bottom of the cooler is hot to the touch and the top of it is cool. I assume it's clogged pretty bad so I haven't been running it. I priced a new cooler and, to my surprise, those suckers are not cheap. 1500 dollars new. I'm thinking about having it professionally flushed if there is such a thing anymore. I found a bunch of coolers online that all seem to be the round cylinder type. MUCH cheaper I might add. Question is, would the round type work on my machine that is designed to have the radiator type? I'm just not sure how the round one would cool the fluid being open on both ends but not able to get direct cooling from the fan through the passages. I don't want to shell out the money for the round type only to fry my tranny due to a different type of cooler. Thanks for any help!!

Replies5
  1. #1Delmer2017-11-30 23:13

    An internally clogged cooler would cause your high temp difference, but so would a low flow from any other cause, like a leaky transmission. Did you find gunk in your trans? You could backflush the cooler with air, diesel, water, or a combination of water and air. Or test it for flow if you have a spec. Usually oil coolers get replaced because they leak, not get clogged.

  2. #2Dan5182017-12-01 11:40

    Hi Delmer! I'll tell you a little more about the situation. Before I replaced the clutch packs in the shuttle(which were completely gone)and torque converter I pulled the cooler out. When I disconnected the hoses on it, a ton of black gunk came out of it. Almost the consistency of paste. I'm assuming that crap was the clutch disks that were turned to dust. I then flushed it with water, For a while. After replacing everything, noticing it was getting hot, I shut it down and pulled the cooler again. The 10w hydro looked good except that it had a lot of water in it. I'm guessing that when I flushed it, a lot of water got hung up somewhere in the cooler and once put back in, the pump kinda forced it out of it. I'm going to drop the shuttle oil pan and check the sump filter but that cooler has me thinking I should replace it or have it acid flushed or something. This is getting old with me. I've been messing with this thing for months now and almost ready to get rid of it. I wanted to try before I did that to have it flushed or replace with that round type. Just not sure the round type would work. Btw, this machine sat for about 3 years before I bought it.

  3. #3joe--h2017-12-01 12:32

    Stupid ? time. Hot fluid enters bottom of cooler and comes out the top cool? Isn't that what it's supposed to do? Joe H

  4. #4Delmer2017-12-01 13:34

    The top shouldn't be cool if the system is too hot, it should still be hot, just not as hot as the hotter side. The low flow causes TOO much temp drop. Rather, the high temp drop is a clue to the clogging. Since you already used water, I'd try it again with air pressure. Open both ends, stuff a rag with an air hose in the bottom, put a running garden hose in the top, hook up the air briefly, let it fill back up, hit it with air again, repeat. If that's not enough, use higher pressure, and a tank setup like a "cheetah". If you know the pressure rating, or can guess, you could hook up the air directly with fittings. I use the rag for radiators that aren't rated for as high a pressure as oil coolers.

  5. #5Dan5182017-12-01 14:13

    thαnkѕ dєlmєr! í wíll dσ juѕt thαt. dσíng thє wαч чσu ѕαíd, αnч crαp lєft ín thєrє wσuld hαvє tσ cσmє σut. thαnkѕ αgαín! í'll kєєp чσu ínfσrmєd σf thє rєѕult