Hello, Just achieved junior status! I have this burning desire to aquire a little knowledge from some of you great people. My question is; the machine is a 1989 580k series 1 4x4 extendahoe serial# JJG0014739. My problem concerns the loader control lever. When I exert pressure to the left, its hard going.I need to apply some force to crowd (curl) the bucket thru the complete cycle. Also notice when I have bucket up high it will tend to drift the bucket to dump position on its own. Also I checked to see if proximity switch had current,none. Trying to do continuity on those three wires going to proximity switch. Im not sure if they go right back up to magnetic switch or not. Can't really follow schematic, color codes not accurate. My thought is that I might have an issue at the loader control valve along with the return to dig? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Paul
Welcome rkride! First thing to check is the pivot points for the anti-rollback linkages. In particular Item 5 below. It should pivot freely, the bushing, item 9 is a plastic /nylon material & the shaft, item 10, can get tight there especially if machine has sat around for a while.
I would start with the control rod along rt hand loader frame, to the bellcrank, look to see if it is bent and binding, then the part that goes threw the frame to your control linkage, and your loader linkages, I have had to replace alot of bolts/ pins and bushings because of linkage binding issues with high hour machines, may unhook control rod and see if the issue gets better, the machine will work in the manual mode with out the rtd for the bucket, just won't lock in to bring the bucket back, also check end caps on the loader valve spool detent and the bucket mag , they can be loose an causing some travel issues with the spool movement. having no power to the rtd makes me want to start with the linkages first then the elect. I like to take the machine schematic and have them blown up a print shop 400 to 500 % makes them alot better to read and trace, about $5.00 per page.Will try to go to the shop later and give you more info on the rtd, been a while since i traced one out.
Hello alrman, Back in shop now will inspect and wrench on the anti roll back. The machine has 5953 hrs. Will report my progress to you. Thank you very much. Paul
Hello Sheepfoot, yes, I will stand at machine and grasp control rod with both hands and manually push rod rearward towards cab. I have to exert considerable force to rotate bell crank. Will start with rod removal first to see if that gives me some improvement . Looks like I need to make some room to get to linkages and loader valve? What would you recommend I remove to make room to work? When you mention bucket mag is that bucket magnetic detent valve? The machine has 5953 hrs on the clock. Thnk You very much! Paul
Paul, raise the loader install safety bar, remove the plate and skirt along with the air cleaner, there is 4/6 bolts that hold it in place, unhook air intake hose and you can grab at the hood latch and pull it strait up and set it on the ground, this should give you some starting room to do some checks, keep area clear around intake (sometimes turn the intake hose in the other direction seems there is alot of crud in that area also) be carefull to blow area clean if you plan to start it (also rags) can be bad if you suck one in the intake!. Most of all be carefull even with the safety bar in place for the loader while working on the linkages.
PS, that is the set up on the lower end of the bucket spool, the loader valve has the float detent on it, does your machine have a 4x1 bucket also ? that increases the amount of linkages in that area to.
Sheepfoot, The 580k is not equipped with 4 in 1 bucket. My plans are to just disasemble, clean and replace parts if required just on the anti rollback assembly. of course Im not opened up completely to see the loader valves,so will just deal with rollback and reasemble, see where that gets me. Im on layoff and trying to get a few of these bug ironed out with the 580k so I can continue a modular home project for my parents Thank you much Paul
Sheepfoot, Did some more probing. When I push bell crank forward it takes tension off lever, works fine My question is, can I take anti rollback apart without taking loader valves out? Thanks much Paul
yes it can be done threw the top for the most part, slide the boot up on the control levers also helps, and remove the flip up cover over the fuel and hyd, it's kinda tite but should be alot better with out 4x1 valve and linkage, is your rod #4 and #1 bent, that will realy throw the self leveler out of wack also, it causes the crank to push back farther, is the spring #11 hooked up in alrmans pic.
Hello sheepfoot, Yes the#1[rod] and #4 [tube] was slightly misaligned. A little heat and slight bend did the trick. #11 [Spring ] was attached. Everything seems to be free except the #5 and #10 which is binding considerably. Going to disassemble these items, clean and get this area working freely. Roll pin #8 is froze in #5 Thanks Much Paul
hello sheepfoot, yes #10 rod pitted pretty good as well as scale build up on round stock welded thru frame that #10 rod rides in. My plan was to dress round stock,run drill bit thru knock down scale and run flap sander thru also. Install new bushings #9, pack grease or heavy application of anti sieze to interior of round stock. Would this be the direction you would go in? Also anything on the rtd circuit tracing? Well I do have other electrical issues. My 3 position work and flood switch on front dash does not function. Im also fitted with optional aux. swith on side consol that controls the 2nd set of lights front and rear that functions turnig on one set lites front one set lites rear. Hope you follow my decrepitation of problem? Any suggestions would help. Thanks Much Paul
rkide, sounds like your making good progress, thats what i would due to clean it up, replace needed parts and lube, then to the rtd elect. You will find alot of elect issues on the K machines there are a lot of posts, most machines have bad issues at all junctions where the harness connects harness to harness threw out these machines, main area is behind the rh side where the fuse panel is located, you will find ground issues/fuse/melted fuse sockets/ harness connects croission, and the list goes on, most switches like the lights don't get used, so they just freeze up then strip the knobs out, there is a group of connects under the machine down below your loader valve your working on that i have seen ate slap up and if you even bump it you can spend time spliceing around them, so don,t be suprised. there are several ground areas on the k, engine, battery box/frame/and under the fuse block ( floor). To start with it helps to have a good test lite 12 volt and even a multi meter with a tone function to trace things out but start at the fues panel and check the current at each fuse both sides, also the the proximity switch has a lite in it, there is several relays/magnetic switches also, does your machine have a small fuse block between the starter and alt ?
Ok here goes rtd, middle set of fuses(2nd down) 15amp,current both sides. check raise loader,dump bucket,loader lever to bucket return Y/N.If no lower to ground and shut off machine, unplug the connect to the proxi-switch, (use volt meter) harness from machine ,outer female reading 12 volt threw volt meter to machine ground, if no current there is a open circut between check point and fuse, if you have current use jumper wire between inner female and the male connect, check by key on does the rtd vavle lock in if you move the lever to rtd and release (may need to raise loader and dump bucket first) if this test works the proxi-switch is bad, this is the quick checks and there is alot more to test if needed, also under the machine there is two relays, one goes to start the other rtd you can switch the to out and see if it helps. will give you more info if needed to test more of the rtd. Be carefull of moving linkages while testing if engine is running also, stay safe!
Sheepfoot, no fuse block between starter and alt.Did some checking at fuse box, right side consol. The 25 amp standard lights had some burn at the fuse. Like I said earlier that I had no current at the front dash light switch. I cleaned up the fuse area and was able to get current to front light switch. Bypassed light switch and used jumper wire to test for current to front and back lights. Outer 2 rear lights work as per wiring schmatic. inner 2 lights work off of opptional light switch at right side consol as well as front inner 2. My problem is when I use jumper wire to test front outer 2 lights no current to them? Im taking the lights off individualy and check with 12 volt battery to see if the hobb units work with battery. Thats were Im at now. Thanks much Paul
Sheepfoot, Got into the harnesses pretty heavy. Decided to take several out of the machine so I have good access to work on them. Question i have what would be the best connectors to use on rebuilding these harnesses?Where the plugs are Id like to be able to disconnect thos again in the future, if I have to. Thanks Much Paul
paul, we were in the feild just doing a jump around on these connects to get the customer running, the way to fix the connects is contact a Deutseh supplier and order the water tite connects, they are real $ to fix alot of splices, and the cost is the crimp tool is over 150 now i think, you may want to call your local dealer to see what they can provide, cat,deere all have these water tite connects also, but out sourcing to a deutseh supplier may save you enough to buy the tool, check the web under deutseh dt connects.
Paul, wirecare.com has a good site to look at, click their deutseh connects on the right, for referance only. some also have a rental tool program.